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A Question about Black Diamond ATC Guide

By none on April 21, 2008

Are these more versatile than grigris?

Answer to "Are these more versatile than grigris?"

By , , , , on September 14, 2008

In trying to add information to this, I accidentally deleted theonlyreal's answer. In any case, I think it can be more versatile overall since you are able to use it as a rappel device. However, when comparing it with a GriGri, you're not really comparing apples to apples. There is an auto-lock feature that you can use when belaying a second from the top, but the device does not auto-lock when belaying a leader or a top-roper from the bottom.

The other problem with Grigris, is the rope width. You want to get that super sweet 8.5 mm rope and if you start falling the grigri will let that rope slide on through. I would never use a grigri on a rope smaller than 10mm, so for a catch all regardless atc it up. Cheap but not bad by any means.

also when using with groups first time users may pull the lever to try and prevent a fall . This actually realeases the auto lock . I strongly caution any belayer to maintain a firm, controlled grip on the "brake" end of the rope coming out of the GriGri as any device can fail or the rope may be too small, and having control of the brake end can allow the belayer to safely lower the climber in such a situation using only the sliding friction of the device (i.e. - as if the brake were fully open). In summation - NEVER let go of the brake end of the rope ATC or GriGri. I've seen ropes slide through GriGri's before. They are safe, but not foolproof. Happy Climbing!
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