Swix Edger 2x2 - 2007 BCS

My best bet would be the swix website or a local ski/snowboard shop.

The answer below has it spot on. You could also check out

http://wwwswixschool.com

for some videos or

http://www.swixsport.com/eway/default.aspx?pid=278&trg=MainContent_6179&MainContent_6179=6155:0:24,2988

for some written instructions.

While I don't own this specific tool, I personally have a lot of experience with these types of tools and will impart some knowledge. First to answer your question, you are correct; you would insert the file into the side you want, 88/89; or 1 or 2 degrees of bevel you would place the file on the 88 side which would also be the side placed toward the ski/snowboard; thus you would be looking at the 89 for an 88 degree side edge. Always make sure you try to stick to the factory bevels, otherwise this file alone isn't sufficient to properly cut a new angle and will result in poor edge tuning. There is some science behind edge angles and basically it’s to tune the amount of grip or bite and slip that the edges provide/allow in different conditions. The base edge bevel makes a ski more forgiving and the edges less sticky. The side edge bevels only purpose is to change the sharpness of the edge. Race techs will impart new angles multiple times a day, using many different files, stones, tools, etc., in addition to changing the bevel along the entire contact edge, to adjust for conditions. Don't forget that the file in this tool probably only cuts one way, thus the direction pointer on top of the tool shows which cutting direction to place the file in the tool and drag it for filing. Also always tune from tip to tail and never rub file back and forth, always a one way motion, pick up and restart...

Put your ski on a vice so the edge is facing up. If you do not have a vice then hold the ski strongly with your other hand so the edge is facing the ceiling (the side of the your ski - the base should not be pointing to the ceiling). Hold the tool in your right hand and stroke the edge hard enough that a needle size metal particles come out of the tool. It will take you a few times to get a hang of it, but once you see the needle particles come out you are doing it right. Also, try drawing on the edge with a Sharpie Permanent marker so you can see the progress you have made on the edge.

The stone is meant to be used before sharpening the edges to remove burrs in the edges. Nothing will keep your edges sharp other than avoiding ice and rocks. You just need to tune them periodically, which is what this tool is for. The diamond stone inserts are just regular diamond stones which fine tune and smooth the remaining tiny burrs the pocket stone leaves behind. So the order you use them is; pocket stone, diamond stone, then the edger.

3 side and .5 base will have you hooking up on that Killington boilerplate just great, but they won't stay sharp all that long. Less acute angles don't get dull as quickly - 2 side and 1 base is probably fine - keep your edges free of burrs and give them a light once over with this tool or a similar tool with a diamond stone every couple of times out. Use a nice stiff ski that's good in that stuff - an all-mountain or "beer league" GS race ski with a 17-20m radius. You want something tighter turning than 22m (older) or 27m (newer) GS skis, that way they'll still be decent on the steep bump runs. You'll never get any edge hold with fat skis - leave those at home unless it just snowed and wasn't windy afterward, which is about twice a year anywhere in NE... Ice is fast and a blast with the right planks.

It's always a personal preference, but for icy you need a more acute edge angle to hold onto whatever you can. For an acute edge, I like my edge at a 3 degree bevel, and my base at a 1 degree bevel.