Like the original but beefier

By Jason Halladay Ranked #385 - Climbing Shoes May 12, 2011

This isn't a complete review because I've only climbed six pitches in the Supermoccs but I wanted to give my impression and a note on sizing. I've climbed for years in the original moccasyms and the supermoccs feel identical on my feet. It's a feel I like. I wear a size 13 street shoe and for most of my climbing shoes I size down to 12.5. But for the moccasyms, I've always gone with a full size down (12s) because they do stretch quite a bit over time. I was thinking with the new rubber toe cap on the supermoccs they might stretch less so I went down only a half size from my street shoe size, down to a 12.5. The fit prior to climbing in them was tight and slightly uncomfortable but bearable. After six pitches, though, they already feel quite a bit looser so I'm returning these to go down a full size to a 12. I think that will be perfect and my track record with the original moccasyms backs up my reasoning.

Based on the few pitches I have climbed in them, I expect these to be very similar to the original moccasyms with average edging but great for crack climbing and slabbin'.

EDIT: A month or two later and I found the super thin Mystique rubber wore out super fast forcing me to have a rand replacement done during the first resoling. Love the rubber but really think 5.10 skimped on the thickness for sure.

View Details: Five Ten Supermocc Climbing Shoe

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