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  • Butora - Acro Climbing Shoe - Tight Fit - Blue
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  • Butora - Acro Climbing Shoe - Tight Fit - Blue

Butora Acro Climbing Shoe - Tight Fit

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    • Blue
    4.5511

    11 Reviews

    Details

    Agro in the Acro.

    With an aggressive asymmetry, Butora's Tight Fit Acro Climbing Shoe dominates steep sport routes and technical boulder problems. This downturned shoe provides a slipper-like fit for narrower footed rock warriors (look to the orange Acro if you have wide feet) thanks to the stretchy, padded, mesh tongue and Butora's unique triple fork hook-and-loop strap. The Acro encapsulates your foot in German split-leather for moisture management, and the polyurethane strip works with the extended toe rubber to reduce stretching. The extended toe rubber also assists with toe hooking and the occasion crack climb, if sized slightly looser. Underfoot, the Acro features a 3D injection molded midsole that stays stiff at the downturned toe for a long-lasting agro performance, and it stays slightly softer and the arch and heel to assist in less-overhung routes. Butora shaped the butyl Butora F5 rubber sole with sharp corners for toeing on microscopic crystals and side-stepping imaginary edges. 

    • German split-leather upper
    • Nylon mesh stretch tongue with silicone sponge
    • Extended toe rubber
    • Triple fork hook-and-loop strap
    • 3D injection molded midsole
    • Butyl Butora F5 rubber
    • Item #BTA0002

    Tech Specs

    Upper Material
    German split-leather, [tongue] nylon mesh, silicone sponge
    Closure
    hook-and-loop
    Midsole
    3D injection molded
    Rubber
    butyl Butora F5
    Profile
    downturned
    Asymmetrical Curvature
    aggressive
    Recommended Use
    sport climbing

    Tech Specs

    • Reviews
    • Q & A

    What do you think about this product?

    Have questions about this product?

    Terrible IMHO

    • Familiarity: I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions

    I've only tried this shoe out briefly, but I truly despised it. It felt loose in the front and heel, but constricting around the middle of the foot and tips of toes. I actually tried a few different sizes on but none of them seemed to fit. I'm sure someone out there has the alien feet that fit this shoe perfectly, but it's not me. For reference, I have pretty normal sized, slightly wide feet.

    Great initial impession

    • Familiarity: I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions
    • Fit: Runs small
    • Size Bought: 45
    • Height: 5'10"
    • Weight: 155lbs

    My initial impressions of this shoe are excellent. The rubber is sticky out of the box, and is definitely on the softer side, much like C4. I have a low volume foot and can't even consider wearing almost any 5.10 shoe. My go to in the past was the Sportiva Katana.

    The sizing on these is unlike anything I have used in the past. My street size is an 11.5 (45). For reference, in the Katana Velcro I wear a 42. In the Sportiva Kataki I wear a 42.5. These are a fairly low volume shoe and fit the bill for the "Tight fit". They are not ULTRA low volume, but I have definitely had to purchase women's shoes in the past and there are no such issues here. I purchased a 10 and 10.5 in the Acro and both were way small. I ended up going with my regular street size of 11.5 (45) and it's money. I do not like painful shoes and this size seems to allow plenty of edging power, no bagginess, and a decent vapor lock feel. Butora recommends sizing 1/2 size down fro street size and, for the average user who doesn't mind a tight fit, this should be pretty accurate. Don't be afraid to go right to the street size, though.

    They climb really well out of the box. They are not super aggressive and still allow for some smedging. They are firm through the middle and plant power well. The downturn is just right for me. It has that slight downturn that helps plant power and stick to those holds on overhanging terrain, but they have been very effective on vertical terrain. Definitely not the shoe for slab but well, duh. The toe munches pockets for breakfast.

    I hope they last and, provided they do, I will be a return customer.

    How does this have a five star average?

    • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
    • Fit: True to size
    • Size Bought: 10.5
    • Height: 6'3"
    • Weight: 195lbs

    I'll start with the good.

    1. The rubber is very soft and pretty sticky. It performs very well on plastic.

    2. The shoe is comfortable. It doesn't stretch much, so it's pretty easy to dial-in the sizing right out of the box.



    Now for the bad.

    1. The heel has a lot of volume, which is a nice "cheat" for some heel hooks, but when you need to dig in on that heel or pull your hips into the wall, it isn't confidence inspiring. This is something I've heard from other Butora users, as well, so I don't think my foot shape is the problem. I did hear the Narsha has a better heel.

    2. The rubber sucks. I'm sorry. I hate to be a jerk about it, but it is no stickier than Vibram Grip and it wears out so much faster. I got my latest pair (more on that shortly) in January and, climbing in the gym twice a week and outside a couple of times a month, my edges are gone and the toe points are completely rounded. There's actually now a split in the right toe.

    3. Quality is a huge problem for the Acro. Apparently, this is fairly common knowledge (wished I'd known sooner...). The rubber on my first pair delaminated (see photo) after four months. When I asked Butora to replace them under warranty, their Director of Operations told me they have a 90 day warranty and that I was out of luck. After two weeks of complaining, she finally replaced them, which I would have appreciated more if it hadn't been like pulling teeth to make it happen. On the current shoes, the inside edge of the left shoe is starting to delaminate.



    I really like the idea of supporting smaller climbing companies, so I want to like the Butora Acro. Unfortunately, it just hasn't given me much reason to like it. My last shoe was the Tenaya Tarifa and I got a year and a half out of them on original rubber. So, to have the rubber on these wear out in a few months is pretty unacceptable. Not to mention the reliability issues. Such a bummer.

    How does this have a five star average?

    Great shoe

    • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
    • Fit: True to size
    • Size Bought: 8
    • Height: 5'6"
    • Weight: 120lbs

    I ordered these while my Scarpa Vapors were in for a resole. I've been bouldering and sport climbing in these and they've performed great. I even took them to Tonsai beach in Thailand as the only shoe I brought, and had no regrets-their shape and stickiness held great despite the humidity and salt water. The heel is nice and deep and makes for secure heel hooking. The fore foot fits great out of the box and doesn't stretch much due to the wealth of rubber in that area. The aggressive shape holds well, and the rubber is very sticky. Overall a great shoe for steeper climbing. I ordered my regular street size, and they fit perfectly.

    Would stick on teflon

    • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
    • Fit: Runs small
    • Size Bought: 10.5
    • Height: 5'8"
    • Weight: 150lbs

    My rock climbing experience has so far on consisted of bouldering. In the gym and the rocks alike, I adore-a my Butoras (ha ha ha). I wear size 9.5-10.5 street shoes and bought these in a 10.5 (10 was excruciating). They are totally form-fitting, which is a relief considering the strange dimensions of my feet: low-volume in height but not exactly narrow, with very long toes. For context, I had some success with the Evolv Sparks (size 10). I recently replaced my worn-out Sparks with Anasazi velcros (size 9), which I'm very happy with.

    Pros:
    -The rubber is super sticky. Even when the edges wear off, these things can stick on a dime if you press in with enough power.
    -These things have totally spoiled me on anything noticeably more than vertical.
    -The fit is unique and really makes you feel like you're getting 100% efficiency out of the power you put in, especially in the toe region
    -The rubber placement is generous, helpful with maneuvers such as toehooks, and helps the shoe maintain shape/size.
    -They look sharp, don't stretch out too much, and haven't smelled up at all after 3 months of heavy use

    Cons:
    -My only serious con: the heel is extremely deep. The positive is that my heel actually feels more secured in these than the exceptionally shallow-heeled Anasazi velcros, but the resulting smushy heel makes for timid heel-hooking.
    -These shoes offer almost no support if you're edging on vert or slab, unlike a stiff board-lasted shoe. The last is very flexible under the arch. This might not be a concern for most people buying an aggressive shoe, but there are other shoes (e.g. Blackwings) that have downturn AND a more uniform last.
    -Edges wore off quickly, but that is possibly because of my own sloppy footwork + the cost of sticky rubber

    Also, the liner started detaching from the tongue (this seems to be an anomaly). Butora has excellent customer service and is hooking me up with a brand-new pair under warranty! Great company, great product. Will continue to buy their gear.

    TLDR: Wonderfully specialized for bouldering steep and overhangs. Capable but not optimal for other applications. Good company/customer service solidifies the 5 star rating.

    Amazing shoe

    • Familiarity: I've used it several times
    • Size Bought: US10
    • Height: 5'11"
    • Weight: 178lbs

    Coming from Mira's I'm finally over using anything la sportiva, these shoes are actually comfortable, and best of all the rubber doesn't come off like all my La sports have over the years.
    I ended up going with size 10US and I wear a 9.5US shoe, and they fit perfectly. I use them for mostly sport climbing with a little bouldering.

    The quality of these shoes is awesome, love the interior, it's soft and just feels nice all while keeping your feet snuggly in place. The rubber sticks, and sticks well.

    I have yet to find a complaint other than on/off being a bit of a task at first, but that isn't really a problem to me.

    Great bouldering shoe

    • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
    • Fit: True to size
    • Size Bought: 9.5

    I tried on both the wides and narrows at two separate demos, and even though I'm a guy and have normal-ish width feet, I still went with the narrows.

    These things lock onto your feet and are an absolute weapon. Yes they are very tight across the ball of the foot (these DO NOT stretch, at all) for someone like me, but the precision you get out of the toe is unmatched. When I first got them they were the softest shoe I had climbed in and was a bit concerned about the edging power, but that has since been dispelled. I loved my MadRock Redlines for how they could edge on anything, but these shoes do just as well, if not better, while still being able to feel the rock under your toes. The arch is very soft, and the sole is more of a medium stiffness. Softer than a lot, but not as soft as 5.10 Teams, Scarpa Stix, etc.

    My greatest fear about these was the rubber out of the box is not the stickiest. It's malleable, but don't expect to do the party trick where you hang one shoe off the other by the sole. For indoor competitions they stick about as well as other quality rubbers, but outside on granite is where they shine. They bested shoes soled with R3, C4, Trax, everything in my quiver. This stuff oozes onto the crystals and sticks.

    At the moment Backcountry lists the recommended use as "sport climbing" but these shoes really excel in bouldering. The heel conforms to your foots shape well, and the toe rubber works great for toe hooks, scums, and compression movements. I've done both in these shoes and while I liked them for sport, I love them for bouldering, they are truly a phenomenal set of shoes.

    Things that could be better:
    The rubber could be a bit better on fine grain stone like some sandstone.
    The heel could be even slightly lower volume (I have a very small heel).
    The interior sock-like part sometimes gets bunched up while tightening the strap. Very nit-picky but it is exceedingly annoying and has made me get off a problem before to fix it.

    Overall these shoes rock. I will be hard pressed to find another set of shoes that do so well at so much.

    Best I have found

    • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
    • Fit: Runs small
    • Size Bought: 10
    • Height: 5'11"
    • Weight: 150lbs

    I tried on the Orange and the Blue fit of the Acro. The orange was a bit too wide for me. The blue is really for a narrower foot. I've been wearing down turned aggressive shoes for years, and the Acro is the only one that I feel like doesn't limit my climbing ability. It just fits, and feels like they put the time into designing it properly. My miura VS now sit in my closet.

    No Shadow No Problem

    • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
    • Fit: Runs small
    • Size Bought: 48
    • Height: 6'3"
    • Weight: 200lbs

    The fact that my toe is positioned more over the focal point of the shoe took a little getting use to. Now, I try to push my toes off small edges and no shadows with no luck. Place your toe and forget about it.
    No pressure points in the toe box.
    The stiff mid-sole and soft rubber is a great combo.
    The soft rubber in the arch allows me to toe down by flexing my foot instead of having to crank my heel through the back of my calf.
    There is certainly no shoe that can compare to the style and finish of the Blue Acro.
    1)Look Good
    2)Feel Good
    3)Look Good
    4)Safety

    Comfy + performance out of the box!

    • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
    • Fit: True to size
    • Size Bought: 5.5 Mens

    These shoes are comfy out of the box and perform! These shoes are awesome! I love the fact that they come in wide and narrow versions. This fits my foot perfectly, no dead space, with an awesome heelcup. Compared to my Miuras and Solutions these are way comfier out of the box, and they look daum good!

    Sticky Icky!!

    • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
    • Size Bought: US 8/ EUR 41
    • Height: 5'11"
    • Weight: 160lbs

    These are by far the best aggressive shoes I have ever owned. Being Sportiva loyal, I was hesitant at first but after I decided to give them a shot because of great reviews from friends, this is the ONLY shoe I use for every style! Ultra comfortable, even on multi-pitch sport climbs. You won't feel like you have to rip these off after every burn. I've used them for sport climbing, bouldering and they even perform really well for crack climbing. The rubber is extremely sticky, even on polished routes they aren't going anywhere! The Acros also retain their aggressive shape really well. I have been climbing in these A LOT for about 9 months or so and they still fit and perform like they are new from the box! Let's just say my Sportivas are just collecting dust!