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Gear Question
size #1-2 only hold 2 kn according to the specs. is that strong...
By caleb
Ranked #321 - Big Wall Climbing
May 26, 2010
size #1-2 only hold 2 kn according to the specs. is that strong enough to hold a lead fall? or would it be used for something like a belay that doesn't exert a lot of force on the stopper?
View Details: Black Diamond Stopper Set Pro #1-13
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
By Shane O'Donnell
Ranked #186 - Big Wall Climbing
May 27, 2010
Pretty much they are designed for body weight only placements. Made mostly for aid climbing. I would never trust it to hold a lead fall, nor would I trust it for a belay. In the belay, if your leader falls, it will pull you up, meaning a much higher force than just sitting on it.
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
By Alex King
Ranked #56 - Big Wall Climbing
May 26, 2010
I think that the product literature specifies "aid only" for most small gear with low strength ratings (2kN is only 450lbs of force) This applies to all pro, active and passive with low strength ratings. That said, people still climb on small pro when its the only thing they can place, and while I have never fallen on anything with a strength rating below 6kN, I have seen others fall on small pieces and not pull/break the piece.
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
Change me.



