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Gear Review
Black Diamond Oval Carabiner
Great For Certain Things
By James C Watts
Ranked #5 - Carabiners, Quickdraws, and Belay Devices
July 12, 2009
For general purpose climbing biners, better designs have been around for some time now, but there are still a few things that these ovals are good for. I don't aid climb, so I can't speak to that, but I find that these are still the best choice for racking wires. The oval shape allows them to hold many pieces comfortably, and the huge gate notch can prevent a stray wire from falling off the biner when opening it. Also, these make a handy bail biner that is a bit less painful to leave up on a tough sport route than a $12 Helium or the like.
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