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La Sportiva
Genius Climbing Shoe

4.428571428571429 out of 5 stars
14 Reviews
Current price: $87.75 - $153.30 Original price: $219.00
Up to 55% off
Color:Red

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Genius Climbing Shoe

La Sportiva calls the Genius Climbing Shoe its highest performing shoe for boulderers, sport climbers, and overhanging aficionados. The Genius gains its high performance through a No-Edge technology rubber overlay over the toe, which grips on edges and make-believe footholds like they were ledges. This remarkable technology lets you place your feet quicker and more efficiently, without having to readjust because No-Edge feels that good on the first step. The Genius also features La Sportiva's mind-bending P3 technology that made the Solution one of the most popular shoes today. P3 uses a Permanent Power Platform to maintain the Genius' aggressive downturn for life. Like the Testarossa, the Genius' heel is surprisingly soft, stretchy, and sensitive for a proper fit as well as solid heel-hooking.


Details

  • La Sportiva's most versatile climbing shoe for edging
  • No-Edge technology gives a greater grip on crimps and edges
  • Vibram XS Grip 2 is a softer rubber compound for greater traction
  • P3 power rand maintains an aggressive downturn designed for steeps
  • Leather upper with microfiber mesh at the tongue for breathability
  • Laspoflex midsole is stiff at the toe and flexible around the heel
  • Item #LSP005T
Upper Material
leather, microfiber
Lining
none
Closure
lace
Midsole
LaspoFlex with P3 (1.1mm)
Rubber
Vibram XS Grip2 (3mm)
Manufacturer Warranty
1 year
Last
PD 85
Profile
downturn
Asymmetrical Curvature
sharp
Claimed Weight
7.8oz
Activity
bouldering, sport, training

Overall Rating

4.5 based on 14 ratings

Review Summary

1 Stars - 0 reviews
2 Stars - 0 reviews
3 Stars - 4 reviews
4 Stars - 0 reviews
5 Stars - 10 reviews

Fits Slightly Large

Screen reader users: the following list provides a visual scale to illustrate the product fit. Please refer to the heading above for the fit type in text.
Runs smallTrue to sizeRuns large

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3 out of 5 stars

February 7, 2024

Not so great

I have been climbing with these for about a month and i have noticed a few things. The shoes are much better than rentals but have a few set backs. The size runs small, i have a 10 and I’m typically a 9.5 so you would think they are big, but unfortunately they are small. I know you want nice tight shoes but these are to the point where it’s uncomfortable. The next problem is why I’m giving these a three my feet are constantly getting stained even through the sock's. This has been causing irritation such that when i get home my feet are constantly itching, when i try to sleep my feet are just irritated, i have also noticed a rash here and there. I am disappointed to say but I need to now get a new pair of shoes ,and or look into some other brand's.

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Heath
lasportiva.com

Originally reviewed on lasportiva.com

5 out of 5 stars

August 6, 2021

Go to for Bouldering and Sport Climbing!

Familiarity:
I've put it through the wringer
Size Bought:
41.5
Height:
5' 11"
Weight:
155

These are one of my favorite all around shoes for bouldering and sport climbing! The lace closure system allows you to really dial in the fit and be extremely confident in heel hooking. The no edge technology takes a bit to get used to, but is amazing on any kind of sloping edge or small ripple in the rock. Once you are accustomed to how the Genius performs, it will allow you to do things you wouldn't have thought possible in traditional shoes. These shoes allow you to feel precise without needing to be. If you have laser precision footwork, something like the testarossa or solution might give you a slight edge in precision on really small edges or pockets, but if you are going for an onsight attempt or are doing any amount of smedging the genius is a jack of all trades and the shoe I'd always choose. My other favorite shoe is the skwama. These shoes beat the skwama for me in terms of how much support and confidence they provide on small holds while still maintaining a similar level of sensitivity. In addition to sport climbing in the genius, I sent all of my hardest boulder projects last year in this shoe. As soon as I received my pair, it instantly took over for the skwama on almost all of my projects. As for sizing info: My street shoe is an 11.5/12.5 depending on brand. (11.5 Hoka, 12.5 La Sportiva) In Genius I wear the same size as Skwama (41.5), Half size down from Solution and Solution Comp (42). I wear size 11m in Mad Rock Drones, 10.5m in 5.10 Hiangle, 10.5 in Evolv Oracle, 41.5 in Tenaya Mundaka/Iati/Oasi, and 41 in Tenaya Mastia.

Carter P
5 out of 5 stars

October 1, 2020

Favourite competition climbing shoes!

I love these shoes! They are my go to competition shoes. The no edge makes the breaking in period so quick and the laces give the best snug fit. They do stretch quite a bit over time, but the laces allow for the perfect fit no matter how many times you have worn them. They are a very soft shoe so I do not use them for training as they would wear out quickly.

A.W.
lasportiva.com

Originally reviewed on lasportiva.com

3 out of 5 stars

July 7, 2020

Wide heel box makes heel hooks fail!

Familiarity:
I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions
Size Bought:
43.5
Weight:
185

I would love to say it's a 5 star but unfortunately the heels has left me searching for other options. These shoes honestly can do anything else and perform as you'd expect, and even surpass expectation on difficult slabs. I'm a size 11.5 or 45 mens shoe and size down on all climbing shoes I have ever worn. I went for the size 43.5 Genius and find the heel remains loose even after sizing down. I suspect that as seen on the La Sportiva website that the shoe runs wide. be sure to size your heel width and toe box and check out the appropriate size for you!

Jonathan R
5 out of 5 stars

April 11, 2020

Wide and Laced-Fit Perfect!

As a guy with a wider midfoot (US 10.5), I really appreciate the lacing system and extra room in the toe box compared to the other La Sportiva models. This shoe preforms best on delicate slab as well as steep, overhung rock like you'll find in the Red. It's also a great indoor shoe. I've sized down to Euro 42 but would probably go down to 41.5 with no problem.

thirdeyeclimber
lasportiva.com

Originally reviewed on lasportiva.com

5 out of 5 stars

April 7, 2020

Perennial Favorite

I have a climbing shoe addiction, so there are always too many options in my pack. I'm guilty of bringing 2-4 pairs of climbing shoes to the crag every time I go climbing, and I always like to include the Genius. This shoe continues to surprise me with what it can do, and what it can do well. I'm on my 3rd pair now, and they're on their first resole, a major bonus for these particular shoes (factory no-edge Vibram XS Grip II soles are available). Durability is amazing, despite the fact that these are some of the thinnest soles on the market. The front tip of the shoe is wrapped by the sole, which protects the rand and expands the climbing surface area of the shoe. It increases what you can do with your footwork and how you can maintain tension/pressure without damaging the rand rubber. They take some time to break in, but once you're there, the fit is exceptional. I like to use these for hard sport climbing, but they can jam cracks really well and smear on desert sandstone better than almost anything else. Stiff enough for support on roped climbing, and soft enough for delicate footwork, there isn't much this shoe can't conquer. My favorite application is granite, these stick to anything with crystals.

RP2
lasportiva.com

Originally reviewed on lasportiva.com

5 out of 5 stars

December 10, 2019

Best Comp Shoe

This is by far my favorite shoe for indoor rock climbing. The sensitive no edge toe box is great for standing on volumes and feeling every foot hold. The shoe toe hooks better than any other lace up. The heel is slightly stiff out of the box but breaks in quite fast. The laces move very smoothly through the shoe and they feel more like a cinch up shoe.

Charlie
lasportiva.com

Originally reviewed on lasportiva.com

5 out of 5 stars

September 27, 2019

Amazing Specialty Shoe

I climb primarily outdoors and tend to prefer shoes with traditional edges typically. However, having spent some time on an extremely water polished low friction smooth limestone wall, the no edge technology greatly outperformed traditional edge shoes. I'm able to trust my feet on the worst footholds I've ever stood on! It did take me a bit of practice to get used to the no edge technology as the technique of how to place my feet is a bit different than a regular edge shoe. I haven't experience any durability issues with the Genius. I climb quite a lot and they last around a season of usage, the same as any other shoe I've ever worn. I can imagine the rubber wearing out faster than a regular shoe if I climbed in the Genius the same way as I climb in an edge shoe but the beauty of the no edge rubber is that more of the rubber can be utilized effectively and the rubber tends to wear out more evenly as opposed to an edge shoe where it's always the big toe that wears out.

Evan H
lasportiva.com

Originally reviewed on lasportiva.com

3 out of 5 stars

June 6, 2019

Fragile but sends

Love this shoe but it’s falling apart after 3 days of use. The sole is disconnecting from the shoe.

Benja
lasportiva.com

Originally reviewed on lasportiva.com

5 out of 5 stars

March 28, 2018

Wide fit and very sensitive

I had 2 pairs of Solutions delaminate on me after less than 2 months, then the third time I decided to skip out on the solution all together. After a bit of research found that the Genius is essentially a Testarossa re-designed. The Genius fit my wide forefoot, and narrow heel very well. I really like the slipper fit that they have, and I don't even tie them up unless I know I have to heel hook. Had mine for 7 months now, I climb about 2-3 times a week in the gym alone and they haven't shown any significant wear. Very impressed with the durability. The only sign of wear is the LS logo rubbing off. The No-Edge is great too, I notice the sensitivity a lot and it gives you that confidence to trust microchips. But if you accidentally kick you foot into the wall, you really feel it. The color is loud and flashy, so bonus if you like that. Overall a great shoe that I would buy again. The performance, and fit is great enough that I can overlook the price.

Doug
lasportiva.com

Originally reviewed on lasportiva.com