Edge Edge Edge

By Alex Chocholousek Ranked #179 - Climbing Shoes June 24, 2011

These shoes are just killer. I just returned from a climbing trip in the Black Hills of South Dakota (unbelievable world-class climbing of all types, by the way), and got the chance to wield these (after breaking in). On technical granite face, these things didn't slip up once. They edged on the smallest of crystals, and stuck to everything. The rubber (typical 5.10 greatness) is simply a minor miracle. They are super stiff at first (although not quite as stiff as the blancos), but softened up with only a couple days of wearing. I can't say anything for durability yet, but they seem to be just bomber. You want to get the sizing right on these, however. My street shoe is an 11 no matter what brand, so I purchased a 10.5 in these, hoping for a comfortable all-day, yet performance (oxymoron?) fit. They were definitely tight, and at the end of long routes (even just 2 or 3 shorter pitches), my toes were hating me. I went up a half to 11, my street shoe size, and they are great for all day, and being so stiff, they don't need to be painfully tight to perform. Just fyi, I have a ridiculously high arch which makes fitting shoes interesting.

All in all, these are just trucker for vertical technical routes. I can't speak for them on overhanging stuff, however, I could see them working. If you are looking for a shoe to climb overhung rock, then these probably aren't at the top of your list anyway as they are not extremely aggressive, at least in the camber.

Highly recommended!

View Details: Five Ten Anasazi Verde Lace-up Climbing Shoe

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