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  • Mammut - Smart Alpine Belay Device - 8.9mm-10.5mm - Black/Red
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  • Mammut - Smart Alpine Belay Device - 8.9mm-10.5mm - Black/Red

Mammut Smart Alpine Belay Device - 8.9mm-10.5mm

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    • Black/Red
    4.5534

    34 Reviews

    Details

    There's no such thing as too smart when it comes to safety.

    The Mammut Smart Alpine Belay Device doesn't boast unnecessarily about its own intelligence. It doesn't have to because its intuitive design speaks for itself and offers great utility on belay or rappel.
    • An updated design uses the same non-mechanical construction of the original Smart device to pinch the rope during a fall and make for easy catching and holding
    • The extended lever allows for easier catching and releasing when lowering your climber
    • The auto-lock option allows a lead climber to belay one or two seconding climbers directly below the anchor
    • Device accepts a wide range of rope diameters between 8.9mm and 10.5mm
    • Item #MAM0491

    Tech Specs

    Auto Locking
    yes
    Rope Diameter
    8.9 - 10.5 mm
    Recommended Use
    belaying, rappelling
    Manufacturer Warranty
    lifetime

    Tech Specs

    • Reviews
    • Q & A

    What do you think about this product?

    Have questions about this product?

    Great piece, but has a bad spot.

    • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

    This piece has been a serious part of my climbing for several years. It works fantastic,... For the most part. Almost flawlessly, but that is part of the problem. The times that it doesn't has resulted in very sketchy situations with a partner at the top of a climb. The device can still get cross loaded on a locker, and worse yet, the rear end can jam underneath requiring a lot of slack and jagging around to get it free. I guess that in the jammed position, the rope won't budge, so it'll still catch the climber, but the fact that it happens bothers me because the load is being applied where it's not designed to be loaded. This problem may be simply the choice of locking 'beiner I made (Black Diamond Gridlock). The problem may not be able to occur on others. So choose a locker wisely and only use it for belaying with this device.

    Another thing, double rope rappelling is very rough. There's a very fine line between too little release (locked) and too much (going skydiving). This results in a herky jerky descent. I find using a regular tube device more easily controllable.

    Furthermore, keep an eye on the center rib of the device. Granted, mine is used 99% of the time, the force of catching falls and general wear has mushroomed the material enough to create a rough edge. Not necessarily sharp, but something that needs to be filled smooth before using on something major.

    Now, the good. The device works like a Grigri without the weight or the mechanical components of it making it very light for its function. It's very easy to handle and lowering is highly controllable. Autoblocking feature makes it great for multi pitch. It also works great to safely belay/lower on a frozen/water soaked rope when ice climbing. I do intend to keep the device and look into other options for a locker.

    Very functional and perfect price!

    • Familiarity: I've used it several times

    This is an excellent belay device. The device cinches down tight on the rope in the event of a fall and requires very little force on the break hand to hold a climber. (Always keep a hand on the break!)

    I use this for indoor top rope as well as sport climbing outside.

    Indoors, this device is great for when your climbing partner is struggling on a difficult route. With minimal slippage and an easy breaking mechanism, the belayer wont get worn out hold the break side of the rope after a lot of falls. Lowering a climber takes a little getting used to, but after some practice you can achieve a quick, smooth lower.

    In sport climbing, the belayer can easily pull out slack to a lead climber. This device is really handy when cleaning a sport anchor. The device is great for rappelling down. It takes a while to get the hang of rappelling, but its a very safe device that wont let you take a long fall if you lose control of your break hand.

    At the price, you cannot beat this! Does more than a grigri for half the cost! Love it!

    Favorite piece of gear!

    • Familiarity: I've used it several times

    I bought the original SMART belay device and loved it's functionality so much that I upgraded to the alpine belay. This device is great for belaying, and gives a nice piece of mind as it auto locks when prompted. Great for lowering and belaying from a top anchor as well! Great device at a great price!

    Cool Idea

    • Familiarity: I've used it several times

    I used this for a month before giving it to my friend (went back to my trusty Cinch). It was very well made and a cool idea. It worked really well for the most part. I ended up giving it away because it just wasn't for me. Perhaps I'm just too used to my Cinch.

    Awesome device!

    • Familiarity: I've used it several times

    This is probably my new favorite climbing tool. The reason I like it so much comes down to its versatility, namely, being able to use it as a reliable auto-blocking belay, and rappel device. The auto-blocking function works excellently for both uses. Rappelling with the Smart Alpine is a little clunky at first, while figuring out how to feed rope through smoothly, but I'll take a little chop from the device catching me over the opposite any day. As with any device, you always want to keep a hand on the brake end of the rope, but it's nice having the peace of mind that, should anything go wrong, you will likely be fine.

    One note with this device, however, is that you want to be careful to select a good 'biner for it. Any kind of broad radius HMS carabiner should do. Make sure you set it up so the device is on the broad end of the biner (narrow end facing you), with the spine (opposite the gate) on the same side the rope is running through. The reason for this is that, while it is unlikely, with a smaller carabiner, it is possible to catch the corner, preventing the rope from binding enough to properly auto-block.

    My new favorite gift to give to climbers

    • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

    After having now used this device for 5 seasons, i'd have to say i can not imagine climbing without it.

    The autolocking action on rappel is what makes this device ideal - it keeps you safe, when things could go wrong. It allows you a little more wiggle room to mess with the rope and it will prevent a very serious accident, hopefully.

    I've now become so intune with how it belays that there is no sticking or catching when giving slack or taking it in.

    Stop messing around and get with the times!

    Awesome Belay Device!

    • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

    I love the Smart Alpine! I don't think I will go back to another belay device as long as Mammut keeps making these. It has everything you could ever need: assisted-locking for catching a leader fall, double rope capability for rappels, twin ropes, and half ropes (Note: they have two models for different rope diameters), and a guide mode auto-lock for belaying your second climber. All with no moving mechanical parts and weighing at just 4.8 ounces (135g). Initially, it can take a little while to get used to using the device, and I would recommend reading/looking at Mammut's documentation on proper usage so the transition is easier. Here is a video from Mammut on YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yoziFy96L4g .
    Awesome belay device that can handle pretty much anything you could ever throw at it.

    Has it all

      Just the fact that I can rappel with this device and belay makes it pretty dope. My ATC started to get wear and tear but I just started using this device, easy to use and it's great that it has so many purposes.

      Confidence Inspiring Belay Device

      • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

      I have used an ATC and a grigri 2 for many years climbing, and this device easily replaces it. The ability to belay, rappel, and have that auto locking feature is excellent. I like that it uses the familiar belay technique of an ATC, but has the locking feature for the added comfort in the event of a fall. Overall it is an excellent device that has landed a spot as my primary belay device, and I don't foresee that changing.

      Great for the outdoors

      • Familiarity: I've used it several times

      I first tried one of these in the gym, and honestly I did not like it. When my daughter started leading, I decided to get something that autolocks, and I piked up the Mammut Smart single rope, and I love that device. But I can't rap with it, so I need to bring an ATC when I go outside.

      After a previous trip (when the ATC dropped a few 100 feet), I needed another rap device, so this was the pick up. I used it this last weekend, and it is great. If I am doing multipitch, I will probably bring both, since I much prefer to belay with the single (though there is no guide mode), and I want a back up and something I can rap with.

      When rappelling, It feeds nice and smooth, and it does lock off. I wouldn't take my brake hand off, but it will let you use both hands if you need to clean a climb on rappel, or free up the rope from a crack.

      I use it with a BD Gridlick Screwgate, and it works perfectly. Make sure you do get something that has a secondary gate to ensure alignment on your harness.

      Perfect all arounder

      • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

      I have been using one of these for several years now, and will continue to do so. The auto block works great as long as you have the right carabiner. I have a Petzl William, which I highly recommend using with this, an HMS is pretty much necessary. It works swimmingly in guide mode too. The great thing about it, is that you get the features of a GriGri and an ATC guide. It's super lightweight, very durable (I've dropped it more times than I can remember with hardly any nicks, and none where the rope runs through) and no moving parts. The rappel mode did take a while to get used to, but now after a few hundred of them, I have it down. I can glide down the rope with absolutely no problems. I even hung my dog from my harness ( he was in a rated harness too) and I was able to get down the rope smoothly. If you're new, I would still suggest starting out with an ATC, so you really get to understand the necessity of keeping your brake hand engaged at all times, you never know when you'll leave the smart behind. After you wear through an ATC, graduate to this.

      Not good for rappelling. Great at belay

      • Familiarity: I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions

      The simple design of this item is great. It's simple and works very well. I purchased the two-sided model because I intended to rappel. However I wish I would have bought the single sided model for weight savings. It is great for belaying. But when you rappel, the rope ends get twisted and complicate the process. Instead of having your brake hand off to the right, you end up feeding rope from the bottom inward. You also have to lift the lever to get the rope going. When you're focusing on your foot placement, there is too much going on and it's hard to be smooth.

      After using this device for a few years, it has slowly become my favorite device over an ATC Guide. Practice has made the rappel smoother. It's still not as smooth as an ATC, but when you get the hang of lifting the front handle, it works very well. More importantly, when you are practicing leading (ice or sport) and need to clean your route after setting up the top rope, it's flawless. it allows you to safely lock off and clean your screws and draws without as much risk. I've had a few friends comment that it's hard to belay through, but I disagree. I love it. It's an elegant design that has it's quirks, but overall, the auto-locking feature and relatively low weight win the day against an ATC or Gri-gri in my opinion

      Great Jack of All Trades

      • Familiarity: I've used it several times

      Used to carry my grigri and an ATC guide up everything multipitch. Loved the extra security of a grigri, but needed to rap or belay two seconds. Now I can finally do it all with one device. This guy does it all, but does seem to have a few caveats. Firstly, it _REALLY_ needs a carabiner that prevents cross loading (any of the belay biners with the added little springgate inside should work). Seriously, I'm surprised it isnt in bold flashing font in the instructions. On a typical HMS or pear or whatever biner, if it flips to the narrow side of the biner, the autolocking function will cease to function. Works like a normal ATC at this point, but if you are expecting it to lock and it doesn't...whoops. I've been using the Edelrid HMS Strike Slider FG with fantastic results. Also lowering and rapping can be somewhat jerky. This seems to be very weight dependent! I'm 165lbs and its about perfect for me; I can rap in 'autolock' mode without it locking up inadvertently all the time. Takes a bit of getting used to, but its pretty damn slick when you do; no more need to deal with those annoying autoblocks or prussik backups. I feel like heavier folks, or if you are rapping with an additional load, it would engage the autolock frequently and make rapping a royal pain. I've also heard that rapping with two significantly different diameter ropes is a chore not worth repeating. No personal experience in that, but thought it was worth mentioning.



      Also its a bit funky looking, but whatever. Check out the edelrid Mega Jul for a similar device without the funky look. Iv'e heard reports with durability being an issue, but I think they newest version of them sorted that out.

      Has anyone used this device to belay a...

      Has anyone used this device to belay a climber in guide mode? If so, please share your experience...

      When rigged properly this device pulls rope smoother than both the reverso or ATC guide from my experience. I have spent a lot of time burning energy pulling rope on top of a climb belaying seconds up and this device from mammut is by far my favorite. It stands a compromise of all the strengths of a gri gri and reverso put into a simple and efficient medium. Watch here at 1 min 34 sec. in this (rather corny) advertisement to see proper set up for belaying from above: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U382OtrXTH0

      This device is WAY easier to take up slack and is better than the ATC Guide in guide mode with the same size rope... If you set it up correctly that is. You NEED to put the biner that captures the rope outside the metal frame of the belay device.



      See these instructions from mammut for details on how to set it up on page 11.



      http://www.mammut.ch/images/Smart+Alpine+Instructions.pdf

      Don't listen to the first two responses regarding auto block/guide mode. I've used BD ATC guide, Petzl Reverso 3 and Grigri for belaying from above on multi pitch. The alpine smart is way easier than ATC guide and reverso to pull and even a little easier to pull than the Grigri. It is also way easier to lower than the Guide and Reverso. The Grigri's only advantage is lowering, but it is way heavier, more expensive and still requires another devise to rap. I never use my Grigri anymore. Wish I saved the money. I'm now going to get a Alpine smart for half ropes.