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Jonathan Callahan

Backpacker // Telemark Skier // Climber // Skier

Jonathan Callahan: #328 of 167,331 Top 500 Gear Guru More Information

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Low Profile for such a huge face, Good functions

Suunto Core Altimeter Watch

Suunto Core Altimeter Watch

Rating for this product: 4 December 21, 2011

Recently upgraded from a old High Gear altimeter to the Core special edition (black rubber band, green aluminum watch face). I have a medium to small wrist and was concerned the watch face would be too big. In reality the watch fits much better than my High Gear as the watch body is quite thin. The large diameter face meanwhile makes it easy to read.
Current gripes - on the special edition the buttons are made of metal and have a lot of texture. While this makes it easy to press buttons with gloves on, it can be irritating if the buttons dig into your wrist. Assuming this is less of an issue on the standard plastic buttons.
The other thing I'm getting used to is understanding how to use the advanced features of the watch. The instruction manual that came with the watch didn't provide any description of how to work with the advanced features (e.g. the storm alarm - sounds great but I haven't determined when I should expect it to pop up).
All in all, I really like this watch for its design and quality workmanship.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Patagonia Down Sweater Full-Zip Hooded Jacket - Men's

November 5, 2011

I find the down sweater to be reasonably warmer than the Atom LT. If you use the hood on the down sweater, you're going to get a lot more warmth out of it. But if you're looking for something significantly warmer than your LT for going homeless at the ski area, you might need to branch out of the ultralight down jacket category and look at something along the lines of a MH Sub Zero.

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No longer feel like fence posts

Black Diamond Kilowatt Ski

Black Diamond Kilowatt Ski

Rating for this product: 5 November 5, 2011

I have to admit that I thought I liked the older version of the Kilowatts (khaki topsheets) just fine - I like the dimensions, the weight is acceptable for such a solid ski, etc. But after getting a screaming deal on the updated 'Watts (blue topsheets), I realize just how much the old tan sticks skied like fence posts. The updates have made the ski flex much more consistently and this makes for a more forgiving ride. Mounting the blue Kilowatts up with tele bindings works well and my khaki 'watts are now relegated to early/late season downhilling.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Light and seemingly strong

Arc'teryx Beta SL Jacket - Men's

Arc'teryx Beta SL Jacket - Men's

Rating for this product: 4 August 31, 2011

I got my Beta SL on sale and feel mostly OK with that, however I don't think it's worth the msrp. For 11 oz it makes a good layer to toss in the pack and forget about, just in case. It obviously doesn't weigh much and the zipper and other features are consequently a little bit waifish. I haven't ripped the shell in 2 years of moderate alpine climbing and backpacking, but that doesn't mean I don't worry about a branch eating up my jacket. I use a different, heavier shell for day-to-day use in the Pac NW because I'm afraid of wearing this one out. Pit zips would be good as I get a little overheated when moving around, but then you'd should just get the Alpha SL for an additional ounce. I like the Beta SL for ultralight layering and 'just in case' situations but it's not a daily driver for me. Sizing in the "small" is consistent with other Arc'teryx pieces.

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Feels thin, handles smooth

Petzl Xion 10.1 Climbing Rope

Petzl Xion 10.1 Climbing Rope

Rating for this product: 5 August 19, 2011

Used a friend's Xion for cragging and couldn't believe it's a 10.1 as it felt more like 9.6mm's I've used. It fed really smooth through a variety of belay devices (grigri, grigri2, reverso, Smart) and the rope itself feels supple and soft. The other rope I was using that day was a stiff 9.8 Mammut Tusk and the difference between the two ropes was night and day. I haven't had a whole lot of trust in Petzl Ropes since their initial release and subsequent durability issues, however the Xion has restored my faith in their ropes.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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2011 version added odd, boxy cut

Stoic Luft Insulated Sweater - Men's

Stoic Luft Insulated Sweater - Men's

Rating for this product: 3 July 14, 2011

I really wanted to like this jacket. It's comfortable and the material seems durable. Unfortunately this latest season's version of the Luft Insulated Sweater (season with "Beehive" and "Black/Deep/Deep" as color options) is far too boxy for my frame. As Stoic gear tends more towards an athletic fit, I was surprised by the wide shoulders and waist on this jacket. Even with clothing layered under the jacket I had a lot of warmth escaping. Using the waist-cinch cord helped with retaining warmth but it killed the aesthetics of the jacket.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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prAna Mojo Short - Men's

June 24, 2011

Haven't had any issues with my stretching. The band is pretty wide so I reckon it'd take a lot of stretching action to ruin the band.

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Nice colors, good weight savings

Metolius F.S. Mini Jet Carabiner Set - 6-Pack

Metolius F.S. Mini Jet Carabiner Set - 6-Pack

Rating for this product: 4 June 14, 2011

The color coding makes racking cams easy but for rope-work I find the gate action and basket size to be less than ideal. Ultimately I end up reaching for the DMM spectre more than the FS Mini, but I dig the concept of the full strength baby biner. Plus, this is a great carabiner for all those super extreme people who carry their keys on their belt loop with a carabiner. Maybe you can suggest using the FS Mini as a less conspicuous option. Or a pocket...

Helpful Votes: 1 Yes

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Favorite Locker

Petzl Attache Locking Carabiner

Petzl Attache Locking Carabiner

Rating for this product: 5 June 14, 2011

This is a versatile, solid locking biner that I use for almost everything. The smooth, rounded edges make belaying a second off the anchor smooth. Also, rappels are smooth, the basket has plenty of space for a clove and multiple slings while it still stays out of the way on your harness. You can ditch some weight with the Attache 3D, but you lose the smoothness afforded by the round bar stock.

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Super

Petzl Attache 3D Screw-Lock Carabiner

Petzl Attache 3D Screw-Lock Carabiner

Rating for this product: 5 June 14, 2011

I love the 3d as a mother biner on multipitch anchors. I find that the smooth/rounded bar stock on the original attache feeds better when belaying a second directly off the anchor. The 3d is a bit shifty and you have to be sure to lock the screwgate with authority, but for the awesome weight to size ratio, I'm more than willing to compromise.

Side note - I wouldn't recommend top roping off this carabiner as it will likely wear the alloy down more quickly than a heavier carabiner.

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Feels cheap

Mad Rock Ultra Tech Screw-Gate Carabiner

Mad Rock Ultra Tech Screw-Gate Carabiner

Rating for this product: 2 June 14, 2011

I didn't feel too confident with the Ultra Tech screw gate. It felt like half the biner was made out of plastic and the other half was some kind of wispy alloy. Also, the screwgate required too many turns just to get it to move into position. I wouldn't recommend this carabiner.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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my favorite color coded wire gates

DMM Spectre 2 Carabiner - 5 Pack

DMM Spectre 2 Carabiner - 5 Pack

Rating for this product: 5 June 14, 2011

Really nice alternative to the BD rack pack. I find the gate action and size of the biner to be better than the neutrino (a good wire in its own right). Pairing the Spectre up with a BD Oz also makes for a functional, lightweight alpine draw.

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Versatile biner I never knew I needed

DMM Revolver Wire Gate Carabiner

DMM Revolver Wire Gate Carabiner

Rating for this product: 5 June 14, 2011

This biner really does reduce friction on wandering pitches and I've used it far more than I ever expected to. Now that it's available in a locker, it's also a nice addition to a glacier kit as an emergency pulley. That being said, if you're really planning to use a pulley, you'd best stick with a dedicated device.

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Works fine, doesn't thrill me

Metolius Element Key Lock Belay Carabiner

Metolius Element Key Lock Belay Carabiner

Rating for this product: 3 June 14, 2011

It works fine, but the element key lock feels a bit small and cheap as a belay 'biner. I'm sure it's plenty safe, but the screw-gate could do to be a bit smoother and easier to unlock. Given the choice between the Element and other options, the Element usually gets relegated to the second string.

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Good alternative locker

CAMP USA Picto Bet Lock

CAMP USA Picto Bet Lock

Rating for this product: 3 June 14, 2011

I've had the older version of this locker for three years now and have found it suitable for most of my needs. I really like the round bar stock but agree with the previous reviewer that noted that the biner shape is prone to twisting while belaying. Makes for a smooth rappel but I use my Petzl Attache more often lately.

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Great concept, biner size a potential issue

Mammut Smart Alpine Belay Device - 8.9mm-10.5mm

Mammut Smart Alpine Belay Device - 8.9mm-10.5mm

Rating for this product: 4 June 14, 2011

I love the original Smart belay device and had high hopes for the alpine version. Nevertheless, in order to accommodate two rope channels, Mammut had to make the width of this device a bit too wide for some locking biners. If you are belaying with a narrow-ish locker (i.e. Petzl AM'D), the belay device seems to get jammed in the curvature of the carabiner.
With an HMS locker like an Attache(wide pear shaped carbiners) this device fits fine. I imagine this is less of an issue on the smaller Alpine Smart(7.5mm to 9.5mm) but haven't gotten my hands on one to check. As long as you're not using a oval or D shaped locker, you should be fine.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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weight savings come with a price

CAMP USA Nano 23 Carabiner - Six Pack

CAMP USA Nano 23 Carabiner - Six Pack

Rating for this product: 2 June 14, 2011

Great to save weight when racking cams, but the gate is quite small when open. I prefer using a slightly larger biner like the Black Diamond Oz so that clipping the rope is easier. Also, the gate action does not inspire confidence on the Nano 23 and the absence of color coded options fails to fit my needs.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Light, nice gate ation and size

Mammut Moses Wire Gate Carabiner

Mammut Moses Wire Gate Carabiner

Rating for this product: 5 June 14, 2011

These are my favorite lightweight biners for alpine draws. While not the absolute lightest carabiner on the market, I do find that they are the best balance of a usable size (even with gloves), best gate action and light weight that you don't find with the miniature sized options currently available.

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Light and solid

Wild Country Neon Keylock Screwgate Carabiner

Wild Country Neon Keylock Screwgate Carabiner

Rating for this product: 5 June 14, 2011

I love how light these lockers are. They also have great gate action and I use them for building multi-pitch anchors. They do get a little bit crowded if you throw more than a clove hitch on the biner, so I don't use them as my mother biner. These complement the Petzl Attache 3D quite well for a ultralight anchor setup.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Stoic Microlith Softshell Pullover - Men's

June 14, 2011

Is this piece similar in fabric and usage to the Backcountry.com Rime pullover? Love my Rime and have been waiting for a replacement piece from Stoic. Any observations and comparisons between the Rime and the Microlith pullover would be greatly appreciated (sleeve length, fit/cut, etc). Thanks.

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Warm, Light, Trim Fit

MontBell Ultralight Thermawrap Insulation Parka - Men's

MontBell Ultralight Thermawrap Insulation Parka - Men's

Rating for this product: 5 April 14, 2011

I love this jacket for its durable yet soft fabric, light weight, and heat trapping properties. It fits nicely as a midlayer or can pull duty as an alpine belay jacket. Beyond being warm, light, and comfy, the jacket also packs down to the size of a Nalgene in the included stuff sack. I'm 5'8", 135 and the small works really well.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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G3 Alpinist Climbing Skin

February 15, 2011

With the rocker on those chargers, I think you'd be fine with getting 115's... The raised portion of the tip and tail aren't in contact with the snow, so getting a skin that fits your ski tip wall-to-wall is a bit of overkill. The 115's will give you full coverage underfoot, which is where the majority of your grip comes from anyhow.
Lengthwise - kinda tricky since your 171's fall in the overlap in their sizing. Personally, I'd go with the short but you might consider asking someone at BC.com to check out the lengths on a pair of chargers. Use the live-chat and see what happens.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Backcountry.com Rime Pullover Jacket - Men's

December 16, 2010

I'm relatively certain they've phased out the Backcountry.com label in deference to the Stoic brand. I'm bummed too.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Stoic Luft Hoody Insulated Sweater - Men's

December 13, 2010

I found this year's model to be much baggier when compared to my expected sizing in Stoic gear. It seemed nearly a full size larger and I had to return it.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Stoic Welder Trigger Mitt

October 28, 2010

I'm thinking there's no Primaloft on this one. Same story with the Mitt version. It looks like the Welder Glove is the only one with Primaloft insulation and the others use wool/linings.

Helpful Votes: 1 Yes

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Black Diamond Patrol Glove - Men's

October 28, 2010

I just washed mine (an older model) on cold and dried on very slow, low heat. They came out quite nicely, but you have to be patient with drying the liners. Unfortunately the glove doesn't turn inside out, so it takes a while. Keep the heat med-low and you should be fine.

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Nice Shirt, fit not as described

I/O Bio Merino Universal T-Shirt - Short-Sleeve - Men's

Rating for this product: 3 October 13, 2010

I'll start by saying that this shirt is quite comfortable, I dig the design (ember with the rainbow) and it appears to be of high quality.
Nevertheless I am a bit disappointed because the Backcountry product description calls this a "slim" fit while the I/O Bio description of the box explicitly says "Relaxed Fit." I'd say the fit tends more to the relaxed end of the spectrum and I'm bummed about that. Also, the shirt tail is surprisingly long--Like long enough that you could use it as a mini-skirt if that's how you roll. Perhaps a run through the washer will tidy these issues up.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Decent value, good construction

Kelty Crestone 1 Tent 1-Person 3-Season

Kelty Crestone 1 Tent 1-Person 3-Season

Rating for this product: 3 June 12, 2010

This tent is built well and thrives in a car-camping situation where you don't want to share a three person tent with two newly-weds. Or maybe your friend has a "great, huge tent that is super strong" that he bought at Target and you don't want to wake up to a face full of wet nylon when the tent pancakes in the wind.
Drawbacks: for a solo tent, 4lbs is a little hefty. It seems to me that you could shave quite a few ounces by changing out the supplied rail-road nails that serve as stakes. And the tent isn't free-stnading, so you'd better be camping some place that you can get the stakes driven in quite well.

Nevertheless, the vestibule will hold a pack and the interior is rather roomy for a one person rig.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Great Sport Draw

Black Diamond FreeWire Quickdraw

Black Diamond FreeWire Quickdraw

Rating for this product: 5 June 12, 2010

I am always amazed that these are at the bottom of the BD draw pricing scale. I much prefer the Freewire to the Hotwire or Quicksilver because the burly dog bones don't twist at all. The gates have a nice consistent action and the draw itself weighs in fairly competitively. As far as sport draws go, these are near the top of my list of fav's.

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Simple and Solid

Black Diamond Demon Backpack - 1831-1953cu in - 2009

Black Diamond Demon Backpack - 1831-1953cu in - 2009

Rating for this product: 5 June 12, 2010

The no-frills design on this pack couple with super burly material to create a good climbing workhorse. I have no concerns when chimneying, bushwacking, or butt-sliding down slabs in the Demon and the hike in is comfortable due to a well designed suspension and full hipbelt. The zippers are bomb-proof--no blowing out seams and sending your gear for an unplanned flight. It would be nice to easily throw a rope over the lid, but I guess this can be achieved with the tiny lashing straps (see sweet MS Paint picture below). All in all, I expect this pack to nobly suffer through years of abuse with no problem.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Weight savings has price

Black Diamond Firstlight Tent 2-Person 3-Season

Black Diamond Firstlight Tent 2-Person 3-Season

Rating for this product: 3 June 12, 2010

For three pounds five ounces you get a passable two person tent in a pinch. But the interior is somewhat cramped. I'm not a tall dude (5'8), and I felt like I could touch both ends of the tent while sleeping. This would be an issue except for the excessive condensation that builds up in the tent.

The tent is quite stable in high winds, and the pitch-from-within can be nice in rain. If weight is your primary concern on a climb, the Firstlight will fit the bill, but you must be willing to make some compromises. There's a reason this tent appears in so many magazines and trip reports recounting epics on cramped bivy ledges. And it has little to do with comfort or amenities.

Helpful Votes: 4 Yes

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Bomber Gear

Black Diamond Kilowatt Ski

Black Diamond Kilowatt Ski

Rating for this product: 5 June 12, 2010

I love my Kilowatts and am so pleased with their performance across a range of conditions. They are nimble in the trees, float nicely in all but the deepest of powder, and hold an edge on hard-pack. I've got a set of Hammerheads mounted and really enjoy this setup. It's my first pair of Black Diamond skis, but it most certainly will not be the last.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Lightweight, warm, breathes well

Backcountry.com Rime Pullover Jacket - Men's

Backcountry.com Rime Pullover Jacket - Men's

Rating for this product: 5 February 12, 2010

Potential concerns first: The torso on this pullover is short relative to most other pieces and the cut is quite fitted.
That being said, I don't think it is necessarily bad that the torso is short as it fits perfect under a jacket. You really wouldn't want the Rime to stick out from under everything you wear, right? If you're looking for a midlayer, order your normal size; If you're planning to use the Rime as more of a jacket, order a size up. I'm a S in other brands and the S Rime fits me very well. It is quite fitted, however, so don't be surprised.
The material is comfortably soft on the outside, does a great job of blocking the wind, and is remarkably lightweight overall. For (non-winter)alpine climbs I find pairing the Rime with a baselayer to be just about perfect.
Lastly, this pullover has held up fantastically well through many trips of abusive treatment- grungy chimneys, sharp cracks, and bushwhacking galore. Love my Rime.

Helpful Votes: 1 Yes

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Marmot Ama Dablam Down Jacket - Men's

December 8, 2009

Anyone know how this compares to the discontinued Marmot Cirque down jacket? I'm mostly concerned with durability and warmth.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Stoic Merino Bliss 150 Shirt - Long-Sleeve - Men's

November 7, 2009

Yeah it's pretty close. BC owns Stoic and have essentially the same people designing for Stoic.

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Solid, light, functional

Outdoor Research Hydrolite Pack Sack

Outdoor Research Hydrolite Pack Sack

Rating for this product: 5 June 2, 2009

Light and yet durable. These bags are a great way to keep your clothes dry and protected while backpacking. Also, they work surprisingly well for heavy loads--I've had close to 20lbs in the number 4 with no trouble.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Mesmerizing and Amazing

Mammut Smart Belay Device

Mammut Smart Belay Device

Rating for this product: 5 May 1, 2009

This is an awesome belay device. The simple yet effective design of the SMART induces awe and wonder. It provides the safety of an auto-lock, but comes at the lower price of an ATC. The SMART is rather intuitive to use, and the pictures on the side of the device help eliminate errors. Furthermore, feeding rope through the SMART is remarkably easy. Giving slack to the leader is almost silly-simple, and yet the locking mechanism is quick to engage. Nevertheless, just because it's a locking device, don't take your hands off the brake! (Same with a gri-gri).

Helpful Votes: 2 Yes

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Kelty Trail Dome 4 Footprint

April 21, 2009

The reason this is a bit undersized relative to the size of the tent is to prevent water from getting between the tent and the footprint.

Think about it this way: if the footprint is bigger than the tent and sits exposed to the rain, it creates a funnel-effect for water which then gets trapped under the floor of the tent. This completely undermines the whole purpose of the footprint, and gets your sleeping bag wet :(

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Scarpa T1 Telemark Ski Boot

April 9, 2009

Have you moved the buckles over to accommodate? You can use the hex key provided with the boots (or find a similarly sized one). I also have skinny calves and have added shims. Might be worth a shot.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Simple, thoughtful design

Metolius Rope Ranger Bag DO NOT USE

Metolius Rope Ranger Bag DO NOT USE

Rating for this product: 5 February 10, 2009

The Rope Ranger is a huge improvement over older Metolius rope bags that only had a single strap. Approaches are no longer spent shifting the strap from one shoulder to the other. That's not to say that the backpack straps are perfect--it's not like there's an internal frame or anything, but it gets the job done. Also, older versions used plastic clip-buckles whereas this one uses metal hooks. They are just as secure, easier to tighten, and will not break, leaving you with a half-tight, half-loose rope bag. There is ample room on the tarp to flake the rope out and put shoes on. And when it's time to leave, it all packs away into a compact package with room for your draws, or maybe part of a rack.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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bleh

CAMP USA Shell Belay Device

CAMP USA Shell Belay Device

Rating for this product: 3 February 10, 2009

Yes it works. Yes, you can belay. And rappel. But I disagree that it is just like the Black Diamond ATC. Loading the belay device is not smooth. Rappelling on the Shell device is not at all fast. Good luck lowering a climber who weighs less than 140 pounds. The belay device puts too much friction on the rope, preventing the rope from running smoothly. Finally, I'm concerned that the exposure of the wire loop (see below) could pose a significant issue for the integrity of your rope. Spend the extra Lincoln, and you won't have to purchase a replacement.

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Awesome binding.

22 Designs Hammerhead Telemark Binding

22 Designs Hammerhead Telemark Binding

Rating for this product: 5 February 2, 2009

The Hammerheads are hard to beat for powerful, active, responsive turns. The torsional stability is top-notch and the ability to change the response of the binding is nice, even if it is difficult at times. Also, the bomber construction instills confidence that the binding isn't going to disintegrate when you really lay into it. They're also competitively light and while they're not dedicated to touring, the HammerHeads are wonderfully versatile.

Helpful Votes: 3 Yes

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Encourages heavy petting

Mountain Hardwear Monkey Man Fleece Jacket - Men's

Mountain Hardwear Monkey Man Fleece Jacket - Men's

Rating for this product: 5 February 2, 2009

Warm, great as a mid layer. Works fine as an outerlayer but is not meant to block wind. Trim, athletic fit. If you want to put more than 1 or 2 layers underneath the jacket, size up. Very soft and visually intriguing exterior is highly tactile. If you don't like people asking if they can pet you, the monkeyman is not for you. thixophobiacs beware.

Helpful Votes: 2 Yes

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22 Designs Hammerhead Telemark Binding

January 30, 2009

The stock climbing wire rises about 1.75in. The tall HammerHeel can be found at http://www.backcountry.com/store/TTD0005/22-Designs-Tall-HammerHeel-Bail.html?CMP_ID=SH_FRO001&CMP_SKU=TTD0005&mv_pc=r126

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Super Comfy but not warm or waterproof

Black Diamond Patrol Glove

Black Diamond Patrol Glove

Rating for this product: 2 January 30, 2009

These gloves are made from really nice, soft, flexible leather. The dexterity is relatively high, but these benefits come at too high of a price for me. They are not very warm, especially after a season of use when the insulation packs out. Furthermore, my gloves are always wet after a day of skiing, even when the skies are clear. Merely coming into contact with snow will lead to wet hands later. The wrist gauntlet is an awkward size as it is too small to go over a jacket cuff, but they're almost too bulky to fit under a cuff with elastic and velcro. The gloves are very durable, have a decent design, and a lot of potential, but I can't in good conscience recommend them for cold weather use. They could make good 40 degree work gloves, or belay gloves.

Helpful Votes: 3 Yes

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Comfortable, solid boot

Black Diamond Seeker Telemark Ski Boot - Men's

Black Diamond Seeker Telemark Ski Boot - Men's

Rating for this product: 5 January 7, 2009

I've been demoing the Seeker for the past week and have been really quite pleased. It is a lower cuff boot than something like a T-1. Not having skied the T-2 I can't speak to its relative stiffness; however, I think it has great torsional support and is consistent and predictable in flex. I like the BOA system on the liner though it does take longer to put on. And the ski/walk modes are well thought out and actually make a noticeable difference.
My one major complaint after 8 days of lift-served skiing is the boot seems to let a lot of snow in and the liners consequently get wet.

Helpful Votes: 4 Yes

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Great for alpine, multi-pitch trad

Mammut Infinity Climbing Rope - 9.5mm

Mammut Infinity Climbing Rope - 9.5mm

Rating for this product: 5 September 30, 2008

This is a great rope that handles well and is really light. It does stretch a fair bit, so don't expect to take it top roping or hang dogging and have it perform the same as a fatty rope.
Packs down nicely in a rope bag or backpack.

Helpful Votes: 1 Yes

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