Awesome for crimpy

By Alex Courrau Ranked #1038 - Climbing Shoes March 16, 2010

I got these shoes for christmas, and have had a good three months to use them (3-5 days/week gym & 2 monthly outdoor trips).

They are absolutely AMAZING on the small crimpy stuff, anything on a vertical face is going to feel like a shelf. I've several times been standing on some tiny crimp and felt entirely secure. If your local crag is all vertical or slab, this shoe is the one for you. The 5.10 rubber on this shoe is really durable, and will stick to almost anything.

The downside is that for anything that has any kind of pockets or anything that is past vertical, this shoe is almost useless. The front toe is squared off to be able to grab the small crimpy stuff, but won't fit in anything less than a 3-finger pocket. It has a slight downturn to the toe, but not enough to do you much good on the steep stuff.

In short: If you're not gonna be doing a lot of overhang and will be mostly face climbing, this is the shoe for you. If not, take a look around before you commit to this one.

View Details: Five Ten Rock Wrench Climbing Shoe

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