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The sophisticated sport climber.
Camp USA calls its Dyon Mixed Express KS Quickdraw the most sophisticated draw for sport climbers who project at high levels. Its Photo carabiner is a burly biner to keep bolt-dinging to a minimum, and the Dyon carabiner features Camp USA's innovative KeyWire gate that combines the snag-free convenience on a keylock nose with the weight-saving lightness of a wire gate. The Photon carabiner's keylock nose is slimmer to minimize play between the gate and nose. The dogbone varies in width to give an ergonomic grip, and its Karstop Evo retainer stabilizes the Dyon carabiner to ease rope-clipping.
- Camp's most sophisticated quickdraw for sport climbing
- Photon carabiner with slimmer SphereLock keylock nose
- Dyon carabiner with unique KeyWire gate for snag-free convenience
- Variable width sling with retainer to stabilize rope carabiner
- Item #CMP006I
- Q & A
A good upgrade from the Photon
Overall, I’m very happy with the performance of this quickdraw and consider it a worthwhile upgrade over the Camp Photon Express. The Mixed Express features Camp’s Dyon carabiner on the rope side which is very easy to clip due to its bent spine and very stiff gate action. The Dyon is also a very lightweight carabiner and the cumulative weight savings across an entire rack is definitely noticeable compared to the Photon Express. The Dyon is also a very strong carabiner boasting an open-gate strength rating of 11KN. While the carabiner would ideally never be loaded in this way, padding the safety margins may provide you some peace of mind if venturing into an alpine environment where jamming due to freezing becomes a possibility.
- Familiarity: I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions
Tested these out on a few sport routes. A really solid dogbone gives you the assurance you want when risking a big whip. A great draw for any sport climber.