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Black Diamond Express Ice Screws

$59.95

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    • One Color, 10cm
      $59.95
    • One Color, 16cm
      $59.95
    • One Color, 19cm
      $59.95

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    Express Ice Screws

    The Black Diamond Express Ice Screws' unique taper reduces ice fracturing and eases placements. A large crank knob takes less fine motor skills to use than a small one, so you can place the Express Ice Screw when you're pumped like crazy and really need it. Black Diamond uses a stainless steel hanger to eliminate rusting and decrease sun-induced melt-out. Two carabiner holes make sketchy hanging belays easy to set up.
    • Dual-clip in points make belays much easier to build
    • Tapered design for easier placements
    • Item #BLD1126

    Material
    steel
    Recommended Use
    ice climbing
    Manufacturer Warranty
    1 year

    Tech Specs

    What do you think about this product?

    View

    >Rating: 3

    Second best

    Familiarity:
    I've used it several times

    They definitely work, but the Petzl Lasers are so much easier to start that there's really no reason to buy these.

    >Rating: 5

    Standby Screws

    Familiarity:
    I've put it through the wringer

    I have at least 5 years on 12 of these screws. They start fast, stay sharp, and have 2 clip in points (occasionally handy on anchors) and just instill as much confidence as an ice screw can. Plus BD always stands behind there equipment. To me they are the gold standard ice screw

    >Rating: 5

    Do your forearms a favor

    Familiarity:
    I've put it through the wringer

    Fresh screws go through even brittle ice like butter. Best mental boost while pumped out on a section of vert!

    >Rating: 4

    Solid

    These are solid and place fast. Tactile feedback upon starting, goes in fast with the lever. Two hole design has neutral effect for me. Racks neatly on both side, but is easier to take out on the left side. Have not used the petzl laser speed for comparison; you'll also have to decide on the balance of weight/cost/durability vs the UL model.

    >Rating: 5

    Love it!

    Familiarity:
    I've used it several times

    Great for abalakov systems (I think the name is V-thread anchor?) in the glacier. It goes in smooth and easy and you can recover it really fast, which is perfect when hanging off an ice wall. Sturdy construction and sharpened as hell. Worth it every penny. Have not tried other brands but I don't think I need to. Will definitely get a couple more BD screws in different sizes

    >Rating: 5

    Tried & True, Ice Screw!

    Familiarity:
    I've put it through the wringer

    The work-horse of ice screws and easy to insert in a pinch with the independently spinning capabilities of the screw handle. Photo below take in Maple Canyon: hit me up for Ice Condition Reports in Utah/Wyoming, or I'll bump into you out there!

    The
    >Rating: 5

    Worth every penny

    Familiarity:
    I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions

    These are my first screws, so I don't have much to compare them to, but have had no problems with them so far. Quick to plug and pretty light. Used them for a top rope anchor and they were solid.

    These
    >Rating: 4

    Cue Metallica Music

    Familiarity:
    I've put it through the wringer

    Probably the scariest tool I carry with me while skiing in glacial terrain. Left on my harness for easy access but rarely used. The most likely tool to stab you in a bad crash and arguably the most important tool to save your life if one was to fall in a crevasse. In my experience 8 out of 10 times I have used this tool as a drill rather than a screw. Two holes drilled as a V into a solid block of ice make for a solid anchor in the ice to slip your rope through. (we hope) Just don't tell your mom you trusted frozen water with your life.

    Probably
    >Rating: 4

    Excellent screws

    Familiarity:
    I've put it through the wringer

    Have a whole rack of them. They whistle right in, are lightweight, hold an edge well...really what more do you want?

    >Rating: 5

    These are amazing

    Familiarity:
    I've put it through the wringer

    I've tried a bunch of different screws when out with friends - I always end up wanting to use mine (these). These are great at setting, and I can often get them to set in the first turn or two, where most others I need to get 3-5 before they are in. They have a great spinner (but definitely make sure to close it when you are done!), and drive super easily and quickly, which is a huge relief when you are pumped silly. The color coding is handy, and so are the dual attachment points. I only wish there was an 'ultralight' version like petzl makes for these.

    >Rating:

    Screwing up

    /
    >Rating: 5

    Good screw

    Familiarity:
    I've used it several times

    Put in about 10 days on the sharp end this winter using these screws. I never fell on one or had to rest on one mid-climb, but I nevertheless felt confident in my placements in solid ice and could feel the screws "talking" back to me if the ice was crap or if there were air pockets.

    >Rating:

    Whorehouse hose, Eureka, CO

    /

    Awesome picture Bowen!!! I selected this image to feature on the Community Hub at the bottom of the Backcountry.com homepage! Congrats on being utterly GOATWORTHY !!

    wocao haodiao

    What harness is that? Do you like it?

    >Rating:

    Express Ice screws then Pickets

    Big drop below (few thousand vert below what you see), exposed glacial ice then soft wet snow, combo of BD express ice screws and then MSR pickets for protection...

    Big

    Are you sure this picture wasn't taken on Mt. Gordon Lyon on a Saturday afternoon after a couple of brewskis at the Afterglow?

    How many ice screws would you carry with you on a trip like this? And which lengths would you take?

    for a running belay such as that, I would have 3-4 Ice Screws (usually 4), one - 22cm (for v-threads) and 3 - 13cm's

    >Rating:

    Good pro for a questionable activity

    several screws on a short vertical pitch.

    several
    >Rating: 4

    Super fast. Super sharp

    These screws are the workhorse on my rack--sure, I have a couple grivel screws that I absolutely love, and I think there's even a Petzl Laser Sonic kicking around--but for most of my placements, I'm sinking in BD Express screws. I find that while they don't place as quickly as the Grivel screws, they rack much more conveniently on your harness, and the multiple clip-in points make them an ideal piece for anchors. They're solidly built, start fast in hard ice, and easy to see sizes (I just think of them as camalot sizes) Make sure to flip the grinder knob down, as having your rope catch on it can be disastrous.

    >Rating: 5

    Ice ice, baby

    Familiarity:
    I've used it several times

    Just peachy for super fast screwing. The color-coded crank nobs were what sold me on them. They are ultra easy to place and only really need to be sharpened once every ice season. I wouldn't want to take a fall on them, but that goes for anything screwed into ice. It's very important to use protection.

    Just

    Just remember to flip the grinder back down after you sink the screw...

    >Rating: 5

    Bombers

    Familiarity:
    I've put it through the wringer

    I climb with a very mixed rack of different brands, and BD stands out like a happy thumb. Lighter than the grivels for sure. Plus I dig the double biner access! Bites, screws fast, does everything you look for in a screw!

    >Rating: 5

    Looking for a good screw?

    Familiarity:
    I've put it through the wringer

    Look no further. I love these. They start way fast and the little knob on the hanger makes getting them in a breeze. I like these a lot because they rack nicely on your harness. They go on and off ice clippers very easily, which is crucial when you are getting pumped and every fumbled move only adds to your pump. These are just great screws

    >Rating: 5

    Fab ice screws

    Familiarity:
    I've used it several times

    These are superb. Recommend highly! And buying through this store made for smooth shopping.

    >Rating:

    Are the 16cm screws expected to be back...

    Are the 16cm screws expected to be back in stock any time soon? Thanks!

    We do have a order pending with our buddies down the street at BD but I honestly don't expect it in until probably around the first week of April.

    >Rating:

    What size? I'll probably only be in 4...

    What size? I'll probably only be in 4 person teams, on the temperate glaciers of the Pacific northwest. I was going to pick the 19cm just because I assume longer ensures a better "bite" but the 22cm might be overkill. Any advice for a newbie? Thanks!

    The rule about ice screws is that the base of the screw needs to be flush with the ice to be safe and effective. So if all you have is 22cm screws, you could be in trouble if you encounter shallow ice and can't protect it. I'd get a couple 19cm screws, 1 22cm and 1 13cm. It's pricey, but when it comes to ice you don't want to cut corners.

    >Rating:

    Not really a question but here are the...

    Not really a question but here are the weights of the screws: 10cm 122 g 13cm 134 g 16cm 145 g 19cm 159 g 22cm 168 g

    Great info! Thanks.

    Yours or Bd's?