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Evolv Oracle Climbing Shoe

$180.00

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    Oracle Climbing Shoe

    As a climber, you know when it's time to take your performance to the next level. With the Evolv Oracle Climbing Shoes, crush steep, overhanging routes with precision and comfortable support. Built with a Love Bump and Knuckle box, these shoes allow space for your toes to spread and move as you push them into the rock. The Dark Spine heel rand and midsole keeps this shoe on your foot even through the most heinous heel hooks and inverted toe-jams. For support and unrivaled friction, Evolv added an FSS Heel Tensioner and laces for next-to-skin comfort on the the tiniest foot chips while Trax SAS rubber keeps your feet stuck to smears and drop-knees of all angles.

    • An aggressive climbing shoe built for overhangs and steep sport climbing
    • Love Bump construction allows toes to splay while you press
    • Knuckle Box maximizes edging power and precision
    • High tension heel rands keep your shoes on in heel hooks
    • Speed laces and Tensioner support adds control and next-to-skin fit
    • Item #EVL001K

    Upper Material
    synthetic
    Closure
    lace
    Midsole
    medium stiffness
    Rubber
    Trax SAS rubber
    Profile
    aggressive
    Asymmetrical Curvature
    aggressive
    Claimed Weight
    1lb 2oz
    Recommended Use
    bouldering, climbing training, sport climbing
    Manufacturer Warranty
    limited lifetime

    Tech Specs

    What do you think about this product?

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    >Rating: 5

    Great Shoe

    Familiarity:
    I've used it several times

    This was my first step towards an aggressive shoe. I used to have the TC pros but wanted something a little more performance driven. These lived up to the test! The high toe box made the transition and almost pain free. I wear a size 8.5 street shoe and found the size 9 Oracle to be a great fit!

    >Rating: 5

    Fit is a VERY personal thing...

    Familiarity:
    I've put it through the wringer

    I've got a relatively wide forefoot and narrow heel, plus some arthritis and bunion action that makes it really hard to find a comfortable high-performance shoe. Too tight and I ache while I'm climbing. Too loose and my toes aren't working together and my poor arthritic big toe is ruined by the end of a long day. I've been in the Butora Acro for the last couple of years, which were the first aggressive shoe that really worked well for me. But they're not perfect...weird baggy heel fit and not enough height in the toe box. The Oracle is better on both fronts. It's hard to draw performance comparisons with other shoes because fit is really the overriding factor and YMMV. That said, I'm super happy with the overall level of precision, rubber, nice slippery lacing system that makes it easy to get them on and off, etc. Great on steeps and techy slab. Feels like maybe the heel could use more rubber on the sides, but that's just me quibbling. This is easily the best shoe (for my foot) that I've used. I wear a size 12 street shoe, size 12 Butora and size 12 Oracle (and everything else in Evolvs line I've tried). Size is bang on...a few hotspots and hard to get on at first, but flawless after they soften up a bit.

    >Rating: 5

    Amazing bouldering shoe!

    Familiarity:
    I've used it several times

    These are super comfy and reliable bouldering shoes. The down turned toe is great and the edges felt very secure.

    >Rating: 5

    Great shoe for high performance

    I wore these a half size larger than my street shoe and was able to start climbing hard pretty much from the start. The expanded toe box definitely alleviated the pain familiar to anyone who's broken in a new pair of rock shoes. I found that the lacing system really locked all of my foot into the shoe with the heel feeling especially solid. The sole is on the stiffer side and I could really feel its benefit in being able to maximize the power going through my feet, particularly in gaining leverage on smaller holds. While it comes as no surprise that a shoe with such an aggressive profile, snug heel, and stiffer sole would excel both for technical bouldering and overhanging sport routes (as it does), I was surprised by how well it performed on more vertical walls as well. The Oracles handle the precise edging required by technical face climbing very nicely. Overall, I find these shoes very confidence inspiring when climbing most anything near or at my limit.

    >Rating: 4

    Aggressive but functional

    Familiarity:
    I've used it several times

    Very new to climbing so take this with a grain of salt. This shoe is aggressive, and seems to fit a little smaller than even other climbing shoes. Edges feel great and inspired confidence when climbing. Overall seems to be a solid shoe with no issues to date.

    >Rating: 5

    fits like a glove

    Familiarity:
    I gave it as a gift but have feedback to share

    my friend got it and used it that same day and told me he loved the edges and that it fit like a glove, well as best a glove could fit if it was an uncomfortable climbing shoe.

    >Rating: 4

    VW Busses Don't Run

    Familiarity:
    I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions

    I took these down to the desert to do some bouldering, I drove my VW bus (1985 Vanagon), My friend and I made it without a problem. We bouldered for most of the day, the shoes held up well, they're aggressive, and surprisingly comfortable. They run a bit small, I got a half size bigger than I usually get. I had a fun day. Then we went to move the Vanagon...IT DID NOT MOVE...my friend was unconcerned and went on to cook dinner, I had a panic attack and started rationing supplies. We eventually bump started the bus and drove straight home without stopping once. Moral of the story buy these shoes, DON'T buy a VW bus!

    >Rating: 4

    Nice shoe

    Familiarity:
    I've used it several times

    This shoe is really nice I liked it a lot, it had a super aggressive feel to it, and that is something I look for in my climbing shoes. I do a lot of bouldering, and a little bit of sport climbing. They fit the foot really tight as well which I liked giving you a lot of power out of the shoe, as well as helping you be confident on big moves. They have worn out defiantly but every shoe does, and I think this shoe does just as much as any other shoe. It is great.

    >Rating: 2

    Didn’t Last Very Long

    Familiarity:
    I've put it through the wringer

    Evolv definitely runs small - I sized up from a 38 in La Sportiva (Solutions & Miuras) to a 40 for the Oracles. Overall, I was unhappy with this shoe and would not recommend it. I was really excited when I first got them and they were seemingly perfect - but only for a month or so. Details: I typically stick to La Sportiva and generally steer clear of Evolv but got a certificate for a free pair of them, so I chose the Oracles. I was really hype when I first got them - compared to the La Sportiva Solutions whose heel cup is wayy too big for my heel, the Oracles felt great initially even though they were a little tight on the top of my foot. Besides the slight discomfort on the top of my foot, they were the perfect tightness, the heel fit perfectly, the edging was great, and they were just soft enough. However, after a month or so I noticed that there was a huge gap between the top of my foot and the shoe at around the top of the shoelace area. Then, 3 months or so after I got the shoes, I could feel them starting to stretch out, and the heel no longer felt so secure. Additionally, whenever I put a lot of weight on just my toe, my heel would slip out of the shoe a little bit. 6 months after I got the Oracles, there were good sized holes in the both the toes, which normally happens to my shoes due to sloppy technique but after a year or so not 6 months. There was also a hole in the sole (I attached a picture) which has never happened before and is a product of just poor durability. I climb at the gym about 3 days a week and climb outside once every other week or so. All of my other shoes (La Sportiva and Scarpa) have gone at least 10 months before developing holes in the toe and none of them have gotten a hole in the sole like the Oracles did.

    Evolv
    >Rating: 3

    Breaking It In

    Familiarity:
    I've used it several times

    I usually climb in La Sportivas because their shoe structure works really well with the shape of my feet (low volume) but I wanted to branch out. Fit: Evolv definitely runs small - I went up a full size from a 37, which I wear in Miuras, Solutions, and Katakis. Once you size up the shoe is relatively comfortable. The left shoe felt tighter than my right, but that's typically the case with me. I might be used to a more moderate shoe like the Miuras, but I found these to be just a little too aggressive for what I've been climbing. A downturn is nice, but after climbing in Miuras for the last 6 months, I don't feel that much of a downturn is always necessary. I found the rubber a little too thick, and I felt less dialed into my feet/the wall. I've only done a few climbs in them and I can feel they still need to be broken in. I think this shoe could handle a lot of wear n tear though and can definitely be part of a full quiver. It might not be the shoe for me, but Evolv is used by many top athletes and could be what you're looking for!

    >Rating: 5

    My Favorite Shoe and Here is Why!

    Familiarity:
    I've put it through the wringer

    Quality: i love how these shoes look. Color scheme is great, i feel like i can tighten my shoes EXTREMELY tight and it feels solid still. I don't feel like i might rip something off or that the laces will snap. all the rubber is also extremely solid. nothing feels like it is going to peel anytime soon. the heal strings are genius. I have a pretty narrow heal and wide front of my foot and the tabs on the side let me pull a heal that would usually be loose to become tighter than most. Sizing: I wear a 11 (us) in vans, Saucony and adidas and these shoes fit me perfectly. i can make them really tight or warm up in them unlaced and feel no discomfort, i am comfortable to walk across the gym if i must but after a few hours i definitely take them off to walk. Construction: this shoes heal is really solid, same with the toe. I do have a little space in the front of my shoe on the top but it does not affect my edging, smearing or toe hooks. that space formed over time. Over All: this is my absolute favorite shoe! i highly recommend it and would especially recommend it for people with narrow heals. the strings really tighten up the back.

    >Rating: 3

    Almost great

    Familiarity:
    I've used it several times

    Got the Oracles after reading a bunch of 5 star reviews here and on other sites. They sounded great and I wore the original Evolv Shamans for years and loved them on all climbs. My first reaction once I got the Oracles on my feet was surprised at how uncomfortable they were, specifically in the top of the toe area. I even exchanged the size 9's to a 9.5 and still painful. So bad, it ripped the skin off the top knuckles of my toes. I wore band aids and continued to try to break them in, but after a couple weeks it still hurts. The pain isn't so fun but hey, I'll sacrifice for amazing performance in a climbing shoe. Unfortunately there is a major issue with the rubber for me. When standing on small edges or the lip of a pocket, the tip of the toe rubber looses it shape and bends up. I'll try to attach some pictures to demonstrate. I think the rubber must be too thick and/ or too soft. Just gives an insecure and clumsy feeling. I climbed in the gym and outside. They felt more insecure and clunky on real rock that required precise footwork and standing on little holds for longer routes. I hate being a bummer and saying negative things about these shoes because Evolv is a great company and they have made some of the best I've worn. I'll keep wearing them and if they get more comfy and secure feeling on footholds, I'll update the review for sure.

    Got
    >Rating: 5

    Comfier than performance shoes should be

    Familiarity:
    I've put it through the wringer

    After years climbing almost exclusively in Shamans, I recently decided to start experimenting with some other models. The experimenting stopped with these. This is the perfect rock climbing shoe. Toes in great on pockets on steep rock, edges brilliantly, and, surprisingly, super comfortable. I have no qualms about taking this shoe down to Potrero for 10+ pitch routes. Nowhere near me had it in stock, so I took a chance and ordered from Backcountry in my street shoe size (10). They were a bit tight at first but within 2-3 climbs had stretched slightly to their now perfect fit. For comparison sake, I'm a 9.5 in Shamans, a 42 (10) in Scarpa Instinct VS, and an 8 (lol) in 5.10 Verdon VCS.

    How does the heel feel compared to the gen 2 Shamans? I've been looking at these and wanted a slightly higher volume heel.

    >Rating: 5

    Soft Sole and Comfortable Downturn

    Familiarity:
    I've used it several times

    After 2 weeks in climbing in Greece, the Oracle quickly became the most comfortable aggressive shoe I have ever worn. With the contuation of the Love Bump and the introduction of the Dark Spine mid sole that greatly increases heel hooking capabilities, these shoes form fit to your foot. The lace system is actually preferred in this shoe as it has an FSS Tension system to help lock in the heel (I typically use velcro, but love the additional support that the lace system provides in this shoe). Did I mention The Evolv Oracle was awarded the 2018 Climbing Editor's Choice Award from Climbing Magazine? If you liked the Shaman, but thought that the last was too hard, try the Oracle. It is my new go to aggressive shoe!

    After
    >Rating: 5

    Sending Gear

    Familiarity:
    I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions

    Best shoe i have found yet. I have found that they fit my foot very well (laces help here), and are slightly more compliant than some aggressive shoes. I actually wish they were slightly stiffer, as i am a bit heavier than most climbers (175 lbs) and find edging to be better with a stiff shoe. However, overhanging terrain is where this shoe shines. Sticks well to granite and sandstone. True to street shoe fit for me.

    >Rating: 5

    Great shoes

    Familiarity:
    I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions

    These shoes were comfortable right out of the box! I wear a 12 street shoe and I got a 12 in these and they fit perfect. I went down to the Red River Gorge in Kentucky and the Oracles performed great. I did not second guess or hesitate any moves with them. We climbed overhang and a couple slabs and even on the slabs the Oracles did not disappoint! I recommend the Evolv Oracles for comfort and performance. Shout out to gearhead Geoffrey Conner for assistance on my purchase!

    >Rating: 5

    Best ever made...

    Familiarity:
    I've put it through the wringer

    I'm going to keep this short and sweet... The Oracle from Evolv is the best climbing shoe EVER made. The design is perfect out of the box. I wear my street shoe size in ALL Evolv products, but I'm being honest with you all when I say these are the best shoes on the market. Side note: I work in the industry as a professional route setter. These are AMAZING!