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  • DMM - Alloy Offset Set #7-11 - Offset

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  • DMM - Alloy Offset Set #7-11 - Offset

DMM Alloy Offset Set #7-11

$69.95

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    • Offset, 7-11
      $69.95
    5557

    57 Reviews

    Details

    Save your arse from the big ride.

    This set of DMM Offsets gives you the versatility to protect flaring crack pitches that would otherwise warrant a serious runout. Ideal for both trad and aid climbing, DMM Offsets seat securely in places where regular nuts and cams just won't work. With these anodized aluminum nuts on your rack, previously un-protected stretches of rock become a cakewalk.
    • Item #DMM0025

    Tech Specs

    Material
    aluminum alloy
    Strength
    12 kN
    Claimed Weight
    [7] 1.1 oz, [8] 1.2 oz, [9] 1.3 oz, [10] 1.5 oz, [11] 1.9 oz
    Recommended Use
    crack climbing, aid climbing
    Manufacturer Warranty
    1 year

    Tech Specs

    • Reviews
    • Q & A

    What do you think about this product?

    Have questions about this product?

    Primo Passives

    • Familiarity: I've used it several times

    I'm not sure if I can say much that hasn't already been said. But any product that can have such a unanimous decision on just how awesome they are can't be wrong. Look through the rest of our page and you will see there are very few product that get such a consistent consensus of awesomeness. Again, these are great for flares and odd placement where regular nuts or active pro just won't protect. They are light and are a great addition to any budding or experienced climber alike. Pick them up and soon you will realize what all the hype is about.

    Excellent compliment to a standard rack

    • Familiarity: I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions

    I currently have a double rack with dmm wallnuts and I decided that these would be the first branching out into a wider range of protection. Oh my what a wonderful purchase! They compliment the dmm wallnuts perfectly covering flaring finger placements. I was in an area that required both regular nuts and offsets on my first outing with them and saw the benefit immediately. They are able to protect in non-standard placements with outward or downward flares, pinscars, as well as in constrictions containing inward flares (place the nut backwards). One of the biggest pros is their ability to be placed and still allow room for finger jams. Definitely held up when a rainstorm poured down on me and they became my primarily protection over cams.

    Won't come out.

    • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

    From my experience so far, you should get these or the standard chocks, but you mostly won't need both. These won't come out of the best set placements. Tap away!

    Offsets are better.

    • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

    If you climb on granite, you need these. Actually, if you climb trad at all, you need these. I often find myself reaching for my offsets before my wallnuts; I usually get a better placement with these. Great for flaring placements or in pin scars, but they work in a lot of other situations as well! pIck some up today!

    Not a specialty piece

    • Familiarity: I've used it several times

    absolute must in Yosemite. I have BD stoppers, which are fine, but these give me just a bit more peace of mind when starting in on any kind of runout.

    Awesome Nuts!

    • Familiarity: I've used it several times

    These are a fantastic addition to any set of stoppers. I primarily place my regular Wallnuts, but these are made for those weird flared cracks and pods where nothing else inspires confidence. Even if you don't come across any placements like that, they double up in the most useful sizes and can be used in nearly all of the same placements as regular Wallnuts. If you place a lot nuts, these are definitely worth it!

    BEST OUT THERE

    • Familiarity: I've used it several times

    These are the best nuts. Bought this and paired with a set of the DMM Peenut No. 1-5 and I've never touched my pro set of BD stoppers again. Learn to place them and you can use them for common and offset placements. Featherweight and superior function.

    Love them

      If you climb granite, get them. They are awesome for any flaring cracks or weird constrictions. I was not huge on passive in little cottonwood until I got these. Pair them with the peenuts to feel good on granite

      Bomber in tricky spots

      • Familiarity: I've used it several times

      Whenever I climb in Yosemite or Joshua Tree, I'm always grabbing these over my normal set of nuts. The offset shape just fits so well in those flared cracks. These guys make tricky placements bomber. You'll be using these so often that you'll be tempted to get a second set. Many of the other reviewers will agree, just get them! You will not be disappointed.

      How are they this good?

      • Familiarity: I've used it several times

      I trad climb in the Sandias outside of ABQ mostly. Before I got these, I was taking normal BD nuts up with me, which did get placed sometimes, but always unsatisfactorily.

      Then I got these, and they fit EVERYWHERE. They make improbable placements bomber. They fit the little pods and flares that constitute Sandias trad so well that I almost want two sets for longer climbs. For me, they are really-confidence-inspiring and easy-to-place passive pro, which is a godsend for a relative novice.

      Great nuts

      • Familiarity: I've used it several times

      These fit like a glove where other nuts are a little finicky. Easy to place and set. Great addition to my rack. I climb at the Gunks and these are invaluable.

      Versatile and Reliable

        I really like these offsets. They seem to fit in a variety of situations and work really well here in the Wasatch. They seem durable and I feel comfortable using them in whatever situation. I would highly recommend these to anyone and everyone.

        Love em

        • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

        These little guys seem to fit so well in pretty much any situation. In particular the cracks in Big Cottonwood take nuts really well, and I am always happier placing cheap, bomber pro than worrying about losing cams.

        Essential rack

          I bring along a selection of traditional stoppers mixed with these offsets. Then I just plug away with ease. They place well, protect well, are durable. Mostly you just climb and they do their job and they never need another thought. Add them to your rack and you double the constrictions that you can protect. DMM is great stuff.

          They Always Seem To Fit

          • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

          These nuts are the first ones I use because I feel like I can always get a good placement with them. I use these the most when I go to Red Rock, but they're great for anywhere with flared cracks.

          Bomber

          • Familiarity: I've used it several times

          I absolutely love these nuts. I have used them on East coast sandstone and West coast granite, and these nuts have had firm purchase on any rock I have put them on. The offset shape lets them be set in awkward placements, and getting them out has not been an issue. Also, the wires have help up well and have not twisted or malformed after being tugged out of the placements. Trust my life with these things.

          Do the Black Diamond micro offset sizes...

          Do the Black Diamond micro offset sizes #1-6 match up with these? As I am not interested in the DMM brass if I don't have to be. I asked this on the BD micro offset page but figured I'd get a better answer here.

          Are offset nuts only good for flaring...

          Are offset nuts only good for flaring cracks and piton scars? I am a new leader trying to decide what nuts to get. I've narrowed my two options down to either a full set of Wallnuts from 1-11 or a set of Offset nuts from 7-11 with a set of Wallnuts from 1-6. Can the Offset nuts completely replace that range of Wallnuts on my rack?

          Thanks

          Best Answer

          Gear is a personal preference thing, so you'll surely get a lot of different answers depending on who you ask. For general use, I'd just get the Wallnuts, and later supplement with the Offset nuts. I actually find that I use smaller nuts more often, so your best bet might be getting the 11 Wallnuts, and later supplementing with the smaller Brass offset nuts for tricky thin placements.

          Another option might be to lead on a friends rack, and see what works for you. This is really the fastest and cheapest way to learn your preferences if you can find someone to climb with.

          As a rule, you want to get as much of the nut surface in contact with the rock as possible. Offsets are great because they do this in flaring crack where a standard nut would only have a couple corners in contact.



          In a non-flaring, crack, though, it's the opposite, and the offset isn't going to get as much contact as a standard nut.



          Thus they each have their place. The right answer really depends on where and what you climb. FWIW, I use the larger BD non-offset nuts quite a bit in and around Boulder.



          Having bought a couple sets and gained some experience, I recommend not buying sets at all. Rather, beg, borrow, and buy used (with a good inspection of course) a wide variety of passive pieces and then see what you like and don't like, what works, etc., then go out and buy what you've decided you need.



          You don't want to be blindly carrying sets. Rather, you should be selecting individual passive pieces based on what you expect for the climb.

          Do these just start at 7 and go up to 11,...

          Do these just start at 7 and go up to 11, or are there a 1 - 6? The page listing them individually only lists 7 to 11 as well. Are the smaller sizes in offsets just much less useful?

          Best Answer

          DMM bought the molds for these nuts from HB a few years back...sizes 1 - 6 were the brass offsets, and I don't see them any where on line on bc.com. You could supplement these nuts with the peenuts, sizes 1-5, and you would be well set up for any flaring crack or pin scar.