I am amazed.

By AJ3 Ranked #1262 - Climbing Shoes September 19, 2009

Excellence.. These shoes were designed for climbers with "Morton's Toe" ... a condition where your 2nd metatarsal (index toe) is longer than your first (big toe), so as we Mortons toe climbers know that in our normal size asymmetrical toe boxes cause overly extreme pain on the toes.. even the normal symmetrical toe boxes can be pretty annoying during a climb.

Enter the Evolv Demorto: These shoes do a fantastic job at solving the problem. The symmetrical toe box is a little longer where the second metatarsal fits, and the result is a custom fit for any climber that wants a tad bit more un-cramped room in the toe box. These shoes fit pretty true to size... My size 13 street shoe = 13 climbing shoe.

1. The rubber on these is pretty sticky. I have no problem smearing on the Sandstone at Castle Rock, or the Fakestone at indoor climbing gyms.
2. The rubber outsole design is semi-functional but definitely more useful than nothing. i.e. the heel would work well with/without the heel ridges pattern. (I tend to think a smooth rubber heel would be better for heel hooking surface area, but it does ad cushion and I assume that Evolv did their research).
3. The rubber overlap on the top and sides of the toebox is generous which makes for good underhooks and painless toejamming.
4. The lacing is norm, the dual finger loops/pulltabs are norm.

Weird: These shoes have a pretty flat but generous heel area so it makes a weird noise that tells me there is an air pocket with only half the contact. This is because MY heel sticks out more as opposed to a straight line from my calf to the bottom of my foot perhaps.

I noticed: My feet are somewhat wide on the outside middle section of my feet, and I am slightly flat footed so the leather bulges just a bit which probably leads to air leaks.

Overall, these shoes are great to climb in and so far I would buy them over and over. The only thing is, the Olive Green is kinda weird.. the Slate Grey looked way better.. Blue or orange would be awesome.

View Details: Evolv Demorto Climbing Shoe

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