Five Ten

Hiangle Climbing Shoe

Somewhat odd shoe

Familiarity:

I've put it through the wringer

The Hiangle has been my training shoe for about 10 straight months now. This means indoor bouldering, board climbing, and the occasional outdoor bouldering circuit. Five ten labels this shoe as a comfortable, performance shoe, and, based on how many people use this as an indoor/comp bouldering shoe, you’d assume it’s quite soft. It’s actually the opposite of those things, incredible stiff and brutally painful to break in. I couldn’t keep them on for more than one moonboard problem at a time when I was first breaking them in, or about 20 seconds. I imagined the Hiangle was five tens answer to every other brand’s one strap aggressive bouldering shoe, but it’s actually an odd amalgam of Miura stiffness, ski boot sensitivity and a lack of toe sharpness and asymmetry. After about 6 months, once the midsole begins to break down, they become much more sensitive and adept for most types of climbing; the comfort also begins to increase as your foot can bend more naturally when smearing. My main complaint remains on the shoe’s lack of precision in the toe box. Lots of heal tensioning maintains the shoe’s aggressive downturn after the midsole flattens out as well. The shoe performance best on 30-40° walls with positive footholds when you can really toe down and pull yourself into the wall. I’m not sure I’d buy them again but I have to give them credit for holding up to a lot of climbing and still looking almost brand new, one resole and 10 months later. I’d also say that if you don’t enjoy the popular mega soft, downturned, asymmetric bouldering shoes that make up 90% of the market, the hiangles may be worth looking at for a stiffer, more symmetrical option. For reference I wear 12.5-13 in street shoes and I purchased these in a 12.

Sizing overshadows potential performance

Familiarity:

I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions

Size Bought:

11.0

Height:

5' 8"

Weight:

170

I wear US 9.5 street shoes and have owned several pairs of 5.10 Cayote and Anasazi shoes with the largest being size US 10.0 lace up. I have purchased and returned several 5.10 aggressive shoes in the Blackwing, Arrowhead, new style Hiangle, and now the old style Hiangle. I decided to take a chance on the old version Hiangle US 11.0 which is 1.5 sizes larger than my street show and a full size larger than the roomy all day comfortable largest Anasazi lace-up. Reviews indicate they will stretch up to a a half size but the blisters on each knuckle of my toes after 2 bouldering sessions says I needed to go even larger; however, then run the risk of the heal and mid-section not fitting my foot. I will likely use another few sessions once the blisters heal but right now it seems like I need a 12.0. Sizing aside, the initial performance was good with immediately bagging a couple of indoor boulder problems I was not able to with less aggressive shoes.

Sizing?

Familiarity:

I returned this product before using it

Size Bought:

10.5

Height:

5' 10"

Weight:

200

I bought a pair of these two years ago and they took a while to break in. I'm accustomed to that, and expected this to be the case. Those were from REI and I returned them when I had an injury and wasn't sure if I would be climbing again. Thanks to the surgeon, I am bakc climbing again and decided to find this pair to try again with them because they are a great shoe. Bought the same size as the previous pair, but when I tried on this new pair, I could not even get my feet in the shoes without working at it. I expected this from the newer model (which I've tried on and experienced problems with sizing as well), but that's the reason I opted for the Teal/Grey model (several years old now). By that time I did, circulation was being cut off. "Same size" doesn't always mean they are the same size - this was a valuable reminder that each pair of climbing shoes fits differently. I'm in the process of an exchange with Backcountry, but I'm not certain about what's going on. I received a half-refund, but after doing the math, there is a discrepancy in the amount, and I've been given an account credit, which I did not ask for. During the exchange process, I've talked with two different people, who claimed to process my exchange, but have yet to receive the new shoes, the appropriate refund, or ANY follow-up communication. This entire experience shows me that Backcountry is not reliable, nor are they making the online exchange process simple and straight-forward. I'll likely never use Backcountry again, nor will I recommend the site to anyone, in fact, quite the opposite as evidenced in this review. UPDATE: Joe has been very helpful with me on the phone, in getting the correct size sent out as an exchange. Thanks for your efforts Joseph S., hopefully I will not need to exchange the pair you're shipping me...

Made in the US

Familiarity:

I've used it several times

Size Bought:

8.5

Height:

5' 8"

Weight:

174

Maybe I was lucky, but the ones I got were of Turquoise/Grey color made in the US with an old familiar sizing.

The stitching started to come undone only after a week of wearing

Versatile climbing shoe

They take a while to stretch so they’re slightly uncomfortable at first but are very good as a climbing shoe.

Solid shoe but sizes are way too small

A nice shoe and comfortable on the wall, however the sizing is absolutely crazy small and you'll have to go down 1-1.5 sizes at least from your normal shoes. I have a good fitting pair of 10.5UK Gambits and the 11.5UK Hiangle is barely large enough.

Poor quality control.

I bought these shoes looking for a new slipper, but the eyelet broke after three sessions. It was pretty ridiculous, but Adidas kindly sent me a new pair. Pe

These are a quality shoe, but far too small need to go a full size up...

I’ve had to sell them as they were far to small....