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DMM Alpha Trad Carabiner


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Alpha Trad Carabiner

Widely respected in the world of trad climbing, the designers at DMM topped themselves once again when they created the Alpha Trad Carabiner. At just 35 grams and with a minor-axis strength of 24 kN, the Alpha Wire is both ultralight and strong. In typical over-engineering fashion, the folks at DMM ensured that this biner has an open-gate strength rating of 9kN but also preserved a generous 25 millimeters of gate clearance for easy clipping, cleaning, and racking. The top and bottom baskets are slightly deeper than standard carabiners to keep everything in place whether it's webbing from a cam or a stopper's wire.

  • Carabiner constructed specifically for trad climbing
  • I-Beam design rids unnecessary weight without hindering strength
  • Clean nose for snag-free unclipping
  • Deeper baskets secure stopper wires and cam webbing
  • Item #DMM0050

hot-forged aluminum
Gate Type
Major Axis Strength
Minor Axis Strength
Open Gate Strength
Gate Opening
59 x 99mm
Claimed Weight
Manufacturer Warranty

Tech Specs

What do you think about this product?



“DMM Alpha Trad” from DMM Video

The Alpha gives positive handling and easy clipping, with grooves on the spine to provide extra grip. Deep rope baskets help seat gear and ropes, and encourage loading along the Alpha’s strongest axis. A clean nose helps prevent snagging and accidental gate opening. Superb ergonomics and safe design mean the Alpha excels in any climbing environment.

>Rating: 5


Love it. Strong and does its job!

>Rating: 5

Holds my keys

I've used it several times

I'm not a trad climber, yet. This biner holds my keys and is lighter than the one from my hammock. Win/Win.

>Rating: 5

Great Trad 'Biner

A carabiner is a carabiner, right? NOPE! You want it light? Check. You want it to be visually stunning? Check. You want it easy to clip? Check. You want subtle but amazingly engineered? Check! You want something that encourages tangle free slings? Check. Buy the best. Buy 100 of the best and make it rain carabiners on your dirtbag friends at the next campfire. And with this carabiner and a few other DMM 'biners you will probably have a whole crag named in your honor.

>Rating: 4

Great carabiner, but heavy

I've used it several times

Bought this to rack my second set of cams to try something different from BD Oz. Great carabiners, but too heavy. Should have bought the Alpha light.

Just FYI the Alpha Lights are being discontinued, for racking the DMM Chimeras are awesome.

>Rating: 5

The Best

The DMM Alpha Wire is in my opinion the best wire gate biner you can buy. They are light, large fit well in the hand. The spring action of the gate feels right (whatever that means, it just does). The no hook nose helps clipping and un-clipping runners/slings when you are in a hurry and don't want thing to hang up. These are by far my favorites.

>Rating: 5

Awesome Biner

I've used it several times

This biner is well designed, well made, and performs fantastically. I got a couple out of curiosity for a few alpine draws and was amazed at how good it feels in hand. The nose is completely clean and snag free. The only downside here is the price. Like many others have said, I would put my entire rack on these if it wasn't at $15/biner. They are that nice, but you do pay for it. Would highly recommend.

>Rating: 5

Key chain

I've used it several times

I wanted a sweet carabiner to hold my keys Also this will hold me when I have to undo my paracord bracelet and rappel down to safety and possibly save the world Five stars!


I really hope you're joking about rapping on para cord..

>Rating: 5

Very nice full size carabiner

I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions

After a 30 year break in climbing I've recently gotten back into it. While most of my gear was still perfectly safe, I have been modernizing it as I go along. My most recent update was in carabiners. After looking at a lot of carabiners I was getting frustrated trying to find a carabiner that felt nice in my hand. Then one day I came across the DMM Alpha Trad biners and I finally found something that felt right so I pulled the trigger on them. I must say these carabiners are the bomb. While they are expensive, their quality is what I've grown to expect from DMM. They are full size, light weight and very smooth gates. If I need to supplement my rack with more biners, I'll be picking up more of these.

>Rating: 5

Great biners

I've used it several times

I'vebeen able tested out my first sett of DMM alphas several times now and couldn't be happier with them. The gates are very smooth compared to the BD's that i've used in the past.


DMM Video

>Rating: 4

Nice clean nose biner

This is one of the best clean nose biners you can get. DMM quality is top notch for carabiners, and this is no exception. In my opinion it beats any other carabiner out there for providing a clean wire gate with the exception of the DMM Shield. This is nicer than the BD Hoodwire or the Helium, but the Shield benefits from a narrower nose (thanks to the rotated wire) and a better designed kink in the spine, as well as superior ergonomics. One reason I keep these around instead of going all Shields is that the Alpha Trad is available in color packs for trad tacks while the Shield is not. I take a star off on this product only because DMM themselves have produced a mostly-better product in the Shield, but this still is head and shoulders above the options from other manufacturers (except, perhaps, the Ange, which has truly great gate design but poor ergonomics compared to the Alpha Trad).



>Rating: 3

nose width

FYI the nose width is 11.9mm, and nose depth (looking side on) is 10.8mm. That's wider than Shield @ 10.7/10.3mm. That, and kinked spine... Still pondering those for rope end only.

>Rating: 4

good but hard to justify

I've put it through the wringer

I am A HUGE DMM fanboy, and will normally pay just about anything for their stuff. However, these are perhaps a little too pricy. Yes they clip nicely, yes the Clean wire is nice, yes the Asymmetric kinked spine is delicious. However, to put my whole rack on these even at wholesale is murder. Frankly the benefits of Clean Wire for a gear racking biner is negligible. even when slamming cams in on roofs and wandering pictches my second has few issues with notched biners. Mostly because you can just take the cam out first then unclip the pro. I as a leader dont feel its that hard to get a krab of my harness. Applications that it would be useful for is trad draws as thin Dynema can be a pain when doubled. I would if I could buy like 60 of these in colors...but I wouldn't feel good about it.

>Rating: 5

Worth it

I've been adding these to my rack and I have to say that I love them. The build quality is truly incredible, they’re light and oh so easy to handle. The only issue with these is their cost, which may explain why so few retailers carry them. If you’re willing to shell out for them, I’ve found these to be superior to the Petzl Ange L, which has essentially the same cost. Their specs are similar, but the DMM is easier to handle and the build quality is second to none.


Great carabiner, but can you please sell the 'Alpha Light' in singles, like this one?! I don't need the colored rack pack, I only want to buy the gunmetal grey ones for my trad draws. I keep buying them elsewhere because you don't sell them.