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  • Edelrid - Mega Jul Belay Device - Slate

Edelrid Mega Jul Belay Device

$39.95

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    • Slate, One Size
      $39.95

    4.5532

    32 Reviews

    Details

    The Mega Jul for mega-convenient belays.

    Use the versatile Edelrid Mega Jul Belay Device for belaying lead climbers, belaying a second or third follower from the anchor, lowering top-rope climbers from the anchor, rappelling, or abseiling. The assisted braking thumb loop (the colored, covered section) gives you more control when you're lowering or rappelling. The large steel loop on top attaches to anchors so the device can lock up without your brake hand—drink some water, enjoy the sights, or manage your rope while your second (or third) top-ropes to you. Edelrid also added a small eyelet so you can lower your top rope climbers directly from the anchors.

    • Stainless steel
    • Assisted braking thumb loop
    • Self-locking compatibility for anchor belays
    • Small eyelet
    • Item #ELR000K

    Tech Specs

    Material
    stainless steel
    Rope Diameter
    7.8 - 10.5 mm
    Claimed Weight
    2.3 oz
    Recommended Use
    sport, big wall, trad, multipitch

    Tech Specs

    • Reviews
    • Q & A

    What do you think about this product?

    Have questions about this product?

    Give it Some Time

    • Familiarity: I've used it several times

    Had this a couple months. Paired this with the Edelrid Bulletproof locker. Love the combo. I wanted an ATC that had auto brake - I climb with kids and I like any added safety features. Also like lightweight, no moving parts to jam, rappel-capable, durable.
    There’s a learning curve for lead belaying but I’m managing. LOVE rapping with this guy... I left it facing as if I were belaying and I can just pull up on the thumb hook with my right hand and lower, using my left as a backup brake.
    All in all, will use exclusively until it reaches end-of-life.

    Edelrid Mega Jul

    • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

    Have been using this as my primary belay device since March, about seven months now, climbing at least three times a week. Having put a few thousand meters of rope through my Mega Jul, I can say with certainty that I prefer it to the more common ATC guides and topdown-capable counterparts. I was unsure about the assisted braking feature but was pleasantly surprised to find that it worked well when needed yet still did not hinder lead belaying. Beating able to turn the device around to disable the assisted braking feature is also a plus for rappelling. Feeds cleanly and catches well, but so does every belay device these days. Furthermore, the top down mode is a bit of a pain to figure out if you've been previously hardwired to an ATC setup, but does the job perfectly and had become instinctual after 15-20 leads. Lastly, I do appreciate the steel tube design and the durability it lends, as a young guy I don’t mind packing a few more grams to avoid paying for another device next season. Altogether a well designed, durable device which offers a minor performance modification to the renowned ATC guide format.

    High quality

    • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

    My local gym has started requiring assisted braking devices for lead belaying and I have been using a grigri 1 just because I already had it. However, I have some trouble feeding slack with assisted braking devices and though I understand the safety side, dislike the rule for leading. The Mega Jul lets me belay safely, but also feel like I can give slack at a moment's notice, even on most thicker ropes if I need to. Lowers is a trick to figure out at first, but gets better with practice

    mega

      I purchased this after my grigri did a disappearing act because of three reasons: The price, it is less than half the price of a grigri. The weight, it's like 100th the weight. You can rappel with this thing unlike the grigri.
      When picking auto-blocking devices it's a toss up on what you care about and as of now those things were the most important to me. A lot of people have the exposure to a grigri and feel comfortable with them but I think if this thing gains traction it will become as popular because it is way more familiar (familiar as in tube style devices) than other styles of auto-blockers. I love this thing it works as advertised. The only thing I have to keep in mind is it does a lot better job of not slipping when blocked when the rope is in the slot of the device closest to the spine of your bleay carabiner.

      Favorite belay device

      • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

      Takes a bit to get used to lead belaying with this. Expect to short rope your belayer until you get the hang of it. It's the simplicity of an atc with added assisted breaking. Can't beat how lightweight it is for multipitch climbing. Gives myself and partner confidence on climbs with potential rockfall.

      Best Assisted Braking Belay device

      • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

      Being incredibly lightweight, no moving parts, and very easy to use, the Mega Jul is my new assisted braking belay device of choice. It can be used in a gym, for Sport, Trad, and Multi-pitches with ease. Suitable for 7.8 - 10.5 mm ropes you won't have issues matching it to your existing rope or those in the gym either. Its great for those who are just learning how to lead belay as it's easier to feed rope than with a GriGri and it's perfect for more advanced climbers as you can use it with multiple ropes and for belaying from above as well. I'd highly recommend using a biner with a keeper such as the Edelrid HMS Bulletproof Screw FG Locking Carabiner to prevent cross loading.

      I'll never go back to a guide

      • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

      Was a pretty faithful BD-ATC guide user until I tried this out. It's a much better product and I'll never go back. I turn mine backwards for a softer (but not as safe) rappel.

      Lightweight Assisted Braking

      • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

      I've used several assisted braking devices, and this is hands down my favorite. It's lightweight, intuitive, effective, and inexpensive.

      Pros:
      – Highly versatile: accepts a wide range of rope diameters. On a side note: this thing seems to love Sterling ropes. I've never felt such smooth rope handling from an ABD.
      – Lightweight: In material terms, this is more or less just an ATC. It weighs exactly the same as the BD ATC.
      – Easy to Use: Yeah, it looks confusing/daunting when you first throw it on your belay loop, but it immediately makes sense when you use it.
      – Effective: Cue humility. This saved my climber and my bacon when I lost my footing and my hand came off the brake, simultaneously when my climber was taking a fall. We as climbers back up everything else—it just makes sense to have an ABD as a backup when belaying.

      Cons
      – Finesse Required: When first using this device, you have to learn the finesse when lowering. There's not a lot of modulation between fully braked and fully open. It takes a little bit to learn the sweet spot, and you have to relearn with each new rope
      – Thumb loop poorly molded: This is just a minor nag. The seam on the plastic where the two molds come together is not clean. I just took a very high grit sandpaper to it momentarily to smooth things out.
      – Definitely needs a belay 'biner with a keeper, as it is eager to flip or get cross-loaded. I pair it with the Edelrid HMS Strike Slider FG, and they are quite happy together.

      I highly recommend this device. If you're in the market for an ABD, give this guy a shot. You don't need to break the bank to have a top-quality ABD. I guarantee you, once you start using this device, you'll throw out everything else but your spare ATC.

      *Sport and trad climber, climbing 5.11a on sport and use this device 3-4 times a week.

      So Impressed.

      • Familiarity: I've used it several times

      Light Weight ATC - Check!

      Guide Mode - Check!

      Autolocking - Check!

      Affordable - Check!

      and my favorite aspect.... Smooth lead belay - Check!



      This is a brilliant piece of technology. Once you know how to hold it properly, it's actually very intuitive. This does everything you want and need it to do. and on top of that, it's lightweight and inexpensive.



      My favorite aspect was how easy it is to feed the rope, while leading. Often you can't hear or see the climber, so you have to be able to feed rope quickly, without warning. This device makes it really easy to respond quickly and feed rope smoothly. It's a must have.

      So Impressed.

      This is it!

      • Familiarity: I've used it several times

      I've been using a reverso and gri-gri for the last few years, but that's about to change. I was given the opportunity to demo Edelrid's Mega Jul over the weekend, and I'm sold!

      The Mega Jul provides the locking capabilities of the gri-gri with the weight of an atc or reverso. It took a moment to get used to belaying with the device, but after a couple of climbs I found it to be very intuitive.

      I did notice that lowering my climber was a little slower, but I think the benefits of the Mega Jul are well worth it!

      Quiver killer

        I've used almost every belay device out there from high friction single strand atc's to grigri's and the mega jul is now my one stop shop quiver killer. I'd previously settled on a grigri for most belaying (keeps my partner happy) and I carry a reverso for multis and rappelling off singles. I've had several times when cleaning a single pitch where I'm at the anchors and having a moment where I wasn't sure which device I'd brought up with me. I'm massively impressed by the mega Jul. It locks reliably on a leader fall (even tested it with tons of slack on the belay hand with a light climber on a mellow fall and it only took 6" or so before locking) and is super easy to rappel or belay a follower. I even feel super comfortable hanging off it cleaning routes (in locking mode). My wife did find it a bit hard to lower me off (takes some active lifting on the handle) but I find it really easy and intuitive. For me this is now my go to belay device and replaces the several hundred $ in other devices that now sit in my gear closet. 100% recommended.

        Lots of promise, but not quite there

        • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

        For general cragging or gym use with medium to fat ropes I highly recommend the Jul 2 over the mega jul. I used the mega jul as my primary device through the summer of 15 and spring of 2016. In theory it's great, but I found too many compromises in real world use. If you typically use a medium rope in the 9.4 to 9.6 range it's ok. Some downsides:

        * It only works best when paired with the correct carabiner profile. It truly does work best with Edelrid's Strike HMS biners BD vapor was too narrow to pinch skinny ropes enough. Petzl Attache locked and paid out slack well, but made for a jerky lower.

        * Listed rope range is beyond optimistic, 9.2-9.8 is more realistic. Paying out slack with a 10.2 gym rope is a bear, it does not perform well with fat ropes at all. Even using a 9.8 rope to lead belay there is quite a bit of drag if you need to pay out quickly for a high clip (much more than a grigri). On the other side of the spectrum, I took a fall using 8mm half ropes with only one rope loaded. My belayers hand was pulled into the device, it provided minimal assistance. An ATC or reverso with 2 biners provides much more braking power with half ropes.

        * Rappelling in "auto lock" mode is a joke. Even using a biner to open the device. I tried with different ropes on many occasions. There simply was no way to get a smooth rappel, herky jerky was the name of the game. I gave up and would just use it flipped to rappel, negating one of the selling points.

        * Guide mode sucks. Paired with a fully round stock biner (metolius element) there was still a lot of drag pulling rope through. A reverso, ATC guide, or kong gigi (my favorite) pull MUCH smoother and can let you just pull on the brake strand to take in slack. I had to pull up slack on the climber side so that I could pull through the brake strand with the megajul, negating the benefit of guide mode (having a hand free to eat, drink, check beta, etc.). Using the I beam style Edelrid strike biner drag in guide mode is even worse. You can bring a round biner for the rope and use the strike to attach the megajul to your master point, but make sure you hang the device off the narrow end of the biner so you don't scar the rope bearing surface.

        * Brake assist is limited. For normal length sport and trad lead falls it is more than enough (belayer will need to apply only minimal force, device does most of the work). When the fall forces go up in a longer fall it seems that the rope flattens more, the amount of assistance doesn't go up, belayer will have to still grip the rope firmly. It's not like a grigri in this respect.

        With these downsides the mega jul hasn't been out of my gear closet in months. I started using a jul 2 for cragging with medium size ropes and an ATC guide for my multi pitch/alpine routes. I also use a grigri for climbing with skinny singles.

        Awesome Belay Device

        • Familiarity: I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions

        I love this belay device. I had a sketchy catch while lead belaying my friend with an ATC, so I decided to invest in something safer. The Mega Jul is a third of the price of a Gri Gri, and it is much smoother. I highly recommend this device for someone looking for a safer alternative to an ATC.

        Great belay device

        • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

        I bought this item cause I often belay heavy climbers while they lead (20 KG above my weight).
        I looked for an affordable locking device that will be versatile and light weight.
        It does the job great.
        I do need to add, that you need some practice while using it especially when you need to belay close without give lots of slack.

        It's easy to release the lock even on hard falls.
        I do feel much more confident now.

        Don't want to use anything else

        • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

        My brother's review:

        This device paired well with the edelrid 8.9 mm swift dry climbing rope. It took a bit of getting use to for rappelling and top belaying but once I applied some repetition to its various belay settings I became very comfortable with it and don’t want to use anything else. It’s the lightest device I’ve ever used and the auto locking against the locking carabiner is amazing. It’s still not a hands free device but few belay devise are. The auto lock does add protection that you can’t otherwise find with an ATC or most standard belay devices. It always worked appropriately. Definitely watch the youtube videos on how to use it in all the settings and put it to practice in a safe setting. It also can’t be paired with just any locking carabiner so be sure to buy the correct equipment. I’d recommend this to any experienced climber. Not for novice use or general rappelling.

        Too much hassle

        • Familiarity: I've used it several times

        Taking climbing courses, one of my instructors was constantly talking about the benifits of the Mega Jul. "It can belay from the anchor! It can lock down on itself! It can tell you when to propose to your girlfriend! It opens beer bottles!" With such shining praise of the product, I thought I would have to get one to complete my setup, especially to say I had a better device than that simple, trashy ATC.
        When I first got it, I thought, "wow, this thing is shiny. It must work well! Wait, how do I use this thing?" Thus began my consternation with the Mega Jul. After a practice session off my balcony, watching the instruction videos multiple times, and some additional practice in the gym, I finally figured out how to properly use this device. However, that's not when the difficulties ended.
        Not only is it not quite straightforward to figure out how to best use the device, the device is somewhat finicky. Sure, it grips hard on the rope, but how do you get it to release? Sure, you got the device to release the rope, but how do you give a consistent lower speed to your climber? Sure, you opened the bottle, but how do you get those glass shards out of your beer? Tough questions, I am sure.
        The Mega Jul is a good device. It locks tight, it can belay from the anchor, and it is light. However, it has numerous downsides. If you are belaying a lead climber, an ATC Guide would be better, as it can release the rope more quickly, allowing you to play out slack for bolts, pro placement, or climbing. I actually use my ATC (gasp!) instead because it is more responsive than the Mega Jul. Additionally, since the Mega Jul locks down tight when it halts a fall, it makes me wonder how soft of a catch you could get with the device. Also, when the rope gets wet, the rope feeds poorly through the device, which makes for an inconsistent lower to the climber, causing difficulties when descending roofs.
        I wish I could say that I would give this to friends belaying me who are new to climbing. However, the device is so particular that I wouldn't trust a noob to not drop me with this thing. As such, it doesn't even have the same benefits as the Gri Gri.
        So what exactly do I use this device for? Gym climbing. Yes, that not-as-fun-as-the-real-thing workout which is gym climbing is the only time I prefer this device over my ATC. If I don't have to worry about wet rope, if there is no lead climbing, and if I may be using the device a lot, I use my Mega Jul. The only benefit of the Mega Jul over the ATC guide is that it is easier on my delicate brake hand. If I need to give one of my top-of-the-line belays, I just use my ATC, as the Mega Jul is just too much of a hassle to use.

        Wanted it to be great...

        • Familiarity: I've used it several times

        It's a sweet device that autolocks, but...

        Cons:
        -It gets way to hot! Like serious burns on your hands.
        -It is finicky and stubborn, especially if you let others use it for there first time. If you give this to a newbie for lead belay, expect to fight a tight rope.
        -Pretty slow on repel.

        Pros:
        -Did I mention it's safe...
        -It can be used in guide mode.
        -It looks cool!

        My long route belay device of choice

        • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

        It takes some time to get familiar with MegaJul but it definitely worth it.

        Some tips and tricks:

        1. Watch official Edelrid video and read the instruction. Do it several times.

        2. Use Edelerid HMS Strike locker with MegaJul (and Jul2 as well).

        3. Do not rappel in ATC mode if you can miss the next station. It is almost impossible to ascend the rope with MegaJul in this mode (it will lock for an obvious reason).

        4. Do learn MegaJul rappelling in autoblock mode. Use Edelrid Pure or Petzl Spirit binner as a lever. It is smooth, fast, and safe... only after a proper training.

        5. It is better to use a glove with MegaJul on rappels.

        6. It works not that great with stiffer thicker ropes.

        Overall this is a great device for long trad and technical alpine routes. Very smooth when belaying your follower(s) from an anchor. Easy and safe lowering off. Safe and smooth (training needed! Steep learning curve) rappels. Easy to operate with both left and right hands.

        Bottom line. My belay device of choice on long routes.