Gear Review
Realize your potential
By Simon Hatfield
Ranked #15 - Climbing Shoes
April 18, 2011
These shoes are a seemingly impossible blend of comfort, versatility, and performance. If they weren't $140, they would be the only shoe I wear climbing.
The rubber is astonishingly sticky, and they have unparalleled performance on delicate and thin footwork. They are stiff enough to edge well, but flexible enough for good friction on slab, yet comfortable enough to jam cracks. The key to the comfort is the leather above your "toe knuckles" which is not covered in rubber, and therefore allows your toes to curl comfortably. Thus, you can size these down considerably without pain (after break in).
Mine broke in nicely after about 5 30-45 minute sessions of wearing them while sitting at a desk, then a couple of hours mellow indoor bouldering.
As far as sizing goes, I have 42's (M's 9) which are perfect. I generally wear a 10.5 street shoe, I like a 10 Moccasym (for crack) and like Scarpa Techno's in 43.
View Details: La Sportiva Miura Vibram XS Edge Climbing Shoe - Men's
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