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  • G3 - Targa Ascent Telemark Ski Binding - Worldcup (Green)

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  • G3 - Targa Ascent Telemark Ski Binding - Worldcup (Green)

G3 Targa Ascent Telemark Ski Binding

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    14 Reviews


    The G3 Targa Ascent Telemark Binding—less leg fatigue, less binding wrestling, more fresh tracks.

    With the G3 Targa Ascent Telemark Binding, you'll be powering through backcountry hikes and steep powder descents. When in touring mode, the Ascent Binding's toe plate pivots on a stainless steel axle to promote a natural and efficient stride, and a pole-activated climbing heel pops up easily, so you're not left behind as you wrestle with climbing wires. Once you're ready for the descent, simply flick the front switch to convert the lightweight Targa Ascent Telemark Binding from tour to ski mode. As you snorkel through the pow, a sturdy retention bar secures this G3 binding in place, and the compression spring cartridges give you power and control.
    • Item #GGG0089

    Tech Specs

    [toe plate] aluminum alloy, [toe bar] stainless steel, plastic
    Stand Height
    40 mm
    Climbing Bars Included
    Climbing Bar Height
    70 mm
    Claimed Weight
    (pair) 3 lb 6 oz
    Recommended Use
    telemark, backcountry touring
    Manufacturer Warranty
    60 days

    Tech Specs

    • Reviews
    • Q & A

    What do you think about this product?

    Have questions about this product?

    Great for <200 pounds?

    • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

    Awesome cable binding. I have read all the reviews here, and wonder if there may be a user-to-binding mismatch. I weigh 160 pounds, use this binding at the area (T2 and/or Scarpa boots) as well as regularly in the back country (where I may 200 pounds with loaded pack). A) the climbing release rarely freezes - nothing a firm ski pole can't fix. B) the climbing post/ heel has never fallen on me in 7 years of regular use. C) cables haven't busted; and I have periodically sized them up for a men's 10.5 and sized them down for a men's 6 or smaller. They are lightweight compared to other brands, which is exactly why I selected them. Definitely the best of its kind, and wondering if some failures noted here are due to different size users. Last comment: springs under the boot do deliver a more powerful ski than springs on the side of the boot. If you are all about power, consider the BD 00 - though those cylinders sometimes spin loose.

    Lightweight setup, does not hold up to much

      I have skied this binding for two seasons now. They were alright my first season, but now I am using a new pair of boots (BD Seeker), and have broke two cables and a third is almost ready to pop. it was not on the same foot, or even in the same place. One foot broke at the hinge point by the toe piece, the other broke at the point going into the cartridge. The third one is stressed above the toe piece by the hinge point.
      Tension was checked at the local shop, both guys said it felt just fine. Not sure what the issue, if the boot / binding pairing just does not work or what. I do not have much faith with them in the back country now.

      I've had these bindings for 3 seasons now and I've had no problems ever. I usually destroy my skis and bindings buy these have held up day after day. Never replaced a cable, or broke anything. It's time to replace my cables finally as I've worn through the rubber sheath and starting to fray the cable but really, I have no complaints whatsoever. They just work like they're supposed to. Great on ascents, no noises and solid on the hairiest of descents. Maybe I got a good batch but these are the best cable bindings I've ever had.

      Aluminum Ascent breaks

        If you buy these, get the stainless steel ones, not the aluminum ones. Today my right binding plate split as I was kneeling to put on the left ski. As it split, it also pulled out one of the front mounting screws from the plastic binding frame/riser, busting this part, too. I am only 5'5", 132 ills, and 65 y.o. In 55 years skiing only once before have I broken a binding, and guess what: also a G3. That one was a stainless steel G3 Targa (not the ascent) mounted on XC skis. The rivets which attach the cross bar to the main plate had inadequeate heads and pulled free. G3 replaced that binding. My skiing buddy breaks G3 cables. Not reliable.

        Aluminum Ascent breaks

        Aluminum Ascent breaks

          If you buy these, get the stainless steel ones, not the aluminum ones. Today my right binding plate split as I was kneeling to put on the left ski. As it split, it also pulled out one of the front mounting screws from the plastic binding frame/riser, busting this part, too. I am only 5'5", 132 ills, and 65 y.o. In 55 years skiing only once before have I broken a binding, and guess what: also a G3. That one was a stainless steel G3 Targa (not the ascent) mounted on XC skis. The rivets which attach the cross bar to the main plate had inadequeate heads and pulled free. G3 replaced that binding. My skiing buddy breaks G3 cables. Not reliable.

          Aluminum Ascent breaks

          Serious icing problems

            These were my first tele bindings that have the touring mode. I love the idea of it but the switch to change them to ski mode always ices up. My last tour it was perfect powder and I had to ski down in tour mode because a was unable to switch over. I've tried just about everything from silicone spray, to wd40, to pouring water over them. I will not ever buy another pair!

            If you have some hot tea.... Pouring that over the front will probably work to loosen it. PLus you have to poke the ice out of the little connector under the plate with a knife, or something. It's devilish when you start off with fairly warm temps aNd go up into the alpine where it's colder. Next BC trip I'm going to try bringing a little bottle of antifreeze to spray on it. Oughta fix it quick. It's a real pain though, Poor design, and potentially risky. Hope this helps a bit.

            Cilmbing beast!

              I've had the Ascents for four years now and have logged on almost a hundred ski days with them. No mechanical failures and the bindings still function like new. I ski about 70% backcountry and 30% resort (hey, gotta practice turns before hitting the couloirs) and although they don't look beefy, they've always responded beautifully when dropping some parallel turns on steep terrain. I'm driving these with G3 Reverends (93mm waist) and Scarpa T2X...pretty mainstream. Yes, on my version, the heel lifts would fall down occasionally, but there's a counterintuitive fix: lubricate the heel pivot joint with some bike chain oil. then the elastic can oversome the friction of the joint and will stay in the contracted (up) position.

              Ascent with grief

                Bought my ascents three seasons ago and just got tired of the heel climber collapsing every few steps. Haven't used them since 09. Just what you want in your gear... hassels. Leave these alone until they figure out the obvious. Someone at G3 should take up telemark skiing...

                A million problems and a fix for each one

                  They break all the time. "Just carry extra cables!"
                  There's rocker launch. "You can get a wedge!"
                  They're not very powerful. "It must be your boots!"
                  They ice up. "Just carry a knife!"
                  They're squeaky as hell. REEE REEE REEE every turn. "oh come on you get used to it"

                  Howbout you just buy bindings that don't suck?

                  It'll Do For Now

                    I had wanted to get a touring Tele binding for about two seasons and found them necessary to have once I moved to the Rockies of Colorado. I only have one season under the belt on these bindings and have snapped a cable already. They do ice up pretty easy when in touring/ free pivot mode. The cables rub a bit on the toe end as it comes off the edge. But overall they have done the job but I won't be getting another pair on any ski I purchase in the future.

                    Not Happy with these in the SIerras

                      I am 6'1" weight 200 and ski t2 boots on Rossignol T4 skis. I have 3 continually recurring problems with these bindings.

                      1. Freezing up. I have tried H20-Proof grease, & white lithium grease to keep the ice from clogging 2 locations in this binding. Both ice up way too often.

                      Location A: Icy build up in front of the latch which moves forward to lock the binding in downhill mode. Location B: icy built up between the bar and the bottom of the toe plate that the latch moves into. Between those 2 locations, I almost never get to the top of a mtn without having to kick off my skis to dig out the ice.

                      Complaint #2 The climbing lifts don't stay up. These climbing lift fall back down way too easy. When there is lots of heavy snow falling on the ski while climbing steep slope, I often can't get more than 5-10 steps without the climbing lift falling down.

                      Complaint #3. I am only on my 2nd season of using these binding and the joint which enable the toe to pivot is getting loose. I can wiggle the bindings left&lt;-&gt;right way more than I like. It is also a little loose in the vertical direction. It makes me nervous that it will fail soon.

                      Broken cables for birthday.

                        I broke three cables on these bindings in less than a season. My spring pre-tension wasn't too tight, so that's not what did it. I have size 29.5 boots, and routed the cable straight through the toe box. I think this might be the issue. After the third cable broke on my birthday, I talked to the guys at 22 Designs. I was working at Targhee at the time and they hooked me up. Best bindings ever. The change was incredible. My first day skiing on Hammerheads forever changed my skiing for the better.
                        It's not that G3's are terrible, it's just that the Hammerheads are soooo much better. Don't even mess around with anything else. Hammerheads all the way!

                        Buy Voile Switchbacks

                          These are not my first choice for free pivot bindings. I thought these bindings were ok until I skied the Voile Switchbacks they are far and away better then the Ascents.

                          Ok, but why do you prefer the Switchbacks? I heard the metal rods help to transfer more power the the skis on the downhill, but is this sufficient when choosing a touring binding? I look at the Switchbacks and I find they look... cheap. They don't seem to pivot smoothly at all on tour mode, and the ski/tour mechanism seems like it will "switch back" to tour mode while I'm skiing down.

                          less than stellar

                            The first season I had my G3 Targa Ascents, I was a girl in love. The switch from touring mode to ski mode occurred without a hitch and I loved the freedom of the full pivot binding- genius!

                            Little did I know the honeymoon would end in season #2. This season these bindings have frozen up, gotten stuck, and have been a pain to switch into ski mode on almost every single tour I've done. One tour I was forced to ski parallel down in tour mode because the switch was so completely jammed. Now the knife I carry is more for chipping ice/soft snow out of the bindings than for slicing cheese at lunch.

                            It makes me wish I bought the BD bindings, unless someone has a tip out there for making the slide mechanism less susceptible to freeze.

                            Write your comment here...Dear Kathleen, do not despair! Like you I had more than annoying trouble with my ascent bindings icing up. The can opening tool on my knife was the essential tool to switch from climb to ski. I still carry my knife but never us it on my bindings. In my work we commonly use dry lubricants to protect the performance of running hardware on boats. These lubricants are safe on plastic or metal and are designed to enhance the working characteristics between them. The product I prefer is marketed by the Harken company its named Mclube. Its available in a small spray can handy in the wax bag for travel. I did carry this with me all season fearing the dread freeze up which never came. This single treatment at the beginning of last year endured early trips to our beloved Olympics (strangest snow on earth),to a three week trip in the Kooteneys, and then a spring finish in the Cascades. You can see that the remedy worked in all kinds of conditions and temperatures. So do not shop for new bindings,(sorry backcountry)! Mclube is also known as "sailcoat". You can obtain Mclube at most marine hardware stores wherever Harken gear is sold. It is very popular in dingy racing. If you are having trouble finding it I can send it to you. You can reach me at . This should solve in my opinion the only major complaint against the G3 ascent binding. As my canadian friends would say "Enjoy".

                            These are great - Resort and Back Country!

                              I've been looking to upgrade to a free pivot binding for when I earn my turns. I decided on these for three reasons A) G3's reputation and the netural feel that Targa's are know for. B) The bolt pattern was compatable with my K2 Work Stinx. C) I was using a hard wire binding before and I experienced unpredictable breakage when over time the flexing of the hard wire cable would cause the metal to fatigue and break unpredictably at the worst of times.

                              How did they work? I'm 6'2" and just under 200 lbs and I ski aggressively. I'm using the X-Mountain cartridges. 181 K2 Work Stinx with 3 buckle T1 Scarpa boots. A day at the resort (icy, windblown conditions) - After I got the cartridges set up to engage immediately when my heal started to come up these worked well giving me excellent control on steep, icy slopes. They did not hold me back doing tele jump turns in steep couloirs and negotiating frozen crud and other less desirable conditions. There were a few times that I was thinking that the Word Cup cartridges 40% stiffer springs would give me the ultimate in control on tough conditions like this, but my real passion is powder. I'm very pleased with this bindings ability to rip it up at the resort, I think if did more resort skiing then back country or you prefer a stiffer spring the World Cup option would be your best choice.
                              Powder day - Back country I started the day skiing with the binding in ski mode and it felt just like my old set up. No problems... Then I stuck my pole down and flipped the switch to open and this is a huge difference. I had to concentrate on keeping the ski on the snow and shuffling as my legs came up so easy I was picking the skis up of the snow at first. What a difference!

                              Now about the skiing - typical Colorado powder day - light and fluffy, 20" fresh. I'm sold on the G3 feel after a day in these conditions. My skis seemed to disappear under me and I had more controlled and fluid turns then I ever did before. Where I once struggled to keep my turns nice and rounded to control my speed in the steep and deep I was now rounding out my turns and really feeling the different soft and hard sections in the snow as I came down the mountain. This is what I was hoping for and the product delivered.

                              Addressing grips - I see some noted that climbing lifts would fall back down - mine came with an optional heel lock, basically a flat metal plate that mounts between the ski and the heel plate. It has a small ridge in it that locks the heal lifts in when up. There is an "click" sound when you snap the lifts in the locked up position. A flick of the pole is all thats need to get them back down. The lifts work smooth and are a nice upgrade from the old wire bails. I'd like to see a two stage climbing lift that you could easily switch while on the skin track.

                              Icing of the switch - I've not seen anything that does not ice up in the field. To clear it you just tap the switch open and closed with you pole and your heal in the lifted position. It's easy to tell if you have the binding in the lock or open position. Some times the whole binding is covered with snow so I would just brush it off and make sure I had it locked in with a gloved hand.

                              Hard to move switch - One one of my skies I noticed that after I mounted the binding the switch was sticky or hard to move. I took the binding off and it was smooth as butter...I noticed that the top sheet of the ski had a slight high spot just under the switch. I just sanded that down the slightest bit, reinstalled the binding and it worked perfect.

                              Parts and durability - I have several ski buddies who have run G3 Targas for years and they have proven to be durable and if you do need parts they are easy to find. I went with the SS (stainless steel) version for that extra durability since I ski often.

                              I did experience the cable pulling through the front of the binding at bit so the heel bail was off center. I skied on it that way all day with no issues but I was concered why it moved. I was running the cables in the max length position where they run straight through the front of the binding for the max cable length. At that position I had to screw the cartriges in almost to their limit to get the correct tension. In the medium setting the wire is looped over a cam, thus it's not going to pull through like that again, and I found that the cartriges were right in the middle of their adjustment at this setting. All around better and I have not experienced this issue again with the cable in this position. This would only be an issue if your foot (boot) is so big that you have to run the binding in the longest position.

                              Who should buy this binding? Anyone looking for a back country set up that shines in the powder that can also rip it up on resort days.

                              where do you get the metal plate that locks...

                              where do you get the metal plate that locks the heel lifter into climbing mode? Is there way to switch the heel lifter from high climbing mode to low mode without taking off the ski?

                              Quick question. Sell my Targa G3 ascents...

                              Quick question.
                              Sell my Targa G3 ascents and buy the 22 Designs Hammerhead?
                              Targa g3 ascents are barely used...

                              Anyone have much experience with this...

                              Anyone have much experience with this binding as a predominantly front-side binding? How does the lateral stability compare to other bindings (e.g., a Hammerhead)? I am looking for a binding to give as a gift to an intermediate telemark skier that rarely ventures outside of the resort.

                              Best Answer

                              I would suggest trying a simpler binding first. The lateral stability is good, similar to hammerhead or any other cable system but not as good as say an NTN system. Tons of people use them on piste, never heard a complaint.. The touring function however puts the toe fairly high above the ski and will compromise a bit of edge stability especially with an intermediate skier. The basic G3 targa or BD 02 might be a better

                              Lateral stability is not even close to a Hammerhead. Get hammerheads and use them in Position 3. As you get better, try 4 and 5. Hammerheads are lighter, too. Hammerheads will take you to new level in your skiing. They won't disappoint. I can't say enough to tell you what a superior binding the HH is to the Ascent. If you want broken cables and floppy heels, get the Ascent. If you want to caharge hard, lay out smooth lines with confidence and style, then get the Hammerhead or Axl.

                              So I got these bindings and mounted them...

                              So I got these bindings and mounted them on an older pair of tele skis. Just recently I went out and bought some bad new BD's...which I mounted the old bindings on. Now I want to switch the bindings back and forth between the skis. Is this possible? Or will it compromise the structure of the ski. Should I re-fill the holes with wood glue every time I switch the bindings?

                              This is NOT something i would recommend doing. if this is something you truly wanting to do i would look for mounting plates and then switch with those. all this said, i would make a choice. have one ski you want to tour on and one ski you want to ski in bounds.

                              You can switch the bindings a few times, if you are very careful to not strip the threads (maybe 2-3 times before the threading is toast). I would NOT use wood glue, but rather use epoxy. Wood glue just does not hold as well and rots out with repeated water exposure. Epoxy is a pain in the ass when you need to change the binding (you must head the screw heads), but it will hold much better than wood glue.

                              Don't mount skis using epoxy. It will make pulling the screws out much harder when you want to put those binders on another ski. It won't make it so that you can switch bindings repeatedly. Also, using epoxy won't lessen the chances of a binding ripping out in the event of a serious fall/crash, etc. Every shop tech I've talked to says wood glue is enough. All you're trying to achieve with glue is to keep moisture from getting in the core and rotting it out. Wood glue is better for that than epoxy.

                              Has G3 fixed the problem with the heel...

                              Has G3 fixed the problem with the heel lifter from falling down when hiking? Ascent binding.

                              Is there a womens and mens version of this...

                              Is there a womens and mens version of this binding?

                              will my 10.5 EE Chippewa boot fit into...

                              will my 10.5 EE Chippewa boot fit into these bindings?

                              Did I already answer your question, or am I going crazy? If your boot has a 75mm duckbill toe (standard tele boot toe) it will fit. And are you rocking leather boots? If so, kudos, I learned on leather, and it takes a real man to stick with em...

                              Unanswered Question

                              I need questions. Between these, the voile...

                              I need questions. Between these, the voile switchback, black diamond 01, adn 7tm power tour, which is the best and why?

                              I have g3 bindings with crosstour springs....

                              I have g3 bindings with crosstour springs. have upgraded to fat skis and stiff boots. what is the reasoning behind going to stiffer springs when using stiffer boots?

                              Will this binding work with the K2 Hippy...

                              Will this binding work with the K2 Hippy Stinx? Do they need some type of adaptive plate or will they just screw right into the ski? Thanks.