keeps that skin nice and rough

By OkP Ranked #915 - Climbing Accessories and Training November 16, 2007

Not sure what a bad fingerboard would be, but this isn't it. The pamphlet that came with this board aligns with the notion that you should train open handed instead of crimps, since this will translate into increased crimp strength, but not vice versa. I don't really have an opinion, so I decided to give open handed training a try. At first, it's pretty tough not to crimp up. But as with any regular exercise, it gets easier.

One time, jumping off the top of a boulder problem in my gym, I landed on my thumb and it's been hurting for a few weeks now. This means no hard pinches and taking it easy on the crimps. To my delight, I found that after a few months with this board, I can now use just the fingers with an open hand, no thumb, on holds where I previously would have needed the death grip. Now i'm not saying that one way of holding is better than another - this is just to illustrate that training with this board will get you hella strong, brah.

View Details: Metolius Simulator CNC Training Board - DO NOT USE!

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