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  • Metolius - Alpine PAS - Orange/Blue

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  • Metolius - Alpine PAS - Orange/Blue

Metolius Alpine PAS

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    • Orange/Blue, One Size
      sale $18.71
    4.5511

    11 Reviews

    Details

    A safe, adjustable alternative to slings and quickdraws.

    Metolius made its Alpine PAS (Personal Anchor System) 40% lighter than the original so alpine climbers don't have a reason to leave it behind. Six durable and lightweight Dyneema Monster slings make up the entire daisy chain so you can adjust how far you are from the anchors, and the slings are the slimmest slings out of the Metolius lineup to keep it compact and easy to pack. Unlike most daisy chains, this design eliminates the risk of pocket failure so you can stay safe at each belay stance. Just be sure to use it as a personal tether only because it isn't CE/UIAA certified and probably won't withstand a fall. 

    • 11mm Dyneema Monster sling webbing
    • 12kN strength
    • Use as a personal tether only
    • Carabiners not included
    • Item #MET000T

    Tech Specs

    Material
    Dyneema Monster Sling webbing
    Length
    3 ft 0.5 in
    Width
    11 mm
    Strength
    12 kN
    Claimed Weight
    1.7 oz
    Recommended Use
    rock climbing
    Manufacturer Warranty
    1 year

    Tech Specs

    • Reviews
    • Q & A

    What do you think about this product?

    Have questions about this product?

    Easy adjustability

    • Familiarity: I've used it several times

    I bought this because my sling i was using was rarely at a length i wanted while hanging on belays (even with a few, added knots). This allows a lot more options in terms of how far away I want to be from my anchor point.

    Some info direct from Metolius

    • Familiarity: I've used it several times

    I like its light weight and low profile, but was slightly concerned with it's specs - 12-14kn is pretty low for Dyneema stuff - so I went directly to Metolius with some questions. Here's what I learned:

    Q: What's this thing made out of - really?
    A: 11mm, 60% Dyneema, 40% Nylon (called Monster webbing)

    Q: Cool, but why are they rated to only 14kn if the 11mm Monster Slings ("Open Loop Slings") are rated to 22kn?

    see more in comment below...

    A: The difference in rated strength is due to the design, not the material. An open loop 11mm sling is indeed rated to 22kn (per EN 566/ UIAA 104, the standard for slings). This is because there is no webbing on webbing contact during the tensile strength test. With the Alpine PAS for example, the webbing on webbing contact reduces the strength significantly. The individual loops on the Alpine PAS typically fail around 27kN when tested independently (think of it like a mini 11mm open loop sling). But when tested as a link in the climbing system, or how it's intended use is described, it fails much lower (typically around 19kN).

    continued again... Thanks Metolius! I think the take home message is that the 22-24kn Dyneema slings (think 10mm alpine quickdraw slings) that lots of folks use to tether into anchors are not really much stronger (or maybe even weaker) than something like the Alpine PAS, because they are not rated based on having contact with other webbing (ie your harness).

    If each loop in my tether has a typical break point of 27kn, I'm psyched. And I'd rather tether/rap with something that is designed to be in contact with other webbing and tested as such, even if there is a more-realistic rating of 14kn on the tag.

    last bit... [The folks at Metolius] are currently writing the standard for Static Lanyards. Once the final version has been accepted by the UIAA, there will be a specific standard for personal tethers, or lanyards. This will clear up a lot of confusion for the end user and free the manufacturers from having to pass the sling standard, EN 566/ UIAA 104.

    An Overall Impressive PAS

    • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

    You can't beat this PAS when it comes to price and weight. In general, I wish this device had a few more loops for length, but it still gets the job done. I've used it from BCC to Maple, and I'm sure I'll be taking it on climbing trips for years to come.

    Perfect

    • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

    I love this PAS mainly because it is not bulky and never seems to get in my way. . Its perfect when you and your partner are stuck on a uncomfortable anchor and you need to quickly and safely adjust where your sitting on the wall.



    For me it has been perfect and I have no complaints! Its the Perfect Lightweight PAS!

    Perfect

    Versatile and space saving.

    • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

    I love this PAS for how little room it takes up on my tie-in points. The anal-retentive side of me wants a nylon PAS like the Sterling Chain Reactor for the load absorption benefit over Dyneema, but anchor falls typically aren't big to begin with and you can't argue with the difference in bulk.

    Limited uses, but worth it

    • Familiarity: I gave it as a gift but have feedback to share

    Although some climbers look down on PAS—because they have limited uses—I don’t. I love this PAS because it’s convenient and way easier for me to adjust than slings or some other form of protection.

    Super light, super convenient

    • Familiarity: I've used it several times

    extremely light and compact, I notice it less than other slings I've used in the past.

    Plus the variety of clip-points makes finding the right length fast and easy.

    highly recomended

    Reliable

    • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

    I have used this as my personal anchor device for 2 full years now and I am very satisfied and recommend it to my friends for a nice reliable and affordable daisy.



    It is easy to use and very nice that you can pick which link you attach yourself with for varying locations of chains or anchors.



    I will be buying a brand new one soon for the upcoming season and definitely recommend you do the same!