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Edelrid Mega Jul Belay Kit

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Mega Jul Belay Kit

Out of all the assisted-braking belay devices and carabiners, Edelrid's Mega Jul Belay Kit is probably the most practical option for multi-pitches and alpine approaches, especially if there are rappels involved. Most assisted-braking devices only allow one strand of the climbing rope, and out of the rest this Mega Jul is one of the lightest and most compact. The Mega Jul's clever design pinches the rope tight when it rushes through the device too quickly, and the thumb helps you regulate the brake's friction. Nothing wears out carabiners like a lot of rappelling, which is why Edelrid integrated a steel insert in the HMS Bulletproof Screw FG Locking Carabiner for longer lasting durability. There's also a retainer to keep the harness and belay device properly oriented while you belay.

  • Belay set pairs Edelrid's lightest device with a durable locker
  • Thumbloop adjusts assisted-braking device's high friction
  • Screw gate locking carabiner with device retainer and steel insert
  • Item #ELR003Y

Belay Device Weight
Locking Carbiner Major Axis Strength
Locking Carbiner Minor Axis Strength
Locking Carbiner Open Gate Strength
Locking Carbiner Shape
Locking Carbiner Weight
Recommended Use
Manufacturer Warranty

Tech Specs

What do you think about this product?


>Rating: 5

One device to rule them ALL!!

I've put it through the wringer

Hands down the best all around belay device in my opinion. It's basically a combination of an ATC, Guide, and a Gri Gri all in one, but at a fraction of the weight and way more durability! Super light weight (65g) and stainless steel so it doesn’t wear out like aluminum devices. Also, it doesn't heat up as much while rappelling or lowering. I used to burn through a reverso every season and a gri every couple years. And usually more than one HMS belay biner per season... Been using my megajul for over 4 years now with no sign of wear! And I've started using it with this HMS Bulletproof biner with it the past 2 years and it's barely seen any signs of wear! (see attached photo) It also doesn’t get your rope as dirty since there’s no anodized coating to wear off into your rope. Especially when used with this bulletproof belay biner. And even more so if you use the bulletproof quickdraws as well! Not to mention the environmental aspect of not needing to replace these items nearly as frequently. These really are built to last! The brake assist works great, especially on ropes 9.5mm and under. Pays out effortlessly but locks up reliably when you need it. Also works great in guide mode, again better with a smaller diameter rope. Extremely versatile with the ability to rappel in regular mode like a classic atc, and also in brake assist mode which is super helpful when cleaning a route, untangling ropes while on rappel, or working on a stuck piece of gear. Like any new tool or piece of equipment, it took a short while to get used to using. But now I am completely sold and have been for years. I use mine for everything from single pitch sport cragging to ground up big wall FAs. It has replaced all my other belay device needs since it does it all! Can’t say enough how much I love my megajul!

>Rating: 5

Best belay device you'll ever use

I've put it through the wringer

This is my favorite belay device (and it's not too shabby for rappels either once you get used to it) and I own it in all 3 models haha (mega, micro, and sport). The updated carabiner that this package comes with is fantastic since they added the stainless steel to the high friction areas. I love the latch to keep the carabiner still from cross-loading too. I recommend this to everyone and love seeing people switch from the GriGri to this guy. It's lightweight, durable, matches a wide range of ropes and has no moving parts. I especially recommend this to newbies who are looking for the added peace of mind of an assisted breaking (please note I did NOT say auto-locking, please be safe and alert and control your brake strand ALWAYS when belaying/rappelling). Newer climbers tend to make a lot of mistakes with GriGris or other assisted breaking devices with moving parts. Whereas this guy works just like an ATC and encourages better belay habits! The way to lower can take a bit to get used to but once you've got it, then this thing is bomber. And it's by far the easiest lead belay device I've ever used. I have a tendency to shortchange my lead climber with other assisted breaking devices. Do yourself a favor and try this guy out!

>Rating: 5

A Match In Heaven

I've put it through the wringer

This thing checks all the boxes for Single Pitch, Multipitch, Alpine, Desert Towers, Ski Mountaineering, Ice Climbing.. you get the picture. It is incredibly lightweight, works as an assisted braking device, has an easy set up for Guide Mode, and is much more favorable to an ATC for rappelling. The combo of the Mega Jul and the HMS Bulletproof (switched out the Screwgate for the Tri-lock carabiner) is pushing me to put my GriGri on the shelf and not look back.

>Rating: 5

No brainer Assisted Braking Belay Device

I've put it through the wringer

Being incredibly lightweight, no moving parts, and very easy to use, the Mega Jul is my new belay device of choice. It can be used in a gym, for Sport, Trad, and Multi-pitches with ease. Suitable for 7.8 - 10.5 mm ropes you won't have issues matching it to your existing rope or those in the gym either. Its great for those who are just learning how to lead belay as it's easier to feed rope than with a GriGri and it's perfect for more advanced climbers as you can use it with multiple ropes and for belaying from above as well. Questions on it? Send me an email or give me a call.


I just bought the Mammut Serenity 8.7 to use as a single rope, and I'm wondering whether to get the Micro Jul or the Mega Jul. By the numbers, it should work with either device. It's right at the top of what the Micro is rated for, and right near the bottom of what the Mega is rated for. Any recommendations?

Hello, I'd go with the larger size to ensure that your rope feeds through it more smoothly.