It works great if you're not tall, not wearing a climbing helmet, and not anywhere really windy. While the hood fits over a helmet, you can't close the zipper because your chin will be sticking out the neck of your jacket. I'm 6'2" and the large lifts up a few inches above my belt line when I lift my arms, so for a tall person, it's not the best for ice climbing. It won't stay tucked under a harness for the same reason. In the breathable versus windproof compromise, it errs on the side of breathability. That's probably a good thing, but I've seen it labeled as wind-proof, which isn't true. I give it 5 stars, minus one for the hood that's not big enough for a climbing helmet. But if you're above 6' tall, recognize that it's going to be short. I won this jacket in a drawing and still usually wear a Patagonia Houdini instead, unless I know I'm going to be doing a lot of scraping against rocks.

If you think these screws won't go in because they don't have a $30 spinning doodad on the hanger, think again. Once you get the screw started, press the circular cupped part at the center of your palm against the arched part of the ergonomic hanger. Then twist your arm in a circular motion, like you're waxing a car. The ergonomic hanger will spin in your cupped palm just as fast as the Petzl, Grivel or BD Turbo Express screws, but with an added benefit: Because you're pushing on the screw closer to the tube (i.e., not at the end of some long spinner on the hanger), more energy goes to pushing it into the ice.

Carrying a few of the Grivel screws is prudent, since they fit between features, but the simple BD ones will take you far. Plus, with the all money you save, you can buy a donkey or something to carry your gear for you on the approach.

Best winter tent I've used. If you're worried about the rain getting through, bring a silnylon tarp and drape it over the tent, or guy it out overhead. The tent plus a tarp still weighs less than a normal tent, and you can always use the tarp for a vestibule. The tent packs down to the size of two Nalgenes. On clear nights, you can unzip the entire wall for ventilation (though this does end up with a lot of unruly fabric). Lots of headroom.