The ATC-XP is solid,

By Jordan P. Ranked #461 - Belay and Rappel Devices July 21, 2005

At first I thought the teeth might just a gimmick to charge a little more for a fancy-looking ATC, but I thought I'd try it out. My climbing partners have about 60 lbs on me (I'm 5'3"/120) and I thought something that would increase the friction when I lock-off would be great. This ATC really delivered! Of course other Black Diamond ATCs don't slip when you lock-off correctly, but this one holds just as much without having to try as hard to maintain a steep angle, which can be tiring if you're using it all day. Better to save your energy for the climb. And for the times I belay someone more than my size I just flip it and use the regular friction side.

View Details: Black Diamond ATC-XP Belay Device

Helpful Votes: 1 Yes