Gear Review
Black Diamond Dynex Sewn Runners
Setting the record straight
By Angus Bohanon
Ranked #2 - Climbing Accessories and Training
October 21, 2008
I feel obligated to correct "kowles_52455342" on his statement that "Dynex is Dangerous". It's just not true. I've been climbing for 16 years, competing for 4 and teaching for 2, and I can guarantee you without a shadow of a doubt that Dynex imparts 0.0% more force on a system than nylon. Static is static. No stretch at all on either system. That said, a static fall as short as 4 feet (theoretically) can kill you, so make sure you keep the slack out of the system if you're clipped into an anchor with slings, but the idea that Dynex will somehow make this worse or that nylon slings will take some of the force of a fall is just plain bullsh*t. It's a Luddite bias against newer and better gear that I have been trying to argue against for years, and I want it out on the table for what it is. These are fantastic slings, light and strong, and would be a complement to any rack for any discipline.
View Details: Black Diamond Dynex Sewn Runners
Helpful Votes: 4 Yes | 2 No
Change me.
2 Comments Last Reply: August 23, 2009 By: Guide_Hater
Dear Angus, Let me guess, you're a guide. How impressive. A fall of 0 feet can kill you if you're an idiot. Dynex stretches less than Nylon. If you have an anchor system that does not include the rope, and that includes only Dynex, you have a system that imparts more force to your protection points than an equivalent Nylon anchor system for a given short static fall. Static != Static, since there really is no such thing as static anyways. It's a continuum of force, and Dynex stretches less than Nylon. You sound like kind of a tool, let me guess, you're a guide?
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes | 2 No
I recommend reading and understanding the new "Climbing Anchors" book by John Long before making incredibly stupid assertions like "I can guarantee you without a shadow of a doubt that Dynex imparts 0.0% more force...than nylon". You didn't even capitalize 'nylon' which demonstrates your bias. Nice work going to accuracy of tenths: 0.0%. Why not hundredths or thousandths? "I can fully and totally guarantee by the hair on my chinny chin-chin, with 0.0000% doubt, that I am a total tool"
Helpful Votes: 1 Yes | 7 No