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Gear Review
Got Morton's Toe? - the only asymmetric shoe that'll fit...
By Byron Go
Ranked #96 - Climbing Shoes
December 21, 2011
And FIT it does! I love mine already!
I sized same as my street shoe, this is my first downcambered climbing shoe (first that doesn't totally crunch my toes!) and I think next time I might go a half size down.
Shaman - 12, for reference, I wear a 10.5 in the Demortos.
The feel is phenomenal. Everything works as it should, rubber is sticky, velcro adjusts well, etc.
But the gimmicky bits, that Knucklebox and the Love Bump...WOW that is what allows me to fit in these shoes, and fit SO well.
Taking out the dead space underneath the toes, and giving my long toes space to crimp upwards without 6 months of break-in has been a JOY.
I love 'em. So glad I decided to give them a try.
Demortos will still be my multipitch and trad shoe, but these are going bouldering with me fo' sho.
Enjoy!
View Details: Evolv Shaman Climbing Shoe
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
Change me.



2 Comments Last Reply: January 19, 2012 By: bme4808572
I noticed after a month or so of relatively frequent gym use, my got loose in the heel. It would make a "fart" noise some time when I came off a wall hard on my heel. I sized down a half size and so far, 2 gym sessions in I feel a much better fit in my heel. Time will tell if I need to size down again.
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
Also, it didn't take long for break-in, one long gym session and they feel like home. Time will tell if they start feeling too roomy, but I'm confident the triple velcro will help with that.
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes