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  • Tenaya - Oasi Climbing Shoe  - White/Blue

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  • Tenaya - Oasi Climbing Shoe  - White/Blue

Tenaya Oasi Climbing Shoe

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    • White/Blue
    4.559

    9 Reviews

    Details

    Making tough climbs feel like gliding on water.

    Tackle your hardest boulder problems and send steep sport routes in the Tenaya Oasi Climbing Shoe. Designed with Tenaya's MRRB system, the Oasi helps you control your balance on dime-edges and sloped slabs while simultaneously allowing a dynamic response when you need to jump for the jug.

    The Oasi's SXRDynamics moving tightening system ensures a secure fit when you're heel-hooking. Tenaya's Draxtor PAT closure uses a unique hook-and-loop strap that tightens around the forefoot. There's also a dual-layer midsole to keep the Oasis solidly stiff, and Vibram's XS Grip sole sticks to polished rock reliably.

    • Maximum Range in Response and Balance system
    • SXRDynamics moving tightening system
    • Draxtor PAT closure
    • Dual-layer midsole
    • Vibram XS Grip sole
    • Item #TNY0005

    Tech Specs

    Upper Material
    microfiber, [tongue] Lycra
    Lining
    TXT-treated cotton
    Closure
    hook-and-loop, Draxtor PAT
    Midsole
    dual-layer GI 1.8 and TST 150
    Rubber
    Vibram XS Grip
    Profile
    aggressive downturn
    Claimed Weight
    11.9 oz
    Recommended Use
    sport climbing, bouldering

    Tech Specs

    • Reviews
    • Q & A

    What do you think about this product?

    Have questions about this product?

    Great shoe

    • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
    • Fit: Runs small

    This shoe is dope. I had a little trouble getting used to using it in underhang routes, but now it's perfect. Comfort and performance. Will def buy these shoes again after this pair wears out. Note I have a men's size 7. My regular show size is 9.5. Could have gone with a 7.5 and would have been a perfect fit but after the wear in process, the oasi fits really well.

    Great balance of comfort and performance

    • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
    • Fit: Runs large

    I've gone through two pairs of Oasis. For size reference, I had a little extra heel space in a 6.5 Oasi; a 38 in the LS Futura and a 38.5 in the LS Solution are suction cup fits for me.

    These shoes are cut narrow! I have a wide women's foot (La Sportiva Men's is perfect for me) and these shoes are still a little narrow for me in the toebox. I'm currently looking for something to replace them because of this issue.

    Overall, these shoes are great if you want something soft, and between a Miura and a Solution in performance/capability. They are probably overhyped, but at the time of their introduction, they filled (and still fill) a relatively unoccupied niche of sensitive, comfortable, performance shoes.

    Pros:
    - Really sensitive shoe; but not so soft as to lack structure/support; shoe flex is designed to allow your foot freer movement
    - Impressively capable for edging, smearing, smedging
    - Solid but not excellent heel
    - Trango stands by their product and sent me new closure tabs when mine wore out :)
    - Well-made sole and rand have held up impressively well for thinness of rubber

    Cons:
    - Toe hooks are pretty meh, the boomerang-shaped patch of rubber on the toe is not very useful
    - Lacing system is pretty bad; the hook tabs constantly detach from the loop patch, and the hooks wear out over even a year. They also slip on the straps.
    - Soles are outdated Vibram XSGrip rubber instead of stickier (IMO) XSGrip2 rubber

    Very great all-around shoe

    • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
    • Fit: Runs large
    • Size Bought: 5.5

    My go-to shoe for a comfy day. It's a stiffer shoe but still does well on steep walls. I've had mine for 6 months now and the velcro is weakening.
    I wear a 38 in Solutions and 38 in Genius. Sized down 1/2 size to get them to fit.

    Seemingly The Perfect Shoe

    • Familiarity: I've used it several times
    • Fit: Runs large
    • Size Bought: 10.5

    Of all the shoes I have climbed in, these are by far the best. They are as comfortable as the 5.10 Rogues (very relaxed fit), but just as effective and powerful as the Evolv Nexxos (ridiculously aggressive). I've used them on small, sharp edges of Sierra granite, and on long, slabby sections, and so far they have held up excellently. They fit like a slipper, but the straps allow you to really crank them down if you want a tighter fit. I could see myself wearing these for a long day of multipitch just as easily as they could be used for an intense bouldering session.

    Overall, if you're on the fence, I would go for it and purchase them. (If funds allow for it.) They're refreshingly free of gimmicky crap, they seem to be very durable, and the comfort is unbeatable.

    Be Skeptical of the Hype

    • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
    • Fit: True to size
    • Size Bought: 8.5

    Shoe was one of the most comfortable out of the box, make sure to size these true to fit as well because they won't stretch in size at all (just conform more to your foot). If you're familiar with La Sportiva Sizes than size these as you would the Solutions. When I'm saying true to size below I'm saying true to your performance climbing shoe size ya dolt. ;)

    The Pros:
    I wanted a softer shoe that could be a great all arounder and these seemed to fit the bill for the first three months of wearing them. The shoes edge respectably and can be good enough on most terrain, but really shine on overhanging sport and bouldering routes. The adjustable straps are great for cinching down the shoe for that "just right" fit after the shoes have conformed to your foot.

    Now on to the cons:
    My pair are almost due for a resole and already there are durability concerns with the shoe's heel rand peeling off from doing powerful heel hook moves. My biggest qualm though is the almost paradoxical break in period of the shoe, as stated above these were the most comfortable performance shoe I've owned out of the box. After time the fit of the Oasi seemed to grow more painful with each session (I used to be able to stand all day in them, recently had to pop em off between each go because of the pain).

    Due to degradation of the shoes themselves as well as the loss of comfort I will not be investing in a resole of these suckers (even for gym shoes).

    All in all if you have the money to burn and can afford to get a fresh pair of these puppies every 3 months than ... spend those hard earned bucks. For a poor college student these shoes cost too much for what they offer.

    My new secret weapons

    • Familiarity: I've used it several times
    • Fit: Runs large
    • Size Bought: Men's 8

    Ever since I bought a pair of Tenaya Masais, I was completely taken up by the company's philosophy of high comfort and high performance. At the behest of a friend, I decided to pick up a pair of Oasis when my 5.10 Black Wings got completely wrecked after two seasons of use in the gym (RIP Black Wings).

    One caveat regarding these shoes is that the size is super wonky. Just to give you a point of reference: Masai (9), Anasazi VCS (9), Oasi (8). These shoes run run really big, so you'll want to size them down pretty heavily (at least 1.5-2 sizes).

    Apart from the sizing issues, I love these shoes. They edge tremendously well, do wonders on steep/overhanging terrain, help me dance my way up techy-slabs, and just stick to slopey holds.

    Dan Crushing it at the Gorge

    Here's a photo of Dan; we've been working together finding him climbing gear for this season. Through the Expert Gearhead program here at Backcountry, Dan and I have been able to work one-on-one to ensure that Dan gets the gear he needs to spend the summer sending routes and problems.



    He's loving his Tenaya Oasi climbing shoes for their aggressiveness when it comes to edging.



    If you have any questions on gear, feel free to shoot me an email any time.



    (Picture posted with customers permission)



    Jared D.

    Expert Gearhead

    801.736.4336

    jdowns@backcountry.com

    Dan Crushing it at the Gorge

    Excellent all round shoe

    • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
    • Fit: True to size

    These work great all around. THey dont stretch, they dont hold stink like so many other shoes, they fit true to size and are well made. They also keep a nice tight fit unlike some velcro shoes, and I hate lace ups.

    Great all around shoe

    • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
    • Fit: True to size
    • Size Bought: 5

    These are my first pair of "real climber" shoes. I tried a bunch on at my local gym and these fit my foot the best. I can still edge on slabby stuff and they really helped me improve on more overhung stuff and bouldering. The shoes are flexible and thin enough you can still feel the rock and they didn't really stretch out very much. My only complaint would be the heel cup. I wish the whole thing was rubber for better gripping, but other than that I love them! I would defiantly get a second pair.