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Angus Bohanon

Climber // Telemark Skier

Angus Bohanon: #3 Top 50 Gear Guru More Information

  • 21 Reviews - Helpful Votes: Helpful Votes 36 Helpful Votes 2
  • 3 Questions
  • 131 Answers

Rankings More Information

  • Western Colorado, now at school in WA
  • Bio:

    I'm a climber, almost exclusively, started climbing when I was 3, first lead at 11, haven't really stopped since. I say almost because I tele a bit too, but really I've been dedicated to mostly pushing myself on sport routes for the last 2 years and 3 years of competitive bouldering before that. I know there are people that criticize sport climbers as lazy posers, and I say that if you want to make climbing into a spiritual purification process, be my guest. I do it because it's fun, and I think short approaches and light racks make it more so.

    Notable areas that I've climbed at in the US include Red Rocks, City of Rocks, Smith Rock, Rifle, Independence Pass, the Flatirons, Cochise Stronghold, Owens River Gorge, Zion, Ouray, and some others that I can't think of right now. I've also climbed abroad a bit in Mallorca, Sardinia, the Verdon Gorge, and the Dolomites, among others.

    I'm a diehard Coloradoan, which is to say I wear a down jacket with shorts and sandals in winter and get grouchy at overcast skies or drizzle. I'm always trying to find new areas to climb at and new routes to have fun on, and i try not to take anything too seriously.

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Answer to: "can you wear these outdoors as well?"

EMU Clair 2 Slipper - Women's

2 hours ago

You certainly could, as the sole can definitely take a bit of a walk, but the tops are so low, especially in the back, that you'd get snow/mud/dirt in them really easily. For getting the newspaper? Very much yes. Walking the dog? Maybe. Hiking a sick backcountry bowl for first tracks? No.

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Answer to: "If I order a large quantity, is there a better rate? Or are..."

Princeton Tec Aurora Headlamp

3 hours ago

No bulk discounts here, but you will get free shipping if you buy more than 50 buck's worth.

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Answer to: "This Daisy Chain is the most cheaper... why? is not too good..."

Black Diamond Nylon Daisy Chain - 18mm

3 hours ago

Oh it's just as good, in fact it's stronger, but the Dynex is thinner, lighter, and higher-tech material, so it's more expensive. This will do everything the Dynex will.

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Answer to: "What sizes do you have in stock?"

Vasque Switchback Hiking Boot - Men's

4 hours ago

The only ones in stock are in the pulldown menu. They restock quickly though, so don't worry.

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Answer to: "hi again, thanks for your answer about the BD '02. Here are my..."

Black Diamond O2 Telemark Binding

4 hours ago

So it sounds like you're not on an especially aggressive setup (nice gear though), but you're not into crazy aggressive terrain either. I'd say you should get the Midstiff regulars, and then if they feel too sloppy, like it's all you pushing up out of the turn and the bindings aren't helping at all, upgrade to Rid Stiffs. Backcountry will let you return the old ones and shipping will be free on the new ones, all you'd have to pay for is to ship the old ones back. Probably a week turnover. If you do feel like pushing bumps and steeper terrain, I'd highly recommend Rid Stiffs. And kneepads, actually. I have the BD Telekneesis and they've saved me from many a rock (and my own skis).

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Answer to: "Anybody got an idea if i can fit a pair of snowboard boots and..."

Arc'teryx Khazri 35 Backpack - 2441-2746cu in

6 hours ago

It definitely has the space. The problem is going to be whether it's going to be wide enough to pack them securely rather than just a loose jumble, and I would guess that it doesn't. So it's all going to be packed kind of sloppy, but it'll fit.

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Answer to: "when will my credit card be charged"

Columbia Shred Zone Jacket - Boys'

7 hours ago

Once you go all the way through the order process. You have to enter shipping info and discount codes (if you have any) first. Keep in mind that putting an item in the cart doesn't reserve it for you, which I found out the hard way, so if stock is low you have to actually go through and buy it or it's gone.

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Answer to: "Can this thing really carry a snowboard...? I can't quite see..."

Black Diamond Bandit Avalung Pack - 690cu in

17 hours ago

It's got a strap on the bottom and the top that you can't see in the photo. It's more designed for ski carry than snowboard, since the snowboard will have to be horizontal, but it'll do it.

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Answer to: "I'm not getting the difference between the freeflex and the midstiff..."

Black Diamond O2 Telemark Binding

1 day ago

The Midstiff is a fair bit stiffer than the Freeflex, and the Ridiculously Stiff is even stiffer. It really depends on your skill level. If you are just starting out teleing and don't have fancy boots or anything, go for Midstiffs. If the above is true and you weigh less than 120, go for Freeflex. I am 5'9", 145 lbs, I ski really hard (used to race) on pretty fat, 169 cm skis, and I have Scarpa T1s (very stiff boots) and the Rid Stiffs are awesome. The stiffer the binding, the harder you're going to have to ski them to get all the way down into your turn, but you'll be able to link turns much faster (hence racing). Less stiff bindings will be easier to drop into without being crazy aggressive, easier to hike in, but more strenuous for long days because they won't kick you back up as much. They'll also be easier to ski powder in because you won't have to balance your weight as carefully. The R and S refer to the length of the cartridges. I have a size 10 foot (don't know what boot length that is) and my ski shop accidentally put smalls on and I couldn't turn at all because the bindings got maxed out. Unless you have absurdly small feet, the R's will adjust small enough. Hope that helps. If you want more specific advice for your height/weight/setup, feel free to post another question and I can tell you exactly what to get.

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Answer to: "My 9 year old son lost his favorite north Face jacket. It was..."

Spyder Kyds' Vail Jacket

1 day ago

Try the North Face Momentum or Denali, they both have similar color schemes available. The jacket on this page is neither North Face or fleece, so that's probably not what you're looking for.

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Answer to: "Anyone have any problems with this shrinking? I have kind of..."

Backcountry.com Siphon Street Full-Zip Hooded Sweatshirt - Men’s

1 day ago

I was wondering the same thing, but it's 90% polyester and only 10% wool, so it shouldn't be a problem. I have a sweatshirt made of the same material that didn't shrink after one wash, but I really can't say for sure that this one won't.

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Answer to: "how does a daisy chain work ?"

Black Diamond Nylon Daisy Chain - 18mm

1 day ago

The idea behind a daisy chain is that when you get to an anchor (for multi-pitching or cleaning a toprope) you can clip directly in to the bolts at an adjustable length. This will vary based on your belay stance, the setup of the anchor, the freedom of movement you need, whether there are other people there or not, etc. The important thing to remember is that when shortening a daisy chain, clip only to the loop closer to your harness, not to both that and the end. Any serious climber should have a daisy chain (or 2) and these are a great option. If you feel like forking out some extra cash, the Dynex version is just as strong, but smaller and lighter. And better looking. Your call.

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Answer to: "um...this is for Angus Bohanon...you did come across very rude,..."

Black Diamond QuickWire Quickdraw

1 day ago

I am truly sorry. Your question makes much more sense from a gift point of view, and I apologize for my previous answer. These are awesome draws that any climber would love to be given as a gift. Like I said in my previous answer, if you are actually trying to stock his entire trip, then you will need 10-15 (which is expensive), but speaking from a climber's point of view, every piece of gear that you are given is welcome. In that case, one would be appreciated hugely. Sorry I was rude.

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Answer to: "I bought this to climb the mast on my racing yacht. I have since..."

Black Diamond Alpine Bod Harness

1 day ago

I used to spend a lot of time on boats and I've never heard of any such standards, but I would not be surprised if this harness didn't meet them. Black Diamond is mostly a climbing company, and I would guess that it is not a priority for them to check their products against sailing standards. That said, most climbing harnesses are built more comfortably, lighter, and stronger than any sailing harness I've come across, so if you can convince the inspectors of that, you're golden! Also, I'm not sure how long you'll be in the harness, but be aware that this harness isn't really intended for long hangs. For just a slightly higher price, you can get something like the BD Momentum with padded straps that will be way more comfortable.

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Answer to: "I live in the southeast, and there are ALWAYS mosquitos.Is it..."

GoLite Valhalla 4 Shelter 4-Person 4-Season

1 day ago

It depends on the relationship you have with the mosquitoes. If you are loath to deprive the little fellers of their evening feed, by all means go with a tent that is made essentially of panel gaps for them to fly through (the Shangri La). If you wish that they and all their disease-spreading, blood-sucking, itch-making ilk would be wiped off the face of the earth in a manner both painful and protracted (which I would guess is closer to the truth), then go for this one. Or any other tent where the floor, walls, and ceiling are all attached, really. This is a great tent though, and you won't find much lighter for the size.

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Answer to: "How warm is this jacket, can it be worn as a winter jacket"

The North Face Pumori Fleece Jacket - Men's

1 day ago

Probably not a very cold winter. I would guess that you could wear it on its own down to the high 40s, but not much lower than that. Throw in another layer underneath and a windbreaker on top, and obviously you could go much colder. It's all in how you layer it.

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Answer to: "I also have these bindings and like the way they ski. Is there..."

Garmont 7tm Power Tour Releasable Telemark Ski Binding

1 day ago

It's a problem, to be sure. The only way I've been able to make it work is to lie on my side, put my boot in it, and pull really hard on the ski with my hands. That worked, but don't expect any style points for it.

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Answer to: "do i need to buy a set of these...like two of them? or will one..."

Black Diamond QuickWire Quickdraw

1 day ago

Have you ever been climbing at all? Like ever? I don't mean to be rude, but your question is something you really desperately need to know the answer to before you venture out on your own. To answer it, yes. You need to buy a set. When leading, you clip a draw (one of these) to each and every bolt on the way up. Again, if you didn't already know that, you shouldn't be leading at all. How many is in a set depends on where you climb, how long the routes are, how closely bolted they are, whether you feel like skipping clips (which you shouldn't), and a number of other factors, but count on needing 10 at the very least. I have 16 and have still encountered routes that needed more. I sincerely hope this was some kind of sarcastic joke, because a question like that gives me serious concerns that you will be in the next issue of Accidents in North American Mountaineering. Make good choices.

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Answer to: "Up to what temperature is this jacket appropriate?"

Columbia Hampton Trail Jacket - Little Girls'

1 day ago

Assuming you mean DOWN to what temperature, not very low. It's really just a slightly thicker than usual raincoat, so on its own it won't insulate that well. Depending on how warm in general the young 'un in question is, I would guess down to about 45F. With layers, of course, you could go much colder. If you did in fact mean up, then knock yourself out. The "fur" comes off, so wear it until it's hot enough to make you sweat inside, at which point it's probably time to strip a layer. Maybe mid 60's?

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Answer to: "will it work on the moon"

Spy MC2 Sunglasses

2 days ago

Cheeky, eh? The answer is no. The sunlight on the moon is so much more intense that you would be blinded immediately with something this light. Consider a mirrored lens.

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Answer to: "Does the collar roll into the collar????"

The North Face Venture Parka - Men's

3 days ago

No. Rolling an object into itself has proven to be a physical impossibility, such that the R&D department at North Face could not overcome it.

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Answer to: "What products will it charge? Will it charge a microsolft laptop?..."

Brunton Solar Roll

3 days ago

It really depends on the brand of the laptop, not the OS, but yes, it will. Read the description.

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Answer to: "what size should i ski? iam expert tele skier iam 5'5168 pou..."

Black Diamond Megawatt Ski 08/09 Model

3 days ago

if your planning lots of back country i would go with about a 174 based off height and weight have fun man

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