Contributions by Shorty (65)

After years and years of use and abuse, my Vector was so worn and scratched that I could barely read the numbers, so I got the new standard. This watch feels much more durable and is just as lightweight as the old style. Arc'teryx made the face and numbers a bit bigger, so you can read them at a quick glance during approach. My only complaint is that the alarm is still pretty quite. I've slept through it a couple times (with the old watch) and was hoping it would change, bit that's not the case. Either way, if you don't want need a heart rate monitor in the same watch, this is the one to get.

This is your basic tough-as-you-want dirt jump helmet. It stands up to repeated crashes and the occasional drop kick pretty well. The liner came out of mine after a punting session, but I glued it back in there and it's been fine since them. I do wish it was a bit more vented, but it does OK even for trail riding.

Now don't get me wrong, I love my Quarks, but damn these picks wear out fast. One over-swing into some rock and they're done! Better pay more attention when carpenter arm sets in. Either way, I wouldn't trade those tools, so I just keep the pick stash stocked.

If you don't need a million bells and whistles on your heart rate monitor, this is an excellent choice. It works very well and is super easy to use.

Since buying this thing I've taken several diggers bad enough that I was convinced something was broken... except that I didn't have a single scratch. I'm amazed how well this thing protects the upper body. It's also very breathable (well, for full body armor) and incredibly comfortable. My only complaint is that the cumber-bund thing doesn't fit quite perfect with the chest protector, so you have to mess with it a bit, but that's a pretty small thing to whine about. Basically, get one if your ride anything with big-crash potential.

With the whole double-chamber thing, I expected this pump to do a bit better, but it's still pretty good. This thing is super tough, and it's really nice to have a gauge on there. The gauge isn't super accurate, but what do you expect on a tiny hand pump?

You're not going to find a better pair of DH / Freeride gloves for the money. These things kick ass, and your hands will thank you after a serious wreck. They're a bit on the toasty side, but not enough to keep me from using them in Moab heat. I did have a glued seam fail on me, but I just used some Shoe Goo and it's all better. Unless you have money to burn on gloves, just get these and be done with it.

These are the gloves I bust out for seriously hard ice and mixed pitches. My only complaint is that the leather palm comes in direct contact with your skin, so these gloves aren't quite as warm as they could be with just a think piece of fabric in there. However, they're still pretty warm and they grip like nothing else.

These thing work great for steep ice and even mixed climbing... and that's with leashless tools. Black Diamond seemed to find just the right mix of insulation and dexterity. They do get wet eventually, but the waterproof is pretty good. The only thing I don't like about these gloves is that I only have one pair. Time to do something about that...

I sized these up so I could use them with a fleece liner for ice climbing belays. Basically, I'm tired of trashing my good gloves in only a few days. They've seen a season of iced-up ropes (which bare a striking resemblance to barbed wire) and they still look great. I can't imagine wearing out a pair of these in less than 5 seasons of regular rock belays.

After you get this kit, add a few kickass pain killers, an epi pen, and a couple extra rolls of athletic tape and you're set for just about anything that you can fix in the field. I've had some friends end a trip with some pretty nasty stuff, and this kit had everything I needed to get them stabilized.

This pack holds everything you could possibly need for a day of shuttle runs... including a full-size digital camera to shoot your friends riding the manky mank. I had a Nomad for a while and it always seemed stuffed to the gills. This thing has tons of room for everything. I'm not usually a super-pocket fan, but DAKINE gave this bag just the right amount to keep your tools and parts separate from everything else.

I was stoked on these pedals until the right one seized up after a half season of use. Granted, it was damn hard use, but these are supposed to be DH pedals. I have lots of friends who run the XX version, however, and they don't have any problems. Sealed bearing make all the difference. You get what you pay for.

I was surprised how thick this shirt was. It's a bit on the warm side for the middle of summer, but it's super soft.

This shirt rocks other than that it's a bit narrow in the shoulders.

I put these things on my downhill race bike and they definitely get the job done. I'm running 8-inch rotors to stop a 40lb bike at race speeds and haven't had a problem. I was running Hayes 9 before, and the XT blows them out of the water.

Nothing but smooth shifting from this cassette. I haven't had a single problem.

These shorts do the job, but I'm not stoked on the stretchy side taps that are supposed to hold them on your waist. Besides the fact that this features works poorly, it sits right on the hips and feels horrible with a bike pack. The full-length side vents rock though.

This thing rocks for seriously hot days. I've been wearing it with and without upper body armor, and it works well both ways. I wish it stretched just a bit, but you don't notice once you have it on your body. It sure stinks after a weekend of racing though. Damn...

I'm sure this thing pumps like a champ, but you can't read the thing because it goes to like 280psi!! You have no idea if you have 20 or 40 psi in your tires...

I tested these boots during the Ouray Ice Festival and was incredibly impressed. Despite their light weight (or maybe because of it) they climbed ice very well. I found myself placing my crampons much more than actually swinging them. There is no comparison with regular boots when it comes to mixed climbing. The Ice Comps clearly win the battle. The built-in gaiters did a good job of keeping the snow out, and the Gore-Tex lining kept my foot dry when I stepped through the ice and into the river. These boots were a little snug on my very wide, high-volume feet, but they still did the job OK. They also run about a half size tighter than the regular Lowa ice climbing boots. My suggestion is to remove the heel spur unless you climb M10 or harder. It can be done with an allen wrench in about a minute. You have to approach in a different pair of boots, which is a pain, meaning these would be a very poor choice for the mountains. Ice and mixed cragging only.

I can’t even come close to describing how great this pack is. After years of suffering under a lightweight frameless pack, I gave up and went for this thing. Not only is it a pound lighter than the Cold Cold World backpack I was using, it supports loads better (no more jacked back), and it’s WATERPROOF. I was sure it would feel fragile, but this pack is actually really burly. I’ve even been taking on desert climbing trips without worry of it getting trashed. The profile is pretty tall and thin, so it’s a little different to pack. It’s also a bit tough to overload, as the top strap barely makes it over the top when this thing is full, but that’s a pretty easy fix. You’ll get use to the roll top pretty quick, though it feels strange at first.

At first these things sounded like a gimmick, but I am really impressed at how well they perform. The anti-fog coating keeps them from getting all steamed up on bike rides (like the Reflex glasses do). The stems are more comfortable than the Reflex sunglasses as well. The color-changing lenses do such a good job that I often forget they’re on and get strange looks when I wear them inside. They don’t get quite dark enough to be used on high-altitude climbs, but my eyes seems to be more sensitive than most.

There is a really good reason these things are so popular. They provide plenty of light for everything but complex route finding, have a super-long battery life, and weight nearly nothing. This little guy goes with me on everything except alpine climbs (where a halogen is a pretty nice thing to have). Tossing it in the pack (just in case) has saved my skin more times than I can count.

These Volcom shorts are about as burly as burly gets. You just can’t kill these things. Know that they do fit a bit on the small side. I had to return one pair and order up a size because I felt like a marathon runner with some mid-thigh action going on. One size up and they were below the knee and ultra-comfortable.

Merino wool is incredible stuff. The claim about these things not stinking is completely true. I did a test by wearing this shirt on a two day climbing and biking weekend, then took it to work Monday (with the shirt unwashed). People would touch the fabric and say “Oh, this is that cool merino wool, huh. Is it true that it doesn’t stink like polyester?” He he he. The only drawback is that it dries a lot slower then polyester, so it would be a poor choice for alpine climbs where clothing is really hard to dry.

My wife and I both have this pack, and neither of us have ever seen a bag that fits our biking needs better. It holds a cross country or freeride helmet easily. The shin guard holders also get a workout when we don’t feel like sweating up the padding while riding a 40lb bike uphill. The tool, tube, pump organizer keeps everything in its placed to appease my organization obsessions. My only complaint is the bladder. While the quick disconnect eliminates the need to run the hose through the pack every time you want to fill the thing up, it has come undone a few times. Just have to make sure it’s in there good.

These ascenders are comfortable to jug with, easy to manipulate with one hand, and grip the rope well even if it's icy or muddy. It is a bit of a drawback that you can only clip one carabiner through the handle, but you can just clip your daisy to the ascender and clip your aider to the daisy's carabiner.

Every spare scrap of steel has been stripped from these crampons, and you can definitely feel the difference when they're on your feet. The attachment system took a few tries to get used to, but I'm all about this thing now that I have it figured out. For both steep ice and mixed routes, these things are the ticket.

I bought these boots to replace a pair of Scarpa Freneys that were stolen, and I like the M-Finity even better. They're incredibly light and very comfortable. They fit my wide feet well. The cuffs are very soft, which increases precision on techy mixed stuff but wears you out on really long ice pitches. My only complaint is that the plastic part above the heel bail is too short for my Black Diamond crampons to work. I changed over to the Petzl Darts, and they work great.

I have been using the Petzl Reverso for a few years, and I can honestly say that I like the ATC Guide better. The Black Diamond device locks more securely and releases easier thanks to it's specific release point. I wish you could get a carabiner through this hole, but I suppose it's smaller to keep people from accidentally setting it up wrong. The ATC Guide is a little heavier then the Reverso, but it's worth the trade off. You'll never see me on a multi-pitch route without this thing.

If you hate weight, these pants are great. You’ll never notice the weight in your pack or on your legs. The ¾-length side zips make them easy to put on and take off with boot on, and they don’t go all the way to the waist where they would cause pressure points. Any lighter, and they would not be burly enough for the mountains. But, as they are it’s just enough.

Unlike the massive Ronin pants, the AK pants have a relatively trim fit. They are still just baggy enough that you won’t get mistaken for an 80’s holdout, but fit close enough that they don’t get in the way for backcountry hiking. They stay nice and dry, and all the zippers are waterproof. Ankle zips let you flare out a bit in the park.

These pants were absolutely huge. I got the small (I have a 30in waist) and they barely fit with the adjustable waist cinched all the way down. Both the warmth and ventilation were excellent, and the zip-in track pants were great for wearing when I got off the hill for the day. Tons of space for everything in multiple cargo pockets.

The Ice Flow gloves are by far the best ice climbing gloves I have seen. They are warm without being too hot. Their low profile lets your grip tools comfortably without causing pump, and the leather palms hold up to long rappels without falling apart. They have padded knuckles to keep the bashing to a minimum, and the breathability is perfect to keep your hands from sweating.

This helmet takes the comfort and adjustability of the classic Ecrin Roc and leaves the weight behind. It easily adjusts with one hand and doesn’t move around on your head on once adjusted. It’s plenty light for sport and alpine climbing, and the headlamp clips are very easy to use.

Being a wildlife photographer means spending a lot of time sitting as still as possible in freezing cold temperatures and often close to or trekking through water. It also means extremities are bound to get cold. I have found the Sorel Caribou boots the perfect blend of warmth, comfort, and with their removable wicking liner, even sweat hasn't proved a problem. I have worn them on substantial hikes and on slippery rocks. I was pleasantly surprised at their grip and comfort. They take some getting used to, as they aren't small, and although are soft on delicate shins, they are not flexible hiking boots. It's okay, they aren't meant to be. I find them a welcome addition to my winter photography gear. Now if I could just find the same reliable technology for my hands. I do, however, recommend bringing a second pair of shoes for driving as they are awkward on the gas pedal and make sure that your socks will extend up beyond the top of the boots. Sizes ring fairly true to shoe size, so order yourself some Thinsulate (or the like) socks and stick with your normal shoe size. You'll be happy you did.

I’ve had these bibs for about four years now, and they’re absolutely bomber. When it comes to battling through nasty mountain storms for days at a time, there’s nothing that I would rather have. However, on nice days they always end up in the bottom of my pack, jealous of my lightweight softshell pants. The combination of high bibs and a jacket inhibits breathability a little too much for my taste. The bottom line is: if you’re expecting horrendous weather, get these bibs. If you’re climbing on a nice day, leave them at home and wear something lighter.

This hat stretched a full size over the course of a week. If you get it and it's a little tight, don't worry. It won't be that way for long.

Don’t go with the big size unless you have an absolutely massive dog (or dogs). The large holds about three liters or water, and holds its shape well when full. It also packs super small. The only real drawback is the soft rim–which needs to be stiffer to hold its shape well when the bowl just has a little food or water left. I found it be too floppy in general and traded for something stiffer.

This pack is about as stripped down as they come. It’s pretty well a sack with a (removable) lid. If you’re planning on a 40lb or less load, than it’s a pretty good bag. Don’t carry any more than that. I was stuck with an 80lb load on one trip and ripped the shoulder straps right off this thing. Jansport replaced them for free but it still didn’t help with the hike out. The waist belt doesn’t fit a waist smaller than 30in very well.

These new Spectres are a major improvement over the earlier model. The cut-out shaft greatly reduces weight without sacrificing strength at all. You can beat the hell out of this thing placing it and just sharpen it up like your ice tools at the end of the day. The doubled sling lets you lengthen your connection so rope whip won’t pluck it from the placement. Though it was designed for the ice, the Spectre is actually better for placing in iced-up cracks and mossy top outs. It’s great when you need it, but back it up if possible.

When I first got this thing I was very skeptical. It looked way too gimmicky to actually be functional. After a month of using it, I’m a believer. The main advantage of using this over a daisy is that it allows you to clip into two different anchors without violating the double-clipping that makes daisy’s body-weight only. Being able to clip in before finishing your anchor saves you tons of time on long routes and rappels.

These work surprisingly well for leashless climbing. My advice it to take some tape and beef up the inside so it’s the perfect thickness to cradle your hand in the gloves that you plan on using the most. It definitely makes these easier to hang onto. Put the new attachment (Strike) on the upper shaft and matching is easy as well. The only real drawback is that you get a lot of pick shift when matching on rock. These things do make it nearly impossible to plant the shaft of your tool in the snow.

These things make rescue situations run much smoother. Way faster and easier to use than a prussic, plus it’s automatically self-minding in crevasse rescue situations. If you’re traveling as a team of two, replace your prussics with these and single-person crevasse rescue will go from nearly impossible to pretty simple. Also very useful for light hauling on a long trad route or light aid lines.

Where this sling really comes into its own is when you’re carrying a really big rack. Being able to keep all the gear relatively separated is key when your rack is just shy of a big wall kit. With smaller racks, I tend to not like it because you often end up with gear on the back and front, but none in the middle. This makes for a very awkward load.

When you’re heading up a long route with only a pitch or two of aid, these are definitely the way to go. Much smaller and lighter than standard aiders, they are easy to bunch up and clip to the back of your harness. If you’re spending more then a day up there, get something beefier. Anything under a day and these are the ticket.

Don’t you love snow sticking to your crampons? Well, no one else does either. These Anti-Balling plates are very easy to install and they are worth their weight in gold. My only complaint is that a long alpine route with a lot of rock will pretty much destroy them in a day. If you’re spending most the time in the snow, they’re definitely worth it.

The Reverso really comes into its own on multi-pitch climbs. The ability to belay directly off the anchor with a solid, self-locking system is extremely helpful. On long trad and ice routes, there is not reason to carry anything else. The Reverso allows you to eat, take pictures, organize the rack or anything else while you’re belaying. For a party of three, it allows you to belay two seconds at the same time with ease. If you’re just cragging, get something else.

This harness is perfect for ice, alpine and trad climbing. The ice clipper loops are far easier to use than a floating ‘biner with a bunch of screws on it, and the contoured shape is wide enough in the back to make for a relatively comfortable hanging belay. Everything is easily adjustable, even with gloves on. My only complaint is that the tie-in point is a little on the small side, making it less ideal for any aid climbing. Since it wasn’t designed for that in the first place, it’s pretty hard to complain.

This thing removes stuck gear and opens a bottle at camp. What else do you want it to do? Carry your pack for you? The one drawback is that the backside is a little too skinny to really bang on it when you’re working on a stuck stopper. Fix this problem by wrapping the back with tape, giving you a soft pad to hit the palm of your hand.

This ‘biner is great for just about everything where you need a locker, except belaying. Though it is made of round bar stock, the D-shape does not lend it self to belaying very well. They are also a little on the heavy side. For this reason, I like other lockers for long trad climbs or alpine routes.

This is basically a super-long rabbit runner. They are pretty light and easy to bundle up and carry. Setup with two or three anchors is very easy and it gives you a central loop for everyone to clip into, prefect for multi-pitch climbs. The one major draw back is that it’s a little more painful on your wallet when you have to cut it up for rappel slings. For this reason I would recommend a regular cordelette of 7mm unless you know that all the stations have chains.

Rabbit Runners are a must for long ice, alpine or trad routes. They give you the same extension of a double length sling except they rack like an over-the-shoulder with the two ends clipped together. This also allows you to take them off your shoulder without removing your other hand from the hole. Use them for gear extension on wondering pitches or to sling horns and icicles. They are very useful for belay anchors as well.

These are absolutely the smallest and lightest slings you’ll ever find. They’re so skinny that you don’t even want to trust the things, but they hold 22kN. The long piece works perfectly for a cordelette and when you trick-tipple the shoulder-length ones they are hardly as thick as a quickdraw. If you’re counting ounces, replace all your slings with these. You’ll be happy you did.

These shoes are perfect for 4th class climbing and lightweight backpacking. They have more support than most ‘approach shoes’ but are also a bit heavier. They smear pretty well, thanks to the stealth rubber, but don’t edge worth a flip. If you want comfy shoes to hang out in, these are the ones. For something a little more climbing oriented, get the Guide Tennies. Get the same size as your Five Ten rock shoes and they’ll fit perfect.

These shoes are great for everything from bouldering to trad climbing depending on how you fit them. Most will go super small for bouldering or sport climbing. I literally get the smallest ones that I can pull on. They’ll suck to start with but when they stretch out they’ll fit like a sticky glove. For trad climbing, size them like bedroom slippers (feet flat) and they will fit perfectly in thin cracks. They will stretch more than a full size if you climb a lot so be ware of getting them too big.

Stealth Rubber makes a huge difference in traction for approaches and even steeper hiking. While it does not bite into the dirt as well as a trail-running shoe, you can walk up a 50-degree rock slab with no problems. They offer enough performance for easy 5th class climbing and are awesome on long 4th class routes. I have very wide feet and I sized up a ½ size with good results.

This axe is so light that you don’t notice it on your pack at all but still has a strong enough head to be useful. The positive-clearance pick penetrates ice better than most ice axes, making it a good choice for more technical routes. If you’re planning on doing some industrial scale chopping with the adze, get a heavier axe.

These super-light ‘biners are ideal for anyone who wants to shave weight off their rack. If you're not one of these people, there's something wrong with you. They are surprisingly easy to clip and have about the same gate clearance as bigger ‘biners. Stick with full-size carabineers for sport climbs.

My wife and I have used these tools for lots of ice and alpine climbing. The Grip suits itself to smaller hands very well and the relatively straight shaft, compared to other tools, allows for a very easy swing; especially when you’re pumped stupid. They plunge well in the snow when you’re on alpine routes. Because the shaft doesn’t have much of a curve they do not hook as well on beat-out routes or mixed climbing. If you’re doing a ton of bullet-hard ice, however, they are a dream to swing.

These are great tools for both water ice and alpine climbing. Lots of clearence and the small pommel allows easy plunging in hard snow. I suggest not using the Viper Android Leash if you are planning on doing any alpine climbing as it does not allow you to grab the head of your tool. You are better off in the standard Android or the Lockdown Leash. Great tools if you have small hands.

These are great tools for both water ice and alpine climbing. Lots of clearence and the small pommel allows easy plunging in hard snow. I suggest not using the Viper Android Leash if you are planning on doing any alpine climbing as it does not allow you to grab the head of your tool. You are better off in the standard Android or the Lockdown Leash. Great tools if you have small hands.

These leashes are great for ice climbing, they are easy to use and hold your hand firmly to your tools on steep ice. If you plan to do any alpine climbing, either get the standard Android Leash or the Lockdown leash as these do not allow you to let go and grab the head of your tools.