Not sure about dry graphite, although I believe it would work (never tried it myself), but one thing I would recommend is cleaning it as thoroughly as possible with a nylon brush, dish soap (or pack soap) and water. I would then lightly lube it with silicon (find it an any hardware store). You don't want too much as it will attract dirt, but a light coating will allow it slide smoothly with less abrasion. The abrasion is what wears out the sliders and can damage the teeth. This is also a good idea for tents, packs, etc.

Yes, they come in a set of 4. They are nearly unbendable and weigh about as much as 4 paperclips. They have polycarbonate heads so it will persuade the user to not bash them with a big rock. The key is that they're more than adequate holding your tent to the ground as long as you don't abuse them. Lightest stake currently on the market...

Absolutely! The material, though flexible, is very similar in performance as other plastic bottles like Nalgene. There is zero taste whether you leave the bottle in the sun or use hot liquids. You can also place in the freezer (making sure you don't over-fill the bottle) if you so desire. They are incredibly durable, light, and will not absorb chemicals, tastes, etc. Hands down the best ultra-light backpacking water bottle on the market!

I would also add that filtering the water first and them chemically treating it takes away the 'dwell time' disadvantage. Because viruses are so easily taken care of with chemicals, and the fact that filtration takes out protozoa, bacteria, etc, all you have to wait is a total of 5 minutes to get purified water. Super importante=> always filter first, then add the chemical.

As has already been mentioned, adding the right chemical (Cascade Designs makes Sweetwater Solution which is a diluted sodium hypochlorite designed primarily for free-floating virus) will result in zero chlorine smell or taste when compared to chlorine dioxide tablets.

This is the least expensive of the Thermarest NeoAir pads and designed for 3-season backpacking (anything above freezing). If you want a warmer pad, I would go for the NeoAir All-Season. It has an R-Value of 4.9. This will easily be able to take you to about 0 degrees (if you have a 0 degree bag). It is more expensive, but it uses higher-end materials to get to that rating.

The Nook uses MSR's best materials (only the Carbon Reflex 1,2,3 and Nook uses these materials). It is a very tightly woven material using very small threads. The result is a light weight, but strong tent material (20D, 330T). The mesh is unique as well because it is a 20D thread (unlike most who use 30D). This results in a softer hand, slightly lighter weight, and tinier holes for bugs to get through. The smallest bugs (no-see-ums) can't get through so you should be free from bugs IF you keep the door closed. It is exceptional in being lightweight, but roomy for this class of tents.

I would go with the Sealline Kodiak Tapered Dry Bag. It is made from 220D Cordura (very durable), has a purge valve allowing the bag to get smaller instead of fighting the extra air inside the bag (which takes up valuable space), and the tapered shape makes it easier to fit into the nose or stern of the kayak. It comes in 20L, 35L Long, and 35L Wide sizes. http://www.backcountry.com/sealline-kodiak-taper-dry-bag

The culprit is hot air in and then cooling off over the course of the night. It is far more noticeable in air-only mattresses when compared to foam-based mattresses. No need to worry about leaks as this is very common. I simply get up, put a few more puffs in the pad and go back to sleep. Once I understood the reasons why and prepared my mind for it, it stopped becoming an issue. I simply prepared myself for blowing a few more breaths in it at night. It was amazing how much better I slept when I didn't worry if my $160 mattress didn't have a small leak!

I can also guarantee that there aren't any micro leaks or sketchy valves. If there were, the pad would be completely flat in about an hour's time. If it's simply loosing some air pressure, but not an alarming amount, then there shouldn't be any leaks.

You are correct. This mug is stainless steel and can be removed from it's insulative housing. The entire mug is dishwasher safe. I love this mug because it is as light as a double-wall ti mug (over 2X more expensive), can fit any hand size, packs away very easily, is super durable, and easy to drink from.

The Remix Pro is able to take a rechargeable CR123 battery (just confirmed with Princeton Tec). The reason is the Remix Pro uses voltage regulated circuitry which essentially regulates the amount of electricity into the LEDs. Because of this regulation, and one issue with lithium rechargeable batteries, the circuitry won't allow for a burst of energy which can have the potential of burning out LEDs. You should be fine using rechargeables...

The MSR Ti-Cup is way too small to fit any other cup inside. I would say it's about 2 inches diameter. The capacity is only about 12 oz. The only thing fitting in it is possibly a foldable utensil set or pack towel. This cup will fit inside the MSR Titan Kettle perfectly however if you want one of the lightest cook set setups available.

The other great thing about this fry pan is that it's, first, aluminum which is the best material (based on weight vs. heat distribution) for an even heat cooking surface. It's also hard anodized which also helps in its heat distribution. The quality of these materials is very high-end.

Finally the teflon coating is one of the more durable available making sure the stuff your cooking doesn't stick, and then cleans up quickly.

I agree with Andrew in that it also depends highly on the stove. If you get a good one (my recommendation is the WindPro or DragonFly) you will be able to cook anything that you do on your home stove.

This tent was not designed to use just the fly, poles, and footprint. As you probably surmised, It was primarily designed for winter mountaineering use. Because of the pole configuration, it proved to be very difficult to design this tent where the fly and poles would easily mount to the footprint. Because of the complication, the thought was this tent should be very task specific and made extremely reliable under intense weather conditions, but without trying to give it options for lighter weight, 3-season usage. This had the potential of possibly affecting it's primary mission. It can be used for 3-season backpacking due to the uncoated fabric on the body of the tent (does very well with condensation), but it's primary use is for more weather-intense scenarios.

It will! Because the Carbon Reflex 2 has the same dimensions as the Hubba Hubba, you shouldn't have any problems. I've used this several times and have grown to love it! It's worth the extra weight for me because it provides a huge area for my pack and other gear, especially when I have a tent mate. It's really easy to set up as well. It does come with Needle Stakes.

The only thing you should be aware of is it can develop condensation, much more than inside the tent. It does have adequate ventilation, but if things are extra wet, you might get dripping inside.

I love the addition it has provided and it makes living in the backcountry that much more pleasant. I would highly recommend it!

The half-an-inch of the Prolite Plus does add a noticeable difference in comfort. However, if weight is the major issue, the Prolite will be adequate. I've spent many nights on the Prolite and have been satisfied by the results. It packs super small, is resonably comfortable for it's size and weight, and gives me enough warmth from the ground (even in the summer time) to allow me to sleep well. I personally use the NeoAir as it is smaller, lighter, and much more comfortable, but it's also more expensive and isn't self-inflatable. If I where you, I would ask myself what are my greatest needs/wants? If size and weight trump comfort, then the Prolite is great. If comfort beats out the rest, then the Prolite Plus is the best option. And if size, weight, and comfort allow you to spend a bit more, then the NeoAir is the best of all the options.

It should. The dimensions haven't changed for any of the sizes over the years. Also, the Camp N' Carry Bag has been made a bit larger to accommodate pads that aren't rolled up super tight. The width is also a tad bigger just to make it easier to pack. I don't think you should have any problem getting this to work with your pad.

Although the Osprey Atmos Series of packs are good, I would encourage you to check out the Granite Gear Vapor Day Pack. It's lighter, more comfortable, and more durable than the Osprey. Lighter, because it doesn't have the complicated frame of the Osprey. More comfortable because of the 2 layers of foam in the backpanel, wastebelt, and shoulder straps (vs. the die-cut, single layer foam of the Atmos), and more durable based on the stretch woven (think Schoeller Dynamic) material on the backpanel (vs. mesh on the back of the Osprey), 100% Cordura branded materials used (Osprey uses a variety of materials not all of which are made from Cordura threads), and very good construction (Osprey does a great job at this as well).

The Granite Gear Vapor Day Pack is arguably the best day pack available. It can carry up to 30lbs comfortable and weighs in at 2lb 2oz. (full lb. lighter than the Atmos 50). It's also $50 less! Check it out here: http://www.granitegearstore.com/Vapor-Day-P115C29.aspx.

The best thing to do is to add five drops of MSR Sweetwater Purifier Solution per liter (MSR AutoFLow's bag is 4L so if full, it will need 20 drops of the solution) for 99.9999% purification of the water. These drops should be added AFTER the filtering is completed. By doing this, you will not be able to taste the solution nor worry about viruses in the water. The filter will take out Giardia, Chrypto, and Bacteria, and the Sweetwater Solution will easily take care of the viruses. No need to worry about taste or bugs!

This is meant as an anchor for glacier and snow travel. Much better than skis or ice axes, and absolutely necessary for crevasse rescue. This item does not need stakes, but is, itself, a type of stake. Hope that clears things up...

I fold mine in thirds. I absolutely can be made as small and compact as the regular NeoAir, although it isn't as light. Pack size is the same, just 5oz more in weight.

It would work due to the dimensions (the Z-Lite only comes in 20 inch width...no large size). It won't be as comfortable as a self-inflatable mattress, but would be more durable. Make sure to get the 20 inch size.

It will also work with the small Z-Lite.

Actually, the NeoAir should be rolled up in thirds, not in half, in order to get it as small as possible. However the Trail Lite pad can be folded in half like the Prolite and Prolite Plus. Obviously it will be more bulky due to it's heavier materials and thickness. But if you want maximum packability doing it this way is recommended.

Unfortunately, the Reactor doesn't work with other pots/pans. This is due to the convex structure of the burner (not a flat surface to put a pan on but domed). The reason for this is because the engineers wanted to create as efficient a stove as possible and in order to do this they had to make the stove and pot be as one.

It should be noted that this stove is hot! Therefore, in my opinion, it is not a good stove to use a frypan on, even if one existed that would fit the burner. A new 2.5 liter pot (sold separately) along with the 1 liter pot are the only two recommended for this stove.

The Reactor's strength is speed in boiling water and efficiency. It isn't very good at simmering nor in performing other types of methods used in cooking gourmet meals. It's best used if you need boiling water for already-prepared meals, or for melting snow. It should also be said that due to it's ability to fend of wind and suck up as much heat as possible makes the Reactor a true 4-season stove. That's rare to say about a canister stove.

I would recommend the MSR WindPro Stove for use with any type of pot/pan available. It's MSR's best canister gourmet-cooking stove.

Nope. You will need the MSR Mutha Hubba Footprint. The reason is these footprints fit exactly the bottom of the particular tent it's made for, complete with the stake out points. If you where to use this with the Mutha Hubba it would leave large parts of the of the bottom of the tent unprotected.

The main purpose of these footprints are to keep the tent from getting damaged. A $400 tent with dirt and other forms of wear-and-tear is bad, but a $40 footprint with dirt, scrape marks, and mildew isn't as big a deal. In the old days, you needed a tarp (aka. footprint) to keep water from seeping into the floor of the tent, but not any more. Most mid-level to high-end tents are durably waterproof with taped seems. However, the footprint will literally add decades of life to the tent. Call it 'tent floor insurance' and since the floor is where it actually contacts the earth, this makes sense. I have several tents that I have used everywhere from muddy Teton National Park conditions to Moab desert conditions but because I used footprints, you can hardly tell they've been used. It's amazing!

Hope that helps!

It depends on what you need it for. If you simply want a backpack for riding your bike around town or small day hikes where you will encounter rain (no more than 20 lbs packed) then this is a great pack. The extremely durable 600D material and welded seams makes this one of the most durable packs out there.

If you want one for actual backpacking in the backcountry, this might not be the best choice. The reason is it lacks an adequate waist belt which is needed for long distance hikes. More than 5 miles and carrying 25+lbs you will really start feeling it in your shoulders. It does come with a 1" webbing waste belt, but this is to help stabilize it, not to carry the weight.

The thing I love about this pack is it's easy entry. The roll top closure and clasp make this one of the best packs for quick access. I also love that once you put something in it, whether it's a computer and/or other electronic devices, books, papers, clothes, or whatever, it is going to stay dry. The stiffener at the top makes it really easy to roll and it will soon become one of your favorite packs. I also like the fact that it doesn't look like other packs out there. It really stands out in a good way. The quality and construction are top notch and it has a very high-end feel. It's also entirely made in the USA (Seattle, WA). It is an awesome pack!

Absolutely! The thing you will notice is the traction and weight of this snowshoe. The binding is easy to use (once fitted to your foot with the boot you will be wearing) and will hold it in securely. I would also recommend the MSR Lightning Axis and/or the MSR Lightning Ascent snowshoes. These include a Heel Raiser that works very well in lifting the heel, making climbing mountains and going up steep terrain much easier.

These snowshoes are excellent for the terrain you described due to their incredible traction and firm binding. The best part though is that they are lightweight! Over a few miles of walking in powder, the thing you will notice the first on any showshoe is it's weight. The combination of traction, firm fitting but comfortable binding, durability, and lightweight make these snowshoes one of the best choices for backcountry use.

Cascade Designs (Thermarest, MSR, Platypus, Sealine and Tracks) cannot be shipped to Australia. See 'What Brands Cannot Be Shipped Out Of The US" on this site (under the 'Help' menu).

Yes it will! In fact, the Prolite Plus will also work. For 2011, most of Thermarest's backpacking mattresses are tapered which will work in the Big Agnes Sleeping Bags. The only issue is the large sizes which are too wide (25") for the large Big Agnes bags. If you are using a regular size bag then the regular Thermarest pads will work. These include; Prolite, Prolite Plus, Trail Pro, Trail Lite, and Trail Scout.

It should. It was designed to nest in the Flex 4 Cookset.

The worst pot made for efficiency and boiling water is a tall, small diameter titanium pot. Why do manufacturers make them? Because they're small, lightweight and easy to pack. The Snow Peak 600 Pot was designed, first, to accommodate one of their canisters and a stove inside the pot. Efficiency and boil time weren't considered as it's primary functions. Many stoves, such as the MSR PocketRocket, are perfect for these types of pots, like the Snow Peak 600, because they center the flame directly in the middle of the pot. Titanium also has poor heat conductivity so the only water being effected by the heat is on or near the bottom of the pot closest to the flame.

The Simmerlite (and WindPro which is very similar) are optimum for 1L pots and larger that have larger circumferences, but shallower profiles. A good example of this type of pot for a solo backpacker is the MSR Quick Solo. It is made from aerospace aluminum that's been hard anodized. But it's the shape that makes the most difference. You will find water will boil much faster with less fuel than the Snow Peak 600 pot.

The Snow Peak 600 pot will work with the Simmerlite, but it isn't optimum. I would recommend the canister SnowPeak stoves or the MSR Pocket Rocket. Unfortunately there isn't a liquid fuel (non-canister) stove that will work optimally with this type of pot currently.

We've actually been told that, to be safe, it is recommended to only store your canister fuel up to 3 years. The reason for this is that the Lindal Valve used on canisters, which allows the stove to be removed from the canister and then re-inserted, has a rubber O-ring that can deteriorate over time. Because the fuel inside the canister is highly pressurized and flammable, the O-ring can fail resulting in fuel leakage. Best case scenario is that the vapor will leak out resulting in an empty fuel canister. Worst case is possible ignition resulting in a fire hazard. The likely hood of this is rare, but possible. Fuel leakage will most likely not happen in three years, but to be safe, the time period of 3 years has been agreed upon by those who manufacturer the Lindal Valve. In other words, you take a risk of leaking fuel after a 3 year period.

The thing I always tell folks using our snowshoes is that the straps need to be pulled tight, especially on the heal. If they are pulled tight (holes on the straps should look elongated) then they should stay on. If they are not pulled tight, the post will most likely come out without much effort. It's the strap tension that keeps the straps from coming off.

The straps that go over the toes and heel can be adjusted so they don't put too much tension over the top of the foot, but the heel is a different story. Pull it tight!

I would caution you on titanium's lack of non-stick qualities. In other words, things stick to titanium worse than any other material except for bare aluminum. Therefore things like oatmeal, pasta (mac & cheese specifically), and other constant stir foods need to be taken very seriously when using titanium. If you turn your head for a moment and stop stirring, your likely to get sticking like you've never encountered before.

Non-stick coatings are available on titanium, but aren't very good at 'non-stick' and tend to wear off quickly. These coatings are nothing like teflon which doesn't bond to Ti.

The one thing titanium does exceptionally well is boil water. It's also incredibly light and most importantly, unbreakable for it's weight. This is the real appeal to Ti. It can take serious abuse and the joy of packing it away is something you want to relive over and over again.

Be careful not to leave it on the stove without any fluid in the pot. Because most Ti pots are very thin, it could, at best, cause the pot to mis-shape and, at worst, melt it completely. The bueatiful coloration (blue and copper tints) makes using it an art project.

I love my Ti pots and recommend them once I understood their limitations.

The MSR Fury comes with 8 GroundHog II stakes. These are the best money can buy and are the best stakes included in any tent at any price. Features include rounded edges on top of the stake to make it easier to place the stake in the ground, a small piece of cordage to allow you to easily pull the stake out of the ground, super durable Easton E7 aluminum for incredible strength, and the shape + materials makes it near impossible to bend.

In order to completely guy out the Fury, you will need 12 stakes. This would include the 8 needed to set up the tent for a grand total of 20 stakes. This is for extreme conditions only. Most likely all you would need would be 6 additional stakes if you are heading into serious conditions. If you expect 100+mph winds, then I would consider taking all 20 stakes.

The Fury also comes with a small amount of reflective cordage and a few small aluminum cord tensioners. These small lengths of cordage are very useful in helping improve ventilation by pulling the bottom of the fly out (you will need 4 additional stakes to take advantage of this). However, you will need to purchase more cordage and stakes if guying out is a necessity.

A box that would work without a rack would be the new Yakima boxes. They are easier to put on, take off, the handles are all metal, and the lids are much more robust (can open and close much easier). Currently the best boxes on the market are Yakima. You should check them out.

They have the wrong image up. Go over to http://cascadedesigns.com/therm-a-rest/mattresses/trek-and-travel/neoair-trekker/product to see the NeoTrekker.

Great question! There are a couple of key differences between the two. The NeoAir (listed above) uses the most durable lightweight nylon available. Remember, this is ultra-lightweight material so it needs a little more TLC (no different from other super lightweight gear). However it is much more durable than other ultra-lightweight materials and has incredible tensile strength (it's ability to withstand tears). It can also take amazing amounts of pressure without breaking down. It isn't remarkably puncture proof, but really no nylon ripstop or polyester is. This material is also coated with a tacky silicon surface to help it from sliding around the tent.

The other major difference between this and the NeoTrekker is the highly reflective mylar sheet that helps to radiate heat back to the user. This increase it's R-Value by almost 2 points. The NeoTrekker doesn't have this reflective material inside the pad. The NeoAir is also about 5 oz. lighter and can pack smaller.

The NeoTrekker uses a polyester material instead of nylon. Polyester materials are less expensive than high-end nylons and don't have the same tensile strength for it's weight. However, the polyester used on the NeoTrekker has similar characteristics as the nylon on the NeoAir, but at a weight penalty. The polyester also has a brushed feel to it giving it a softer hand. Because the NeoTrekker lacks the noisy reflective mylar inside, it is much quieter if you are concerned about crinkly noise. I've used both pads and am not bothered by either although some have complained with the NeoAir.

In summary the NeoTrekker is more durable, quieter but less insulative and heavier than the NeoAir. It's also $40 cheaper. If these attributes are desirable, and the extra weight isn't a big deal, then the NeoTrekker is a tremendous pad. However, if size, weight, and extended season use (down to about 20 degrees F) is paramount without sacrificing comfort, albeit for the slight crinkly noise and a bit more money, the NeoAir stands supreme.

Just as long as you know it's 8 lbs and almost as big as your entire pack when full, I say more power to ya!

However, I would consider a Neo Trekker for backpacking. You are correct that the DreamTime will be luxurious (and is the only choice for car camping), but the Neo Trekker is close to the comfort of the DreamTime and is MUCH smaller and lighter. Your girlfriend will still know that you love her and you both will actually enjoy the trip...

The 45 Lumen package has been discontinued and the current Remix Pro is 70 Lumen. The Remix (not the Pro model) on SAC is the 45 Lumen model. The Remix Pro is the lightest weight (2.3oz), full feature headlamp that Princeton Tec makes. It uses a single CR123 battery that reduces the battery life compared to the 3 AAA battery Remix. However it is unique in the marketplace for it's ultra light weight vs. its super bright light output along with proximity and spot settings. It's awesome...

This footprint's dimensions are the same, but the gormmet point is at a different place than the standard Hubba footprint (the Carbon Reflex only has one pole and doesn't use hubs like the Hubba). If you want to be able to set up the Hubba without using the body of the tent, you can either do it without a footprint or with the footprint. However, you won't be able to do it with the Carbon Reflex 1 footprint.

This footprint's dimensions are the same, but the gormmet point is at a different place than the standard Hubba footprint (the Carbon Reflex only has one pole and doesn't use hubs like the Hubba). If you want to be able to set up the Hubba without using the body of the tent, you can either do it without a footprint or with the footprint. However, you won't be able to do it with the Carbon Reflex 1 footprint.

When the filter element gets wet, it turns a light orange/rust color. The filter element should be fine. If you're worried, I would recommend boiling it for about 15 minutes. Any pathogen left after it being used will be eliminated.

Absolutely! The Platypus Insulator Tube was made to be used with the Big Zip SL Hydration Bladder. It will also work with the Platypus Hoser Hydration Bladder. It's easy to install and works well to insulate in weather above 20 degrees F.

They are plastic and therefore will melt. You have to take precautions when using them in high heat. Having said that, they are the exact same material as the plastic spatulas you buy for your home for non-stick cookware at Bed, Bath, and Beyond. Similar to Kitchen Aide and other commercial plastic spatulas these will work similarly, except they are designed to fold up and be stored.

They are designed for non-stick cookware when metal spatulas and spoons will damage the teflon coating. If you are using stainless steel, titanium, or hard anodized aluminum, then a metal spatula might be a better choice. I personally use these at home as well as outdoors. They work well and are inexpensive.

Actually they are left and right foot specific. In the past, the Lightning Ascents weren't specific on what foot you put the snowshoes on, rather it was left up to the user on where you wanted the straps to end up (inside vs. outside). However, the new 2010/2011 bindings do have a marking on the inside of the binding that shows which foot they are to go on. This allows the binding to fit better and hold the foot tighter with less discomfort, and take any guesswork out of which foot goes where.

I would actually recommend the Yakima Universal Might Mounts. These will work on round, square, or aero (oval) factory crossbars. See them at: http://www.yakima.com/shop/factorycrossbars/universal-mightymounts

Absolutely not! The 'clamps' that attach the box to the vehicle are made specifically to work with aero bars. Using a 'quick-release' mechanism, you will find putting on and taking off of the box is extremely simple (other than the weight of the box). When putting it on your car, make sure the rear of the box won't interfere with the opening of your car's rear door. The clamps are adjustable fore and aft.

You can open it from either side, comes with lock cores, the unique opening latch, and the lid 'trusses' makes this the best box money can buy (I also love that the clamp's quick-release mechanism inside the box doesn't get in the way near as much as Thule's boxes).

No problem...a perfectly fair question. The MSR Dromedary Bags should be handled just like any other water container. The material (500D woven nylon) is coated inside with a food-grade polyurethane coating. Thus it's not different than any other plastic container.

You are more than ok filling the Drom Bag from the water source you've chosen (the cleaner the better) and dropping in the required number of chlorine dioxide tablets (1 pill per 1L of water). Obviously make sure you let it sit at least 15-20 minutes for the chemicals to work. The chemical will not hurt the inside coating of the bag.

You can also treat the water with a pump filter. The MSR Miniworks EX works perfectly with the MSR Drom Bags. You simply screw the bottom of the Miniworks EX filter onto the opening of the Drom Bag creating a waterproof seal and pump away. Once the bag is full, unscrew the Drom Bag from the water filter and your good to go! Nothing could be more simple...

Hope this helps!

One of the best features of the MSR snowshoes is the pivot. The problem you experienced with your Atlas snowshoes had to do with the webbing pivot that didn't allow the snowshoe to fall away once you picked up your foot. Instead it literally shot back toward your leg and back due to the tension the webbing created thus kicking up snow almost the entire length of your back. The MSR snowshoes have a free-falling pivot with a stopper that allows the snowshoe to fall away once it's picked up, but not so much that it causes you to stumble as in many snowshoes that have 90 degree pivots. This along with the best traction and durability of any snowshoe on the planet makes them easy to walk in, less noticeable on your feet, and ultimately snowshoes you can't wait to put on!

I would also add the binding is one that you adjust once while securing them to your feet, and forget. They aren't made from nylon webbing which can stretch and freeze, but from a super durable rubber composite that conforms to your foot. This binding allows the snowshoe to become one with your foot without the constant need of readjusting and re-tightening. Once you get the hang of it, they are super easy to put on and take off, even with mittens. If a strap breaks (unlikely) it can be field-repaired without tools unlike many snowshoes where the straps are riveted on (they are inexpensive to buy as well). The combination of all these attributes makes the MSR Evos some of the best snowshoes out there and definitely the best value of any snowshoe.

It will work. Along with the Q-Towers, you will also need to purchase a set of 58" CrossBars and sets of Q83 and Q34 clips which are necessary to fit your particular car. In order to carry a kayak, you will also need to consider which accessory to by. As you most likely know, Yakima racks can carry anything from lumber to kayaks, to bikes. The best accessory for carrying a kayak is the BigStack. Or if cost is an issue the Kayak Stacker will work well. They both offer security and ease of getting the kayak on and off your car. Hope this helps...

True...there are not many dimension differences between the Hubba Hubba and the Carbon Reflex 2. In fact, the Hubba Hubba is arguably more livable based on the fact that it has two doors and two equally sized vestibules, and it's freestanding (more convenient not necessarily more weatherproof). However, the huge benefit that the Carbon Reflex offers is in it's incredibly low weight. Whenever you can save pounds in carrying weight, not simply ounces by cutting your toothbrush in half or trimming the labels off your clothes, and not sacrifice livability, it is worth the upgrade. The Carbon Reflex's weight is almost 1 1/2 lbs lighter than the Hubba Hubba while giving the user or users the same protection and livability. This does come at a cost, but the end result is a lighter weight and smaller pack. In the end this ultimately means a more enjoyable trip.

I often recommend that the best weight is saved through the 'essentials' in general backpacking (sleeping bag, tent, sleeping pad, and backpack). The best part is that in our day and age we have so many choices based on cost, weight, comfort level, etc. There are three realities in purchasing new gear; high durability, low weight, and low cost. Unfortunately you can only have two...

There are advantages for the Lightning snowshoes and the Evo Snowshoes. However, the flagship shoes for MSR are the Lightning Ascents. They are lighter than the Evos, have better traction, are quieter, and (for the women's model) are narrower making them easier to walk in. The Evos main advantage is their durability (although the Lightnings are very solid). There are very few pieces of gear that are as bomber as the Evos.

Both snowshoes are awesome, but the Lightnings are definitely a step up. And for 2010, you can add tails to the Lightnings making it equal to the Evos in that sense. Enjoy your new snowshoes and be confident that you made an excellent choice!

They're sold separately for $39.99.

The optimum length for you would be the 25 inch snowshoe. MSR recommends (depending on snow conditions), for anyone 120 to 200+ lbs, the 25 inch snowshoe.

For 2010 MSR has developed the Lightning Tail which will work on the Flash and other 2010 Lightning snowshoes (will not work on models prior to 2010). This will allow you to extend the length of the Lightning Flash making it possible to use the smaller snowshoe if you aren't going to be in deeper snow (around 15 inches deep). If you think you will be walking in deep snow most of the time, then go for the 25s. However if you think you'll be on packed trails and snow around the 1 to 2 feet depth generally then the 22's with the optional tails would be the best option.

My recommendations would be the Evo Ascent with Evo Tails, Evo Tour with Evo Tails or the MSR Lightning Series of snowshoes. For 2010, the Lightning now has the option of putting on a tail allowing for deeper snow access.

Any one of these snowshoes will give you an excellent experience in the backcountry and will be one of the best winter gear investments you will make. If durability is paramount, I would recommend with the Evo series from MSR (the differences are really in the bindings which effects the cost of the snowshoe). Many of my friends are your size and use the Evo exclusively in Utah/Colorado where there can be exceptionally deep snow. By having the option of the tail, you get the best of both worlds...snowshoes that are actually fun to use and can accomodate the snow conditions.

The MSR Hubba HP is first and foremost a very lightweight tent. Because of this, by it's nature, isn't as bombproof as a true 4-season tent. What it is is one of the most versatile lightweight tents on the market. It has a 10,000mm coated floor, almost complete nylon canopy, 20D 330T rainfly which is super light but has incredible tensile strength (tensile strength is how much tearing pressure it can withstand), and is one of the more sturdy ultralight weight tents available.

However if you know you may experience snowloads or super high winds (over 50 mph), I would consider something more substantial. It will be heavier than the Hubba HP, but the weight may be worth it's weight in gold. I would recommend the MSR Fury or Dragontail. Both these tents, especially if guyed out, are light but incredibly sturdy to withstand the wind and possible snow loads you most likely will experience in Patagonia. The Fury is especially made for these conditions. Both tents have the capability of saving your life if the weather warrants it.

Yes, the straps are included.

It is there to provide just a bit more holding power for the foot. I would recommend not using it, but throwing it in your pack until it is needed (on rare occasions when the terrain is either extremely steep or unpredictable). After having used this binding on several occasions, and over difficult terrain, I'm very surprised at how secure the Speedlock binding is without using the strap. It's comfortable, the easiest binding I've ever used in getting my foot in and out, and extremely durable.

Yep...I would recommend buying a new pump. They run $39.95 and include a brand new windscreen. This new pump will enhance the performance of your stove as though it's brand new.

Here's the link: http://www.backcountry.com/msr-fuel-pump

There are many pros and cons to the AutoFlow system. Hollow Fiber, the media used in the filter element, is relatively new and is best suited for clean water that doesn't have a lot of sediment or other types of clogging agents (ie. Humic Acid, Blue/Green Algae, Glacial Silt, sewage, etc.). As you use this filter, it is also imperative that you consistently and with regularity back flush which requires regular maintenance. You need to make sure this filter isn't thrown around or abused. It is susceptible to damage if handled roughly.

The best part about this filter though is there is no work. You simply fill up the bag and watch the water filter at almost 2 liters per minute (incredibly fast). Of course this is when the filter's brand new and will inevitably slow down over time. If you are thinking about purchasing the AutoFlow, I would also recommend getting an additional Filter Element just in case. The filter element will take out any bacteria, protozoa, or pathogenic particle that you will run into (anything larger than 0.2 microns will be filtered out which includes dirt, bacteria, protozoa). Viruses are not mechanically removed, but must be treated with a chemical. Because your are going to a 3rd world country, I would recommend taking a bottle of the Sweetwater Purification Solution as this will eliminate all viruses. Remember to only add the solution AFTER you've filtered the water...

If you want a reliable, proven filter who's reputation has been built upon it's reliability, I would go with the MSR MiniWorks EX Filter. It's also 0.2 micron capable, lasts much longer than the AutoFlow, is cleanable (you actually take the element out and scrub it with a Scotchbrite pad that's included with the filter), can be field-maintained, and any chemicals (not heavy metals however) will be removed due to the carbon component located at the core of the filter element. It does require you to pump which equates to work, but if you want to be 100% absolutely sure, with no worries, of clean water, this is the pump to get.

Either filter will get the water clean. The main issue is how sure do you want to be that in any situation in whatever circumstance you find yourself in you will have clean water. The AutoFlow is a great filter, but the MiniWorks EX is ultra-reliable in extreme conditions and everyday use.

You may also want to consider the MSR MIOX Purifier. This is a tool used to create a chemical solution that will purify the water in about 30 minutes. It won't take anything out of the water, but will make it suitable to drink. It even takes most of the bad tastes from the water. All you need is salt and CR123 (lithium camera batteries) and will work flawlessly. It will purify large quantities of water and can also be used to sterilize fruits and vegetables, as well as clean minor cuts and scratches. It's only 3.5 ounces (w/ batteries) and is something you can totally rely on. One of it's best features is the fact that it will do large quantities of water much better than most filters. Because you are adding a purifying solution to the water, you aren't require to filter every drop which takes time and adds maintenance to the filter. If you think you'll need many gallons throughout the day, this is the best choice in my opinion.

Bottom line: For mechanical water filters there are many options. The MSR AutoFlow is the most convenient and easy to use, but may not be the most reliable. The MSR Miniworks EX is ultra-reliable, but takes more work to get the water. The MSR MIOX is easy to use, very reliable, purifies the water but doesn't actually filter anything out. Perhaps the best thing to do is to get a combination of the MIOX and Filter. It's always good to have a backup...

There are a few differences between the two. The Evo does not have a Televator (the description is wrong...we are in contact with the person involved at backcountry.com to get it changed).

The similarities between the two are basically they use the same materials (GE Thermoplastic for the body and Martensite Steel (strongest steel available) for the traction bars and crampon) and they have the same shape. They can also use the same Evo Tail, extending the snowshoe 6 more inches. The differences are in the bindings with the Evo Ascent having a much more technical and secure binding than the Evo. The Ascent binding has been designed to secure the foot better than any other snowshoe on the market whereas the Evo's binding is really for those who need more ease of use. Through extensive testing it's been shown that the Evo binding is very secure, really easy to get in and out of, but having a third strap does make a significant difference if the terrain is more extreme. The other obvious difference is the Ascent comes with the Televator. This option is not a gimmick or frivolous, but is an incredibly useful tool in climbing extended altitude gains. If climbing big snow hills and mountains is something you think you'll do, I would highly recommend the Ascent.

I would also recommend the MSR Evo Tour. This snowshoe uses our new Speedlock binding which is easier to get in, more comfortable, and with the additional strap is almost as secure as the Ascent (check out the Speedlock binding on the Evo Tour page). It has a Televator and is priced at $179.99 ($20 less than the Ascent). Hope that gives you some ideas...

This pot is intended to work very similarly to the pot the Reactor comes with. It will have the same performance, boil times, efficiency, and simmering capability only with more capacity. In my experience, because it takes longer (about 6 minutes with 2 liters of water boiled), you do have more time to work with. However it is not recommended for long simmering sessions.

You can store anything in it without really damaging the interior. Just keep in mind it may rattle around if you only have one canister in the pot. I would also recommend putting in a couple of pairs of socks and/or a large packtowel as this will help some of the rattle. I wouldn't worry about storing metal utensils, metal bowls, etc. The hard anodization is nearly impervious to wear.

They are. However, you need to select the Q78 on the drop down menu as you order. As you can see there are several different clips depending on the car you drive. These fit into the door jam of your car when mated with Yakima's Q-Tower. Remember you need to get a total of four clips, or X2 sets of clips. Refer to yakima.com for any questions.

These snowshoes are fantastic for many reasons and may be exactly what you are looking for. I've listed many reasons why below:

-For one, they are light! In fact they are the lightest snowshoes that MSR makes and are arguably one of the lightest pair on the market for general snowshoeing. By using a lighter snowshoe, you will notice them on your feet far less and which also means they will be easier to use and much more maneuverable in deeper snow.

-Two, Incredible Traction. The last thing you want to be doing is sliding all over the place, especially when hiking up moderate hills. These offer some of the best traction of any snowshoe on the market!

-They are super durable which means they will last for many years. They are entirely made in the USA (Seattle, WA) with a lifetime warranty.

-The new Speedlock binding is easy to set up (follow the instructions that come with the snowshoe). They require an initial adjustment and once this is done, you simply shove your foot at an angle into the the large loop, straighten your foot so to be parallel with the snowshoe, and then securing the back strap. It really doesn't get easier than this. The bindings are very secure (if properly adjusted) and very comfortable with no pressure points. Make sure to watch the video on this page to become familiar with how they work.

Really what you want is to have fun while playing in the snow. I can't think of another pair that will offer as much enjoyment while snowshoeing as the MSR Lightning Flash. I would recommend the Women's size 22 for you. They are the narrowest (meaning easiest to walk in) snowshoe available and will give you all the float you will need for your weight. The last thing you want is too big of a snowshoe which makes it more difficult to hike around in. MSR has solved this problem by offering Tails for the 2010 Lightning series of snowshoes (they will not work with previous year Lightnings)! If you need a longer snowshoe for deeper snow, this tail will fit on the back of the Flash allowing for 5 inches more surface area which should give you the float you need. They are easy to put on and an exclusive feature of the MSR snowshoes. Hope this helps...

I would also add that they were designed with women in mind. Although they work just as well for men, the old Denali Classic snowshoes seemed to be cumbersome for many women resulting in them stepping on the snowshoes causing themselves to trip (not fun). The result of having a tapered back section alleviated many of the tripping issues we were seeing with the Denalis. We subsequently introduced the light blue color in the Evo Ascents a few years ago.

I think most women will find them fairly easy to put on and take off, comfortable once on, and will last for many years. They are fun to use and are much less noticeable on the feet than some of our competitors (this is due to how secure they are on the feet and the almost zero play in the pivot even over many years of hard use). They offer tremendous traction (no slipping) and give the user an amazing platform which increases the stability on slippery and inconsistent snow. Also recommended are trekking poles with snow baskets and gaiters to round out the package.

I can't speak to the Osprey, but will speak highly of the Granite Gear Meridian. I've taken it on many trips and have never had a bad experience. One of the great things about this pack is it's durability. For as light a pack as it is, I'm amazed at how well it holds up to constant drops, sitting on it along the trail, getting it snagged on tree limbs, rubbing up against rocks, etc. I think this is one area where Granite Gear really sets itself apart is in the durability department. Many of my friends who own Osprey have complained that they just don't hold up very well.

I also love how comfortable it is. Because the Meridian uses a different suspension technology, TopoFlex frame sheet, it conforms exactly to my back. What I've found is that it supports up to 50 lbs comfortably but yet still moves with my back and torso when boulder hopping and hiking/climbing off-trail. I have never had issues concerning support, but have actually found it was more comfortable when compared to traditional aluminum stays.

It packs/unpacks easily and everything just simply works...from the top lid converting to a fanny pack to the hybrid load capability, there is nothing on the pack that is unnecessary. Over the years I've had many packs, but the Granite Gear Meridian has to rank as my favorite overall pack.

Although well-intended, Simon Hatfield's response doesn't give you the full picture. In order for you to make the most valued decision, I would add these points:

The Base 2 Pot Set is MSR's valued set that would be considered high-end from any other manufacturer. It is made from aerospace aluminum (best aluminum available), uses the best teflon coating available, and has a baked on exterior silicon enamel coating that is highly resistant to chipping and minor scratches. For the weekend warrior, this set is well made and worth every penny. Having both pots teflon coated means easier clean up and non-stick performance, but also is more prone to damage in the field due to scratching of the teflon which damages the pot. You have to be more concerned about using metal utensils with teflon coated pots.

The Quick 2 Pot Set is all about durability. Instead of an enamel coating (although durable, it can be scratched), the Quick 2 uses hard anodization. This coating is applied using electricity which actually combines with the molecules of the surface of the aluminum and does a few things. One, it is impervious to wear (will never wear off) and actually helps in giving it more consistent heat distribution (gourmet cooks love it!). Two, it actually hardens the outside of the pot which gives it similar characteristics of a stainless steel cookset without the weight. MSR uses the best hard anodization available which warrants the price increase. The large pot isn't teflon coated based on durability issues (no matter how good the teflon coating is, it will eventually start to peel and/or chip). It should be noted that the hard anodization does have a level of non-stick performance similar to uncoated stainless steel...far better than titanium or uncoated aluminum. The Quick 2 Pot Set and System is MSR's most durable and most worthy for hard backcountry use.

Bottom Line: If you want an excellent cookset that will perform well for many years, both cooksets will do. However if you demand more worry free durability with a bit better cooking performance, the Quick 2 Pot Set and System are the best out there.

You can nest a small, medium, and large plate together, but that's it. Smalls don't nest with smalls, etc. With three of the plates nested together (small, medium, large) the heighth would be about 1 1/2 inches.

To add to that, the material used in the Granite Gear Round Rock Solid Compression Sacks is waterproof (PU coating), but the seams are not. They are taped (not the same taping as in a waterproof jacket) which helps them from fraying and allows them to be more water resistant. However with prolonged water exposure, the seams will draw in moisture.

Granite Gear does offer a more waterproof compression sack that is fully seam taped (waterproof taping). These are the Granite Gear EVent Compression Dry Sacks. These are significantly more waterproof and feature a roll-down closure, eVent material on the bottom of the sack to allow for purging of the air, and every seam is taped for maximum waterproofness. I would recommend using these if going on a trip that will likely involve large amounts of water exposure.

MSR branded Snowshoes, under the parent company of Cascade Designs, are made in Seattle, WA. It should also be noted that all of the materials they are made from come from the US as well. Seventy percent of all Cascade Designs products are made in the USA...

You are correct. This footprint was made to work with both tents and is the exact material and coating as the Mutha Hubba HP. By using the footprint, the floor of your tent will be brand new over many years of hard use.

The 70 Lumen Eos have been shipping for about 3 months. Backcountry.com only has the 70 Lumen version in stock.

These snowshoes aren't designed to run in because of the pivot. Most running snowshoes don't pivot. Non pivoting snowshoes are a bad thing for snowshoeing in general (kicks snow up on the back), but a good thing for running. The reason is running in snowshoes takes so much energy that any drag can slow you down. If a snowshoe pivots, it is dragging on the ground. Running while wearing pivoting snowshoes can cause them to catch on snow or other debris as well. This can cause one to trip, fall, sprain an ankle, etc. Non-pivoting snowshoes pick up with the foot and allows more control of the snowshoe. By having this control, you are much more efficient. Running snowshoes are generally lighter and smaller.

If you are walking with snowshoes, a pivot is preferred because it allows the snow to slide off the back of the shoe, doesn't flip snow up the back of the leg, and isn't as noticeable on the feet. The Evo Snowshoes are some of the best for general snowshoeing when traction and durability are paramount, but a bad choice for running...

To add one other point to Timothy's comments (which are all correct), the binding is also a bit smaller than the mens to accomidate women's feet.

The lid fits very tight on these pots. The handle press-fits the lid on and locks down the lid on the pot creating a tight seal. They are great for protecting food against rodents and for organizing your cooking gear. They don't have a waterproof seal and therefore I wouldn't recommend carrying anything liquid in the pot while packing. They are tight enough to keep powder in the pot without getting all over the place. I think the best way to describe these pots are very high quality, well made that you can rely on for many years. They don't rattle and aren't loose in anyway and can be used hard without fear of breakage.

If you are tough on your gear and want something to perform no matter what, these are the pots to get.

Absolutely! The MSR Carbon Reflex represents the best workmanship available in backpacking tents. Many buy this tent based on it's weight and livability, but later cherish it due to it's best-in-class quality. The materials used are premium making it durable, weatherproof, and incredibly light. The lap-felled seams (strongest seam available and an example of the extreme detail used in it's construction) are immaculate and the seam-taping is near perfect with absolutely zero bubbling, often found in the competition's seam-taping. You would be hard pressed to find the same combination of absolute quality and attention to detail which has resulted in the finest ultralight tent money can buy. There is no doubt that you get your money's worth with the MSR Carbon Reflex Series of tents.

They are sold separately for around $30. The huge benefit is instead of worrying about the size of snowshoe, all you have to do is attach the tail to extend it according to the snow conditions. This allows you to use the smallest snowshoe size for these conditions.

If you're asking whether or not you can put on a new binding on an old snowshoe, the answer is yes. The new Composite decking comes from the same mold as the old one.

The new 2010 MSR Evo Snowshoes do not include a Televator Heel Raiser. However, these are the new entry level snowshoes from MSR, updated this year to the Evo shape. They also benefit from a new improved binding from the old Denali Classics snowshoes with easier foot placement, a more comfortable binding, and overall better performance. Having the option of using the 6" Evo Tail makes it much more versatile. The new MSR Evo snowshoe is one of the best values in the snowshoe markeplace currently.

Yes, you will need to buy a flotation tails as an accessory. They are the Evo Tails and will add an additional 4 inches to the end of the snowshoe.

I would recommend against it. MSR's fuel bottles are made to exacting standards, making sure that there is a complete seal. By taking a chance with another brand of fuel bottle opens the door to possible leaks and issues that might cause a fire or worse. I would highly recommend that if you are using an MSR liquid fuel stove that you purchase an MSR fuel bottle.

You will need Q5-A front clips and Q124-F rear clips.

Again, yes you will be in direct contact with the pad underneath. Just to be clear, the best pad to use with the Haven is the Prolite pad. The next best (and warmer option) is the Prolite Plus pad. If sleeping on a nylon surface bothers you, I would recommend getting the fitted sheet. They are sized according to the length and width of the pad. The fitted sheet is polyester but feels like brushed cotton and is easy to clean. It will help maintain the longevity of the pad.

Yakima actually makes two different Hullraisers...the Hullraiser and the Hullraiser Aero. The Hullraiser Aero is made to work on any type of crossbar be it round, square, elliptical shaped, etc. due to it's Universal Mounting hardware. The Outbacks bars are elliptical but you should have no problems fitting the Hullraiser Aero on your Subaru. They will most definitely fit and work very well. However, the basic Hullraiser won't fit (will only fit on round or square bars). You will need the Hullraiser Aero.

Absolutely! You should have no problem carrying 4 snowboards with this product. It comes with the ability to raise the carrier up so as to allow room for the bindings and keep them from hitting the roof of the car. The way it works is by stacking two snowboards back to back, doing the same thing for another set, and setting the set of two next to each other. There is plenty of room to lock down two snowboards side to side and thus sets of two snowboards side to side.

It so happens I had both the Base Pot 2 Set and the MSR Ti Kettle in my office and the Ti Kettle will fit into the smaller pot with the lid of the Base Pot 2 Set fitting over the top and locking everything in. The MSR Alpine Tea Pot (Stainless Steel version) won't fit into the smaller pot but will fit into the larger pot. The diameter of the Alpine Tea Pot is too big for the smaller pot in the Base Pot 2 Set. The MSR Ti Kettle is a perfect fit for the system and will only add about 4.2 ounces. Just to be clear, the MSR Ti Kettle isn't a full 1L, but about .85L. The whole system (MSR Base Pot 2 Set and the MSR Ti Kettle) weighs in at 20.25 ounces (574 grams).

It is a perfect fit! These are very easy to install and the raised rails on the Highlander are strong enough to hold the maximum weight according to Yakima (165lbs). The recommended the bar length is 48", but depending on what you want to carry will really determine the length of the crossbar (be aware the the longer the bar, more chance of someone hitting their head when exiting the vehicle). Instructions are included in the packaging along with everything else you need to install these towers. Again you will need to get the towers and bars along with any accessory you will need/want.

You can do that with this pad. If you get the regular obviously the size would be less and I would personally fold it in half and roll it up. If it's a large, I think you would have a too fat pad to contend with. The best way to roll it up is to get as much air out as possible on the first roll up. I would roll it up without folding it first, close the valve, unroll it, and then fold in half and roll it up. I would then use velcro straps or nylon webbing to keep it small.

To expand that a little, the Skinny Too uses 'tunnel technology' to divert air into the tent without compromising it's weatherproofness. The problem with tents that don't use w/b material (silnylon is not waterproof/breathable) is their need for proper ventilation. The Skinny Too was developed from an MSR 4-season tent (DragonTail) that has proven itself in the field. The other major benefit with this tunnel venting system is it gives the user one of the largest gear attics in any backpacking tent. The tunnel can be closed off if the weather starts to really kick up. It works well and essentially allows you all the benefits of a single wall tent (ease of set up, light weight, less expensive, larger living space) without sacrificing breathability. Brilliant!

After checking out my small Urban Backpack, and putting my 15" MBP inside, I would say that it can hold, at the most, 3 large text books. Anymore than that you would need to go to a large.

Hopefully this will help. The MIOX stands for Mixed Oxidants and is essentially a very small chemical factory you hold in your hand. The chemical it produces (using salt, water, and electricity) is incredibly effective in killing, rendering ineffective, and disabling protozoa, bacteria, viruses, chemicals, and even bad tastes in the water. It is safe to make, treats the container the chemical is put in, and can even be used as a topical agent for irrigating wounds!

The process is done by, first, unscrewing the cap, filling up the tiny chamber on the unit (not the lid) with water (making sure there is enough salt, any kind of salt, in the lid), screwing the cap back on, shaking the unit thus mixing the salt and water, removing the cap again, pushing the button on the side which is determined by the amount of water needing to be treated, waiting until the water stops fizzing, and, once it's stopped, dumping the contents into the water container. Next you let it sit for about 20 minutes (for everything except chryptospiridium) or 4 hours for chrypto. It is really one of the easiest, safest ways of treating water in the backcountry.

Because the R-Value is at 2.5, I wouldn't recommend this pad for anything below 20 degrees F. You will really start to feel the cold coming through below this temp. One way of combating this is by using a closed-cell foam mattress like the Z-Lite or Ridgerest. Both of these pads will raise the R-Value past 5 which is adequate for around the 0 degree F mark. These pads are light and fairly inexpensive and are indestructable which is important when you are in cold environments.

The Prolite Plus is also a great choice. It's limit is around 10 degrees F (for an average warm sleeper) and packs pretty small.

Granite Gear has an internal pocket for hydration up to 3L. It has a bungee cord that keeps the reservoir from sleeping down inside the pocket. It works really well and adds tremendous value to the pack. For a big hauler, this pack carries very well especially for it's minimalist weight. It is also one of the easiest packs to load. The materials are bomber and will last for several seasons of hard backpacking.

The MSR Board Room is the Taj Mahal of family camping tents! The unique features of this tent include being able to put on a BunkRoom on one side and a Screen Room on the other. Or two BunkRooms. Or...there are many possibilities depending on the amount of people and space you need to facilitate and the weather you are will be experiencing. Yet another option in extending the MSR Board Room is to employ the MSR Zing Tarp. One of the best ways of creating great livability and openness is to attach the Zing to either side of the Board Room. It makes for a really impressive tent set-up, but even better living quarters. The best part about the MSR Zing is that it can be used on it's own. If you do decide on the Board Room, you need to check out the Zing!

With so many options available to the user, this is truly the one family tent that will accommodate every need. The sky's the limit!!

Currently, according to the Yakima fit guys, the QuickBack 2/3 won't fit the VW Tiguan because the vehicle is unable to support the weight at the point where the carrier must be placed.

The best option currently for this car (if it has factory raised side rails) are the Yakima RailGrabs. This will allow you to carry most things, with the right accessories (these would include bike carriers, ski carriers, boxes, etc.) on your car.

It's working exactly as it should! That's the good news. Often what is looked at as a disadvantage to many filters is really the key to having a filter work properly. Because the filter element is taking very small stuff out of the water, the pumping action gets harder and harder. The reasons for this is that there are very small, microscopic voids that trap these small microbes that can make you sick (think shoving a basketball through a chain link fence). By default these objects also clog the small passageways that the water needs to get to your bottle. As a result you get a slower filter.

But because you bought the MiniWorks EX, you're in luck:). All you have to do is simply clean the filter element by, first, taking a good hold of it (if you drop this element on something hard, it will shatter like a porcelain doll). Next take the green bristle pad and lightly scrub it completely. This should only take a few minutes and only a very light scrub is needed. The last step is to re-install the filter element and start filtering away. You should notice a huge difference in the volume of water coming out of the hose. In fact, it should perform as it did when you first bought it.

The pressure release you experienced is simply the pressure built up while you pumped it. The MiniWorks EX operates using this pressure to force the water through the element. This is known as the 'Airspring Accumulator' molded to the outside of the body of the filter. This is what allows the MiniWorks EX to be the fastest ceramic filter on the market currently. No need to worry about the pressure...

Yes they are. Actually the new MiniWorks EX filter element will increase the speed of the old Miniworks by 20%.

A self-inflatable mattress like the Thermarest Trail Lite works by expanding the open-cell foam inside. Think sponge:). This pad consists of an outer top material, an outer bottom material which are both laminated, or glued, to the foam and a bite valve. As the user opens the valve, the foam begins to expand similar to a sponge when squeezed and the only place for the air to get in is at the valve.

There are ways to make it fill up faster, or to allow the foam to expand quicker. The best way is to store it with the valve open unrolled (underneath the bed, in a closet, etc.). This will allow the foam to retain it's resiliency.

Once you get to your campsite, simply unroll the pad and open the black valve. If stored properly it should take about 10 minutes to inflate, according to the condition of the foam inside. You can blow in a few more breaths if you need more firmness (I would do this while laying on it) or force some of the air out if you want it softer. Once you close the valve it will stay that way.

If you are purchasing for the first time, take the pad out of the plastic sleeve and open the valve. Allow the pad 24 hours of inflation as it will take this long for it to inflate. You can blow it up all the way and close the valve which will accelerate the process. Once the 24 hour period is completed, simply store it with the valve open until you need it.

When rolling it up start at the opposite end of where the valve is and slowly roll (the valve needs to be fully open), allowing all the air to escape before proceeding. You can listen to the air coming out and once you don't hear any air coming through the valve continue rolling. You are essentially forcing the air out of the foam and through the valve. Once you have rolled it up all the way, close the valve and it will remain rolled. I would highly recommend the Trail Lite Stuff Sack as this will make packing the pad much easier and will protect it as well.

The door is all fabric. However this fabric is really nice and breathable. The reason for this is to keep weight down. As you mentioned if MSR added an additional zipper and mesh section it would increase the weight a few ounces for marginal gain.

Temperature ratings on pads is an unproven science. The best way to determine the insulative qualities of a mattress is through R-Value. Insulation rather than a temperature rating is the only true method of determining a pads ability to keep the cold from making it to your body. Temperature ratings on pads is a misnomer because it gives people the false impression that I'm going to be warm at 15 degrees (for instance) if I use this pad. The reality is if you have a 30 degree sleeping bag, a 15 degree pad isn't going to keep you warm...

The biggest problem I have with temperature ratings on pads is that there is no conclusive science to back it up. It's a best guess estimate. It's the same idea as a sleeping bag company putting a temperature rating on a bag based on the weight of fill inside. Most know this is bogus...

I would suspect this pad has around a 5 R-Value which is more than adequate for sleeping in cold conditions if you have the right sleeping bag. Obviously this is the most important consideration if you want to stay warm.

The combination of foam and Primaloft insulation gives this pad adequate insulation for most winter trips. The biggest disadvantage to this pad, I can see, is it's weight. However if R-Value is the most important item on your list of needs for a pad, this isn't a bad option. At roughly a 1/2 lb. difference for an increase of 1 R-Value when comparing the Insulated Air Core vs. the Dual Core doesn't seem to be a great trade-off.

My only reason for writing this was to let the user know that a temperature rating is a poor way of determining the kind of pad you need. It's not like a sleeping bag. It can be really confusing and everyone needs to understand these numbers so they are truly prepared and are not caught with the wrong product in bad conditions...

Absolutely. I would measure twice and cut once though:). I believe it's always better to get longer bars just in case. Once you have them on your car, you can determine if they are too long. The only recommendation from Yakima is that the weight limit of your rack system hasn't been exceeded. You can have as long a bar as you want. Obviously if the bar is too long, it may cause people exiting the vehicle to hit their heads.

Absolutely! This is one of the great things about this product. I love this blanket for a couple of reasons. One, it is durable and machine washable...it simply wants to be used. Two, it has a DWR (durable water resistant) coating that protects it against light moisture. The insulation is synthetic which means it will work when it gets wet and it dries out fast. And three, it snaps together to make a big blanket or it will snap to the fitted sheet. It will be one of the most used items you will ever buy.

It is. Marmot uses PreCip laminate that is waterproof/breathable. Though PreCip does breath (allow's moisture to escape), it isn't as good as other laminate/membranes currently on the market (i.e. eVent, Gore-Tex, etc.). If you are needing a waterproof hat while participating in strenuous activities, you will most likely sweat which will cancel out the waterproofness. However, if it's for sitting out storms, PreCip is as good as anything out there. Because the hat is seam-sealed, water won't seep through the seams. This feature gives this hat it's waterproof status.

I really like that the Marmot Safari Hat is very light and packable. I've used in on several occasions and have been pleased with it. I have to say that there have been times that I have been soaking wet due to my own sweat while wearing it, because of how light and packable it is, it has been my hat of choice for most outdoor backpacking trips.

The Katadyn Hiker and Hiker Pro are fiberglass based filters. This type of filter element is what's known as a 'surface' filter in that the distance the water needs to go through is very thin. As you inspect the filter element you will notice that it's fluted...what this means is that it has much more surface area than a ceramic filter like the Katadyn Mini. What this really means is that the Hiker and Hiker Pro will be able to pump much, much faster (1.25 liters per minute vs. 1/2 liter per minute) than the Mini. They also require less maintenance as well.

The benefit of the Mini is that it's small and can be cleaned. The huge disadvantage is it is a pain to use mainly because it's slow. If you are planning on pumping more than a liter per pumping session you will be much better off with the Hiker or Hiker Pro. Just so you know, the difference between the Hiker and Hiker Pro is the Pro model has a fine, mesh screen that covers the fluted fiberglass filter element making it less prone to clog. It also has a quick disconnect of the hose where it attaches to the filter body. Other than these couple of things they are the same...

Unfortunately the picture posted is the wrong one. What is pictured is the AutoFlow, so I would go to www.cascadedesigns.com/msr and check out the Hyperflow Gravity Kit. It's comprised of everything you see with the AutoFlow except the AutoFlow filter element and hose (the kit does include the tube pincher). You simply remove the prefilter from the Hyperflow and attach the Hyperflow's hose to the gray spout. Fill the 4 liter bag with water, hang, extend the Hyperflow (no need to pump), and let gravity do its thing.

The cartridge cannot be used by itself to replace the AutoFlow's filter element. You can backflush the Hyperflow by reversing the flow using gravity, but you must also reverse the orange and black 'duckbill' rubber valves as you would whenever you backflush the Hyperflow. This is not as effective FOR THE HYPERFLOW (not the AutoFlow) as the regular method of backflushing. The only way to backflush an AutoFlow is reversing the flow because of it's self-containment.

I believe this is a huge advantage of the HyperFlow over all other filters on the market because it is so easy to not only pump, but gravity feed as well. Having used it in both configurations in the field many times, I can stand by the claims it makes. Obviously as the filter is used, it will get slower, but that should be expected. (I will work with backcountry.com to get the picture changed to the actual product description...)

Phil, the material used on the Clearstream is different than past Platypus material. The Ziplock is much easier to use, but still takes effort to close. I would pinch, then swipe the ziplock to make sure it's closed. Not taking the time will mean that it won't seal properly. The other thing you should know is the Hyperflow has a Gravity Kit which transforms the Hyperflow into a gravity filter giving you almost the speed of the Clearstream or AutoFlow. It's easy to use by simply replacing the prefilter on the Hyperflow with the hose from the dirty water bag of the Hyperflow Gravity Kit (the bag is very similar to the AutoFlow). You next attach a bottle to the Hyperflow and extend it fully allowing the water to flow. You will get about 1.2 Liters per minute. The benefit to this set-up is you can have the Hyperflow for quick fill-ups and a gravity filter for more basecamp applications.

Machine washing is fine. Be careful when you dry it though. I would use low heat because of the foam insulation.

The Quad is superior to the Tactikka in a few ways...
1) It's made in the USA, not France or China where all Petzl headlamps are made.
2) It has one of the best warranties in the industry...lifetime, not Petzl's 3 year warranty.
3) It's voltage regulated which means that it will maintain it's light output longer. The Petzl's will drop substantially over time. It also has better battery life than the Petzl due to better circuitry.
4) It's 100% waterproof (can be submersed in 3 meters of water for 30 minutes). The Petzl headlamps are not.

You could also go with the Tactical Quad which is the red lens option as well as blue and green lenses. All of the other positives apply to it as well.

There are a few major differences between the Big Agnes Air Core and the Thermarest NeoAir. They are:
1. NeoAir is smaller or at the least the same size. You can get the NeoAir incredibly small! I've actually gotten my Regular NeoAir pad in the small stuff sack.
2. The major difference between the two is that the NeoAir has R-Value, or insulative properties, where as the Air Core does not. This is done by the "Triangular Core Matrix" which uses a reflective safety blanket and air permeable material lamenated to the outer material. Because of this brand new technology, the NeoAir has an R-Value of 2.5, allowing the user to sleep in colder conditions.
3. The NeoAir is much more comfortable because of the 140 baffles vs. the 14 baffles of the AirCore. Sleeping on the AirCore is akin to sleeping on a pool toy. The NeoAir is like sleeping on a regular Thermarest much a tad more thick.

The NeoAir is much more technologically superior to the AirCore.

It's not designed to do this, but it's possible. By putting the poleset into the grommets of the fly, you could then clip the body of the tent on the poles underneath the fly. This, however, is not like a Hilleberg tent that requires you to set up the tent by first pitching the fly and then clipping the tent inside the fly.

The Hubba HP and the Hubba Hubba HP are unique on the market because of their ability to be pitched sans footprint and body allowing for an ultralight fly-only set up. It's one of the best MSR offers.

You will experience less air circulation and warmer conditions inside the tent when things are cold and windy outside it's walls. However, it does as good a job in ventilation as the Hubba due to it's uncoated 20D nylon. There is a vent on the door and on the top of the tent, but this does not effect the warmth of the tent in my experience. If the problem you experienced from the standard Hubba was from wind circulation, the Hubba HP will be warmer inside no doubt. It's the best tent on the market for a single person and the Hubba Hubba HP is the best for two people for extended seasons. You really can't go wrong with it.

Absolutely! I would highly encourage purchasing the DragonFly specific pump especially if you see any indications of cracks or leaking. Because you are dealing with fire and volatile fuel, replacing the pump will be in your best interest. The new pump is much more durable and includes a new windscreen as well. This is a very wise purchase indeed:)!

No they do not. This is not a traditional "convertible" tent like many are used to. MSR chose not to do that because for weight reasons and they feel it's unnecessary mainly because the Mutha Hubba isn't met to be used when snow loads may be encountered.

TX-Direct Tent Proof would be the best bet, but it will need to be reapplied over time. Because the material is silnylon, a waterproofer will rub off much more frequently. The idea behind the E-Bivy is an emergency bivy for the 'just-in-case' moments. It does have a super durable floor and easy in and out via a side half zip. It breaths very well also. For light rain and colder nights in the desert regions this isn't a bad way to go.

The standard answer is it should last approximately 250 gallons before the filter element needs replacing. However this is highly dependent on the quality of water filtered and how often it was cleaned. The best indicator of whether or not the element needs to be replaced is if it can filter or not. If it's really hard to filter or the pressure release valve is spurting water everywhere then you should replace it.

If the filter has sat for 6 months or more without proper maintenance, I would replace it. There isn't a concern on whether or not it will still filter the bugs out of the water (i.e. it's efficacy), but if it can still pump water. I would use that as the determining factor.

The R-Value of the Z-Lite is 2.2 which will take you down to about 25 degrees F with the right sleeping bag. The Z-Lite has many advantages, but lacks in some areas. It is light, puncture proof, inexpensive, and easily packs away. It won't be as comfortable as a self-inflatable mattress nor as warm. When combining the Z-Lite with a NeoAir or Prolite pad will increase the R-Value for winter camping, but if you're not planning on sleeping on snow then this might not be necessary.

To add what Cory Guru has said, the R-Value is 5.1, but what does this mean? R-Value is a mathematic equation that is way over most people's heads (including my own). However, what is good to know is how it will effect your sleep. Generally speaking, an R-Value of about 2.5 will allow someone to sleep at around 20 degrees F if they are a fairly warm sleeper (cold sleepers might get by at freezing). This, of course, also means that the person needs to have the properly rated sleeping bag (high-end down or synthetic doesn't matter, only that it needs to be true to it's temp rating). A true 20 degree F bag must keep the user warm at 20 degree F (if they are a normally warm sleeper...cold sleepers should bump that temp up about 10 degrees F).

A 5.1 R-Value is one of the warmest backpackable mattresses money can buy. This R-Value will work well below 0 degree F, even for a cold sleeper (with the proper sleeping bag). This makes the TrailPro and the TrailPro Womens pads two of the best all-around sleeping pads Cascade Designs offers. They are comfortable (2" thick), backpackable (can be folded in half when rolling up to make them smaller and more packable...use the Trail stuff sack (not the TrailPro stuff sack) to pack as it will fit a folded and rolled TrailPro pad perfectly), durable (Rip-stop nylon and 150D polyester outer material), and warm. If you just want one pad, this is it.

The Hubba Hubba HP uses different materials which have similar durability to the Hubba Hubba. I've also found the body of the Hubba Hubba HP to be as breathable if not more so than the full mesh body of the Hubba Hubba. Because of the cord tensioning ability on each corner of the Hubba Hubba HP, you can pitch it more taught than the Hubba Hubba. The tighter the pitch of a tent, the more weather proof it is. The Hubba Hubba HP also has re-enforcements where the guy out loops are located on the fly. This gives the tent more ability to be pitched in stronger winds without worry of material failing. The floors on both tents are 40D 10,000mm coated which is 4 season worthy. The Hubba Hubba HP is one of the top tents in MSR's line-up and one of the best 3 1/2 season tents on the market.

Your best bet would be McNett's SilNet Silicon Seam Sealer because the Zing's material is a 40D SilNylon. This is the best stuff out there for seam sealing SylNylon material. Make sure you are patient and have a well ventilated area to do this. The Zing is large and will take a bit of the seam sealer, but will pay off in the end. I've used mine without sealing the seams and when under a long sustained rainstorm I do see water seep through the seams (though it hasn't been terrible). Good luck!

You can use a compression sack for this tent! I wouldn't store it in there indefinitely however (keep the original storage sack for this purpose and don't stuff the tent when storing, but fold it...MSR's tents use the best PU coating in the industry so you won't experience deterioration of the coatings were the tent is folded like you would with other brands).

The way I pack my Hubba Hubba is first stuffing in the fly and then the body of the tent. If you have a footprint, you can also stuff that in (first put it in the mesh storage sack and then stuff LAST into the compression sack), but keep in mind it might be wet or dirty. If so, I recommend NOT stuffing this with the tent as mildew and wetness will be transferred especially after everything is compressed. The reason why you put the fly in first is because it is put on after the body is up, and sometimes you might not need to take the fly out. If you put the fly in first, then you will have much more hassle when it comes to setting up camp.

I highly recommend the Granite Gear Air Compressor size Small. This is an ultralight compression sack that fits the body and fly of the Hubba Hubba perfectly. After it's compressed it will be the size of a bloated softball. I also like the 'Block' shape of this compression sack. It makes packing much easier.

No it won't. The reason is the pump the Whisperlite International uses doesn't have an emergency shutoff valve due to the extra flame adjustment valve located on the DragonFly stove. Because of the DragonFly's simmering capability, MSR felt it necessary to design an emergency shut-off valve into the DragonFly's pump. This is why there are two pumps (Standard Pump which will work on all MSR's liquid fuel stoves (Whisperlite, Whisperlite International, Simmerlite, and XGK EX) and the DragonFly Pump).

If you try to use a standard pump with a DragonFly, you will find the fuel line will not fit into the hole required by the DragonFly's fuel line. Visa versa, the Whisperlite International (and all other MSR liquid fuel stoves) won't work with the DragonFly's pump because of the too-large hole which only fits the DragonFly's fuel line.

On the non-hinge side of the headlamp there is a small latch. It's a simple latch that can be opened with some effort. It simply 'clicks' closed and 'clicks' open, but it does take some force (not too much or you will break the plastic pieces). I would be gentle but firm and eventually it will come open. Once open you will need X3 AAA batteries. When you're ready to close it make sure the O-ring is in the right place and you here an audible 'click'.

The reason why the engineers at Cascade Designs (parent company of MSR) chose not to make any of their liquid stoves burn both canister and liquid fuels is based on performance. I can tell you it's been attempted, studied, tested, engineered, thought about, discussed and argued more than any other topic around CDI's production facilities. What they have found is that you either have a stove that performs near flawlessly in extreme weather (like you would find in the Himalayas at their worst) or one that is 'ok' at doing everything. They have come to the conclusion that canister stoves need to burn canister fuel only and liquid fuel stoves need to burn liquid fuel only.

The reasons are many. Liquid fuel stoves, in the opinion of the MSR engineer, should be as reliable as possible. The more 'features' you add to the liquid fuel stove, the more opportunity for failure when it's needed most. Often liquid fuels are dirty, contaminated, not suited for using in a lightweight backpacking stove, and, in some cases, barely burn. MSR believes their liquid fuel stoves must work with these types of fuels. Even if you're talking about white gas only, there are a million different ways white gas can be contaminated. The overall weight of the stove must also be taken into consideration and the stoves that burn every fuel, including canister fuel, are generally much heavier.

Canister fuels are generally contamination free. However, the fuel is much different than one would expect from a liquid fuel. What is not known when manufacturing stoves is that valving, the size of the jet hole, the distance between the burner head and the bottom of the pot, the length of the fuel line, the flame adjuster, etc. are all different on canister stoves vs. liquid fuel stoves if you want optimum performance. What the MSR engineers have not been able to find is the obtaining of optimum field performance from one stove that burns every type of fuel available.

I've had the opportunity to try out most stoves available today in the field and my conclusion is the same as those of the MSR engineers...either you get excellent performance from stoves that are specific to a fuel type, or you get mediocre results from a stove that attempts to be everything for everybody (multi-liquid fuel, canister, lightweight, packable, excellent pot supports, easy to use, stable, wind resistant, etc, etc,). This is currently the status at MSR. However, things might change as new technology and discoveries are made.

It's a Lime Green color (very bright green). The orange colored version was the old Z-Rest sold a few years ago. This new Lime Green is what Cascade Designs (parent company of Thermarest) has decided to use to designate their 'Fast and Light' products.

This new Z-Lite was updated last year with more resilient foam (less prone to flatten out). Because of the new foam, it's more comfortable and will last longer. The older orange colored models don't have this foam...

Usually when these problems present themselves it's due to faulty O-rings. One of the more critical is located in the pump where the On/Off valve is located. My recommendation would be to replace all of the O-rings in the pump and lube each of the O-rings with a small amount of silicon lube (included with the stove and any maintenance kit). This will insure a good seal on all of these O-rings.

The MSR Annual Maintenance Kit will have everything you need to revive the pump and get it working again.

To answer daniel roy's comments...
He makes some valid points. However, many manufacturers add items to their products so that the buyer is duped into buying that item based on freebees. Thermarest believes that it makes the best self-infatable mattresses in the world. If you want a free stuff sack then there are plenty out there offering that, but if you want the best backpacking mattress money can buy then buy a Theramrest.

Cascade Designs believes if they are going to offer something, it's not going to be junk. In offering the stuff sack separately, as a separate item, they offer one that is equal in quality to the mattress. Not only is the quality similar, but the stuff sack is perfectly fitted to the pad it's intended for. This kind of attention to detail and quality of materials doesn't come free nor should it. The benefit really is to the purchaser. They know that they are getting a quality, high-end product both in the mattress and stuff sack that they can take ownership of. It is a few bucks more, but the value is definitely there. A cheap stuff sack or really anything cheap will quickly become garbage resulting in dissatisfaction and disappointment. That is not acceptable to Cascade Designs. If you don't understand this point, then most of the items on backcountry.com may seem way overpriced and lacking in value. Those who do see this, as do all of the folks who work at and for Cascade Designs, sees the value in making the best quality money can buy so that the product works as promised, will last for decades, and will meet the high expectations expected by those who shop on backcountry.com. I would encourage you to look elsewhere (say, Walmart?) if you want free stuff sacks...

I've slept in my Hennesey Hammock several times with and without a pad. What I can tell you is the pad makes things much more comfortable. What I've discovered is the pad doesn't add much in terms of softness to the already soft nature of a hammock, but it does add warmth and a base or an area where I know my body belongs (might be more psychological than anything). My feeling is specifically that the Prolite pad offers the best combination of rigidity and warmth to a hammock without it being a nuisance to get under you. I guarantee you don't want a pad that's thicker than an inch like many air-only or insulated air-only pads which are 2.5 inches thick. You will hate it! Of all the pad combinations I've tired (closed cell vs. open cell foam, both, neither, etc.), the Prolite has been my favorite choice for ease of use, comfort without excess, lightweight and packable, and fits the contours of the hammock very well. This is the pad I would recommend (by the way...the R-Value for the Thermarest Prolite is 2.2).

Being the MSR Rep, I would recommend the standard Hubba Hubba. It is over the $300 threshold, but I think the investment is well worth it. The Hubba Hubba is still (6 years running) the best selling tent in the Outdoor Marketplace. It has a tremendous reputation because of it is freestanding, has great interior room, ease of set-up is fool-proof, two door two vestibule feature set makes it very livable for two people, and is lightweight (4lbs.). The floor is durable and highly waterproof, it has great breathability (very low condensation), and will be one of the best purchases you will ever make.

I know you want to be cautious, but if they have really boiled the water (you've witnessed it), then there's no reason to purify it any longer. Once you bring water to a rolling boil, all of the microbes that will make you sick (protozoa, bacteria, viruses) are gone. However, I would still carry the tablets just in case you run into water that you want to drink that hasn't been boiled. By putting one tablet of MicroPur into a liter of water (X1 Nalgene bottle), and letting it sit for about 30 minutes, you will have safe drinking water. I would be very cautious where you get the water (DO NOT get water from stagnate water source...only use flowing water like from a stream or river). Where you get the water from is as important as how you treat it. Also water around the lip of the bottle or on the lid isn't treated and can make you sick. Make sure you clean the bottle (especially around the lip of the bottle where your mouth will make contact) thoroughly before use. Drying this area of all non-treated water will definitely help. Washing hands (or using anti-bacterial gel) and keeping things as clean as possible will help to make sure you stay healthy. Treating the water is only part of keeping yourself from getting sick!

Geoffrey is right. The only reason why a 0.2 micron filter is needed is for certain bacteria. Giardia and Crypto are easily filtered out with a 1 micron filter.

Because there is no foam, it is perfectly ok to store the NeoAir in it's stuff sack. The only perceived concern really is weakening of the material where the pad folds. Creases are a topic of many gear shops techies as they describe how not to store a tent, etc, but because of the quality of coatings Cascade Designs use on all of their pads, the coatings most likely will withstand decades of folding and usage. I would recommend not storing it in places where there are really warm temperatures (i.e. trunk of a car or in the car period). A gear closet in your house or room would be the best option. Heat is the biggest enemy to any nylon coated with silicon or polyurethane.

You are correct. It's designed to be used only with the Reactor Stove. I wouldn't recommend it for any other stove MSR or anyone else makes.

The PocketRocket's main downfall is the high-intensity heat it puts into a small area. This is great if your boiling water, but if you want to do anything gourmet then it can be difficult. If I want to cook something other than boil water, I keep the flame low which does help to dissipate the flame a bit. As well, anything made with hard anodized aluminum will also help to spread the heat much faster. Titanium is excellent for weight and boiling water, but it is terrible if you want heat dispersion. The MSR Quick 2 cookset is your best bet...

I don't think you'll have any problem with the size of the pot on the XGK EX. The design of this stove was to accommodate 10L pots that expeditions to the Himalayas require. The pot supports on the XGK EX are the best available for larger pots in a backpacking stove.

As always caution should be taken when placing the pot on the stove. This goes without saying, but because the circumference of the pot is much greater than the pot supports on the stove, make sure the pot is as centered as possible. If a little bit of attention is given, you should have no problem.

The Flex 4 is an amazing cookset with the best available materials used. You won't find a better combination of quality, reliability, and features in either of these class of products.

I think this is ok as long as you allow for the proper dwell time (20-30 minutes for giardia and 4 hours for crypto). I would also recommend stirring the water to allow the chemical to effect all of the water in the container. Also don't forget to treat the container itself, meaning the threads and the lid (if applicable). You only need a few bugs to make you sick...

Hanging a liquid fuel stove is a risky endeavor. For one, the idea of hanging the stove and fuel bottle make things tricky. The other issue is lighting the stove and making sure the hanging system is long enough so nothing is caught on fire. I would HIGHLY discourage trying this in a vestibule of a tent. Hanging it outside could be possible, but the rigging needed to do so might be to complicated and weighty. That is why Cascade Designs (parent company of MSR) has not developed one and most likely will never do so.

The only idea I've heard of is using a license plate rigged so it hangs (tying a braided cable into the four corners) and then the stove itself (really any liquid, satellite-type stove) can be placed on top of it. I would also recommend securing the stove onto the license plate somehow (i.e. metal clasp or metal tie like a piece of cable or wire secured to the fuel line and stove). Hanging the stove itself is too risky and complicated to make it a viable option in the backcountry in my opinion.

There are a couple of things to keep in mind when considering both stoves:
1. Simmerlite - this stove was designed for lightweight, cold weather backpacking. If you have access to white gas (which is the case in Quebec) then this stove will be adequate for any winter conditions, no matter the temp. It isn't as bomber as the XGK-EX or has hot burning, but is easy to prime, self-cleaning, light weight (8.5 ounces (not including fuel bottle)), and is more capable of simmering than the XGK-EX (not as good as the DragonFly however). The Simmerlite is also less expensive and very quiet while in use.

2. XGK-EX - This stove is the best performing winter stove on the planet. It was intended for high-altitude mountaineering, but with the new updates, is actually fairly light and easy to use (only 2 ounces lighter than the Whisperlite). It's best features include it's pot supports that will support a 10L pot if needed, a very stable base, burns incredibly hot (for boiling snow), is an easy stove to field maintain (important if your life depends on it), the best multi-fuel stove on the market (can burn almost anything liquid and flammable in a pinch), will be the last stove you buy (super durable), and is fairly light (14 oz. not including fuel bottle). It's not-so-good features include it being super noisy, hard to simmer, heavier than the Simmerlite (but lighter than the DragonFly), can be too hot if not melting snow or boiling water, it's a fuel hog, and may be overkill for an overnight trip (although I know many who use this as their only stove).

The old XGK was one I seldom recommended unless your plans included high elevations and melting snow. However, the new XGK-EX is a whole different animal. I would recommend it to anyone who wants a stove that they can absolutely rely on, will last them several decades, and doesn't mind the noise. It is truly an awesome stove!

It's important to note that the XGK-EX is not compatible with canister fuels. Multi-fuel means that it can burn diesel, gasoline, kerosine, white gas, or other liquid fuels (not alcohol fuels however). Canisters are not compatible with the XGK-EX!

Actually the answers are: yes (with a footprint), yes (with a footprint), and no (if you want to save your sanity). The reason is when the fly is set up with the tent, the fly is actually clipped into the tent, and the smaller pole that's positioned just above the door (crosses the main, larger pole) is placed in the grommet of the tent, not fly (although both can be placed into this grommet, the tent must be where the fly isn't required to be). This grommet is fairly difficult to remove the pole from due to the tension of the pole. There probably is a way, but that way wouldn't be easy or practical. It simply wasn't designed to do this. I think you would find trying it would be far more hassle than it's worth...there is absolutely no way without a footprint.

The Carbon Reflex 2 has subtle differences when compared to the Hubba Hubba which could probably be taken down while the fly remains pitched. Due to the clips in the corner of the Carbon Reflex 2 and the grommets above the door (which also make doing this difficult on the Hubba Hubba), it might be an exercise in frustration. In the case of the Carbon Reflex 2, you must use a footprint to keep the fly pitched, whereas the Hubba Hubba doesn't need one.

I agree with phil maher completely. 0.2 Microns is more than sufficient to get out all of the 'bad stuff' in backcountry water...the stuff that will make you sick (particulates (dirt), protozoa (giardia and crypto), and bacteria (campylobacter is the smallest pathogenic bacteria in backcountry water at 0.2 microns). Viruses that are typically about 0.01 microns, or 10 nanometers in diameter, simply can't be taken out of the water effectively mechanically. Chemicals such as Chlorine Dioxide, Sodium Hypochlorite, and even Iodine (though iodine will make the water taste horrible) do so very easily within about 5 minutes per liter to EPA standard (99.9999%). The issues with a backcountry water filters not only deal with what they can take out efficiently, but how they perform over a certain period of time. As important as efficacy, one has to consider pump volume, size, weight, ease of use, can it be serviced and maintained in the field with little mechanical knowledge, etc. The Hyperflow does all of these well once the basic tenants of this filter are understood. The HyperFlow isn't great for heavily sedimented water or one with a large amount of humic acid or blue-green algae (substances that are notorious for clogging filters...the MiniWorks EX is a better choice). I consider the HyperFlow to be the best high mountain filter available.

It is smart to do some research on the types of water you'll encounter in the area you'll be hiking/backpacking however. This should play a part in what filter you buy.

The best size I've used for packing my Hubba Hubba is the size small Granite Gear Air Compressor Compression Sack. It is about 11L before compressing. Once compressed it is roughly the size of a over-sized softball (obviously without the stakes or poles inside). I've tried the Xsmall compression sack, but it is difficult to get it in initially, making breaking down camp more of a chore.

I really like the Granite Gear Air Compressors because of the new Block shape and durable nature even though it only weighs about 2 oz for the sack. This is what I would recommend...

Really any pad is vulnerable to the claws of a dog. Actually the Prolite's material is thinner than the NeoAirs, but does have the foam that helps back up the material. Your concern about puncture with a dog is a valid one and I would almost recommend a close cell option like the Z-Lite or RidgeRest. However, you might be better off with the TrailPro as this has one of the most durable outer materials made by Cascade Designs. It is heavier, but the durability tradeoff might be worth it.

The NeoAir's material is fairly durable. It is made from a silicon coated nylon ripstop material that is quite substantial. The only concern really is it doesn't have the foam to back it up so if you do experience a puncture or tear, the pad will immediately deflate. If you do decide to try it, I would recommend the Fast & Light Repair Kit that will repair punctures (not tears) very quickly. Hope this helps...

The only major difference I can see is the head room might be better on the MSR Hubba. I personally haven't spent any time in the Marmot Eos, but I have camped at 15,000+ feet in Ecuador on the face of Cotopaxi in the MSR Hubba HP. We had stiff winds all night and the Hubba held up very admirably. It was moving in the wind and did give me some concern at one particular windy gust, but it never collapsed and was in great shape the next day. I was super impressed! My climbing buddies used a Black Diamond tent and they had the same concerns. I know, due to my experiences, that the MSR Hubba HP will take a tremendous amount of wind. The MSR Hubba is the same tent except for all mesh walls vs. nylon walls of the HP.

No. It will fit the Pocket Rocket, but not the canister.

The easiest way to get the batteries out is to use the plastic ladder-lock buckle used to adjust the headstrap. You'll notice a round edge which can be used to pry the battery lid open. In fact, this is what it's designed to do. Simply place the thin, round side of the ladder-lock buckle into the space between the main body and battery lid and pry open. Super easy!

It would definitely offer you significant R-Value, or insulation, between you and the ground. I think you would be amazed at the difference between sleeping on this pad vs. an air-only pad or a tarp. In fact, this is the most insulative self-inflatable pad you can buy! You won't even notice the cold ground with this pad. It's also incredibly comfortable. If comfort and warmth are your main needs (vs. pack size and weight), then this is the best pad available.

However, if you are planning on packing it in, the size and weight is overwhelming. The best all-around winter pad made by Cascade Designs is the Trail Pro. It's 2 inches thick, packs very small, is lightweight (2lbs), and has an R-Value around 5. This is more than adequate, using a properly rated sleeping bag, to keep you warm in the winter.

Another pad that may work that isn't so bulky (and will save you money) is the Thermarest Luxury Map. Very comfortable and very warm.

The best ultralight self-inflatable pad is the Thermarest Prolite Plus. This will require a warmer sleeping bag, but is adequate for winter use. I've used it many times and have slept very well in a tent in sub 0 temps.

I would caution you from doing this. All roll-top closer bags are meant to keep water out, not keep the water inside from leaking out. No roll-top closer is completely waterproof! If you fill it up and throw it inside your car, you will have a big wetspot where it lies.

I would recommend the MSR 10L Dromedary Bag if you want something that will not leak sitting in you car. It's made from 1000D Cordura (super durable), can be converted to a camp shower if needed and also has a Spigot Cap (on-off valve) available for using in a base camp situation. This I would be completely ok throwing in the car situation in any way and not worry about it leaking. Unfortunately it's not as big as the MSR PackShower, but it also won't leak.

They will. However, based on the size of your shoe, I would get the 30 inch snowshoes. 25 inch snowshoes would also work, unless you're planning on going into the backcountry and breaking trails in 30+ deep snow.

I would say that the MSR Lightning Ascents might be the only snowshoes to fit a size 15 boot.

The Annual Maintenance Kit includes all O-rings you will need to replace on the pump. It doesn't include anything for the stove. If all you need are repair items for the MSR pump like various O-rings (including the large, red main O-ring, O-rings for the on/off valve, etc.) then this kit is it.

If you need repairable parts for the stove, then an expedition service kit is your best option. The way I look at it is the Annual Maintenance Kit is like an oil-change for your car. It's recommended that the O-rings for the pump be changed annually (depending how much you use the stove). On the other hand, the Expedition Service Kit is like a transmission overhaul. It has the same parts for the pump as the Annual Maintenance Kit, but also has parts for the stove.

Someone gave me a 'thumbs down', but is what I said not true? I'm sure it was from someone who owns a pair of the Tubbs which is completely understandable. I'm not at all dissing the Tubbs snowshoes, but I personally don't feel they are the best for backcountry snowboarding. One of the best applications for the MSR snowshoes is that they are great for using with snowboard boots. That's the plain and simple truth... MSR snowshoes aren't perfect either which is why it's good that we have a variety of different snowshoes to pick from. The key is to get the right tool for the job...

I agree with knanier. Titanium is all about light weight which means there will be some compromises. There will be some discoloration, particularly blackening of the pot on the outside (not a bad thing by the way) and as Ti gets hot, it also creates different hues of blue where the most intense heat is. However, the biggest issue will be deformation of the pot. Because the walls are so thin, if the Ti material gets too hot, it will warp which could effect how the lid fits on (with the MSR Ti Kettle, the lid is made to fit on snug allowing the user to pour without worry of it falling off. If the pot gets too hot, this may effect greatly how the lid fits). I would caution anyone from using Ti cookware over a fire or really hot coals. If you are careful and continuously monitor the pot as it cooks, then you should be fine. It will take a little more care and attention...

The best material to use over open flame or coals is stainless steel. MSR's Stowaway Pots are excellent and are used by NOLS and various wildland firefighting crews in this manner.

As far as pack size goes, there are several ways you can pack this tent. The way I usually pack it is in a XS Granite Gear Air Compressor (ultra-lite compression sack). By doing this, I can get the body of the tent and the fly down to the size of a softball. The poles and stakes go in other areas and these take up very little room. By doing this (and having a very small sleeping bag (Marmot Hydrogen) and using the NeoAir Mattress), I can take a 2500 cu. in. pack for a week long backpacking trip! If you have a respectable sized sleeping bag and pad, getting the Hubba HP down to a size of a softball will be ideal. This does not hurt the tent, although this is not a good way to store it.

The best way to do it is by stuffing first the fly and then the canopy or main body of the tent and then compress it. Doing it this way allows you to unpack the canopy first which is the first thing you put up. You may not need the fly depending on the weather. It won't hurt the tent to stuff it, again, as long as it's not left this way for more than a few weeks. I always store the tent in it's original stuff sack rolled up inside. Some even take the poles out and store them assembled. If you have enough room to do this, then you can maintain the shock cord in the poles much better this way. I always clean my stakes after a trip is over as well.

Actually the whole top of the tent is one big gearloft. This is good because you can set a flashlight or headlamp in this gear loft (made from no-see-um netting) so it is out of the way. The best way to look at it is more of an attic. This is also how the tent breaths.

There is a zipper access in the middle of the tent which may allow you to hang a light source. I think it is one of the best features I've seen in a tent in a long time...

This stove simmers exceptionally well. A point that I think you've picked up on is that a stove's simmering capability is not only dependent on how well it regulates the fuel, but the flame pattern can have significant impact on how well the heat is dissipated. The SuperFly's flame pattern is one of the best and will allow you to cook as gourmet as you want while miles into the backcountry. The PocketRocket isn't the best at this because it's flame pattern is highly concentrated into a small area although the flame can be regulated fairly well.

Another stove to consider is the MSR WindPro. This is a light stove at 6.8 oz, but not quite as light as the SuperFly (4.6 oz.). It has the same burner head as the SuperFly, but has a lower profile (translation: is far more stable when using larger pots) and can be used with a windscreen. The reason is it's a satellite canister stove, not a sit-on-top type. Not only will the wind screen make the stove more efficient, it will also help to keep heat trapped in, thus making it one of the best gourmet stoves you can buy. It uses a canister and has one of the best fuel regulators (allowing for a more consistent simmer) available today.

Yet another stove would be the MSR DragonFly. It is a multi-fuel stove (can be used with diesel, white gas, unleaded gas, kerosene, etc.). It is not compatible with a IsoPro Canister however. This stove is the best at simmering of any MSR stove made! For a multi-fuel stove that is saying a lot... It isn't ultra-light (weighs in at 17 oz), but if you want one stove to work in cold weather, be indestructible, easy to maintain, great pot-supports, use of multiple fuels (less money to operate), and something you can pass down to your grandkids, this is the one!

I've used a Flex quite a bit and am pretty impressed. It doesn't burn as hot as the SuperFly or WindPro, but packs up really small. It's simmering capabilities are very good. However for the money, I would go with the SuperFly. The main reason is the SuperFly's dependability. One concern with canisters are the threads on the valve which can easily be damaged. Because the SuperFly bypasses these using it's unique clamping mechanism, you can rely on it far more than any other stove out there. It can also use multiple types of canisters (there are 40 different types of canisters in the world...the SuperFly will work on 30 of the 40). The SuperFly doesn't pack as small, but it's larger burner head will give better cooking results based on my own personal experience.

The Raptor is ok, but it suffers from poor wind resistance. It's simmering isn't that great due to the design of the burner head, but the price is good. I guess you get what you pay for... It isn't a bad value when you consider it comes with a piezo ignition, but I tend to steer away from stoves that have this. The reason is they will inevitably fail and then you're left with a stove that doesn't work properly.

I wouldn't recommend these for snowboard boots. The reason is the limited amount of space for the toe section of the boot. I think you will find them very difficult to actually strap the boot in due to this limited space.

There are a couple of snowshoes I would recommend. The top of the list would have to be the MSR Evo Ascent. This snowshoe will accommodate any size foot and any size boot. One of the huge advantages it has for backcountry snowboarding is a Televator Heel Raiser making it easier to climb hills. They are also the best at packing flat when strapped to your pack when you are ready to bomb down the hill on your snowboard. The Evo Ascents are some of the most durable snowshoes available as well.

The other snowshoe I would recommend is the MSR Lightning Ascent. These are also great for accommodating any size foot and boot, but actually have better traction than the MSR Evo Ascent. They are lighter as well, will pack flat on your winter pack, and have a Televator. They do cost a bit more, but the benefits might be worth it. Either of these shoes are the best at backcountry access and especially for backcountry snowboarding.

The other problem I have with the Tubbs snowshoe is the use of nylon webbing. Anyone who's used nylon webbing in wet & icy conditions knows they will freeze. I'm actually amazed that companies are still using nylon webbing straps! Nylon stretches when it gets wet and is then difficult to keep tight. The user is then constantly needing to readjust his/her bindings.

The traction on this snowshoe is ok, but nowhere near the traction one will get from the MSR Lightning Ascent. Most people who backcountry snowshoe need all the traction they can get. MSR was the first to incorporate a 'heel raiser' and the combination of these two elements (ultimate traction and the heel raiser) means these shoes allow the user to get up the hills with much less effort. They are also significantly lighter than the Tubbs (almost a pound per pair lighter).

The other thing that needs to be mentioned about the MSR vs. the Tubbs in terms of backcountry snowboard use is that they pack flat. The Tubbs is much more bulky on a pack and therefore can be a hassle when throwing on your pack. This is a huge negative as far as I'm concerned.

I also like the fact that the MSR snowshoes are field repairable. This means that if a pivot or a strap breaks, the person can fix it in a few minutes and keep on hiking. The Tubbs straps are riveted into the binding and are therefore near impossible to fix in the field.

I also love the fact that all MSR snowshoes are made in the USA! Tubbs are made in China.

So really the mere fact that MSR bindings are really optimum for snowboard boots is just the tip of the iceberg. I would recommend MSR snowshoes all around. There may be those who are upset that I'm dissing Tubbs snowshoes, but facts are facts. Sorry...

I would recommend the MSR Evo Ascent snowshoes. They will be more comfortable to walk in based on their slimmer profile in the rear. They where actually designed after much consideration to provide an easier-to-walk-in snowshoe.

The MSR Denali Ascents would be better than the Atlas 30 inch due to them being smaller. Because you also have the ability to add an 8 inch tail, this snowshoe gives you options that no other branded snowshoe can. Either if you go with the Evo Ascent or the Denali Ascent you will be better off.

Yes, they are sold as a set. However, if you want tails, they are sold seperately. Tails are used to help make the snowshoe longer allowing the user to use these snowshoes in deeper snow. Most of the time (and depending on weight of the user and how much weight is carried) the tails are not needed.

Unfortunately the grim reality is you will sink in deep powder no matter what snowshoe you wear. There are options such as the 30 inch MSR Lightning Ascents that would give you more loft and accommodate your shoe size much better. These are far more aggressive snowshoes but the pair weighs less than the Evo Ascents with tails. Really they are amazing snowshoes. These are the ones I would recommend.

As far as the trekking pole snow baskets are concerned, Komperdell makes the poles for MSR which means that you could use any basket they make. Komperdell does make a larger basket for deep powder, although I don't know where they're sold. I would do a search for Komperdell dealers and/or poles to see where you might be able to purchase them. You may be able to get them directly from Komperdell.

One thing to remember is the modern day snowshoe isn't made to keep you on top of the snow, but rather displace the snow allowing you to not posthole. The best technique is to lift your foot out of the snow just enough to allow the very front of the snowshoe to be exposed and then push the snow. If you pick up your feet completely out of the snow you're defeating the purpose of the snowshoe.

As far as the size of snowshoes go, the general rule is if I'm sinking above my waist then I should get a size bigger snowshoe. You should normally sink about knee deep, and if you're carrying weight it's likely you will sink about mid thigh in the kind of snow you're experiencing on the Grand Mesa.

I agree completely with mobo2112. The difference between products largely depends on construction, fit, and materials. In the hierarchy of products, there should always be the high-end innovative product to counteract the middle and lower tiers. Westcomb represents the small, high-end product that few may be able to afford, but what represents the best that's available. As far as fit goes, nobody does it better. Westcomb may take up to 6 months, an eternity in technical outerwear, to finalize a pattern. This is a result of a passion and attention to detail that few of us can understand. The people involved are extremely talented in pattern making and are some of the best in the world at their craft. Their construction is as perfect as they can make it, which takes longer and requires less acceptance of error. An example is stitches per inch. The standard among most outerwear companies including Patagonia, North Face, Mountain Hardware, and Marmot is 8-10 stitches per inch. Westcomb believe that 20+ stitches per inch is the only thing acceptable. This requires they use a ball-point needle so they don't actually cut the material as they stitch it. Finally, the materials used are the best the world has to offer. The Westcomb Skeena Jacket and Hoody represent this better than any jacket made. It is a proprietary material, meaning that it is exclusive to Westcomb because they've worked with the material manufacturers to create it. They source the various layers from all over the world to bring to market a truly innovative solution. The outer layer comes from the same factory that produces Polartec Powershield, arguably one of the best softshell materials made. It's incredible hand and durability make it legendary in softshell technology. The middle layer is eVent, the most breathable laminate available today. So not only is the material windproof, it is completely waterproof. EVent is the undisputed champ in waterproof/breathable technology (far better than even Gore-Tex). The third layer, or the inner most layer, is MAP merino wool which is the best outsourced merino available to manufacturers who aren't producing their own wool. Westcomb uses the best they have available as well as the lightest weight they make, making the material thin but warm and comfortable. By combining these three layers the result is a 3-ply softshell material that is unmatched by any other outwear manufacturer today. Yes, you will pay a premium for these efforts, but it will be the best softshell you will ever own. For me, I am grateful that there are those who go to such lengths to make this available to the general public. In my opinion, the Skeena Jacket and Hoody are worth every penny!

The white substance pictured is the glue used to hold the black rubber top to the ceramic/carbon material. This shouldn't cause any pumping problems.

Typically what I see when someone has problem with their Miniworks EX is to check the duckbill valve located where the hose connects to the filter. By unscrewing the black plastic piece you will find the duckbill valve located inside. If it is ripped, damaged due to deformation (permanent creases, etc.), or otherwise damaged you should replace it (included in the Miniworks Repair Kit).

If this isn't the problem, I would then check the umbrella valve located underneath the head of the filter (red, flat valve that pops into the bottom). Usually there's a rock or some other debris logged in it not allowing it to sufficiently close.

If the filter works properly, it is the most thorough of any filter on the market. This means that any sickness you've experienced was most likely due from some other contamination (dirty hands, dirty and/or contaminated container, etc.). However, if the ceramic filter element is cracked then this might allow for contaminated water to enter in. I would inspect the element very thoroughly.

If none of these things work, I would recommend sending it back to Cascade Design. I would call them at (206) 505-9500.

Because of the stiff material, you should be able to hang them and pull the two sides out so the opening stays open. This has also worked for me when drying the DromLite bags. Letting it sit for a few days makes sure that it will dry completely.

I've also used a Camelbak hang dryer that keeps it open, but usually find it unnecessary.

The Evo Tails won't work, but the Denali Tails (both 4" and 8") will. Here's the link: http://www.backcountry.com/outdoorgear/MSR-Denali-Snowshoe-Flotation-Tails/CAS0116M.html.

They are pretty straight forward when putting them on. Once on, they won't rattle or become loose. The 4" tail will extend your snowshoes from 21 inches to 25 inches and the 8 inch tails will extend them from 21 inches to 29 inches. Our most popular size of tail, and the one I would recommend for you, is the 4" tail. They seem to be the best compromise between extra float without too much extra weight and size.

Unfortunately it won't. The large NeoAir is 25" wide and Big Agnes' large size bag is still only 20" wide. Big Agnes makes their large pad 20" wide, but about 6 inches longer to fit inside their large bags. The NeoAir Regular would fit, which is what I would recommend, even though it isn't the full 6'6" length of the large Big Agnes Lost Ranger. By using a pillow (something worth carrying now based on the space and weight you will save by having a NeoAir) you can make up for the extra 6 inches.

In terms of the differences between the Air Core and the NeoAir, the major difference is in comfort. Although they are both 2.5 inches thick, the NeoAir will be easier to find the 'sweet spot' or the point where you feel the most comfortable. This has been the advantage of foam based, self-inflatable pads vs. air only mattresses, but the NeoAir, with its horizontal baffles also does this very well. The NeoAir also offers R-Value, or insulation from the ground without sacrificing size and weight, unlike Big Agnes' insulated AirCore. The NeoAir packs down as small and weighs in at 14oz for the regular (19oz for the large). It is one of the hottest outdoor products of 2009 for good reason...

The picture shown here isn't a very good representation of what the Bunkroom is. I would check out this (http://cascadedesigns.com/MSR/Tents/Basecamp-Tents/Bunk-Room-4P/product) directly off of Cascade Designs' website. You will also find the dimensions here. What the Bunkroom offers is an inner tent that will allow you to be protected from bugs and has a bath tub floor to insure waterproofness. The BoardRoom set-up is one of the most versatile family tents you can buy.

I wish it did, but it doesn't. What you will see is a plume of steam come out of the small hole in the lid. The best part about this tea kettle is that the lid fits on tightly so as you pour, the lid won't fall off. This is a benefit over other backpacking tea kettles because it gives you a larger opening to use for melting snow, adding or subtracting to whatever you are boiling, and allowing you to use it as a pot or mug. Similar kettles have very small openings that only allow you limited access and are more difficult to clean. It's become a standard among many ultra-light backpackers...

You can actually set up this tent without a footprint (or the body). This is done by simply putting each pole in the grommets located at each corner of the fly. The cross pole also has a set of grommets in the fly near the door. This takes about 30 seconds to do and will cover 3 people based on the size of the fly. The total weight of this set-up is about 1.5lbs and is what makes the Hubba Hubba so versatile. It's true you can use a footprint if you want protection from the ground, but isn't necessary. So, in essence, there is actually four different ways you can set it up; the body, fly, poles, and footprint; body, fly, and poles; fly, poles, and footprint; OR fly and poles only. It is an awesome tent!

The one pictured on backcountry.com is the older version of 'Blue Night'. Most likely this is the one they have in stock. They are identical other than the coloring differences. I personally like the look of both versions, but I don't know where the most current color (blue/grey) is available. You might need to contact Westcomb directly.

To add to what's been said...this tent would work in the summer, but there will be compromises. Some of these include: weight (although this tent isn't crazy heavy, there are 3 season tents that are half it's weight), ease of set up (it is a bomber tent, but can be a challenge to set up because it is made to withstand snow loads), doors are on the small side to keep spindrift (blowing snow) out, and ventilation in humid conditions might mean condensation. If you are wanting one tent for winter camping and summer camping, this tent is as good as you will find. For winter camping there isn't a better 2-man tent on the market, and winter is really where a quality tent becomes super important. I've used it in every season and have always come away impressed and proud to own one. One of the features I really like is the hooped vestibule which gives you a large space to store your pack, boots, wet gear, etc. without dragging them into the tent. As long as you understand some of the trade-offs, I don't think you'll be disappointed.

There are some compelling reasons why you would want to buy the new pump, but it isn't necessary. If the old pump is working then there's really no need to replace it. I would give the old pump a thorough inspection most especially looking at the O-rings (the big O-ring where the pump screws into the fuel bottle is the most critical). If you see any cracking of the rubber or any cracks on the pump itself I would replace it. This is not a warranty issue since it's most likely due to normal use. If you suspect it is a warranty issue, call Cascade Designs at (800) 505-9500 and they will issue you a Return Authorization Number. You will need to send it back and, after they inspect it, determine that it isn't a warranty issue then they will repair it for a reasonable fee. They can help you over the phone if you have specific questions...

The new pump will allow you to simmer better (not like a canister stove, but gives you one full rotation of adjustment vs. the old pump that gives you no rotation adjustment). It's also much more durable, won't spray fuel when you release the pressure after unscrewing it, and is much easier to maintain (no leather plunger). It also comes with a new windscreen which is a $10 value.

My opinion is the $35 for the new pump is money well spent and will upgrade your stove to the latest version of the Whisperlite. The most resent updates to the Whisperlite have to do entirely with the pump, not the stove.

When compared to the Denali Classics, MSR's entry level shoe, the 'new' binding on the Evo Ascent has a more durable polymer (vs. the hypalon-type material used on the Denali Classic) that's been proven in extreme temperatures and conditions. It allows the binding to remain flexible in super cold temps, it has a tendency to stand up allowing for easy entry, but it also collapses for easy packing. The texture on the bottom of the binding help to keep the foot from sliding as well.

The other benefit are the aluminum pieces that allow for easier strap adjustments. These are not only easier, but more securely hold the strap in place when things get wet and icy. The MSR Evo Ascents are one of the most durable and capable backcountry snowshoe you can buy...

Personally, I think the Hercules would be warmer, but I also think it's overkill for casual wear. With it's durable face material and performance fit, it's better suited as an active alpine climbing piece or backcountry mountaineering ski jacket. I would get the Atom for using it around town because it's lighter and doesn't necessarily need to be so durable. You can stuff the Atom in a small pack, it won't look so techy (something to consider when going to the grocery store), and it will give you all the warmth you need for wearing it around town. You will still have the outdoor look no doubt and I really like it because it could also be used as a lightweight dayhike or summer mountain backpacking jacket. The Hercules is really limited to fall/winter use. Just my opinion...

The way I look at a minivan, when compared to a car, is it has a ton more room to haul gear...and kids. So in that vein, no, it's not that dorky...

In regards to the whether or not the Quickback will fit a minivan, the answer is yes! It should fit nicely. In fact it's one of the easiest and quickest fitting strap-style bike carriers you can buy. It also comes with a security cable (has woven steel cables inside the nylon strap) to give it some security. The anti-sway holders are also a nice feature.

The weight listed actually is the minimum weight, or 'trail weight' often seen by other manufacturers. What this refers to is the weight of the poles, fly, and canopy (or main body of the tent). This weight does not include the stakes (some manufacturers include more stakes than others which doesn't make this a fair weight comparison...you should ALWAYS bring stakes to stake down your tent whether it be free standing or not). The reason manufacturers use this weight, along with the packaged weight, is so the consumer can compare the different weights consistently from one manufacturer to the next. A good example of this is a tent that might include a big, hefty owners manual that you would never take with you on a backpacking trip verses another tent on the sales shelf that has only a 3-fold pamphlet as the owners manual. It would be totally unfair to say the one with the big manual is heavier...therefore there are the two weights listed in most tent's specs. Again they are packaged weight and minimum, or trail, weight.

This weight does not include the footprint which is generally about 6 ounces. Therefore I would tack on 6 ounces to the total of the minimum weight to get a pretty good ballpark of how much the tent will weigh in your pack. Footprints are seldom included with the tent and are bought separately...a footprint is highly recommended because it will keep your tent investment in pristine condition. Footprints aren't necessarily needed for extra waterproofness however. They are there mainly to protect the floor from dirt, rocks, pine gum, etc. It's much less expensive to replace a footprint than the main body of the tent if the floor gets trashed...

It does! It comes with anti-sway mounting hardware that not only make it easier to secure the bikes, but keeps them in a fairly stable condition so they don't hit each other. Other manufacturers don't include this with their strap bike mounts which is a huge plus for Yakima.

The other great thing with this bike rack is how easy it is to mount to a car. In fact, it is the easiest on the market while inflicting the least amount of damage. Without even reading the directions, you'll have it on your car in a couple of minutes! It also comes with a security strap that has metal cable at it's core that locks the bikes and the bike rack to the car if you leave it for whatever reason. You're going to love the Quick Back 2!

Actually those three holes in the metal traction bars that run along the bottom of the shoe aren't meant to be used for foot size adjustments. If you do happen to force the Televator into one of these holes, the Televator won't work. The holes are there to accommodate different styles of snowshoes, not to be used as an adjustment. To help Cascade Designs in keeping costs down, they have one templet that's used to cut the traction bars on all models of MSR snowshoes.

Uh...not sure how to answer this? If you're serious, then I will tell you they are snowshoes. If you don't know what that is, I would recommend googling it.

MSR Denali Evo Ascents are on the intermediate/advanced spectrum of snowshoeing. So, if you like to climb, need durability, want to use more aggressive boots, traction is a must, and like the idea of extending your snowshoes based on the snow conditions and weight you're carrying, these snowshoes are the best available.

The 'short' size's torso length ranges from 14" to 18". The Regular size is from 18" to 22". The other critical consideration are waistbelt size and shoulder strap size. The best way to find this information is going to www.granitegear.com and clicking on the Nimbus Meridian Ki link. This will give all the sizes of waistbelts and shoulder straps. One thing to note is the women's waistbelt is curved inward to more closely resemble the angle of women's hips. This is good because more of the belt will contact the hips creating less pressure points. It will also help the pack from sliding down which puts more pressure on the shoulder straps. If fitted right, you won't find a more comfortable, durable, and lightweight pack available from anyone!

You should also check out the sponsored athlete section within Granite Gear's website (look at the very bottom). Here you will read about Justin Lichter who hiked 10,000 miles in one year using one pack, the Nimbus Meridian. It's the only pack every made to make this claim. The only issue Justin had with the pack was a couple of small holes chewed through by some mice. He had no issues with seams, zippers, webbing, or buckles. The foam was even in pretty good shape at the end. This is a really nice pack!

You shouldn't have any problems with your shoe size. This snowshoe will actually fit from women's size 4 to men's size 14. In a recent clinic, I had a woman with size 6 try on a pair to see if the Televator worked, which it did. The Televator doesn't need to be in the middle of the heel area, either. All it needs to do is give the user enough purchase to put weight on it. Obviously a shoe or boot with a very flexible sole will have problems with this. I would recommend using a hiking boot that contains a nylon or polyurethane shank, especially in the heel, to fully utilize the Televator.

If you are still concerned, the MSR Women's Lightning Ascent has a smaller binding than the Evo Ascent. This will work flawlessly with your size 6 foot :).

It depends on the car you drive. According to Yakima's Fit Guide, the most common size for a 48 inch crossbar is a 38 inch fairing. However there are numerous examples of different sizes (from 32" to 44") using a 48 inch crossbar depending on the car you drive...

You need the 44 inch fairing which fits the 58 inch bar. This should really cut down on any noise you're experiencing...

There is an incredible amount of marketing spin when it comes to w/b laminates. Gore-Tex would have you believe that it has the superior product as would eVent for obvious reasons. Based on the price of the garments offered from various manufacturers, if you're paying $400+ you had better be sure that you're getting the best, most capable piece made! Their entire reputation is dependent on how breathable their respective laminate is...

I would disagree, in part, to what the head of the Arc'teryx Soft Good Design guy has said. He has totally bought into Gore-Tex spin. The fact is the Sweating Hot Plate Test that Gore uses makes them look better. It's essentially a test done by using a porous metal plate that's heated allowing steam to work on the inside of the suspended material. This, in essence, shows how much water vapor can pass through the membrane at any given humidity level. As the steam passes through, it's resistance is recorded which gives it it's RET reading (the less resistance, the more breathable). The RET is a scale that lumps all w/b laminates into a series of categories starting with extremely breathable, then very breathable, then somewhat breathable, and so on. Gore-Tex ProShell and eVent fall into the Extremely Breathable Category, but doesn't give much detail other than that.

A better test is the DMPC (Dynamic Moisture Permeation Cell) Test developed by Dr. Gibson of the US Army. It essentially tests not only the inside humidity (Sweating Hot Plate Test only tests humidity INSIDE the jacket), but the outside humidity as well. It should be noted that there are ton of other variables, such as the face material and the person's metabolism, that can also effect the laminates breathability. Because of all these variables, the best test is the actual usage of the materials in real world conditions.

One erroneous comment made by Arc'teryx's Soft Good Designer is that eVent becomes contaminated over time with oils, This is simply false! They use an encapsulation technology that essentially coats all of the ePTFE nanofibers with an oleophobic (oil-hating) polymer. Gore-tex does this by using a hydrophilic (water loving), monolithic (solid) polyurethane membrane. The key here is that it's SOLID, meaning the water has to diffuse through the membrane. eVent on the other hand works because it is completely porous. There is no solid membrane holding back the vapor. This is the great secret! Therefore eVent will ALWAYS be more breathable than Gore-Tex until they can do away with the PU membrane! By the way, on the RET scale, eVent is 3-5 vs. Gore-Tex ProShell at 4-6.

What Dr. Gibson's findings showed eVent works from 30% (high humidity inside the jacket) to 200% (low or no humidity inside the jacket) better than Gore-Tex. The bottom line is you will feel clammy in a Gore-Tex shell and not so in an eVent one.

Event is simply more breathable! Companies can use any form of marketing they want, but in the end, the fact remains that eVent is the king of breathability, period.

Durability is a question and eVent hasn't been on the market long enough to show any superiority here. Gore-tex has been around for 30 years and has been shown to be very durable in extreme conditions. The question resides with the manufacturer. Westcomb uses a process which forces the glue through the membrane onto the face material when taping the jacket. It is incredibly durable and has seen very few delamination problems. Gore-tex's argument that over the course of time eVent clogs is simply false. There is simply no evidence of this. I put it to Gore-tex or Arc'teryx to show some real world data that would show this is the case. I call it marketing spin!

The two best manufacturers of outerwear currently are Arc'teryx (Gore-Tex) and Westcomb (eVent). You will see similar construction (i.e. 16th of an inch seem tolerance, narrow seam tape, 20-25 stitches per inch) and fit (both are the top of the pyramid in this aspect). If breathability is really important, and it should be, I would go with Westcomb! However, Arc'teryx has a huge selection of incredible jackets and outerwear that are all immaculately made. Where I agree with the Arc'Teryx Soft Goods Guy is in his comment that an 'important consideration in buying a jacket is Design, Construction, and Materials'. Other than using Gore-tex in materials, Arc'teryx has few rivals...Westcomb really being the only one (in my opinion).

There is a tremendous amount of information on the web concerning Gore-Tex and eVent. REI's Expert Advice under "Rainwear: How It Works" is one of the best I've found. They, of course, sell both Gore-Tex shells and eVent so you should expect a fair treatment of both products. They have also come to the conclusion that eVent is far more breathable. Get the Facts!!!

It won't. Currently it only works in round mugs. Hopefully there's a change coming...

Here are the DoubleDown 2's dimensions:

About 44” high & 28” extension from hitch bolt hole (13" when folded.) About 11.5” between back of mast and hitch bolt hole. Distance from the bolt hole to part of the rack nearest the vehicle is 9". Distance between arms is 12" (center to center).

The 'mast' is what you would call the upright element on the rack. So it looks like it's only 11.5" from the HITCH BOLT HOLE (not the 2" receiver face) and the MAST (or the upright element). I would measure from the hitch bolt hole to the outer surface of the spare tire to get the best idea whether the DoubleDown 2 will fit...

I would recommend the Evo Ascent snowshoes as they are tapered in back. The shape of the snowshoe can make a big difference in how well they walk. The Denali Ascents are awesome shoes, but for women, the shape of the Evo makes it much easier to walk in.

The Evo also gives you a better binding system making it easier to get in and out. The straps are easier to adjust as well (women's feet tend to be smaller than men's thus the necessity of adjusting the straps is more prevalent). The blue Evo Ascent was made available on MSR's snowshoe line because they felt it was the best, most aggressive, plastic snowshoe for women.

As far as size goes, the only smaller shoe would be a kids shoe. Twenty-two inches is the standard 'small' size available from most manufacturers (unless it's a running shoe or a kids shoe). If you want a narrower snowshoe, then the MSR Women's Lightning Ascent Snowshoe might be a better choice...

The initial picture is wrong. The 4 detailed pictures are the correct tent. If you'll notice, the detailed pictures show only two poles that intersect at the top. There is no 'hub' on this tent, only two carbon fiber poles. Thus it is not freestanding because it has to be staked out in order for it to stay upright.

Having said that, I've used this tent in some pretty severe conditions. The most severe was at Ticomb Basin in the Wind Rivers. Here it blew on average of about 30 miles an hour and snowed on us as well. However, when this tent is staked out, it is almost immovable. The carbon fiber poles are stiffer than aluminum and the materials are similar to those used by both the standard Hubba Hubba and Hubba Hubba HP. For the weight, there isn't a better tent that is as weather proof nor as roomy.

I call this tent a 'semi-freestanding tent' because I believe the best features of a freestanding tent is that you can shake it out before packing it up and move it to the best campsite after setting it up. All tents need to be staked, period. Most non-freestanding tents collapse onto themselves making it hard to move once set up and shake out after when needing to pack it up. The Carbon Reflex 2 Tent can be shook before packing and moved once set up. However it has to be staked out to be useable...

This is a an excellent tent, super lightweight, very weatherproof, easy to set up, and very durable for as light as it is (has a 10,000mm coated floor). No compromises here...

These would be excellent snowshoes for her! They are one of the best backcountry snowshoe options available (the other being the MSR Women's Lightning Ascents). They offer incredible traction, indestructibility, bindings that fit hiking boots to heavy winter boots, are field maintainable, and have the option to put on a 'tail' in deeper snow. These tails extend the snowshoe's length thus giving it more surface area for deeper snow...something often found in the backcountry (especially between trees). These require specific Evo Tails, not Denali Tails and come in one size (6 inch).

The other option is the Denali Evo Ascents. These are identical to the Evo's, but give the user a heel riser making it significantly easier to climb steeper terrain. I always recommend this feature to people because it really works and can make the difference in a long backcountry hike while climbing extended hills. When not needed, the heel riser simply folds down out of the way.

These snowshoes are also unisex, but are better for women than the MSR Denali Classics due to their taper in the rear. For women, a narrow tail is really important as this will greatly increase their walking comfort over the course of a few miles. The MSR Evo (only come in red) and MSR Evo Ascents (come in baby blue and black) are MSR's best women's plastic shoes.

Arc Teryx searches the globe to find new materials that distinguishes them above other outerwear companies. This vigilance also costs more money, but more often than not the result is a product that is the best of class in the category.

Although I don't own an Atom Jacket, I've checked it out pretty thoroughly and am quite impressed. The outer material (Luminara Nylon) is simply a high-tenacity, tightly woven 20D material that has a great hand. It felt like it had enough durability to withstand some backcountry use, although it still needs to be treated fairly nice.

The Coreloft Insulation is something I had never heard of, but I don't think it's proprietary to ArcTeryx. There was a hang tag listing what it's comprised of, but I don't know who is making it? It's essentially a combination of Primaloft (short staple fibers) and Polarguard or Climashield (Continuous Filaments) thus giving it both the softness of down (Primaloft) but giving it the added durability that plagues Primaloft (Polarguard). The jacket also had stretch panels and had an excellent fit including articulated, curved sleeves. For an ultra-light synthetic piece, I haven't seen it's equal (the closest being Montbell's ThermaWrap Jackets).

If you decide to go with this pack (I wouldn't recommend it) I would also recommend getting it in the Magnesium Gray color as this will draw much less attention to you and will be more conservative as required by the Church. I'm thinking the biggest problem you will face is theft. As many who have served missions in US cities knows, missionaries draw a lot of attention. I would be wary of getting something that looks expensive or is desirable by malcontents. There will be plenty of time after your mission to get the cool gear. Besides just think how much better it will be when you get the better pack after using a lesser pack for two years? I call this the 'Huffy' principle.

I would look for a general backpack with descent shoulder straps and large YKK branded (size 10) zippers (most common failure are the zippers). I would check out the North Face Daypacks on this site. They use YKK size 10 zippers. I would also get one that is black with the least amount of 'flash' possible. Don't go to Walmart or Target either. I would stick to a specialty outdoor shop or a good outdoor website (like backcountry.com) to find this type of pack. I guarantee after a few months in the field whatever kind of pack you have won't matter much as long as the zippers still work and it is fairly comfortable to carry. Just my two cents. Good luck on your mission!

They do. The universal mounting hardware on the Powderhound will fit the factory rack of the Subaru Forester. If you don't have a factory rack (naked roof), you will need Q-Towers, clips, and bars along with the Powderhound accessory. The Forester's factory siderails and crossbars are pretty strong so, if you have these, all you need to buy is either the Powderhound (only carries 4 pairs of skis or 2 snowboards) or Big Powderhound (carries 6 pairs of skis or 4 snowboards). I would recommend going with the Big Powderhound as you will regret not having the ability to carry more skis at some point.

You're in luck! The new Powderhounds are currently shipping with lock cores! These are included in the package and are super easy to install.

I would recommend getting a new pump. If anything is broken on the original pump it should be considered unserviceable and discarded. The reason is you are dealing with a very volatile fuel (white gas) and fire. If any of the fuel leaks out or the pump doesn't seal properly to the stove, you risk having the whole thing light up like a Christmas tree. I've seen it and it's not pretty. There are some neat advantages in getting the new pump anyway. For one, it's more durable. Two, it gives you better simmering capability, and three, it comes with a brand new windscreen. It's well worth the money and will update your Whisperlite significantly. It is one of the few upgrades that is strongly recommended. The Standard Pump is what you want...

Though this stove looks like it would work as a tent heater, DON'T DO IT! Most would set the heat to low (this stove burns very hot) which is the worst possible setting because this is where it puts out the most carbon monoxide (carbon monoxide displaces oxygen in the lungs which results in suffocation). The reason is the flame has to get above 3,000 degrees F in order for the heat to bond carbon molecules creating carbon dioxide (harmless gas). Thus, on LOW, the Reactor puts out enough carbon monoxide to be worrisome and is seriously not recommended. Even inside a vestibule you have to make sure you have adequate through ventilation. For the record, MSR strongly recommends not using the Reactor inside an enclosure. It is up to you if you wish to follow this advice or not. If you do, use on HIGH as this will put off more carbon dioxide and less carbon monoxide.

The MSR Lightning and Lightning Ascent snowshoes are designed to bite into the side of the hill when traversing. Because of the thin frame, you get much more penetration into the snow (even hard snow) than the tube of the Atlas snowshoes. Because of this, Atlas decided to allow their binding some movement. MSR felt that a more stable, solid pivot was important and to allow the snowshoe's frame to sink deeper into the snow.

One unique feature of the Lightning snowshoes is that the whole frame articulates allowing some movement to occur, kind of like a suspension for your snowshoes. This is far different from a standard tube-style snowshoe which doesn't flex at all. So, essentially, MSR has moved the flexing from the binding and pivot (no flex) to the frame (flex), unlike Atlas which engineered their snowshoes to allow the binding to flex but not the frame. I personally feel that it is a huge benefit that the binding and pivot are solidly set into the snowshoe without movement vs. it moving or flexing. This makes controlling the snowshoe much easier (i.e. side stepping, backing up, getting up after a fall, etc.).

Also worth mentioning is the incredible traction you get with the Lightning snowshoes when compared with any other snowshoe on the market. Because it mimics a cookie cutter when slicing into the snow, you simply don't slip. Rather than relying on a couple of sets of crampons riveted on to the bottom, the Lightning's frame acts as the crampon. Nothing compares! So for traversing a snowy slope and climbing up a steep hill, even in powder snow, there is not a better snowshoe on the market!

Yes, the E-Wing could be used as an emergency poncho as it does have a hood. It is made to be an emergency shelter and isn't designed to take prolonged downpours (ie. seams aren't taped and the material is uncoated SilNylon). I've used it in light shower situations and have even been in heavy rain, although for only about 30 minutes. I didn't experience any severe leaks and was pleasantly surprised. It's super easy to set up and can be configured in many different ways. I think it's a must for anyone who doesn't want to carry a full shelter and uses trekking poles. Perfect for long dayhikes and summer weekend backpack trips (making sure the weather will be at least moderately good) where weight and pack size is critical...

I weighed my Specter LT Hooded Jacket size medium on a Sunbeam SP5 Electronic Scale and it came to 11.3 ounces (320 Grams). I absolutely love this jacket, not only for it's light weight, but excellent hood and fit. I can wear it by itself, but it also allows me to layer without feeling constricted. Obviously the Event 3-Ply material breaths exceptionally well which makes it an everyday jacket for me. Well worth the money...

The proper nesting size of deep-dish plate for the Base 2 Pot Set is the small size. The medium and large are made for the MSR Flex Cookset.

They are not. The total volume of each is 12.5 ounces, but there is no calendaring inside the mug. For what it's worth, the strength of this mug is how it fits in your hand. I personally feel it's much better than a handle and will fit small and large hands just the same. I also like that it's just as light as my titanium double wall mug and insulates very well.

MSR recommends these shoes be used by children (or adults) that weigh up to 90 lbs. According to MSR, these snowshoes will fit foot sizes from size 7.5 to 13.5 (adults from 1 to 4.5).

The thing that makes these so great for kids is that they are easy to get on and once on (if properly secured), won't need to be readjusted or messed with. They track very well and the kids soon don't even notice they are on their feet. This is in contrast to the 'toy' type shoes that mimic 'paw-prints' etc. Paw-Print-type shoes use cheaper plastics, aren't as secure, and are too wide as the child will be constantly stepping on them. The Tykers are much narrower and thus allow the child to run, change directions, and, with the incredible traction for a kids shoe, climb just about anything.

The Length of this shoe is 17 inches (43.2cm).

I'm not trying to be anal or anything, but after measuring it, I actually got 9cm (a little under 3.5in) tall and a diameter of 12.2cm (4.75in). This more precise measurement may mean the difference, or it may not. If not, no worries...

The Apex Pro uses smaller CR123 Lithium batters whereas the Regular Apex uses 4 AA batteries. There are pros and cons to both.
Apex Pro:
Pros - Having a smaller battery pack (CR123 batteries are 3V vs. AA's which are 1.5V...this allows the Pro to put out just as much light using two significantly smaller batteries), cold weather performance due to the lithium batteries, carrying spares aren't a big deal, no need to use the center strap.
Cons - Batteries wear out faster, only one battery option.

Apex:
Pros - Longer battery output, multiple battery options (lithium, rechargeable, alkaline).
Cons - Heavier battery Pack, carrying extra batteries can be heavy, bulkier, must use the included middle strap in order for it not to slip down on the head.

Both lights put out the exact same lumens (130 Lumens is incredibly bright)!

The MSR Whisperlite will fit inside the pot, but not with everything else inside. I would recommend the MSR Base 2 Pot Set as an alternative. It uses a better teflon coating and the silicon enamel is incredibly durable. As well the Talon Pot Holder is much better at controlling the pot when it's full of boiling water than the Pinnacle's handle...

The 20 inch chair weighs in at 10.5 ounces and the 25 inch chair is 12.6 ounces.

These pots are not made to stack, but rather be a standalone option. Many backcountry users require only one pot, particularly to boil water with, and therefore do not need multiple stacking pots.

If you are interested in buying a stainless steel stackable cookset, I would go with the MSR Alpine Gourmet. It uses the same materials, but has multiple pots that do stack.

The Stowaway Pots are made for years of heavy use. Their stainless steel nature and solid construction give them top-of-class durability. They are premium in every sense of the word. The stainless steel material also gives limited non-stick qualities and good cooking performance, unlike titanium. They have remained on MSR's lineup of cookware for so long because they simply work well.

Short answer: yes:)...

More detailed answer: This pad is made up of durable (not-puncture proof but abrasive and tear resistant) nylon outer material bonded to open-cell foam. When it's rolled up and the valve closed, the foam is collapsed (similar to a scrunched up sponge). When unrolled and the valve is open, the air rushes in as the foam expands thus allowing it to self-inflate. The Thermarest Trail Pro Pad does this exceptionally well because of it's two inches of foam. You should see full inflation in about 10 minutes IF it is stored properly prior to use (unrolled with valve open). If the pad feels to soft after fully inflated, it is perfectly fine to blow in a couple of breaths. I usually fill it up a bit more firm than what is comfortable and then lay on it, releasing the air slightly until I hit the "sweet spot" or, in other words, the perfect amount of comfort. This is very hard to do in an air-only mattress...

Once you get the pad, take it out of the package, unroll, and let sit for 24 hours with the valve open. This will allow the foam to regain it's memory and work properly.

It actually closes by folding down the opening similar to a dry bag. The proper way is folding it three times which will give it extremely good water resistance (IPX7 or 1 meter of water for 30 minutes waterproofness). It also makes it easy to get the pad in and out. This is much easier than a zipper and much more water resistant than a draw string.

Manufacturing changes often from place to place, but because Coleman has been manufacturing for many years in China, I would believe their website. The worry is if it's a quality factory or one that doesn't uphold good manufacturing principles. I suspect because of Coleman's longtime relationship with many of the factories that it knows how to play the game and produce excellent goods coming from there.

I have a big problem with China made goods myself. It's becoming more and more a concern for me...

I would be very wary of using any fuel besides white gas. The Whisperlite International was made for this reason (which I'm sure you're aware of at this point). The problem is two fold: one, the generator tube (tube you see looping up in the burner head) is too small and will clog very easily with dirty fuels (like diesel, unleaded gas, etc.). The other reason is the jet (small brass unit inside the stove that allows it to vaporize the fuel via a very small hole) is made only for White Gas. Other fuels require different sized jet holes to work.

Varsol is a solvent and can put off extremely toxic smoke. It is a clean burning substance, similar to Naptha, but because it has aromatic substances, can be very dangerous to inhale.

Although Varsol won't ruin the stove, it could be deadly if inhaled. I would not burn Varsol in the Whisperlite.

You could get away with that depending on the width of the board. However, because of the lightweight materials, it isn't designed to take the abuse of the snowboard's edges. A better option may be the Granite Gear Flash due to it's much more durable materials. It uses the same suspension as the Vapor Meridian and they do have a women's version. I would check out http://www.granitegear.com/products/backpacks/ultralight/vaporflashki.html for more details and to find a dealer.

I don't think you could make a better choice in a thru-hike lightweight, but durable, pack. The Vapor version is identical to the Nimbus version except the suspension isn't as robust. Other than that it uses the same materials and construction. The Nimbus Meridian was used by Justin (aka. Trauma) who hiked, in one year, all three major thru-hikes (AT, PCT, CDT) and even did the extended version of the AT (from Quebec to Key West, FL)! This he did with only one pack and the only damage was a small hole in a side pocket put their by a hungry rodent. All in all, he hiked 10,000 miles in about 364 days (averaging 30 miles a day). I've checked this pack out, and although it is discusting because all of the sweat and salt stains, it's in almost perfect shape!

The Nimbus Meridian is the only pack ever made to make this claim. The Vapor Meridian is up for the challenge!

The company McNett makes Marizyme and can be found usually at most outdoor gear stores. If you don't have one in you area, online is a great place to find and order it. Here is the link to McNett that has a dealer look-up link (http://www.mcnett.com/MiraZyme-Enzyme-Based-Odor-Eliminator-P170.aspx). Hopefully this helps!

The problem with washing your tent in a washing machine (especially in a oscillating machine) is it could do some serious damage to the tent due to the soaps and violent cycles (a washing machine doesn't know when to quit:)). I know you mentioned your friend used a front loading machine, which is much better, but there could still be risks damaging the materials and construction. NEVER put it in the dryer!

There are many different ways of cleaning your tent. One way is hosing it down (or hand washing it outside), finding the dirt marks that won't wash off, and, using a nylon brush, lightly scrub them away. If you have traces of mildew or a particularly smelly tent, soaking it in a solution of Marizyme (a product that uses active enzymes to eat away mildew) is your best option.

The thing that fails the most on tents are the zippers and the Hubba Hubba is not immune to this. If you've been in a sandy or windy environment with lots of dust in the air, maintaining the zippers is critical. My recommendation here is to clean the zipper with a mild soap and nylon brush and then lube them with a silicon (can find tubes of this in hardware stores). Silicone won't attract as much dirt as wax and is much less toxic to the plastic teeth than other types of lube. Silicon will create far less friction for the slider as you zip it up and down.

Simply put, by hand washing using a soft nylon brush, soaking it down with mild detergent (dishwashing soap), Nikwax Tech Wash or similar soap, etc, and then maintaining the zippers as described above will help keep your tent clean and well maintained for many years to come. I know this is takes much more effort than using a washing machine, but you will have far more piece of mind and much less risk in damaging your investment.

It will. A better option however is the MSR Titan Kettle. The reason is because it has a lid. You can use the Titan Kettle as a cup, bowl, or to boil water. It's the perfect companion to the Pocket Rocket.

The other great thing about the Titan Kettle is that it not only will fit the Pocket Rocket inside, but a 4oz. canister if you put the Pocket Rocket in first. The lid fits on tightly and you've got a perfect set-up that's a whole half-pound lighter than JetBoil!

This depends on a number of things. The first thing to consider is the water your filtering from. Certain lake water and high sedimented water will cause the filter to slow down much faster than clear mountain river water. This will greatly reduce the amount of water that can be filtered. The other thing to consider is how often it is cleaned. Often this isn't done enough and can also reduce the filter's life. The key is as soon as you see water come out of the pressure spout, it needs to be cleaned.

Generally speaking, it will filter about 250 gallons. For most people this means it needs to be replaced about every two years. However if it's used every weekend for an entire summer, you may need to replace it 2-3 times a season, again depending on how its maintained and what kind of water is being filtered.

Fortunately there are other methods of lighting a stove without a lighter. I would recommend windproof and waterproof matches (REI branded have worked well for me). I also like the spark lighters like Light My Fire. With the Reactor, all you need is a spark.

The reason why MSR didn't include a auto ignition is for a couple of reasons. One, it simply ISN'T reliable. If the ignitor gets wet, it won't work. They easily break as well. A major worry of MSR's is that people will look to it as their sole way of lighting the stove inwhich it will inevitably fail.

The second reason why MSR won't put it on their stove is that they eventually wear out. Because it would be permanent component on the stove, the thought of it wearing out in a few years doesn't jive with their idea of quality. MSR is working hard on other auto ignition technologies and may have something in the future. However, it is a far better idea and much more reliable to depend on an outside source for ignition.

Cascade Designs makes an Urban Backpack Organizer that fits on the plastic framesheet inside the pack. You can see it here: http://cascadedesigns.com/sealline/urban/urban-backpack-organizer/product. It allows the user to keep small stuff that would rattle around the bag more organized like pens and pencils, small notebooks, media, and keys. It's super easy to access inside the bag and makes the Urban Backpack much more versatile.

This pack is awesome! It's incredibly durable (600D welded fabric), simple, easy to open and close, and comfortable. Highly recommended!

Yes, it still is! Even the closed-cell foam comes from the states.

This is not made to go in a camp fire! The threads on the lid are plastic and the base is rubber. Obviously both of these would melt and ruin the bottle. The finish will also melt away.

It's a unique bottle due to it's shape and other features (rubber bottom, square and round shape making it easy to grip, the 'Stanley' quality finish, etc.). Highly recommended...

Hopefully this will answer some of your questions:
A) This tent is almost identical to the Moss Little Dipper, one of the strongest and most weatherproof tents ever produced. The reason I mention that is because of the guy-out loops it used and which are also used on the StormKing. They allow you to use cordage, or for the absolute worst conditions, climbing rope up to 11mm. There are three separate guy-out loops on each side of the tent that can be used to anchor it down. There are also several more throughout the fly which are pretty obvious and have reflective piping making it easy to find in a white-out.

This tent is very taught and is very much snow worthy. For a five man tent, I don't think you'll find anything more snow load proof. It's huge hooped vestibule will swallow up the largest packs and winter gear and everything about this tent screams winter! As you can see, it only uses pole sleeves, not clips, for the best pitch possible. The floor is super durable and has a 10,000mm coating, one of the best in the industry.

B) This tent is fully capable of experiencing the worst weather right out of the bag! All the seams are taped and it has gone through rigorous testing before it's shipped off. The only thing I would suggest is setting it up a couple of times before going out. This will help you get familiar with it if the weather gets bad or if you run out of light. It really isn't that difficult to set up, but with seven separate poles, it is more challenging than a 3-season tents.

There are very few tents that compare to the StormKing!

It will if you have a 1" 1/4 or a 2" hitch. That's the beauty of a hitch-mounted bike carrier. It will fit most vehicles if it has a hitch installed. If you don't, a good place to get one is the local U-Haul. They will do it for around $250-$300.

I also like hitch-mounted bike carriers because they can be put on and taken off fairly easy. The anti-sway attachments Yakima uses are the best available. This is an awesome product and a good reason why it's the best selling hitch bike carrier on the market!

I put my hydration reservoir on top of the pack between the toplid and the main pack body. First I close off the main pack with the draw string and then position the reservoir on top while the top lid, cinched down, holds it all together. What this does is helps to keep the water flowing (the outlet is higher than in a dedicated hydration pocket therefore the water flows easier) and is easier to fill on the trail. I have never had a leaking Big Zip when closed properly. And with the new closer system, this is easier than ever. I think you'll like this set up.

I wouldn't recommend using it as a ground cloth due to it's non-coated and super light weight material. It will wear out super fast. The best use is for moderate rainfall protection and sun protection. Once up, it will cover two sleeping bags and not much more. It's real intent is to be used as an emergency shelter (thus the 'E' in E-Wing). It can be used as an ultralight wing in desert conditions, but any super heavy rainfall will cause it to leak.

I've used this wing several times with excellent results. If used in the right conditions, it will give you just enough shelter to not worry. I live in the Rocky Mountain region of the country and often hike in desert conditions.

The hard anodization used by MSR on the Reactor Pot creates a surface similar to that of stainless steel as far as scratch resistance in concerned. That's the benefit of quality hard anodized aluminum cookware is that you essentially get stainless steel durability (in terms of surface damage, not denting) without the weight penalties of stainless. You can use any kind of utensil you want.

You're in luck! MSR has an unlimited lifetime warranty on the poles! Simply go to www.msrgear.com and go to the bottom of the page where there's a link to 'Warranty & Repair'. Click on this and follow the instructions. They will probably have you send in the whole pole set and and then replace the one that's broken. You should expect a 2-4 week turn-around time.

No... at least it's not made to. It might fit in the larger pot of the Quick 2, but not in the smaller pot.

There are a number of things better and some that are not as good. First the better... One of the things about chemicals is the fresher they are, the more potent they are. Because the user is creating the chemical on the spot he/she will have a far more potent chemical than one contained in a pill because of the radical oxidants that linger after it's created. The pill also has a shelf life (about 5 years in it's package). This is never a concern with the MIOX Purifier. MIOX is also a liquid which is more easily dissipated or dissolved in the water than a pill. The chemical produced by the MIOX (MIOX stands for Mixed Oxidants which include carbon dioxide, hydrogen peroxide, hypochlorus acid, etc.) is more effective in ridding it of pathogens and pesticides than the pill which only contains carbon dioxide or iodine. The MIOX solution is also much safer. If, for instance, you where to digest the pill, it would make you pretty sick (think kids). It can also burn your skin if it's wet and exposed to the pill directly. MIOX can be consumed without much adverse effect and it can be exposed to skin without burning. MIOX can also be used to disinfect wounds, clean contaminated vegetables (often found in third world country street markets), adds an anti-microbial coating to the inside of the water container which it treats along with the water, and is as effective, and in certain conditions, more effective, in killing Giardia and Chryptosporidium (much more than idodine). The pill can only treat water. The above reasons make it more versatile than even a pump filter. It has approximately the same dwell time as a carbon dioxide pill as well (app. 30 minutes for Giardia, bacteria, virus', and 4 hours for crypto). MIOX can be used for large quantities of water where a pill is only made for solo use. The MIOX is the only chemical treatment available which can be tested to make sure there is enough chemical added to the water using the included chlorine strips. Over time, MIOX is far less expensive than any other type of water treatment available.

Disadvantages include size and weight (pills are much lighter and smaller than the MIOX Purifier). However, you can produce enough chemical to put into a small vial which will last about 9 days if you don't want to take the unit itself (the unit only weighs 3.5 ounces). Pills are less complicated to use in that you only need to drop one in a liter of water. The MIOX does take a little more effort, but it is fool-proof to operate. There is little to go wrong with a pill whereas the MIOX is an electronic piece of equipment. However, you must be sure the pill is not too old.

That should give you some things to consider. I personally use the MIOX and found it to be very reliable and easy to use. I have never gotten sick even though I've treated some pretty disgusting water! I have total faith that it works.

Included are 10 GroundHog II Stakes, a descent roll of guy out cord (not enough to completely guy it out, but enough to anchor the fly to the ground), a full-cover fly which includes a hooped vestibule, but no footprint.

The only thing you will need to buy (other than the tent itself) is a StormKing Footprint from the items on your list.

It depends upon your needs. There are many pads available, far more than ever! I would list what you want in a pad, or what's more important to you. In my opinion, the best all-around Thermarest pad is the Trail Pro. It's thick at 2 inches (for a self-inflatable, this is the thickest available for a true backpacking mattress), it's durable, it's light (2lbs for the men's regular), and it's a Thermarest! The thing that separates Thermarest from everyone else is quality. They've been making pads by hand for 35 years and have perfected the process. They are the original and will last a lifetime.

If you want an ultra-light pad, the NeoAir is the best available (although it isn't self-inflatable). If you want the most comfortable, the DreamTime is the best. There are many things to consider, but the Trail Pro is your best bet for all-around performance.

No. This is the best way to store the pad if you want optimum performance (meaning if you want it to inflate super fast), but storing it rolled up will not void the warranty. There are other things that will void it like leaving it in a hot car, putting hot items like pots of boiling water on it, using it to ward of a bear attack, using it to slide down a scree slope, etc., but leaving it rolled up is not one of these.

FYI, If you do have it rolled up for an extended period of time and want to 'revive' it, simply blow as much air into it as you can and leave it overnight. This will help the foam regain it's lost memory and allow it to inflate at it's fasted rate. Unlike popular myths, Thermarest mattresses won't lose their self-inflating capabilities by storing them rolled up. They are not like sleeping bags that if left stuffed in small stuff sacks will lose their loft. Thermarest self-inflatable mattresses can be revived...

It should work. You won't use the top large red O-ring, but instead the EX cartridge has a welded on rubber assembly that takes it's place. You still need the bottom red O-ring however. The repair kit should contain all the replacement parts for the old and new filters. For example, the old filter used a small blue ball instead of the duck bill valve in the new filter. Both are contained in the repair kit.

Yes they come as a set of 4 in a zippered nylon mesh bag. The other Granite Gear Booties (Endurance and G4) come in sets of 2.

One of the best features of this pack, but one that must be understood, is it's weight. Because it weighs in at right around 2 lbs it requires the user to understand it's limitations. It also is a top load only pack meaning you can only load it from the top. Other packs have the ability to load from the side or middle via a zippered opening. The durability of the pack is less than other more robust packs to keep the weight down. Having said that, for a ultra-light pack, the Vapor Trail is one of the most durable. It is truly a minimalistic pack that should be understood. If you get it, meaning if you have other ultra-light gear and understand the whole lightweight backpacking method then this pack is one of the best. However, if you are just wanting a pack to get started into backpacking, I would probably recommend other, more durable and traditional, packs that would better serve your needs.

The MSR Miniworks EX Filter will screw onto the opening of the Cloudliner Hydration Bag. This makes it one of the best ways to fill up your hydration reservoir.

Yes it does. I own this stove and have been impressed by it.. It is very hot and the built in cup/windscreen that surrounds the flame seems to work very well. It's also very well made. My two complaints are that it really uses up the fuel and it can be challenging to prime. Although one of it's major selling points (this stove bypasses the 'yellow' priming flame stage), it can be tricky to get it going. I would recommend practicing and understanding this stove before taking it out in the backcountry. An easier white gas stove to use, and lighter weight, is the MSR Simmerlite. The easiest priming stove on the planet is the MSR DragonFly. Both these stoves have proven their reliability over many years of hard use. The DragonFly is my current favorite liquid fuel stove.

Not necessarily, but I would use wise judgement when driving. You should easily be able to drive the speed limit on a freeway (75mph) without any problems. If there are crosswinds, I would be careful to make sure they boats are tied down very securely. If you feel good about how they are tied down, you shouldn't have any issues with driving speeds.

The HullRaiser will support the weight, but you need to make sure your factory rack will. I would recommend checking the weight limit on your Ford Explorer's factory rack to make sure it isn't exceeded by the weight of the two kayaks. If it doesn't you should be fine. Yakima warns against overloading your factory rack which should be your primary concern here.

All it requires is the recommended factory rack found in the Fit Guide (you can also check out www.yakima.com and click on the 'Fit My Car' link). The benefit of the LowRider and new RailGrab is they install fairly effortlessly on your car's factory tracks or rails, no clips required. The only thing to consider are the SKS lock cores that add a tremendous amount of security. Not included are a set of crossbars which completes the package. It's what I have on my Subaru and I couldn't be happier!

The problem with getting a shoe that has a Gore-Tex membrane is that they will hold water as well as they repel water. What you want in a water shoe is one that allows the water to escape thus giving it the ability to dry out faster. A shoe with a membrane will cause the water to be retained adding to the likely hood of developing blisters and the uncomfortableness of constantly wet feet. Gore-tex running shoes are intended to keep dew and light rain and snow from creeping in, not necessarily for walking in water. If the question is if they'll hold up to constant exposure to water, I think they would be fine. But once water gets inside, you will be wearing essentially plastic bags on your feet...

Currently Yakima doesn't have a Fit Clip that will work on your car. You do have a few options though. One, custom rack system. This needs to be done by a custom rack shop (i.e. Rack Attack) which will allow you to use a full Yakima rack and all the accessories. It's quick and painless and usually ups the resale value of your car (warning: do not do this on your own! It needs to be done by a certified custom rack installer). The other option is Yakima's new Rack & Roll Trailer (you will need a hitch installed). This trailer is awesome and allows you to put anything you would on your roof on the trailer. It's essentially a roof rack made into a trailer. The benefits are more aerodynamic, easier to get on and off than on the roof, and you can fit more on the trailer. You should check it out on Yakima.com. If you don't want a custom rack or a trailer, you can check back regularly on yakima.com and hit the link 'Fit My Car' for any updates.

First off, this jacket is incredibly well made with amazing detail! Having inspected mine, I do notice a slight stiffened collar, but it's not so stiff as to make it uncomfortable or unwieldy. In fact, the first time I realized that it was a slight bit stiffer is upon inspecting it after reading your question... The Vapor's material has a much softer hand (far less stiff) than the Mirage and thus won't be as stiff in the collar. This is an incredible shell and currently my favorite! The look of the haring bone material and the fit are the best I've ever owned! The fact that it is a 3-ply eVent jacket is awesome! There are so many details both inside and out and set it apart from other high-end shells and makes it one of the best of it's kind money can buy!

It's glass. I own this lantern and really like it, but would benefit from having a mesh shield. Having said that the glass shield has not shown any signs of wear or breakage through some pretty rough backpacking trips. In lighting the mantle, I have burned marks into the glass shield which is kind of annoying (can't clean them off). I would recommend lighting the mantle without placing the glass shield over it until the mantle's ready to be used. This will keep the burn marks from appearing...

The reason for the Prolite XS is for uber-weight conscious backpackers (those wanting to keep their pack weight from 5-10lbs). The XS weighs in at 8oz, is 36 inches long, and 20 inches wide. Cascade Designs brought this to market in response to the cottage industry's fanaticism to the ultra-light category. The small is 11oz, 47 inches long and 20 inches wide. I would recommend getting the XS only if you need the most minimalistic amount of comfort.

Absolutely! Obviously you might have to let out some air to get it into the chair, and, based on it's increased thickness over a traditional Thermarest pad, it will be more difficult to put all together, but it will work! I would recommend the Compack Chair by Thermarest if you like the NeoAir. It is the half the weight of the Trekker Chair (6oz vs. 10 oz), but a little less durable. They both work the same however.

I wouldn't recommend storing them for more than 3 years. More than this and you risk leaking canisters, deteriorating valves, and a loss of pressure in the canister.

Actually this pad does not come with a stuff sack. Cascade Designs sells their stuff sacks separately because they are good enough to be considered by themselves as a high-end piece of gear. Thermarest stuff sacks are very well made and have a lifetime warranty and many awesome features including a daisy chain, high quality materials and construction, and the right fit for the specific pad. Although they are an added expense, you should feel a little at ease that you know your pad will be protected with a stuff sack that should last as long as the pad does...

Depends on what your using it for. If it's being used as a downhill ski jacket where you anticipate glancing by trees or getting snagged on branches, then it will tear. If you plan on rock climbing with it and expect to abrade it on rock, it will show signs of wear. However, if you are using it as a lightweight backpacking jacket and are not hard on your gear this jacket should last many years.

I'm one who believes breathability (i.e. comfort) is key and this jacket just wouldn't cut it for me. I've owned a few eVent jackets that are far superior in breathability to anything else...much better than HyVent DT and even including Gore Tex, EVent can be expensive, but worth it in my opinion...

As you mentioned, the noise is greatly reduced by the sleeping bag. I consider myself a fairly light sleeper, especially while camping and I have never noticed the noise in the three or so weeks worth of use. I love this pad more for it's comfort than anything else. I have never slept better and the noise generated doesn't seem to overwhelm the comfort this pad affords. I would highly recommend it!

It all depends on your metabolism. If you're a warm sleeper, this could work as a winter pad, however, I would caution you against it. I personally have slept on a Prolite 3 in winter without issue, although I was a little chilly (acceptable to me due to the size and weight of the pad). The NeoAir will be similar. A better option would be a NeoAir and a Z-Lite in combination. Both would weigh less than a standard pad, and having two insulative barriers will increase the R-Value. As well, the Z-Lite can't puncture so even if the NeoAir does, you will still be left with some insulation. Having the two will give you about a 5 R-Value. This would work for me in most conditions.

It would fit the Men's Prolite Reg and maybe even the Men's Prolite Plus Reg as well. It's really meant for ultralite down sleeping bags, jackets, and other clothing. I use it for my Marmot Hydrogen Sleeping bag and the larger size for a 10degree Moonstone down bag. They work very well and one of the best luxuries I carry, especially due to the fact that I need a stuff sack anyway.

The way you can tell whether you have the old pot vs. the new one is how the shroud is welded on. If you notice 6-8 tac welds, then it is the old pot. However, if you see a continuous, very small weld around the circumference of the pot, then it is the new one. Another way to determine old vs. new is the heatsink which will be welded on on the new pot and forged on the old. You're pretty safe in getting a new stove/pot since the last old stove to go out was last year (2008)...

Yep. Not only Jetboil, but MSR, Primus, Snowpeak, Coleman, and Brunton cansiters will work.

Based on Cascade Designs excellent durability, you will not see air leaking out of this pad over the life of the pad! One of the things Cascade Designs does with every single pad before it leaves the factory is fill it up with air near it's bursting threshold using an air compressor and leaves it for 48 hours on a padded shelf. Over the course of these two days, it is monitored by several people using calipers to make sure it's thickness remains the same. If it passes this last QC test, it is then packed and made ready to ship. No other company takes this drastic step to make sure each pad holds air before leaving the factory. You won't have any problems with air leaking out, unless you're careless with it. Make sure that nothing pointy and/or sharp is underneath it before laying it down. lf you do this, it will last for decades.

You will probably need to contact Cascade Designs directly. The jet was improved in the early 90s with a shaker jet which changed the threading of the jet. You can call (206) 505-9500, or write them at Cascade Designs, Inc.; 4000 1st Avenue South; Seattle, WA 98134. They will most likely send you a new jet. None of the current Service Kits have the right jet you'll need.

The simple answer is 'YES'! The reason is that most modern canisters use Lindal valves which have the same threading. Therefore most current stoves will work with most canisters. The reasons manufacturers recommend using their branded fuel is simply marketing. You are completely safe to use any canister with a Lindal valve...these would include, MSR, Snowpeak, Jetboil, Brunton, Coleman (butane/propane, not the big green propane cansiters), Primus, and Markhill.

See my comparison on the MSR Reactor page...

This is a pretty general question, but I will do my best:-). There are several differences between both these stoves, most noticeably the stove itself. The Jetboil's stove is nothing more than a traditional small canister stove. It is very similar to the Alpine Lite Stove made by Primus. The mere fact that it uses a heat sink on the pot and has incorporated this stove into a system makes it different than other canister stoves. However, it is not 100% wind resistant (needs both primary and secondary air), and it doesn't have anything to regulate the pressure being generated by the canster (meaning it's performance is completely dependent on the weather and amount of fuel in the cansiter). The Jetboil isn't very light either when compared to other sit-on-top canister stoves (weighs in at about 15 oz.). I would recommend the Jetboil for those who want a fairly small, compact stove/pot system who primarily boil water. It does so fairly efficiently and quickly when compared to other stand-alone canister stoves.

The Reactor is entirely different. The only similarity between the Jetboil is that it uses a heat sink on the pot and is also a stove/pot system (meaning no other pot will work on the Reactor other than the included pot). The Reactor's stove is truly innovative in that it uses a pressure regulator (meaning it only needs about 12 psi to obtain optimum heat output compared to 65 psi for every other canister stove including Jetboil). It also needs just primary air (primary air, located below the stove's burner head, is where 60% of the stoves combustion is generated...secondary air, located between the stove's burner head and the bottom of the pot, is where 40% of the stove's combustion occurs...block either of these off and the flame will go out). The Reactor's need for only primary air makes it 100% windproof by allowing the pot to rest directly on the burner head thus protecting the heat output. The Reactor is the only stove that will give you consistent 3 to 3:30 minute boil times per liter in any condition above about 10 degrees. The pot is one of the most innovative pots for heat distribution and efficiency based on its laser-welded heatsink and 'shroud' (the shroud captures any heated air and traps it for a moment to help improve efficiency...the holes around the circumference of the pot allows this hot air to escape-it's also laser-welded on). Just to be clear, the pot has been updated and is now lighter (about 10oz.). The stove weighs in at about 6.5oz. making the complete unit (without fuel) weigh in at about 16.5 oz.

If your interested in sheer performance and efficiency, the Reactor is the stove. If you want a smaller stove system and are willing to give up some performance and efficiency, and plan to only use it for solo use, the Jetboil might be the better option. Remember, the Reactor can boil a liter at a time whereas the Jetboil can only boil 2 cups. Hope this helps....

No... The reason is the brighter 3W LED will completely drown out the 4 smaller LEDs. All that would happen is the batteries would drain faster. The center light is insanely bright! The 4 smaller LEDs are also very bright, much brighter than some headlamps with both the spot and flood LEDs, but the center light simply blows everything else away. I love pulling it out of my pack when everyone else has their Tikka Plus. Ok, I might be compensating for something...

The pot has changed. It's now about 3 oz. lighter from last year. Instead of tac welding, it is laser welded making the heatsink lighter. Whenever you lighten something up, but improving performance, gear will always be more expensive.

My guess is yes. The Corona has 12 modes from super bright (with all 8 LEDs lit at once on high), to low (one LED lit on low). The two buttons each do their own thing. The larger button switches between modes and the smaller button switches the light from high to low. It is the best proximity (flood) light you can buy. I think it would be excellent for reading or not disturbing you tent mates to blowing them away with the amount of light output it has.

Yes it can! The Large size that is. Even though the edges are rounded, the Trekker Chair 25 will work.

There are a few other differences worth pointing out. The material on the HP is much lighter but doesn't give up any strength over the standard Mutha Hubba. It is the nicest material MSR uses on any of their tents (20D, 330T nylon on the fly and canopy for the HP vs. 40D, 238T on the fly on the standard). The fly on the HP also has better ventilation due to a couple of vents sewn into it. The fly also as laminated patches to reinforce the guyout points. As was mentioned, the canopy (body) of the tent is mostly nylon on the HP version allowing it to be warmer in colder temperatures. It does this by trapping more heat. Therefore the HP would be a better extended 3-season tent making it more versatile. A couple of small details include a tension system at each corner using cordage and delrin ladder locks making it possible to get a tighter pitch. The tighter the pitch, the more weather resistant the tent. Viewing and comparing them side to side would show a higher quality tent in the HP over the standard Mutha Hubba. The HP version is also 5 oz. lighter when comparing the minimum weight (poles, canopy, and fly).

There a few things that differentiate the two. For one, the Terrafix I/O can float whereas the Microfix can't. However, the Microfix is much smaller and lighter which also makes it more expensive (reducing the size and weight while improving the performance usually makes something more pricey). The Microfix has SiRF GPS technology whereas the Terrifix I/O doesn't, thus the GPS will be quicker at acquiring satellites and will be able to get through wooded areas and low visibility terrain better. It's also much easier to operate the Microfix in an emergency due to only having to push one button for a second. The Terrafix requires the user to push X2 buttons at the same time for one second.

Any bottle or bag with a 64mm opening will work. Nalgene was the first to standardize this, calling it their 'wide-mouth' bottle. You will find the 64mm 'wide-mouth' on many bottles from stainless steel, to aluminum, to various polyurethane and lexan-type bottles. The best thing about the Hydromedary, Dromlite, and Dromedary bags is that they will hold much more water at a significantly reduced packed weight and volume. By getting the Spigot Lid accessory, you can turn your hydration system or folding bottle into a camp sink. It is extremely versatile to have around camp. Highly recommended!

You will easily get the Primus MultiFuel EX Stove into the larger pot and you might be able to sqeeze it into the smaller 1.5L pot. One thing to note is that the larger pot is not teflon coated so you will see far less damage if the stove scratches it's surface (the hard anodization is extremely durable and won't scratch off). Even the though new MSR pots use the most durable teflon coating available in their Base Pot Set (both the 1.5L and 2.5L pots) and 1.5L Quick 2 Pot, scratching may still result. I would caution you in placing any stove into the smaller pot without some type of protective barrier (i.e. packtowel, etc.).

The MSR Flex Skillet will not nest with these pots. The diameters are different. The Flex Skillet was made to nest with the MSR Flex 3 and Flex 4 Systems.

I would not recommend using this in conjunction with a JetBoil Cup! This stove gets very hot and you will melt the brazing on the heatsink and most definitely melt the neoprene. The JetBoil cup was designed for a specific purpose and I would only use it with the JetBoil Stove. Getting a new pot can be fairly inexpensive and doesn't require anything high end. Obviously if you want to keep your weight down, you will need to buy aluminum (hard anodized is recommended) and/or titanium (the MSR Exo2 pot is optimum for use with the XGK EX). The other issue is storing the stove. Getting a 1.5L pot or greater will allow you to store the stove in the pot thus having everything together when your ready to cook.

The XGK EX represents the best there is in terms of extreme cold weather stove use. It's highly recommended and very reliable. In these kinds of conditions, reliability is the most important factor.

I would only recommend it for a Platypus hydration system. It was designed and manufactured primarily to work only on Platypus hoses. If it is bought to be retrofitted to any other hose, you will be taking a chance of it not working.

You shouldn't have any problem using it after you use MicroPur. I would caution using it while the MicroPur is doing it's thing because citric acid has a tendency to make oxidizing chemicals inert. The worry-free method would be to drop in the MicroPur tablet wait the prescribed time and then drop in the Nuun tablet which will only take a few minutes to dissolve. That way you can be assured of safe drinking water. The Nuun will help to clear up any chlorine taste making it much more palatable.

I think what you will find with the Hubba Hubba is that it has more livable space inside. This has been achieved by designing into it vertical walls. It's incredibly easy to set up and the two large 7 sq.ft vestibules make life so much easier when backpacking. Material wise, the Hubba Hubba has a 10,000mm polyurethane coated floor which is unheard of when talking about lightweight 3 season backpacking tents. The warranty is excellent with an unconditional lifetime warranty on the poles (if anything happens to the poles at any time, MSR will replace them). The body and fly have a limited lifetime warranty (limited to manufacturing defects). The footprint is about 6 oz. and is useful in keeping the tent looking new, but can also be used to set up the fly and poles to create an ultra-light shelter if bugs aren't a concern.

Thermarest does make an ultra-lite dry sack for various items including pads. It's called the Simply Dry Stuff Sack found here (http://www.backcountry.com/store/CAS0512/Therm-a-Rest-Simply-Dry-Stuff-Sack.html). It can be used as a standard dry sack, but it also works as a waterproof sack for you pad. Roll-top closed bags are not submersible, but they are waterproof.

Yes! Unfortunately backcountry.com doesn't have them in stock.

I would get the Lg size. Although it's larger than the normal Thermarest Camp & Comfort Stuff Sack size Lg, the Medium is too small. I think it's always better to opt for the larger size making it easier to get it in and out of the bag. Remember this is also a roll-top closing bag so the larger size will make that easier as well.

Yes! You may have to take it out of the red plastic case, but it should fit just fine.

Yes, you can use this snap kit for that purpose. They were initially intended to be used with the Thermarest Tech Blanket and Down Ventra Comforter to save weight over the Thermarest Fitted Sheet. My recommendation would be to try out the fitted sheet option (http://www.backcountry.com/store/CAS0298/Therm-a-Rest-Fitted-Sheet.html). This allows you to lie on the mattress very comfortably and still snap the two pads together. I would do this rather than sticking on something adhesive to my pad. If you are trying to save pack weight, this is an excellent option. Otherwise I would go with the fitted sheet.

If you do go with the fitted sheet, make sure you get the right size...

Cascade Designs does make the Platypus Insulator in 3 sizes: 1.8L, 2.0L., and 3.0L. Currently backcountry.com only has the 1.8L and 2.0L in stock (click on the drop down bar titled 'select options' under the price). Hopefully that helps.

There is much more going on here than just "household bleach". MSR SweetWater Purifier Solution is specially designed in a lab to work with filters to kill free-floating viruses. Viruses are very easily handled with chemicals, but you don't want to put too much chemical into your water if it's not needed. This solution puts just the right amount without giving off a taste or smell. It essentially purifies the water and nothing more AFTER it's been filtered (viruses cannot be filtered out using a microfilter). Because of the much higher content of sodium hypochlorite in bleach, carcinogens have a possiblity of being created (specifically trihalomethane) when mixed with the organic material in backcountry water. Because of the greatly reduced sodium hypochlorite content in the MSR Sweetwater Purifier Solution, this risk is drastically reduced. Bleach also contains Lye which can burn the skin and destroy tissue. There is no lye in the Sweetwater Purifier Solution. Common household bleach was never intended to be consumed by humans whereas the MSR SweetWater Purifier Solution is. This is a huge difference between the two. The MSR SweetWater Purifier Solution is not common household bleach by any stretch of the imagination...

To be clear, this won't work on any other cooksets other than those made by MSR. It is not a universal pot holder. It is meant to be sold to those who own the Exo™, Quick™, Base™ and/or Flex™ cookware as a replacement or if an additional pot holder is needed.

They put out about 35 Lumens. However, because it's not voltage regulated, its brightness will diminish fairly rapidly (you will start to see less light about 15-20 minutes of use). Check out the Princeton Tec Quad for a brighter headlamp (45 Lumens), one that's voltage regulated (meaning it will maintain the high output longer), has a battery indicator, includes a lifetime warranty, and is 100% waterproof. It's also made in the USA and costs about the same.

There are some significant differences between the two pads. The Prolite was designed purely for weight and size conscious users. It is 1/2 lb lighter than the Prolite Plus. The shape is different (rounded corners, super lightweight materials top and bottom, star cutouts, etc.). As was already mentioned it is only 1" thick so there is a compromise on comfort (although with a self-inflatable mattress you do have the ability to make it as firm as you want thus allowing a 1" pad to be quite comfortable).

The Prolite Plus is for the user who wants lightweight and compactness, but doesn't consider these it's most important features. The Prolite Plus is meant for all-year use based on the holes being cut out at a 45 degree angle which gives it more insulation (more R-Value) but still maintaining the weight and roll up size of the Prolite 4 (brand new feature for 2009). It's the best lightweight option for 4 season use. Because it's 1 1/2" thick, it's also more comfortable. Again, it is 1/2 lb heavier than the Prolite.

The women's versions of both pads have a chevron pattern in the torso and feet cutouts. This gives them both more insulation and a bit more comfort (this was due to the belief that women are typically colder sleepers than men). They are the same size and weight as both men's versions when rolled up which is achieved by shortening the women's pads about 6 inches. I think the regular size is a perfect fit for you in my opinion. You will appreciate carrying less pad and it is the exact length that you want. Having it be a little wider is desirable, but not necessary. However, only you are an expert in how you sleep so I would get what will make you the most comfortable. Even the Lg sizes roll up small and don't weigh that much. Personally I go with the lightest weight I can get away with. This seems to make a huge difference over the course of a week of backpacking. Just some thoughts...

It would work well as a bear bag for a few reasons. For one, it is relatively tough. A motivated bear would probably have no problem ripping it open, but part of hanging food in a tree is the abuse it goes through as it travels to its final resting point. This bag is durable enough to withstand any bashing on it's journey. The other good thing is that it's waterproof which means it holds in smells much better than a traditional bag. Due to its roll-top closure, bears and other animals who have a high degree of olfactory senses (ie. they can smell really well), will have a harder time detecting food in this bag. The roll-top closure also gives it a great spot for tying the rope to hang it. I personally think this is a great food bag to keep your valuable food from bears or any other starving wildlife.

Yes! The darker color of the package helps to block out UV rays and the shape makes it easier to dispel the air. The material is the same as the regular Platypus (giving it it's unique ability to preserve wine) and it really works! Just let all the air out by opening up the lid and folding over the top portion of the bottle, then replace the lid. It is the cheapest alternative to preserving an open bottle of wine currently on the market. At the Outdoor Retailer Show, Platypus had a taste test using a freshly opened bottle and one that had been 'preserved' in the Platypus Preserve for a month. Everyone who tried both couldn't tell the difference! It absolutely worked.

I've slept on this pad on several backpacking trips and have come away very pleased. It is the most comfortable backpacking mattress I've ever slept on. It is true that the R-Value isn't quite that of the Prolite Plus, but it uses radiative heat technology which the R-Value doesn't address. I could feel myself getting warmer as soon as I laid on it. The size and weight will blow your mind, but it's comfort will be the reason why it will become your favorite piece of camping gear!

This is a super simple bivy sac. It's really made for emergencies (thus the 'E' in E-Bivy stands for emergency). The outer material is super water resistant and breathable. The seams are not sealed so you might experience some leakage there if you're in a substantial rainstorm or downpour. There is a small zipper on the side for ease of entry and a flap of material that allows for more ventilation. It's a great bivy for the price and packs incredibly small.

It weighs in at about 6 oz. I've used this a few times and really like the versatility. By using the Gravity Kit, I could filter, without pumping, at about a liter and a half per minute. It made the camping chores much nicer... The benefit of going with the HyperFlow and the Gravity Kit is simply having many options. The fact that the HyperFlow will filter at 3L per minute when pumping and then having the Gravity Kit for basecamp purposes makes it very desirable. What I would recommend is carrying the pump and letting a fellow backpacker carry the gravity kit. It's also great knowing that I own a pump filter that will also gravity feed faster than most pumps!

They are made from Polyurethane, a plastic that's BPA free, dishwasher safe, recyclable, and can be used to hold very hot (220F or less) food. The materials used in the pots as well as the coatings are the best available. For two people there isn't a better cookset available for the money.

No. The foam is not removable. Granite Gear makes a pack called the Virga which allows for this. It is an uber-light pack that doesn't include any suspension which allows the user to use whatever they want, like a Ridge Rest or Z-Rest, as the frame. The best thing about the Vapor Trail is that, at only 2lbs., it includes a complete suspensioned frame including duo-densities in the waste belt, shoulder straps, and backpanel. Compared to other ultra-light packs, the suspension on the Vapor Trail is very substantial.

The Yukon Extreme Bike Light comes with two mounting brackets, one for the handlebar and one for the helmet. The one pictured is for the helmet. It uses two velcro straps to secure it through the vents of the helmet and the handlebar mount has a variety of rubber strips allowing for it to be secured to different bar sizes. The cable that runs from the battery pack to the light is 54cm long allowing it to be placed on the frame of the bike or to be placed in a hydration pack. It isn't quite long enough to put into a jersey pocket.

Currently MSR is not manufacturing the Sweetwater Walkabout Filter or Element. The only option is finding it on Ebay or similar website. Cascade Designs, the parent company of MSR, should have a .pdf of the instructions. Good luck finding a filter cartridge! Although the Walkabout is a descent filter (subpar to many of the current filters available however), the best option would be to purchase another filter due to the fact that finding another cartridge will rear its ugly head again. The complete MSR Sweetwater Filter will cost more than a replacement cartridge for the Walkabout (if you can find one), but it's filter element is readily available.

The question is whether you want a full sized body-type towel to dry off after a swim or one used to wash up at night before heading to bed. I would recommend the MSR Ultralight XL towel for full body coverage after swimming and the MSR Nano for washing up at night (face and hands). The Ultralite absorbs an incredible amount of moisture, dries super fast, and packs down amazingly small (about the size of a grapefruit). The MSR Nano is great in that it's soft and easy on the skin, absorbs an insane amount of liquid, dries fast, and is the smallest towel MSR makes (about the size of an package of gum). Both towels will serve you well. These are my recommendations. MSR Nano (https://www.backcountry.com/store/CAS0568/MSR-Packtowl-Nano-Lite.html); MSR Ultralite (http://www.backcountry.com/store/CAS0282/MSR-Packtowl-UltraLite.html)

Actually that's not true. The Granite Gear system allows for many different hipbelt combinations and is easily removed by pulling apart the velcro overlap and unscrewing the stainless-steel screw. Lastly undoing the load stabilizing straps releases the belt and allows you to use any of the Nimbus hipbelts Granite Gear makes. What I would do is, after purchasing the pack, sending in the unused hipbelt to Granite Gear and requesting the Nimbus exoskeleton hipbelt. It might cost you a tad bit more, but you will get a more substantial belt that will hold more weight comfortably. The trade-off is a slightly heavier empty pack weight. Customization is a huge advantage that Granite Gear has over the competition! Go to: www.granitegear.com to contact them.

I hope I can help you...1) It does not have a floor.2) It does have one aluminum-sectioned pole and then zips to the Board Room. It then needs to be staked out and secured using the straps of webbing to make it taught.3) The Bunkroom 4 has a floor. Other than that they are the same (dimensions, one pole, mesh, etc.).4) Only the fact that the Bunkroom 4 has a floor and the Screen Room does not.

I would hold off for a month or so. The new Thermarest NeoAir Small is coming in April and will be the lightest weight 3/4 length pad on the market. The truly amazing thing is it will also be one of the most comfortable AND insulative. It weighs in at 9oz. and packs down so small you can stuff it INSIDE a Nalgene bottle. It has won a Backpacker's Editor's Choice Award, the Outdoor Industry Gold Award, Popular Science 'Best of What's New' Award, and Germany's Outdoor Magazine Editor's Choice Award. Crazy!

Yes, you can pull it off. There's actually another accessory, called the 'elbow' attachment that has a shut-off valve that allows the bite valve to be more ergonomic and be shut-off while packing it in the car, etc. The bite valve is meant to come off to allow for these add-ons.

Yes.

Currently Cascade Designs (parent company of Thermarest branded sleeping pads) does not make a 20"X78" pad. All of their large pads are sized 25"X78". All Thermarest Regular size pads are 20"X 72". These two sizes are standard amongst all models. I'm not familiar with any other manufacturer who makes the size you've listed.

The large will work too.-----------Make sure you buy the Trekker Chair 25 (the width of the large pad). If you already own the Trekker Chair 20, the large won't work.

No, this filter will not remove salt or any chemical that won't bond to carbon. Desalinators are super slow, really heavy and expensive. Unfortunately they aren't typically sold at outdoor gear sites and must be sought after at specialty marine stores or sites. The thing most filters do, including the Miniworks EX, is take out mechanical mixtures, not chemical ones. So, for instance, bacteria, which hasn't chemically bonded with the water is taken out of the water via a very fine strain (0.2 micron strain to be exact). Any thing chemical such as contaminants like pesticides, etc are bonded to the carbon core of the filter. Salt and chlorine derivatives aren't absorbed by carbon and therefore are left in the water.----------------------Most of what Jason says is true here, but salt isn't a chemical bond. The reason salt doesn't come out is that the amount of pressure to force water through a filter small enough to remove salt is absurd. No way you could ever do it by hand.___________________________Right! It is not technically a 'chemical bond' because no new compounds are created. It's simply a dissociation where the water molecules surround the NaCl (salt) molecules, thus dissolving them. The only methods of desalination are 1) electrodialysis, or the use of porous membranes to filter out negatively and positively charged salt ions (ie super FINE membranes); 2) freezing, based on the principle that water excludes salt when it crystallizes to ice; and 3) reverse osmosis, in which pressure, generated by the presence of salt in the water, forces water through a membrane permeable only by pure water. There is no easy solution unfortunately...

It comes with 24Mb of memory, a USB download cable, instructions, and a very basic map (no topo map info). In order to get topo maps, you need to buy the Garmin Topo map software. It doesn't come with batteries either. It will work out of the box, but you won't see a map.

This is not an avalanche beacon, but a personal locator beacon used in times of emergency. Unlike an avy beacon, the user must push a button to transmit the signal after extending the antenna (avy beacons, once on, are always transmitting and receiving but only work in about a 40-60 meter radius). The antenna must also not be covered by water or snow in order to transmit. If you are in avalanche country I would first get a partner, understand the dangers involved by educating yourself on slopes angles, types of snow, what to do in an avalanche, etc., and then purchase an avalanche beacon (understand they only work two at a time; one will do you no good). The PLB is used if there are life-threatening injuries after everyone has been recovered. This could include trauma sustained from debris, hypothermia, fractures, shock, etc. A PLB can also be used in all 4 seasons and if you venture out solo, it will work on it's own. Education is key when in dangerous backcountry conditions. Please learn about all the vital info needed before going out!

The question is which stove? The Whisperlite, DragonFly and XGK all need a 1.5 liter pot or greater. The Simmerlite, WindPro, and Superfly need only a 1L pot. The Pocket Rocket can be packed in the MSR Titan Kettle with a 4oz. Fuel bottle. The smallest pot of this set is a 1.5L pot so, yes, any of the MSR stoves can be packed inside it.

That's what it's made for.-------------Actually this is the WRONG sack to buy for the Prolite 4 or the new Prolite Plus which will take the place of the Prolite 4 this year. The Prolite Stuff Sack (used to be the Prolite 3) is sized very small and will not work with the Prolite 4 pad. The stuff sack made for the Prolite 4 can be found here: http://www.backcountry.com/store/CAS0239/Therm-a-Rest-ProLite-4-Stuff-Sack.html.

No they don't. You will need to get the Boat Locker to secure boats to the rack. Currently there isn't a way to use SKS locks to lock the Hully Rollers to the cross bars. Again, the Boat Locker can be used to secure them to the rack system.

Jane,Therm-a-rest says this one is lighter than previous ProLite 3 models. Plus, I'm not sure if the ProLite 3 will be restocked, ask a BC rep in live chat if you want to make sure. Therm-a-Rest link below:www.thermarest.com/product_detail.aspx?pID=42&cID=1-----------The Prolite 3 is being replaced by the Prolite which is lighter and more compact. BC.com won't be getting anymore Prolite 3s in stock. I would recommend the women's model (if it's for you) because it will be slightly more insulated and firm based on the chevron cutouts in the torso and feet.

Liquid fuel is much better in the cold because it NEVER freezes. White gas freezes at minus 120-something, I believe. Plus you regulate your own pressure with a liquid fuel stove. Canisters do terribly in cold temperatures, but they are lighter and don't take as long to prime. All in all though, the extra time and weight is better than not having hot food, so go with a liquid fuel stove.-------------The biggest benefit for liquid fuel in cold temperature is that you control the pressure in the fuel bottle. That's it's real advantage. Canisters are dependent on the pressure inside. The great thing about the Reactor is it will work at 0degrees and above. For a canister stove to work at this low of temp is amazing! I've used it several times this winter to melt snow and have been very pleased. It is the best performing canister stove on the market.If you think that you will be in temps below zero you will be better served with a liquid fuel stove.

Yes it's easy, you blow in it. Like every other inflatable object you've encountered.-----------You lay it out open the valve and it self-inflates almost all the way, you then top it off by blowing in it and close the valve.-----------Remember when you first buy the pad you need to open the valve and leave it open for at least 24 hours. It's not going to inflate immediately. After doing this, it should inflate in about 10 minutes. It needs to be stored, if possible, unrolled and with the valve opened for the best inflation performance. They won't ever lose their ability to inflate, even when rolled up, it will just take a lot longer. It's ok to blow a few breaths in after it's inflated depending on how firm you want it.

1) Primaloft Sport2) This is the best way I can think of to help you out. The large is 16 1/2" Neck and a 44" Chest. The X-Large has 17" Neck and a 47" Chest. The sleeves are longer, but I don't know the exact dimensions. If you have really long arms, the XL might be better, but I would probably go with the Large.

These shoes are best utilized by folks who are 170 or less. You can buy EVO 6" tails which bumps the weight up to around 240lbs. This largely depends on the snow conditions you find yourself in. If the snow is really deep and light, you will sink if your 80lbs. If you snowshoe in snow that's firm, but in snow you might sink without them, these shoes shine. I love these shoes because they are so maneuverable, meaning they are easy to get around in. I give up a bit of float for ease of use. You will find these give you incredible traction and durability as well as make the outing much more fun.

Depending on the size of pad, the best stuff sack is the Thermarest branded stuff sack made for the ToughSkin pad. The main reason is the size of the stuff sack, which is just right to easily get the pad in and out of the sack, but not so big that it's sloppy. Thermarest's stuff sacks are very well made and have lifetime warranties along with the pads. They where meant for each other:).

No it does not. To be fair, the reason they don't is that the stuff sack is also very high quality and therefore deserve to be their own product. I have found that those who include stuff sacks do it as an after thought. They typically wear out in a few trips. The Prolite's stuff sack is made from Cordura Sil-Nylon and well sown. It carries the same lifetime warranty as the pad. It's money well invested. In fact, if you find yourself packing this pad on the outside of your pack, it is critical that you put it in a stuff sack. Most pads are punctured on packs as they walk through trees, dragged against rocks, thrown down when the person is resting, etc. than they are being slept on.

No...the batteries used in the Apex Pro are not rechargeable, but are the same batteries used in most 35mm cameras (CR123). The benefit of using these over AA or AAA batteries is that they are 3 volts vs. 1.5 volts which means you need less batteries (thus smaller battery pack, less weight) to get the same light output. The only thing you give up is burn time. The Apex (not the Apex Pro) uses 4 AA batteries which allow for better rechargeable options and last much longer in terms of burn time. Battery costs are about the same for quality batteries.

The Vapor Trail is a top-load, ultra-light pack made for the minimalist. It has a maximum carrying capability of around 30lbs. The reason is that it uses a plastic frame sheet vs. the TopoFlex frame of the Nimbus Meridian. The Meridian was designed from much feedback from Justin (trail name Trauma), the only person in recorded history to have ever walked 10,000 miles in one year. His feedback was critical in the design and therefore this pack has everything it needs to have, but not more than is necessary. For instance, it is a hybrid loading pack which means that it can be loaded from the main pack body, not just from the top. Top-loading packs are difficult to organize. Another feature is the top lid can convert to a fanny pack. It also has a ton of compression which is critical in getting a pack to conform to ones back. The TopoFlex frame sheet, a composite material that flexes and never breaks, is arguably one of the best pack suspensions on the market. It breaks away from the traditional aluminum stay and plastic frame sheet. It combines them both into one component, a suspension that is capable of bearing the load, comforms to the back more percisely, but yet still bends and twists with the body's movements. The Meridian is more of a traditional pack than is the Vapor Trail, but still weighs in at about 3lbs. 10oz. It's a great compromise for someone who wants to shed lbs, but doesn't want to sacrifice comfort or convenience. This pack can easily handle up to 50lbs!The Vapor Trail is very minimalistic in nature, although for it's size and weight, is very comfortable as well.

Yep - There's actually a picture of it (see the smaller images just below the main image).

The great thing about snowshoes, unlike other winter sport gear, is that they are intended as much for the beginner as the expert. What I love about this shoe is that it is very stable (3 strap) which will come in handy and be much more durable. That's what you get with a high-end snowshoe. The benefit of the women's MSR Lightning Ascent is that it's the narrowest of all frame and decking snowshoes available. I would recommend the 25" length for you, which is the same width as the 22" version.You are right in the sense that these could be used for mountaineering and/or climbing challenging terrain, but they are as much at home on established or groomed trails. They're very easy to get on and off, they are really light weight, and you won't slip and slide while wearing them. The best part is that they are narrow. Remember, durability is the key here. This will be a purchase that will last you a lifetime. Purchasing a lesser shoe will only give you one that's heavier, less durable, harder to put on, far less traction, and much wider. Snowshoeing is relatively inexpensive, even on the high-end side. I would very much encourage you to go with these shoes. You won't regret it!:)

It shouldn't harm the stove, but you will see various degrees of performance. Try to avoid unleaded gasoline if at all possible. I would stick with white gas (ie. coleman fuel) whenever you can. White gas is the cleanest and best performing fuel with the highest BTU rating per ounce than any other fuel type. The true benefit of a multi-fuel stove is when an emergency situation bears it's ugly head. It's also a benefit if you travel outside North America. Other than that I would stick with white gas.

White gas, kerosene, and canister fuel all run totally clean, equally so. Then gasoline and then diesel.-----------I don't know if I entirely agree with this. Canister fuel is the cleanest because it has no impurities. White Gas is next, it being the most refined of all the petroleum based fuels (MSR SuperFuel is the cleanest of white gas fuels, next is Crown Fuel, and third is Coleman fuel). Kerosene is a horrible fuel to work with because it's hard to prime, is sticky and hard to clean off your hands, and it smells. I would avoid it if possible. The benefit of having a stove that works with kerosene is that it's readily available in Third World countries. Gasoline and diesel are not very good for most stoves. I would recommend diesel over gasoline because it usually doesn't contain additives and/or ethanol like gas does. Unleaded gasoline is the worst fuel you can use in any liquid fuel/multi-fuel stove.

It all depends on the WIDTH of the pad. The Trekker Lounge comes in either 20" or 25". If the widths match up between the pad and the chair, then the Tough Skin Pad will work.

In terms of coverage, the Beta SL is a waist-length coat (the other two are longer), so it is going to provide the least coverage of the jackets that you listed. The Alpha SL is a Gore-Tex Paclite material, which is great for backpacking because of how light-weight it is, but I would not say that it is particularly durable for skiing. The Theta SV is at the other end of the spectrum - designed for severe conditions (this is what the SV means).Personally - I'd go with something like either the Alpha LT or the Theta AR for your purposes. The Alpha LT is similar to the SL, just with a slightly heavier Gore-tex material, and the Theta AR is going to be a little heavier than the Alpha LT. Either of these would be good for most outdoor activities, and are a good compromise between being light-weight and being durable - the Alpha LT leaning towards lighter and the Theta AR leaning towards more durable.-----------I would go with the Alpha LT for an all-around jacket. I have the Sirrus SL (now the Alpha SL) and feel that it's durable, but is also minimal in it's construction. I would also consider the Westcomb Cruiser Hoody. The reason is it's got the same quality construction as Arc Teryx, the fit is spot on, and it uses eVent; the most breathable of all w/b materials. The Cruiser is Westcomb's best all-around shell which includes pit-zips and weighs in at about 15oz. It's durable where it needs to be, but also lighter weight than their expedition hardshells. It's got length that extends down to about mid rump and the hood is helmet-compatible (one of the best adjustable hoods out there). It won't be available for another month, but it might be worth considering or checking out if you're not in a hurry.

There's a lot to consider when buying a pack. The most important is FIT, period. This involves torso length (from the C7 vertebrate to the illiac crest (top of hip bone)) being measured along with your shoulder width. For an optimum fit it's also good to understand the curvature of your back, especially with packs that have aluminum stays (which can be bent). The next consideration is SIZE. How big do you want your pack to be. A couple of things to consider; too small a pack will limit you on the length of your trip. However, too big a pack with allow you to carry too much stuff and the pack itself is much heavier. It's important to note that bigger packs (4000-6000 cu in) can be used to carry smaller loads, but small packs (2000-4000 cu in) cannot be made bigger. Personally I think a 5000ish cu.in. pack is just right for someone who wants a pack that will go a week, but can also be used for weekend trips. The next consideration is WEIGHT of the pack. There are many options available today, but if you want one that's super durable, the pack will be heavier. If you're tough on gear, I would recommend one that doesn't contain much sil-nylon material, especially on the outside. The Denali Pro is a great pack for expedition use, but it's probably an overkill for most recreational backpackers. A better option would be the Gregory Whitney or Palisade. Osprey makes some great packs (the Argon is highly recommended) as does Granite Gear. If durability is what you want, Granite Gear's Stratus 5500 won the "World's Toughest Pack" competition put on by Backpacker Magazine a few years ago (they dragged it behind a jeep going 65mph on a dirt road with 25lbs of weight in the pack). Granite Gear packs also don't include stays, but have composite frame sheets that work very well in comforming to your back. I've owned a few over the years and have had great experiences. Arc Teryx also makes great packs and was recognized as the "World's Toughest Pack" along with Granite Gear (the standout being Bora 80). The last thing to consider is that your backpack is the most important piece of gear you will buy. Make sure you take the time and make the effort to find exactly what your looking for.

I would probably go with the Large. You could possibly get it into the medium, but it won't leave you much room for compression.

You are correct, no mesh. This bivy is meant to be used as an emergency bivy just in case things get bad. It is an excellent product that has a super durable floor (10,000mm coated 40D) and a highly water-resistant, breathable top. It's easy to get in and out due to the zipper-side access. It actually is a decent shelter if all you want is something to keep the occasional drops of moisture off of you while sleeping. For instance, in areas like the Grand Canyon where rain (at certain times of the year) is not that prevalent, this would be a great shelter option. It is also intended for times when you are caught in weather and need an emergecy shelter that's super fast to deploy. It isn't meant as a primary shelter for areas where a significant amount of rain is expected.

Women's snowshoes tend to be narrower, thus more comfortable to walk in. However the modern day snowshoe is far smaller than what most people are used to compared to the wood/rawhide relics used more now for hanging on walls. Women's snowshoes also tend to have smaller bindings for smaller feet. If your foot is smaller than size 5, this shoe might not fit. Also be aware that you will be walking with a wider stance than what your used to. If these things are ok, then you should be fine.

Are you going to melt snow (it being winter and all)? If your are I would bring a 30oz fuel bottle. If not, then the 20oz will work. If your worried about running out of fuel I would caution you to not use too much when priming. This is where the fuel gets used up. You can use fuel paste to prime if needed which will save you some fuel. I would also caution you to only fire up the stove when everything is ready to start cooking or boiling. In other words, I would have the water in the pot, the packages of food opened, and all the utensils ready to use before lighting the stove up. Conserving the fuel this way will allow it to go a long way.

It all depends on where you find yourself snowshoeing. If you think you will be in powder consistently over 30" then I could see you going with the men's 25s. However I think you would be best served with women's shoe. When the development of the snowshoe was underway, Cascade Designs hired a doctor who's specialty was how women walked. What she discovered is that it was a mere inconvenience for men when it came to the width of the snowshoe, but anatomically uncomfortable for women. The most important attribute of a women's snowshoe, she discovered, was how narrow it was, allowing women to walk with their legs closer together. The MSR Women's Lightning and Lightning Ascent snowshoes are the narrowest on the market currently but still offer excellent float capabilities. They also offer the best traction of any snowshoe and are super durable. My recommendation would be the Women's Lightning Ascent 25s for you...

Men's Medium is 16 oz. and the Large is 18 oz.

The best option, in my opinion, is the Zodi Shower which is propane powered that creates hot water instantly and fits in a super small package operated by a battery pump. Here's the link: http://www.zodi.com/web-content/The MSR PackShower is also a good option if you want simplicity. Because the bag is black, the sun warms up the water and with it's 30 Gallon capacity will give you a 10 minute shower. It's super tough, easy to fill, without worrying about batteries. Here's the link: http://www.backcountry.com/store/CAS0345/MSR-Packshower.html?

No it won't...The MSR IsoPro is too big around to fit. The only canister that will fit is the SnowPeak 110 Canister or the JetBoil 110 Canister.

They're both about the same weight (specs are wrong). The MSR IsoPro (113g) is 4oz and the SnowPeak (110g) is 3.8oz. The main difference between the two is the MSR has a larger diameter and has slightly more fuel where as the Snowpeak was made to fit in smaller pots/cups but doesn't have the stability of the MSR.