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DMM Alloy Offset Set #7-11

$74.95

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  • Offset, 11-Jul
    $74.95

Alloy Offset Set #7-11

This set of DMM Offsets gives you the versatility to protect flaring crack pitches that would otherwise warrant a serious runout. Ideal for both trad and aid climbing, DMM Offsets seat securely in places where regular nuts and cams just won't work. With these anodized aluminum nuts on your rack, previously un-protected stretches of rock become a cakewalk.
  • Set of five offset stoppers for trad climbing
  • Offset shape fits in irregular cracks and pin scars
  • Anodized for color-coded convenience
  • Item #DMM0025

Material
aluminum alloy
Strength
12 kN
Claimed Weight
[7] 1.1oz, [8] 1.2oz, [9] 1.3oz, [10] 1.5oz, [11] 1.9oz
Recommended Use
trad climbing
Manufacturer Warranty
1 year

Tech Specs

What do you think about this product?

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>Rating: 5

Hands Down, Best Offsets

Familiarity:
I've used it several times
Fit:
True to size
Height
6` 3"
Weight
185 lbs

As great as DMM Wallnuts are, I tend to go for the offsets for every placement. My 8, 9, and 10's are critical to my rack and if there were a Wallnut 10 and 11 size offset, I'd be doubling on those. These offsets can find just the about anywhere to place with confidence. It's my belief that every other company should stand down and let DMM continue taking the lead alone on nuts, and focus on specializing in their own niches so everyone everywhere knows that these are THE definition of stopper/nuts. No one can compete with DMM's quality and design here.

>Rating: 5

Epitome of Passive Pro

Familiarity:
I've put it through the wringer

I place at least one of these bad boys on every pitch of climbing I do. Solid shape fits in flaring cracks well. Confidence inspiring. Even people who don't climb should buy them because they are a work of art.

>Rating: 5

My Go-To Nuts

Familiarity:
I've put it through the wringer
Fit:
True to size

I had a rack of these, loved them - and now carry doubles of them when I'm doing long pitches, or ones that I know eat up passive pro.

>Rating: 5

The heart and soul to any rack

Familiarity:
I've put it through the wringer

These nuts are magic. They slide in spots where no other pro will go, more often than not I place these guys way more than normal nuts. If you're on the fence about buying these guys and climb a decent amount, buy em. You won't regret it.

Do they come with a carabiner or I have to buy one?

>Rating: 5

When A Bootied Nut Becomes Your Go-To

Familiarity:
I've used it several times

I chiseled out a #9 (Red) DMM Offset nut out of a crack that someone had left behind. Just another piece of booty gear at the time, it went on my rack of nuts. Then I started placing it... consistently, for the rest of the season. So I ordered my own set! Stoked. Flares and weird places, these just make a more secure placement than regular nuts. Thank you to whoever bailed off that nut and opened up my world, I'll try to pay it forward. I've used them in mostly western granite, but I foresee these being handy in some southern sandstone as well.

>Rating: 5

Don't blow your nut!

Familiarity:
I've put it through the wringer

These things are BOMBER! By far my favorite nut to place. Truly confidence inspiring!

>Rating: 5

Buy them, Do it!!

Familiarity:
I've used it several times

I climb mostly granite and quartzite out here in SLC, UT and I have found these to be the easiest to place over my BD stoppers, they fit so well in flares and weird spots were nothing else will, and they are rated to 12 kN so they are super strong!

>Rating: 5

Primo Passives

Familiarity:
I've used it several times

I'm not sure if I can say much that hasn't already been said. But any product that can have such a unanimous decision on just how awesome they are can't be wrong. Look through the rest of our page and you will see there are very few product that get such a consistent consensus of awesomeness. Again, these are great for flares and odd placement where regular nuts or active pro just won't protect. They are light and are a great addition to any budding or experienced climber alike. Pick them up and soon you will realize what all the hype is about.

>Rating: 5

An essential to a full rack

Familiarity:
I've put it through the wringer

I climb mostly granite and find myself placing these guys just as often as regular stoppers.

>Rating: 5

Excellent compliment to a standard rack

Familiarity:
I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions

I currently have a double rack with dmm wallnuts and I decided that these would be the first branching out into a wider range of protection. Oh my what a wonderful purchase! They compliment the dmm wallnuts perfectly covering flaring finger placements. I was in an area that required both regular nuts and offsets on my first outing with them and saw the benefit immediately. They are able to protect in non-standard placements with outward or downward flares, pinscars, as well as in constrictions containing inward flares (place the nut backwards). One of the biggest pros is their ability to be placed and still allow room for finger jams. Definitely held up when a rainstorm poured down on me and they became my primarily protection over cams.

>Rating: 5

Won't come out.

Familiarity:
I've put it through the wringer

From my experience so far, you should get these or the standard chocks, but you mostly won't need both. These won't come out of the best set placements. Tap away!

>Rating: 5

Offsets are better.

Familiarity:
I've put it through the wringer

If you climb on granite, you need these. Actually, if you climb trad at all, you need these. I often find myself reaching for my offsets before my wallnuts; I usually get a better placement with these. Great for flaring placements or in pin scars, but they work in a lot of other situations as well! pIck some up today!

>Rating: 5

Great addition

Familiarity:
I've used it several times

After previously owning BD nuts, I find myself going for these first now, especially in Little Cottonwood Canyon where flares are everywhere

>Rating: 5

Not a specialty piece

Familiarity:
I've used it several times

absolute must in Yosemite. I have BD stoppers, which are fine, but these give me just a bit more peace of mind when starting in on any kind of runout.

>Rating: 5

Awesome Nuts!

Familiarity:
I've used it several times

These are a fantastic addition to any set of stoppers. I primarily place my regular Wallnuts, but these are made for those weird flared cracks and pods where nothing else inspires confidence. Even if you don't come across any placements like that, they double up in the most useful sizes and can be used in nearly all of the same placements as regular Wallnuts. If you place a lot nuts, these are definitely worth it!

>Rating: 5

BEST OUT THERE

Familiarity:
I've used it several times

These are the best nuts. Bought this and paired with a set of the DMM Peenut No. 1-5 and I've never touched my pro set of BD stoppers again. Learn to place them and you can use them for common and offset placements. Featherweight and superior function.

Thanks for the review Gabriel! Super helpful to get this feedback out to the community.

>Rating: 5

Love them

If you climb granite, get them. They are awesome for any flaring cracks or weird constrictions. I was not huge on passive in little cottonwood until I got these. Pair them with the peenuts to feel good on granite

>Rating: 5

Bomber in tricky spots

Familiarity:
I've used it several times

Whenever I climb in Yosemite or Joshua Tree, I'm always grabbing these over my normal set of nuts. The offset shape just fits so well in those flared cracks. These guys make tricky placements bomber. You'll be using these so often that you'll be tempted to get a second set. Many of the other reviewers will agree, just get them! You will not be disappointed.

>Rating: 5

How are they this good?

Familiarity:
I've used it several times

I trad climb in the Sandias outside of ABQ mostly. Before I got these, I was taking normal BD nuts up with me, which did get placed sometimes, but always unsatisfactorily. Then I got these, and they fit EVERYWHERE. They make improbable placements bomber. They fit the little pods and flares that constitute Sandias trad so well that I almost want two sets for longer climbs. For me, they are really-confidence-inspiring and easy-to-place passive pro, which is a godsend for a relative novice.

>Rating: 5

Great nuts

Familiarity:
I've used it several times

These fit like a glove where other nuts are a little finicky. Easy to place and set. Great addition to my rack. I climb at the Gunks and these are invaluable.

>Rating:

Do the Black Diamond micro offset sizes...

Do the Black Diamond micro offset sizes #1-6 match up with these? As I am not interested in the DMM brass if I don't have to be. I asked this on the BD micro offset page but figured I'd get a better answer here.

Dan, Yes, the DMM Offset Set #7-11 will pair up nicely with the Black Diamond micro offset sizes #1-6 for a full set.

>Rating:

Are offset nuts only good for flaring...

Are offset nuts only good for flaring cracks and piton scars? I am a new leader trying to decide what nuts to get. I've narrowed my two options down to either a full set of Wallnuts from 1-11 or a set of Offset nuts from 7-11 with a set of Wallnuts from 1-6. Can the Offset nuts completely replace that range of Wallnuts on my rack? Thanks

Gear is a personal preference thing, so you'll surely get a lot of different answers depending on who you ask. For general use, I'd just get the Wallnuts, and later supplement with the Offset nuts. I actually find that I use smaller nuts more often, so your best bet might be getting the 11 Wallnuts, and later supplementing with the smaller Brass offset nuts for tricky thin placements. Another option might be to lead on a friends rack, and see what works for you. This is really the fastest and cheapest way to learn your preferences if you can find someone to climb with.

As a rule, you want to get as much of the nut surface in contact with the rock as possible. Offsets are great because they do this in flaring crack where a standard nut would only have a couple corners in contact. In a non-flaring, crack, though, it's the opposite, and the offset isn't going to get as much contact as a standard nut. Thus they each have their place. The right answer really depends on where and what you climb. FWIW, I use the larger BD non-offset nuts quite a bit in and around Boulder. Having bought a couple sets and gained some experience, I recommend not buying sets at all. Rather, beg, borrow, and buy used (with a good inspection of course) a wide variety of passive pieces and then see what you like and don't like, what works, etc., then go out and buy what you've decided you need. You don't want to be blindly carrying sets. Rather, you should be selecting individual passive pieces based on what you expect for the climb.

>Rating:

Do these just start at 7 and go up to 11,...

Do these just start at 7 and go up to 11, or are there a 1 - 6? The page listing them individually only lists 7 to 11 as well. Are the smaller sizes in offsets just much less useful?

DMM bought the molds for these nuts from HB a few years back...sizes 1 - 6 were the brass offsets, and I don't see them any where on line on bc.com. You could supplement these nuts with the peenuts, sizes 1-5, and you would be well set up for any flaring crack or pin scar.

It's been a while since Evan's comment, but now the DMM brass offsets are offered on BC. So now you can get #0-6 in brass and #7-11 in aluminum. Happy climbing.