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James C Watts

Skier // Climber // Backpacker // Hiker // Snowshoer

James C Watts: #76 of 93,385 Top 100 Gear Guru More Information

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  • Stomping Grounds:

    Colorado Front Range (Boulder)
  • Bio:

    Software engineer who pretends to be a climber from time to time.

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Kayland MXT Boot - Women's

July 23, 2009

It depends on the binding system that your crampons utilize. These boots are "semi-automatic" crampon compatible, meaning that they have a spot for a heel bail, but no toe bail. In other words, if your crampons have the plastic toe basket (the "Sabertooth Clip") on the front, these should work fine, but if they have a wire bail (the "Sabertooth Pro"), then they are not compatible with this boot.

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Excellent For Sport / Rappelling

Metolius PAS Personal Anchor System w/ Element Locking Carabiner

Metolius PAS Personal Anchor System w/ Element Locking Carabiner

Rating for this product: 5 July 12, 2009

I use this for anchoring to bolts at the top of single pitch sport climbs, which it works quite well for. Probably my favorite application of this is for extending my belay device for rappels. I clip my belay biner through *both* the first little hole and the first "chain link", then when I'm ready to rappel I simply clip the PAS biner to my harness waist loop, creating a secure and redundant connection, which will keep me safe even in the (extremely unlikely) event that my belay loop or this sling fails. Also, this makes it easy to clip my "third hand" prussic directly to my belay loop. Note that this is not really designed to attach to anchors for belaying on multi-pitch routes, as the rope that is already tied to you is far superior for that purpose.

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Perfect Size Of Dyneema

Black Diamond Dynex Sewn Runners

Black Diamond Dynex Sewn Runners

Rating for this product: 5 July 12, 2009

I love little dental floss slings, but I find the durability of the 8mm Mammuts leaves something to be desired (though those are very nice as well, just need to be replaced more often). I think that Black Diamond has found the perfect compromise between size and durability with their 10mm slings. These really are excellent slings, and I'm slowly replacing all my other slings with these, other than the two nylon slings I use for carrying gear (these are a bit skinny and uncomfortable for shoulder carry of a heavy rack, which is probably the only use they aren't ideal for).

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Solid Belay Biner

Petzl William Locking Carabiner

Petzl William Locking Carabiner

Rating for this product: 5 July 12, 2009

This is my go-to belay biner for tube devices, as it handles rappelling on even the biggest 11mm fatty singles with ease, and also makes a nice large power point biner on anchors. Plus, the round bar stock is easy on ropes and provides plenty of friction. I might go for something a bit smaller if I have to lug it up a mountain, but for cragging and gym climbing this is a great biner.

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Good Small HMS Biner

DMM Sentinel HMS Locking Carabiner

DMM Sentinel HMS Locking Carabiner

Rating for this product: 4 July 12, 2009

I have one of these that I've used for various things, including belaying and for the end of my PAS sling, and it works well, but I prefer something slightly larger for belaying with. It also works well with a Munter on small cords, but is probably a bit small for anything over 9mm or so (although it is quite good for a self rescue biner for use with PMMO hitches tied with cordalette and the like). Since I upgraded all my rigging biners to Shadow lockers, it now lives on the rope end of a locking draw, which it also works well for. It does have the sexy feel typical of all DMM biners.

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Good For Certain Tasks

Petzl Am'D Locking Carabiner

Petzl Am'D Locking Carabiner

Rating for this product: 4 July 12, 2009

I have a couple of these with the Tri-act gate, and find them very useful for certain things. I wouldn't use mine with a tube device or for rigging anchors (though I'm sure they would work fine), but they work great for a GriGri and are nice because they always stay locked and are easy to visually confirm. Also, I use one on a Mini-Traxion for solo top rope, which works well because (again) it stays locked when moving around with it, and the pulley has no trouble swinging around on the biner to load it in the proper orientation in case I fall on it.

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Not Bad

Black Diamond Quicksilver Screwgate Carabiner

Black Diamond Quicksilver Screwgate Carabiner

Rating for this product: 3 July 12, 2009

Not a bad biner by any means, though there are certainly better options available. Due to the gate notch, I wouldn't use these for rigging anchors or for the bolt end on a draw, but I use a couple for the rope end on locking draws and they work fine for that. Plus, the price is right, so you can afford to get a couple extras to use if you run out of nicer biners. All in all, nothing special, but they work and are cheap.

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Great For Racking Cams

Black Diamond Neutrino Rackpack - 6 Pack

Black Diamond Neutrino Rackpack - 6 Pack

Rating for this product: 4 July 12, 2009

I'm one of those people who prefer that my racking biners match my cams in color, so these were the natural choice to go with my C4s. I find that it makes it much easier to pick the size of cam I need off a crowded rack without fidgeting. These biners are light and small, and make for a good trad draw. Due to the size and notched gate, I would look elsewhere for sport draw biners, but these are great for trad. Plus, the price is right, especially if you need lots of biners (and who doesn't?).

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Great Trad Biner

Black Diamond Neutrino Carabiner

Black Diamond Neutrino Carabiner

Rating for this product: 4 July 12, 2009

A well made and very light wire gate biner that works well for trad draws and racking cams. I definitely wouldn't consider these for sport draws due to the small size and notched nose, but when you need to carry a giant trad rack full of biners all the way up a mountain, these are tough to beat. Plus, the price is right, especially if you need a bunch of them.

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Great For Certain Things

Black Diamond Oval Carabiner

Black Diamond Oval Carabiner

Rating for this product: 4 July 12, 2009

For general purpose climbing biners, better designs have been around for some time now, but there are still a few things that these ovals are good for. I don't aid climb, so I can't speak to that, but I find that these are still the best choice for racking wires. The oval shape allows them to hold many pieces comfortably, and the huge gate notch can prevent a stray wire from falling off the biner when opening it. Also, these make a handy bail biner that is a bit less painful to leave up on a tough sport route than a $12 Helium or the like.

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Metolius Simulator CNC Training Board

July 7, 2009

Should be fine, though I imagine UV from the sun will probably damage it eventually, so a shady place would probably be best.

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Osprey Packs Kestrel 28 Daypack - 1600-1700cu in

July 7, 2009

Pack fitting is generally pretty hard to do over the internet, but that being said, I would say the S/M size should fit you fine.

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Black Diamond Stoppers

June 22, 2009

I haven't had this problem myself, but looking at one of mine, I would say shrink tubing would probably work best, but electrical tape would probably work fine in a pinch as well. Also, this shouldn't effect the strength of the piece (though might make it a pain on the rack), but if there is any doubt, replace it. A $9 wire is not worth your life, or even the doubt in your head while shaking and pumped out 15 feet above it.

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La Sportiva Makalu Mountaineering Boot - Men's

June 22, 2009

I have these boots myself. If anything, it sounds like you need to size down. If the boots are moving on your feet so much that they are causing blisters, they are too large. Also, if your toes are sliding forward and hitting the toe box, the boot is clearly not tight enough on your foot. Size down, not up.

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La Sportiva Glacier EVO Mountaineering Boot - Women's

May 27, 2009

I don't have this exact boot, but all the Sportiva mountain boots (including the ones I own) run pretty much true to size.

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Mammut Infinity Climbing Rope - 9.5mm

May 27, 2009

From the Mammut ropes information booklet:
"All dynamic ropes from Mammut come with a friction resistant, coloured, middle marking. In choosing a process we made sure that a dye was used that wouldn’t weaken either the sheath or the core filaments. "

I don't have this particular rope, but all of the Mammut ropes I've seen (including the one I own) have two six inch (or so) long black dye marks to signify the (approximate) center of the line.

ETA: Unless, of course, you go for the Duodess model, which changes sheath pattern at the middle point.

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Petzl DUO LED 5 Headlamp

May 26, 2009

According to Petzl's Technical Notice for this lamp, it produces 40 lumens from the LED array. For some reason, they do not provide the output rating of the halogen bulb.

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Platypus Big Zip SL Hydration Bladder

May 26, 2009

Most larger packs (larger day packs or multi-day packs) that are "bladder compatible" should hold a 3 liter bladder fine. However, many "hydration only" packs (i.e. small camelbaks and the like) are built around a particular size of bladder, and probably wouldn't hold anything larger.

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La Sportiva Testarossa Climbing Shoe

May 26, 2009

These are a very aggressive shoe, with a very down-turned toe for excellent performance on steep and overhanging routes. This shoe is probably best for bouldering and sport climbing, as it wouldn't be comfortable enough (for me) to be an all day affair. Of course, the level of aggressive vs. comfortable also depends on how the shoe is sized.

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I Dare You To Wear It Out

Petzl Ecrin Roc Climbing Helmet

Petzl Ecrin Roc Climbing Helmet

Rating for this product: 5 May 12, 2009

What more can be said about the venerable Ecrin Roc? There is a reason that this is the helmet that SAR personnel choose almost exclusively. It works well, is well designed, and will last forever, even when subjected to the rigors of daily use in the mountains. It does not protect from side and front impact as well as a polystyrene foam helmet will (the Ecrin Roc is primarily designed to protect from things falling on you, as opposed to you falling onto other things), but certainly provides a decent level of protection against all head-busting impacts. The exchangeable foam headbands are nice (I use the thick one in summer, and change to the thinner one when I anticipate wearing a beanie underneath), and the helmet adjusts nicely for a secure but comfortable fit. It also holds a headlamp securely and in a usable position. Over all, the best of the best. Buy one of these, and never need another helmet again.

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Good Small HMS Biner

Petzl Attache Locking Carabiner

Petzl Attache Locking Carabiner

Rating for this product: 4 May 12, 2009

I carry one of these on my harness at all times, and it's great for a variety of purposes. I use it for belaying with smaller ropes (though I switch to a larger biner for big singles), and it is also quite good for general rigging (thanks to the snag-less gate). My main use for it is as a self-rescue biner, because it is small and compact enough to carry at all times (I also carry my prusik loops and chap-stick on it), but the basket is large enough to hold a Munter on twin 8mm cord (such as when constructing a load-releasing hitch out of a cordalette), which makes it very useful for belay escapes and knot passing. All in all, a very nice piece of kit, which gets 4 stars only because it is heavier than other comparable biners due to the large, rope-friendly bar stock it is constructed of.

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Excellent, Versatile Jacket

Mountain Hardwear WindStopper Tech Jacket - Men's

Mountain Hardwear WindStopper Tech Jacket - Men's

Rating for this product: 5 May 11, 2009

I've used this jacket climbing, backpacking / winter camping, and skiing, and it really is excellent for all purposes. Amazingly warm for it's weight, it excels as an outer layer while moving or resting, and works equally well under a shell for nasty weather or skiing. It blocks wind very well, and is easy to vent out (thanks to the pit zips) when working hard. Plus, it packs up nice and small (for a fleece). I'd say the only downside is that it picks up cat hair pretty quick, but I guess it adds to the warmth...

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It Works

Metolius Freenut Nut Tool w/Palm Protector

Metolius Freenut Nut Tool w/Palm Protector

Rating for this product: 4 April 17, 2009

This nut tool works well for removing stuck pro (don't they all?). The integrated "carabiner" works pretty well, and I've never had a problem with it. Also, the palm protector is a nice (but optional) feature. Only downside (as compared to something like the Pro-Key) is that you have to tie your own leash, but this takes about one minute and a couple of feet of spare cordage. Overall, nothing amazing, but works well for it's intended purpose.

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Great For Top Rope Soloing

Petzl Mini Traxion Pulley

Petzl Mini Traxion Pulley

Rating for this product: 5 April 16, 2009

I use one of these as part of my solo top roping system, and it works very well. Feeds smoothly and with little effort, and catches positively when weighted. I've never done any hauling with it, but I imagine it would work pretty well for anything under 50 pounds or so. Of course, like any "toothed" cam device, this can remove the sheath from your rope in short order if you subject it to heavy dynamic loading, so (like any rock climbing equipment), proper training and a sufficiently redundant system are mandatory prerequisites of use. Over all, a very well built and versatile piece of gear.

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Good Belay Gloves

Petzl Cordex Belay/Rappel Glove

Petzl Cordex Belay/Rappel Glove

Rating for this product: 4 April 16, 2009

These gloves work well for catching big whippers without roasting your hands up (rope burn is no fun). They're very tough, but thin enough that you can manage biners and knots without taking them off (although undoing really tight overhands or fig8s might require removal). Also, they work pretty well keeping your hands warm while belaying / hiking / sitting around in slightly chilly conditions. Plus, the clip hole is convenient for racking them on your harness for multi-pitch climbs. Obviously, they work pretty well for rappelling too. Quite good overall.

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Much Better Than Other Squeezers

Metolius Gripsaver Plus

Metolius Gripsaver Plus

Rating for this product: 5 April 16, 2009

I was skeptical at first, but this thing really does work well! I had a pretty bad case of tendinitis in my elbows and forearms, and using this seemed to help with the pain and keeping my grip strength up while I was sidelined from climbing. Obviously, the unique aspect of this product is the finger loop rubber band, which provides resistance when extending the fingers as well as when closing them. I think that's what makes this stand out among the millions of squishy grip trainers out there. Even after my tendons healed up, I've continued using it from time to time, mostly just sitting at my desk at work.

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Great Lightweight Insulation

MontBell Ultralight Thermawrap Vest - Men's

MontBell Ultralight Thermawrap Vest - Men's

Rating for this product: 5 April 16, 2009

One of my favorite pieces of insulation, I use this through all four seasons, and it has found an almost permanent place in my pack. It's so light and compact (just bigger than a can of soda when stuffed down) that it's hard to justify not carrying it. Works great as part of a winter layering system, and I find myself wearing it both on the trail (with a light wind shell or hard shell) and at camp (under a MontBell Alpine Down jacket). It adds quite a bit of warmth for it's size, without leaving you with sweat pouring down your arms. Also, I tend to carry it in my summer day packs as a "just in case" insulation layer, where anything heavier would be extreme overkill. Being built with typical MontBell quality (awesome), I've put a couple of hard years on this thing and it's no worse for the wear. Note however that the outer shell is very light fabric, meaning that you should refrain from bushwhacking while wearing it as an outer layer, as it could easily tear on a sharp twig or branch. That being said, I haven't "babied" mine at all, and it has held up really well (better than I expected).

Helpful Votes: 1 Yes | 0 No

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Osprey Packs Argon 85 Backpack - 5100-5500cu in

April 15, 2009

I would say it depends on the type of terrain and climates you're expecting on encountering. If you like plenty of pockets and straps, and plan on carrying monster weights (60+ lbs) on mostly on-trail hiking, I would probably go for the Argon. However, for more off-trail or vertical type excursions, I would much prefer the Aether for it's streamlined shape and light weight. Keep in mind that in the 85L versions, these are monster packs, capable of carrying a whole lot of gear. I would say either would be good for at least a week in the winter, probably twice or three times that in warmer weather, if not more. Both will serve you very well for many years to come.

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Primus EtaPower EF Trail Stove

April 15, 2009

The Isobutane / propane mix canisters that all canister stoves use are non-refillable. Once empty, however, they can smashed almost flat like a soda can (just make sure it's empty first). In this way, it's fairly easy to pack out empties. Also, I believe that most brands are made of steel, and are recyclable. Hope this helps.

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Therm-a-Rest Neoair Sleeping Pad

April 15, 2009

According to Thermarest's website, this pad has an R value of 2.5, compared to R3.8 of the ProLite Plus (the new version of the ProLite 4). In other words, this pad does not have nearly the insulating power of the open-cell foam mats, but, as you noted, a significant weight advantage.

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Brunton Bantam Liquid Fuel Stove

April 14, 2009

Generally white gas stoves do not come with the fuel bottle, because several sizes of bottle are available depending on the intended usage. Although the specs (both here and on the Brunton website) don't make this totally clear, unless a white gas stove specifically states that it includes the bottle, it's a safe bet that it doesn't.

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The North Face Chrysalis Sleeping Bag: 15 Degree Down

April 14, 2009

It really depends on the conditions you are anticipating. For shoulder seasons (early spring / late fall), I've found the Thermarest ProLite 4 to work quite well and to be adequately warm. If you're going out in full winter conditions or anticipate sleeping on snow, I would add a cheap closed cell foam pad as well. It is somewhat of a subjective topic though, and everyone will have different opinions on what works for them.

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MontBell Super Stretch #1 Hugger Sleeping Bag: 15 Degree Down

April 14, 2009

MontBell uses a very thin (40D) nylon treated with DWR (Durable Water Resistance) for the outer shell of these bags. Small amounts of water will bead up and roll off of the fabric, but it will wet through eventually (such as being pressed against a wet tent wall). Down bags can be tricky to wash, and there are several methods for doing so at home, or you can find cleaners who will be able to wash it for you.

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Redfeather Snowshoes Trek 360 Snowshoe

December 1, 2008

Any of the touring snow shoes should be fine for your parents. I would avoid the MSR style mono-frame shoes, as in my experience those are neither as easy or enjoyable to use. As for weight, most manufacturers have a maximum recommended weight, but it's really a balance between usability and packability. A larger snow shoe (within reason, of course) will always be better for on-trail touring where you don't have tight turns between trees and such. My personal favorite is the Atlas 12 series, which I have the 30 inch version of. I've never had a problem with flotation with them, even when my combined weight (body + pack) is pushing over 200 pounds.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes | 0 No

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Great Slings

Mammut Dyneema Contact Sling - 8mm

Mammut Dyneema Contact Sling - 8mm

Rating for this product: 5 November 28, 2008

These are great all purpose slings at very low weight and bulk. They make killer alpine draws (way less bulky than nylon when doubled), but I get the most use out of the 180cm that I keep tied in an equalizing quad. Makes setting up belays off of two bolts a snap and is strong enough to hang you and your truck. These things are really great for everything, as long as you keep their limitations in mind (these things are skinny, so you don't want them rubbing against rock or sharp edges. Also, even though the jury is still out on this one, you should probably never girth hitch these to other slings).

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Nice Draw Slings

Petzl Express Quickdraw Sling

Petzl Express Quickdraw Sling

Rating for this product: 4 November 28, 2008

I use these because I prefer nylon over Dyneema for sport draws. No complaints here: They're solid, durable and work with any biner I've tried them with (mine are set up with WC Helium rope end and DMM Shadow bolt end... sweet draw). Also, note that Petzl at some point redesigned the String (the rubber biner holder on one end) so that it is more robust and no longer held on by the tiny 2mm rubber sections. The new version is much superior to the old. I would give these five stars, but really it's just a sewn chunk of nylon, nothing too special about it. That being said, if you need draws and want nylon, don't hesitate to get these, they're the best out there.

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Excellent Lightweight Cord

Mammut Phoenix Climbing Rope - 8mm

Mammut Phoenix Climbing Rope - 8mm

Rating for this product: 5 November 28, 2008

I don't ever climb on doubles, but I use this rope for light alpine duty as a single (not recommended or condoned by manufacturer), and also as a rap line or rap tag line. This rope is solid, has a nice hand, and is about as durable as you would expect an 8mm Mammut to be (that is, surprisingly). Best of all, it's light when you're carrying it on your back (as light or lighter than 8mm Perlon and more versatile). Not too slippery to rap or belay, either. All in all, a great rope for it's intended purposes. If this is all that's keeping you from the void, there's going to be some "clench" factor, but it still beats having nothing by a long shot!

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Nicest BC Shovel Yet

Black Diamond Deploy 7 Shovel

Black Diamond Deploy 7 Shovel

Rating for this product: 5 November 28, 2008

I haven't used this shovel to extract any avalanche victims (thankfully), but I have no doubt that it's up to the task. This shovel is nice and light (though necessarily somewhat bulky), has a blade size that balances snow movement with portability well, and has a very clever handle design. No more taking off your gloves to search through your pack for your shovel handle then spending more time assembling everything together. Just pull the Deploy from your shovel pocket and yank on the handle, the shovel does the rest. The handle is fairly short, so you're not going to want to use this thing all day, but for a quick snow cave, trench, or wind break around your tent, it works great, even in crusty hard snow. Regarding the handle "slop" noted by other reviewers, I honestly think this is something you'll notice in your living room when you open the package, but isn't noticeable or detrimental when actually using the shovel. Overall, I wouldn't hesitate to say that this is the finest back country snow shovel on the market.

Helpful Votes: 3 Yes | 1 No

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Excellent Bivy Sack

Black Diamond Tripod Bivy Bag

Black Diamond Tripod Bivy Bag

Rating for this product: 4 November 28, 2008

This thing isn't so much a bivy sack as it is as mini-micro tent. I really dig this bivy because I can't sleep with fabric or netting hanging in my face like you get with a regular "no-pole" bivy. This one gives you a tiny amount to move around or partially sit up, and keeps the bivy fabric up off you and your bag, which reduces condensation (more air flow through the sack). It certainly isn't roomy inside, but fits a 15 degree down bag with me (6'1" 160) in it without trouble. Fairly easy to set up once you get the hang of it, but you should probably try it in your living room before headed out to the mountains, which you will have to anyways, and why I gave this only four stars: A $300 bivy really should come taped / sealed from the factory, but this one doesn't. Be prepared to spend at least a couple of hours crouched over with a tube of seam grip, because you have to manually seal every last seam on this thing to make it truly waterproof. Other than that minor inconvenience, this really is a well thought out and executed product.

Disclaimer: My review is for the older Bibler model of this bivy sack, although I don't believe anything has changed other than the brand name.

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Awesome Winter / Altitude Tent

Mountain Hardwear Trango 2 Tent 2-Person 4-Season

Mountain Hardwear Trango 2 Tent 2-Person 4-Season

Rating for this product: 5 November 7, 2008

This tent is awesome for winter camping and high altitude adventures. It's too heavy to be a very good summer tent, but I have slept in it in all seasons and it works well (just vent it out when it's warm). It really shines when things get cold and nasty. You'll never feel more secure sleeping outside in a blizzard! Super easy to set up even for one person wearing gloves, and plenty roomy for two to sleep and eat comfortably. Vestibules on both ends are large enough to store gear for two and keep everything (relatively) dry, and are also large enough to cook in when things get nasty outside (be careful though!). The worst I've put this tent through so far was a vicious early winter storm at 12,000'. 50-60 mph gusts with over a foot of wet, sticky, heavy snow in less than eight hours (it was coming down). A couple of other folks down the way had their hex tent collapse on them in the middle of the night. Needless to say, they looked pissed when they came by first thing in the morning and found us warm and comfortable inside the Trango 2! Great tent, don't hesitate to get one!

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Great Backup / Signal Lamp

Petzl e+LITE Emergency Headlamp

Petzl e+LITE Emergency Headlamp

Rating for this product: 4 November 7, 2008

I keep one of these clipped on the band of my main headlamp (Princeton Tec Apex Pro) as a backup navigation light and rear-facing position signal (the red strobe works particularly well for this). I haven't used it very often, but it's been clipped up there for a while now and ridden out some nasty weather on the top of my head and still works perfectly. It's not exactly a high powered spot light (surprise surprise) but is plenty bright enough for basic night navigation and camp tasks. Makes a great backup light, and is bright enough to be a primary headlamp for you ultra-light types (but you'll probably need spare batteries for more than a night or so).

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Great Headlamp

Princeton Tec Apex Pro Headlamp

Princeton Tec Apex Pro Headlamp

Rating for this product: 5 November 7, 2008

I upgraded to this lamp from a Petzl Tikka Plus (which is also a great lamp) and have been really happy with it. Bright enough for true night path-finding (unlike a Tikka like unit) and SAR night searches. I don't have a single complaint, and I've put this thing through the ringer. Batteries can be difficult to find at a reasonable price (look for 12 packs of SureFire brand for about $23), but can usually be found at most stores sold as camera batteries if you're in a pinch (although expect to pay dearly for them). This isn't a problem for me though, because I had already "standardized" on CR123s for all my hand-held and gun mounted lights, so the batteries are actually a bonus (plus they work great at really low temps, unlike alkalines). Regarding the control buttons (which I see cause some complaints): They aren't especially easy to use while wearing gloves (and about impossible with heavy mitts), but on the other hand, I've never had the light turn itself on in my pack either. I'd much rather have a lamp that is somewhat difficult to turn on sometimes than one that doesn't come on at all because it's been illuminating the inside of my pack all day, so it doesn't bother me.

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Pretty Awesome

Atlas 12 Series Snowshoe

Atlas 12 Series Snowshoe

Rating for this product: 4 November 7, 2008

I have the Atlas 1230s, and have put them through a couple of decent seasons now with no complaints or problems. They give me plenty of flotation even with a heavy winter pack on (total weight: ~210 lbs), and the bindings are perfect. Easy to put on and adjust, totally secure, and they don't twist around at all, which keeps the snowshoe tracking straight without excessive effort. Plus, the coated nylon straps don't freeze and are pretty easy to manage even when covered with the ice and snow of a long day's walk. These shoes are larger and heavier in the pack than the newer style mono-frame shoes (MSR Ascent), but in my opinion provide much better performance with less fatigue during use (probably due in large part to the "springy" binding system) and much better flotation in deep powder. In other words, if you want to strap some snowshoes to your pack that you might use for a few minutes during a trip, the MSR (or comparable) is probably a better choice, but if you know you're going to be on your snowshoes all day and through all terrain, you can't go wrong with the Atlas 12. It's the Cadillac of snowshoes.

Helpful Votes: 11 Yes | 0 No

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DMM - Best Biners In the World, Hands Down

DMM Shadow Locking Carabiner

DMM Shadow Locking Carabiner

Rating for this product: 5 November 7, 2008

Without question, DMM manufactures the finest carabiners made anywhere in the world today, and these are no exception. I use these for general rigging and for locking draws, and they are awesome. Silky smooth lock and gate action for easy clipping, keyhole notch-less gate closure for snag free operation (great when trying to unclip a draw from a crowded gear sling), and almost unimaginably light weight make these the best general purpose lockers you'll find anywhere. Plus, they're drop dead sexy! Sure, you can get three BD quicksilvers for the same price, but you'll die a little inside every time you try and use one of them. These will set you right! Totally worth the price.

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Best Rope-End Draw Biner Made

Wild Country Helium Clean Wire Carabiner

Wild Country Helium Clean Wire Carabiner

Rating for this product: 5 November 7, 2008

After a fairly extensive search, I found that these are hands-down the best (for me) rope end draw biner currently made. I use these on a Spirit sling with a DMM Shadow on the bolt end, which makes for possibly the nicest draw you can possibly buy (if you can part with the $27 per draw - ouch). These are easy to grab and clip quickly, with a super smooth gate action. Hooded notch-less nose (very cool for a wire gate) makes for snag-free operation, and they're wicked light. Production quality on these is top notch, which is no surprise since they are actually made by DMM for Wild Country. I won't use anything else now!

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Good Rope For The Price

Edelweiss Sharp ARC Climbing Rope - 10.5mm

Edelweiss Sharp ARC Climbing Rope - 10.5mm

Rating for this product: 4 November 7, 2008

As others have noted, this rope doesn't have as nice a hand as a Mammut, but it also doesn't carry the price tag of one, either. It's a bomber rope for top-roping or leading on nasty sharp rock. Like most Edelweiss ropes, this one does seem to get fatter and fatter with use. Mine now feels somewhere between a 10.5 and an 11. This doesn't cause me any stress, but it can be a pain to use with certain belay devices. Over all, a top quality and confidence inspiring rope that makes a great first rope for beginners or work-horse rope for more experienced climbers who don't want to wreck up their $300 shoe lace redpoint rope.

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Wicked Piolet

Grivel Air Tech Evo Ice Axe

Grivel Air Tech Evo Ice Axe

Rating for this product: 5 November 7, 2008

This axe has every feature I wanted: T Rated shaft for confident stomper belays, hot forged head for strength (and sexiness!), and a shaft profile that works well for everything from flat-land walking to steep, hard ice. Bonuses: Stupid light weight, typical excellent Grivel quality (and swanky trademark yellow), feels good in the hand, and a very functional long style leash included. What's not to like?

Helpful Votes: 1 Yes | 0 No

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Good Choice

La Sportiva Katana Climbing Shoe

La Sportiva Katana Climbing Shoe

Rating for this product: 4 November 7, 2008

These are great shoes for tough bouldering and sport problems where you need to stand on a dime size edge and get change to spare. It's also a good all-round shoe for any level of climber, if you can stomach the (typical Sportiva) price tag. I've been climbing the same pair for almost two years now, and haven't noticed any durability problems with mine, although it is about time for a re-sole. Certainly not the most comfortable shoe you'll ever wear, but not too bad either (no bleeding toes). These also have the super deep heel typical to Sportiva's shoes, which some people don't like (doesn't bother me any, though). All in all, I would say this is a great shoe, but should be fitted in person before attempting to buy online.

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Marmot Knows How To Build 'Em

Marmot Pinnacle Sleeping Bag: 15 Degree Down

Marmot Pinnacle Sleeping Bag: 15 Degree Down

Rating for this product: 5 November 7, 2008

I've spent probably 30 nights in this bag now, and don't have a single complaint. Super warm and cozy, even right down around the rated temp (this isn't one of those "15 degree" bags that leave you shivering right below freezing). Full length zipper is great feature (a must, I would say) so you can vent the foot box easily (and you will have to, this is a WARM bag). Nice hood and adjustment cords, although I do have trouble sometimes cinching them down in the dark without a headlamp (but I seem to have problems with that in any bag... maybe I'm just slow). Fairly water resistant shell, although it will wet through against a wet tent wall eventually. Packs down nice and small and is feather light for such a warm bag. Great mild winter / shoulder season bag.

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Edelweiss Ally Single Climbing Rope - 10.3mm

November 6, 2008

For the most part, as ropes get more expensive, they improve in three areas: Durability, handling (knotability?), and helpful features (bi-color or middle and end marks, dry and double-dry coatings, etc). None of these things ruin a day of climbing for me either way, but I do enjoy a nicer rope with more features. Dry coating isn't a factor if you never climb ice, snow, or in the rain, but isn't a bad thing to have in case you get stuck in a surprise storm, as ropes become weakened and very difficult to handle when wet or icy.

Helpful Votes: 3 Yes | 0 No

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Beal Flyer ll Climbing Rope - 10.2 mm

November 6, 2008

Any modern climbing rope, utilized properly, will safely hold up to and including factor 2 falls of a 200 lb climber. Choosing rope diameter is usually a trade off between rope weight and durability. A thick rope will last much longer before needing retirement and is more resistant to cutting on sharp edges, but also weighs more than a thinner rope. Also, a thinner rope is slightly harder to belay with and may require a specialized belay device designed to apply proper friction.

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Sterling Fusion Nitro 9.8mm Rope

November 6, 2008

Like just about every climbing rope on the market today (except for specialty-use ropes for rescue and caving), both the kern and mantle of this rope are woven from Nylon.

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Lighter'n heck

MontBell U.L. Super Stretch Hugger #5 Sleeping Bag: 40 Degree Down

MontBell U.L. Super Stretch Hugger #5 Sleeping Bag: 40 Degree Down

Rating for this product: 5 May 18, 2007

1 lb 3oz (long), stuffs to about the size of a Nalgene. This thing will make any pack you own seem huge after you put it in the bottom. Construction quality is top notch (just like every Montbell product). The "super stretch" system is genius. Space in the bag when you need it, gone when you don't. Certainly not the warmest, puffiest bag out there, but it's not supposed to be. It'll keep you warm enough to get some rest and get back out on the trail. Best of all, this will shave pounds off (and cubic inches) off your back. Top notch product, highly recommended (just like every Montbell product).

Helpful Votes: 5 Yes | 0 No

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These are "The" Boots!

La Sportiva Makalu Mountaineering Boot - Men's

La Sportiva Makalu Mountaineering Boot - Men's

Rating for this product: 5 January 31, 2007

I use these boots for everything from light day hikes to steep snow and ice climbing in crampons, and they perform without fail. They are stiff, durable, adjustable, and comfortable. They are just as "at home" on an easy trail hike as they are on steep mixed climbing routes. Plus, the quality and craftsmanship are top-notch, unlike most of the Chinese mass-produced "boots" which cost just a little less and fall apart within a few months (I'm looking at you Vasque). Do yourself a favor. If you are serious about your outdoor footwear, drop those ratty sundowners and trail runners, and go for the best. Long live La Sportiva!

Helpful Votes: 2 Yes | 0 No

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Great Crampons!

Grivel Air Tech Crampons

Grivel Air Tech Crampons

Rating for this product: 5 January 31, 2007

These are my "go to" choice of crampons for all terrain in the winter. Due to the configuration of the points, they are excellent for flat land walking as well as steep mixed climbing. They are well built, tough, and dependable. All the qualities of a really great tool. Plus, they fit my size 45 La Sportiva Makalus like they were made to be. All in all, a really great crampon. I would choose these over the light aluminum version any day. The ounces saved don't make up for the lowered life span and performance on thin ice and mixed ice/rock.

Helpful Votes: 6 Yes | 0 No

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Inexpensive... That's about it.

Marmot PreCip Jacket - Men's

Marmot PreCip Jacket - Men's

Rating for this product: 2 January 2, 2007

I too was lured to this jacket by the tiny pack size, low weight, and very reasonable price. Seemed too good to be true. Well, it is. This jacket will protect you from minor storms at best (when new). I have one that is 3 months old, basically sitting in my pack until the snows came, very little to no wear. Well, this week the snow came in hard during a night hike. Wet, heavy stuff that falls fast and melts on you just as fast. "No Problem", I figure as I zip on my PreCip. Within 15 minutes of heavy, wet snow (about an inch on our pack covers), the shoulders and hood were totally wet out, and leaking badly. Skip this for anything but casual, summer use. You can't afford to be in the winter backcountry with an inferior, leaking shell such as this!

Helpful Votes: 4 Yes | 2 No

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Warm and Dry... Without holes, Anyway...

Marmot ATV Pant - Men's

Marmot ATV Pant - Men's

Rating for this product: 4 December 22, 2006

These ATV pants are pretty nice. Well fit, good pockets with WR zippers, and the DWR works really well, especially when hiking in snow and ice. Plus, they are quite warm. I layer these over a mid-weight capilene bottom and am nice and warm down to 0 degrees F. However, I didn't find them to be as tough and durable as everyone else says, as I tore a huge hole in the seat of the pants the second time I wore them. This may have been some kind of defect, as I haven't had any problems with the replacements (thanks Backcountry!), but now I am much more careful about the fabric. It's not weak fabric, but certainly not as tough as regular nylon pants.

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Classic - Still the best

Outdoor Research Crocodiles Gaiter - Men's

Outdoor Research Crocodiles Gaiter - Men's

Rating for this product: 5 November 16, 2006

Fits well, don't move around or shift, breathes well, and keeps everything out of your boots. Plus, they're totally bomb-proof. How could they get better?

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Warm and comfy

Pacific Outdoor Equipment InsulMat SL-Mtn Sleeping Pad

Pacific Outdoor Equipment InsulMat SL-Mtn Sleeping Pad

Rating for this product: 4 November 16, 2006

I really like the closed cell foam that Pac Outdoor uses over other types of foam. It is soft, squishy, warm, and LIGHT! My only complaint, as another poster noted, is that the bottom of the foam is pretty soft, and will show scarring from sitting on granite and/or scraping in brush and trees (if tied to the outside of pack). I just cover it with a small nylon rain cover I have for a daypack and then lash it to the front of my pack.

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Well Made and Very Light

Marmot Ion Windshirt - Men's

Marmot Ion Windshirt - Men's

Rating for this product: 5 October 19, 2006

I really like my Marmot Ion windshirt. The Pertex Quantum material stops wind and rain cold, and yet still breathes well enough for high exertion at moderate to cold temperatures. At only 3 or 4 ounces, I carry it in my backpack all the time, whether I'm heading on my next backcountry journey or just going to work. Plus, the jacket stuffs down into it's own chest pocket, so it stays small in your pack without using an extra stuff sack. Really, what's not to like?

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Best 3 Season Mat - EVER

Pacific Outdoor Equipment InsulMat Max-Thermo Sleeping Pad

Pacific Outdoor Equipment InsulMat Max-Thermo Sleeping Pad

Rating for this product: 5 September 18, 2006

Since my purchase, I've only had the chance to use my mat on one trip. That being said, this mat delivers all that it promises. Great comfort, great durability (so far), easy to use, packs up light and small, and reasonably warm for three season use. I slept on one in a Marmot Pinnacle (15 degree) bag at about freezing, and the pad stayed quite warm, allowing my bag to keep me super warm (slept unzipped all night). Highly recommended!

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Spectacular!

Petzl Tikka Plus Headlamp

Petzl Tikka Plus Headlamp

Rating for this product: 5 September 18, 2006

I've used my Tikka Plus once while backpacking, and it is plenty for typical camp tasks, while maintaining a trim figure and an almost unnoticeable weight (with lithium batteries). However, this light really shines (nyuk nyuk) when doing technical night hiking. I've used it in varied terrains, from flat trail walking to craggy granite boulder fields, and this light handles it all. Plenty of throw, and the color is perfect for reading that next boulder you're about to jump too. The LEDs Petzl uses are (IMO) superior to other types, such as those in Princeton Tec lamps, because the color is a true white, instead of the "off-blue" color of the PT and other bulbs. I night-hike with a buddy who uses a Princeton Tec lamp, and the difference really is noticeable. I like this lamp so much, I bought another for my girlfriend to use. 5 stars!

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All You Could Want In A Tarp

Pacific Outdoor Equipment S2 Shelter

Pacific Outdoor Equipment S2 Shelter

Rating for this product: 5 September 18, 2006

Light. Tough. Packs Small. Plenty of Tie-Outs. Great Quality. 'Nuff said.

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