Swix Synthetic Cork

before i got this bad boy, i wasn't too fond of applying the F4 because the buffing process was a bit "strenuous." Using the cork not only enhances the effectiveness of the wax application, but makes it easier as well. i wasn't expecting much from it, but ended up really liking it.

If you wax, heat is required. If you don't want to spend a lot of money (for an iron), then a cork is what you need. This (fake) cork works well with a variety of kick waxes, so get the wax on, heat with the cork and go ski (assuming you've got your glide wax on too).

On cold mornings that turn into warmer days I'll use an all temp wax and cork it after I've scraped. It creates a pretty fast base that usually lasts all day. If you have the time to cork, do it.

If you're into doing your own waxing, be it XC or alpine, you'll may consider "corking" your wax into your ski/board. "Corking" is an old school way of heating up the wax you've crayoned on your base. If you don't know what I mean by crayoning, then delete this and stay in town with your skateboard. If you don't have an iron, corking does work and it gives you a nice workout besides. In the old days, a real cork created from a cork tree was used to rub crayoned wax into ski bases. The simple friction of rubbing a natural cork along a base covered with wax melted the wax into the base. Certainly not as effective as a hot wax iron but effective nonetheless. These days, a foam cork has replaced the natural cork because it creates more friction (heat) than real cork. I don't know what's worse, saving cork trees (look it up) from extinction or using foam, a petroleum product we get from you know where. Either way, if you don't have an iron (woops, electricity involved), then this Swix synthetic cork works quite well.

It does what a cork is designed to do. If weight is an issue for you the synth must be about a gram or 2 light than the original. o.k really it works just fine