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  • Mammut - Smart Alpine Belay Device - 8.9mm-10.5mm - Black/Red
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  • Mammut - Smart Alpine Belay Device - 8.9mm-10.5mm - Black/Red

Mammut Smart Alpine Belay Device - 8.9mm-10.5mm

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    • Black/Red
    4.5539

    39 Reviews

    Details

    There's no such thing as too smart when it comes to safety.

    The Mammut Smart Alpine Belay Device doesn't boast unnecessarily about its own intelligence. It doesn't have to because its intuitive design speaks for itself and offers great utility on belay or rappel.
    • An updated design uses the same non-mechanical construction of the original Smart device to pinch the rope during a fall and make for easy catching and holding
    • The extended lever allows for easier catching and releasing when lowering your climber
    • The auto-lock option allows a lead climber to belay one or two seconding climbers directly below the anchor
    • Device accepts a wide range of rope diameters between 8.9mm and 10.5mm
    • Item #MAM0491

    Tech Specs

    Auto Locking
    yes
    Rope Diameter
    8.9 - 10.5 mm
    Recommended Use
    belaying, rappelling
    Manufacturer Warranty
    lifetime

    Tech Specs

    • Reviews
    • Q & A

    What do you think about this product?

    Have questions about this product?

    What 'biner to use?

    • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

    It's definitely a bit finicky until you find the right carabiner. If you don't have one that locks the orientation either using a piece of plastic (dmm belay master) or a keeper gate, then you run a risk of the screw/autolock gate getting stuck in the system, which can happen pretty easily when lowering your climber.

    Once you find a carabiner that works, it feeds slack way easier and faster than a grigri, it's silky smooth in multipitch autoblock mode, and it provides a 2nd level of safety incase your belay fucks up.

    The DMM belay master has limited use, and the actual radius of the carabiner is a bit thin, so if you use thin ropes there's a bit of slippage when your partner is hangdogging. Don't get the mammut specialized carabiner either it's gate sucks. The best carabiner I've used with this device that works wonderfully with ropes as thin as 9.3 to as thick as 10.1 is the Edelrid HMS strike series carabiners--they are all the same size, but you want to make sure you get the ones with the keeper gates to prevent carabiner rotation.

    Hope this helped.

    Jack of all trades, master of none

    • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

    After using it for 2 years on both artificial walls and natural rocks, I'd like to give this 3.5 stars.

    Good:
    - Brake assistance (as in, it's there)
    - Smooth Guide mode
    - Big thumb hook
    - Very very similar to ATC Guide (guide mode is slightly different)
    - Nobody has it, so it's hard to get mixed up.

    Bad
    - Brake assistance is not perfect
    - Heavier and larger than MegaJul
    - Lowering in guide mode can be pain (compare to ATC Guide)
    - Rappelling sucks
    - Rappelling is smooth if you flip it, but it can be annoying to go up (ie testing rappel setup and shifting weight onto a rappel device before going down)
    - Carabiner sensitive
    - Slightly expensive.
    - Feeding slack can be awkward at first (locks up easily)

    All in all, it's a decent device with some minor annoyance, but no major flaw (as of yet). I'm looking forward to Smart 2.0 and eventually Smart Alpine 2.0 sometime in the future

    Quality you can taste

    • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

    Important things to note:
    1.) You need a large HMS biner because the belay device is actually quite wide.
    2.) Make sure the spine of the carabiner is on the side the rope is threaded in, or you are likely to pull the rope in between the gap between the two and get it stuck.

    Compared to a grigri and my atc, feeding slack is nearly as easy as the atc, and lowering is smooth as butter and far superior to a grigri. You also don't need belay gloves to lower really quickly.

    Mammut Smart

    For Rappelling - it can't be beat. Semi-autolocking on rappel - it's a great back up - and you can always add a prussik for double the safety.



    Smooth belaying comes with practice, but this device does it all.

    Great device

    • Familiarity: I've used it several times

    The more you use it, the more you'll love it. I'd say it has a learning curve of sorts, but once you spend a couple days with it, things will work nice and smooth for you.

    I use a Mammut HMS with it but I do find the rope being used also effects just how well the device functions. Maybe I'm crazy, but I find the particular 9.1 and 9.5mm ropes I have feed through and lock up much better than one of my 10mm ropes. Probably not a huge deal, but figured I'd mention it.

    Rappelling smoothly is likely one of trickier aspects of learning to use the Smart, but it is great that it provides a quick and easy block to serve as a added measure of safety with no added effort.

    Pick one up, if you're not overly thrilled with it at first, keep using it, and maybe try it with different biners and ropes. I bet it'll grow on you.

    Great piece, but has a bad spot.

    • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

    This piece has been a serious part of my climbing for several years. It works fantastic,... For the most part. Almost flawlessly, but that is part of the problem. The times that it doesn't has resulted in very sketchy situations with a partner at the top of a climb. The device can still get cross loaded on a locker, and worse yet, the rear end can jam underneath requiring a lot of slack and jagging around to get it free. I guess that in the jammed position, the rope won't budge, so it'll still catch the climber, but the fact that it happens bothers me because the load is being applied where it's not designed to be loaded. This problem may be simply the choice of locking 'beiner I made (Black Diamond Gridlock). The problem may not be able to occur on others. So choose a locker wisely and only use it for belaying with this device.

    Another thing, double rope rappelling is very rough. There's a very fine line between too little release (locked) and too much (going skydiving). This results in a herky jerky descent. I find using a regular tube device more easily controllable.

    Furthermore, keep an eye on the center rib of the device. Granted, mine is used 99% of the time, the force of catching falls and general wear has mushroomed the material enough to create a rough edge. Not necessarily sharp, but something that needs to be filled smooth before using on something major.

    Now, the good. The device works like a Grigri without the weight or the mechanical components of it making it very light for its function. It's very easy to handle and lowering is highly controllable. Autoblocking feature makes it great for multi pitch. It also works great to safely belay/lower on a frozen/water soaked rope when ice climbing. I do intend to keep the device and look into other options for a locker.

    I literally just emailed mammut about thi device and rappelling, and my hunch was correct. You can flip the device around sideways 180 degrees and rappel with the brake strands over the

    Very functional and perfect price!

    • Familiarity: I've used it several times

    This is an excellent belay device. The device cinches down tight on the rope in the event of a fall and requires very little force on the break hand to hold a climber. (Always keep a hand on the break!)

    I use this for indoor top rope as well as sport climbing outside.

    Indoors, this device is great for when your climbing partner is struggling on a difficult route. With minimal slippage and an easy breaking mechanism, the belayer wont get worn out hold the break side of the rope after a lot of falls. Lowering a climber takes a little getting used to, but after some practice you can achieve a quick, smooth lower.

    In sport climbing, the belayer can easily pull out slack to a lead climber. This device is really handy when cleaning a sport anchor. The device is great for rappelling down. It takes a while to get the hang of rappelling, but its a very safe device that wont let you take a long fall if you lose control of your break hand.

    At the price, you cannot beat this! Does more than a grigri for half the cost! Love it!

    I literally just emailed mammut about thi device and rappelling, and my hunch was correct. You can flip the device around sideways 180 degrees and rappel with the brake strands over the

    Favorite piece of gear!

    • Familiarity: I've used it several times

    I bought the original SMART belay device and loved it's functionality so much that I upgraded to the alpine belay. This device is great for belaying, and gives a nice piece of mind as it auto locks when prompted. Great for lowering and belaying from a top anchor as well! Great device at a great price!

    Cool Idea

    • Familiarity: I've used it several times

    I used this for a month before giving it to my friend (went back to my trusty Cinch). It was very well made and a cool idea. It worked really well for the most part. I ended up giving it away because it just wasn't for me. Perhaps I'm just too used to my Cinch.

    Awesome device!

    • Familiarity: I've used it several times

    This is probably my new favorite climbing tool. The reason I like it so much comes down to its versatility, namely, being able to use it as a reliable auto-blocking belay, and rappel device. The auto-blocking function works excellently for both uses. Rappelling with the Smart Alpine is a little clunky at first, while figuring out how to feed rope through smoothly, but I'll take a little chop from the device catching me over the opposite any day. As with any device, you always want to keep a hand on the brake end of the rope, but it's nice having the peace of mind that, should anything go wrong, you will likely be fine.

    One note with this device, however, is that you want to be careful to select a good 'biner for it. Any kind of broad radius HMS carabiner should do. Make sure you set it up so the device is on the broad end of the biner (narrow end facing you), with the spine (opposite the gate) on the same side the rope is running through. The reason for this is that, while it is unlikely, with a smaller carabiner, it is possible to catch the corner, preventing the rope from binding enough to properly auto-block.

    My new favorite gift to give to climbers

    • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

    After having now used this device for 5 seasons, i'd have to say i can not imagine climbing without it.

    The autolocking action on rappel is what makes this device ideal - it keeps you safe, when things could go wrong. It allows you a little more wiggle room to mess with the rope and it will prevent a very serious accident, hopefully.

    I've now become so intune with how it belays that there is no sticking or catching when giving slack or taking it in.

    Stop messing around and get with the times!

    Awesome Belay Device!

    • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

    I love the Smart Alpine! I don't think I will go back to another belay device as long as Mammut keeps making these. It has everything you could ever need: assisted-locking for catching a leader fall, double rope capability for rappels, twin ropes, and half ropes (Note: they have two models for different rope diameters), and a guide mode auto-lock for belaying your second climber. All with no moving mechanical parts and weighing at just 4.8 ounces (135g). Initially, it can take a little while to get used to using the device, and I would recommend reading/looking at Mammut's documentation on proper usage so the transition is easier. Here is a video from Mammut on YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yoziFy96L4g .
    Awesome belay device that can handle pretty much anything you could ever throw at it.

    Has it all

      Just the fact that I can rappel with this device and belay makes it pretty dope. My ATC started to get wear and tear but I just started using this device, easy to use and it's great that it has so many purposes.

      Confidence Inspiring Belay Device

      • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

      I have used an ATC and a grigri 2 for many years climbing, and this device easily replaces it. The ability to belay, rappel, and have that auto locking feature is excellent. I like that it uses the familiar belay technique of an ATC, but has the locking feature for the added comfort in the event of a fall. Overall it is an excellent device that has landed a spot as my primary belay device, and I don't foresee that changing.

      Great for the outdoors

      • Familiarity: I've used it several times

      I first tried one of these in the gym, and honestly I did not like it. When my daughter started leading, I decided to get something that autolocks, and I piked up the Mammut Smart single rope, and I love that device. But I can't rap with it, so I need to bring an ATC when I go outside.

      After a previous trip (when the ATC dropped a few 100 feet), I needed another rap device, so this was the pick up. I used it this last weekend, and it is great. If I am doing multipitch, I will probably bring both, since I much prefer to belay with the single (though there is no guide mode), and I want a back up and something I can rap with.

      When rappelling, It feeds nice and smooth, and it does lock off. I wouldn't take my brake hand off, but it will let you use both hands if you need to clean a climb on rappel, or free up the rope from a crack.

      I use it with a BD Gridlick Screwgate, and it works perfectly. Make sure you do get something that has a secondary gate to ensure alignment on your harness.

      Awesome Device

      • Familiarity: I've used it several times

      Got this after using a friend's, and I love it! I've yet to rappel with it, but it belays very smooth and has worked well for me with 9.8 and 10.2 mm ropes.

      Has anyone used this device to belay a...

      Has anyone used this device to belay a climber in guide mode? If so, please share your experience...

      Best Answer

      Be sure to read the instructions (yes, crazy idea) - when belaying in guide mode, do not clip the ropes through the slot as you do normal belaying. The biner that clips the ropes should be outside the device. Hard to explain, so just read the instructions.

      When rigged properly this device pulls rope smoother than both the reverso or ATC guide from my experience. I have spent a lot of time burning energy pulling rope on top of a climb belaying seconds up and this device from mammut is by far my favorite. It stands a compromise of all the strengths of a gri gri and reverso put into a simple and efficient medium. Watch here at 1 min 34 sec. in this (rather corny) advertisement to see proper set up for belaying from above: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U382OtrXTH0

      This device is WAY easier to take up slack and is better than the ATC Guide in guide mode with the same size rope... If you set it up correctly that is. You NEED to put the biner that captures the rope outside the metal frame of the belay device.



      See these instructions from mammut for details on how to set it up on page 11.



      http://www.mammut.ch/images/Smart+Alpine+Instructions.pdf

      The people downplaying its effectiveness in 'guide' mode aren't using it correctly. You need a thick (think barstock not I-Beam) 'biner and it'll feed like butter. Also, it's a lot easier to release than the ATC Guide.

      Don't listen to the first two responses regarding auto block/guide mode. I've used BD ATC guide, Petzl Reverso 3 and Grigri for belaying from above on multi pitch. The alpine smart is way easier than ATC guide and reverso to pull and even a little easier to pull than the Grigri. It is also way easier to lower than the Guide and Reverso. The Grigri's only advantage is lowering, but it is way heavier, more expensive and still requires another devise to rap. I never use my Grigri anymore. Wish I saved the money. I'm now going to get a Alpine smart for half ropes.