Mega Jul Belay Kit
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Mega Jul Belay Kit
Out of all the assisted-braking belay devices and carabiners, Edelrid's Mega Jul Belay Kit is probably the most practical option for multi-pitches and alpine approaches, especially if there are rappels involved. Most assisted-braking devices only allow one strand of the climbing rope, and out of the rest this Mega Jul is one of the lightest and most compact. The Mega Jul's clever design pinches the rope tight when it rushes through the device too quickly, and the thumb helps you regulate the brake's friction. Nothing wears out carabiners like a lot of rappelling, which is why Edelrid integrated a steel insert in the HMS Bulletproof Screw FG Locking Carabiner for longer lasting durability. There's also a retainer to keep the harness and belay device properly oriented while you belay.
Details
- Belay set pairs Edelrid's lightest device with a durable locker
- Thumbloop adjusts assisted-braking device's high friction
- Screw gate locking carabiner with device retainer and steel insert
- Item #ELR003Y
- Belay Device Weight
- 2.3oz
- Locking Carbiner Major Axis Strength
- 23kN
- Locking Carbiner Minor Axis Strength
- 8kN
- Locking Carbiner Open Gate Strength
- 8kN
- Locking Carbiner Shape
- offset-D
- Locking Carbiner Weight
- 3oz
- Recommended Use
- climbing
- Manufacturer Warranty
- limited
Reviews
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Overall Rating
4 based on 1 ratings
Review Summary
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Selecting an option will reload the available reviews on the pageJanuary 18, 2022
The little ATC that could
The MegaJul is an ATC on roids, with passive braking built in. I've used one for about a year, year and a half, and finally parked mine. The pros are the lightweight, small package, passive braking ATC format. For lead belaying, this is hands down my favorite option. The con, on the other hand, is Top rope belay is a pain, and I found myself packing a Madrock Lifeguard for Top Rope belay. Because of the design, you have to exert constant pressure on the device to release it during the lower on top rope. This is fine for a couple of routes, but when you're doing a lot of that throughout the day, be it on a project or at the gym, I got to where I was carrying two devices. There's also the confusion on using it with Multi-pitch, which I have not done myself, and probably wouldn't use this for anyways. Edelrid has released other options a little more suited for that. For straight single-pitch lead belay, this is a great option. If you plan to do several top rope belays, the constant effort of cranking the belay to release will get old. It's definitely not a gym belay for that reason. Instead of carrying two, I've just switched to my other braking option and use it exclusively. If you're almost strictly lead climbing, this is the best. Start mixing it up and there are other options I think.
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