Anasazi Pro Climbing Shoe
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Professional climber Shauna Coxsey wore Five Ten Anasazi Pro Climbing Shoe prototypes when she won the IFSC Bouldering World Cup in 2017. Not only did she send in them, but she also worked with Five Ten designers to make a show worthy of her powerful prowess. Compared to the original Anasazi, the Anasazi Pro boasts a little more heel tension to provide better aggression and precision. The toe patch is also a new update to the Anasazi family, and it's made of Five Ten's stickiest Stealth Mi6 rubber for reliable friction. The bottom rubber is Five Ten's ever-trustful Stealth C4 rubber that Coxsey admittedly used when she first started climbing at the age of four.
Details
- The professional Anasazi for aspiring, competitive climbers
- Tighter heel tension gives a more aggressive, precise fit
- Stiff Stealth C4 sole amplifies pressure on small holds
- Stealth Mi6 rubber enhances the toe patch's friction
- Synthetic upper with full rubber toe practically eliminates stretching
- Item #FVT003U
- Upper Material
- synthetic [toe patch] Stealth Mi6
- Lining
- unlined
- Closure
- hook-and-loop straps
- Rubber
- Stealth C4 (4.2mm)
- Profile
- flat
- Asymmetrical Curvature
- high
- Claimed Weight
- 9.6oz
- Recommended Use
- climbing
- Manufacturer Warranty
- 1 year
Reviews
Q&A
Overall Rating
5 based on 4 ratings
Review Summary
Fits True To Size
Screen reader users: the following list provides a visual scale to illustrate the product fit. Please refer to the heading above for the fit type in text.What do you think about this product?
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Selecting an option will reload the available reviews on the pageJanuary 12, 2021
Useful update to the original classic
- Familiarity:
- I've put it through the wringer
- Size Bought:
- 9
- Height:
- 5' 10"
- Weight:
- 160
My new long route shoe, in the Valley or in the alpine.. even on the occasional slab boulder... The rubber toe patch helps out with the cracks, and make a big difference if you?re wearing em on the steeps... great toe hooking/bicycles. The heel is a bit tighter than the original too, so super secure heel hooking.
May 6, 2020
Timeless<3
- Familiarity:
- I've used it several times
- Size Bought:
- 9.0
- Height:
- 5' 11"
- Weight:
- 145
Forever a great shoe. Enough said. Thank you backcountry for such a great deal!
April 8, 2020
Best shoe I have owned in years
- Familiarity:
- I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions
- Size Bought:
- 12
- Height:
- 6' 1"
- Weight:
- 175
I have been climbing for about 4 years, and currently climb at around V4/V5 and 5.12a outside, V5/V6 inside. I have owned quite a few different shoes (will list sizing and models at bottom of review), and have really struggled to find something that works well for me. In most downturn shoes I have tried on, even ones sized modestly, I have pretty bad foot pain and cannot climb for long stretches without blisters or hot spots. I toughed this out for a while and climbed in the shoes "pro's" recommended, and I think it was pretty detrimental to my climbing. I had trouble leading above gear because I was focused on the pain, and hated doing boulders with small feet because it hurt to put pressure on my toes. I also found smearing to be a terrible battle in every downturned shoe I've tried on. It's hard to get friction on a wall when the bottom of your shoe is curved. A year ago I started trying out flat, or slightly down cambered, asymmetrical shoes. After trying on a lot of different models, I bought some 5.10 Stoneland Laces, and loved them. I climbed up to V4 and 5.11b outside in them, and while I could notice a difference in their performance, the lack of pain allowed me to climb WAY harder. However, after 6 months or so they became so soft it was hard to edge well in them. When the stonelands burnt out, I tried on 8 different pairs of shoes to try to find something that was a little more aggressive (think higher heel tension) and asymmetrical without being painful. While I liked the stonelands, they aren't the best for climbing above 5.11. Tried Vapor V's, Evolv Supra's, Tenaya Masai's, and La Sportiva Otakis. None of them fit well, they were either too tight/painful, or too loose with dead space in the toes. I was about to give up and get another pair of Stonelands, when I tried on the VCS pros. And holy cow, are they dope. I got these in street size, and my toes are ever so slightly bent in them with no pain, no hot spots, and no blisters. I tried on half a size below street, and while they were more comfy than any downturn shoe I tried, my toes were pressing hard into the toe box and causing pain. The heel tension in them was perfect (pretty forceful without causing any rubbing), and there was a level of asymmetry that clearly increased precision without being uncomfortable. They were a bit stiff, but, stiff is good for the limestone I climb because of all the microedges. They weren't as comfy as my stonelands, but thats simply because the stonelands are so floppy after they break in that you feel like you are wearing a sock with rubber on it. The VCS strike an amazing balance of comfort and performance feel. When I took them out the first time, I was worried they were too big. My toes weren't curled as much as I typically like, but as soon as I hopped on the 5.12 I've been projecting I realized they were perfect, and that I didn't need super curled toes to climb hard. Even with slightly curled/almost flat toes I could stand on literally everything I saw. The precision was downright stupid. There's this stemming move at the crux of the route, where you have to back step as hard as you can with your right foot on a terrible sloping edge, and put as much force into it as possible to cause compression between your legs so you don't pop off. I was able to crank down on that hold as hard as possible, without the shoe slipping at all. It actually felt like my foot was glued to the rock. I have only wore these out once, and will update this review with pics/information after a few months of climbing, but I'm very impressed. They are an amazing all around shoe, and I think they will excel on vertical and overhanging routes, as long as you aren't past 45 degrees. VCS pro: 12 Street size: 12 Nike: 12 (sometimes 12.5) Vans: 12 (sometimes 12.5) Futura: 45.5 (11.5) 5.10 VCS Standard: 11.5 Stonelands: 12.5 LS Nago: 44.5
April 6, 2020
Review Continued
- Familiarity:
- I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions
- Size Bought:
- 12
- Height:
- 6' 1"
- Weight:
- 175
Also, if you're going to order climbing shoes, do it from Backcountry. My gearhead Kayla was incredibly helpful, especially when trying on different shoes and returning sizes that did not fit. The gearheads will work to ensure you get a product you love, and if anything goes wrong or you accidentally get the wrong size, they will work to make things right. I don't think I'll buy shoes from any other retailer ever again. 5 stars just for BC because of the process.
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January 30, 2021