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I just received a set of these and the question I have is what...
By the4847113
Ranked #135 - Carabiners, Quickdraws, and Belay Devices
August 28, 2011
I just received a set of these and the question I have is what side goes to the bolt? Experimenting, the more rigid side of the dog-bone (rubber grommet in it) seems to hold it's position on the bolt and not flop around so as to have a cross gate bind or other unwanted bolt hold. In this position, it also seems to allow more twist at the rope end to prevent a cross gate opening. The main reason I'm asking is that all of the photos show them clipped just the opposite of what I seem a safer clip in. Am I missing something... another buddy of mine has experimented with my set and supports my feelings on the matter... I'm all ear's. Please share your thoughts on these.... especially if you have put them through some tests of your own...
View Details: Black Diamond FreeWire Quickdraw
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
By tyl4059430
Ranked #192 - Carabiners, Quickdraws, and Belay Devices
March 20, 2012
Also, clipping a loose biner is an absolute pain. it may end up upside down after dangling on your harness, and that can piss you off if your really tired.
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
By the4847113
Ranked #135 - Carabiners, Quickdraws, and Belay Devices
August 28, 2011
Thanks Ryan. Just like in the photo's... I appreciate your help.. Went out yesterday but ended up top roping and bouldering.... Out to some bolts in the Hillsborough Canyon next week... thanks again..
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
By Ryan Hamilton
Ranked #3 - Carabiners, Quickdraws, and Belay Devices
August 28, 2011
You want the "floppy" end to go on the bolt so it can move around with the rope. If you fall on it the rope will always be facing the correct direction. This also reduces rope drag, which can get pretty bad after a half dozen bolts.
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
Change me.



