david sharratt

I have used the Pontas Lace up for grade V alpine big wall climbs, traditional cragging at the notoriously technical faces of Looking Glass, NC and on the overhanging routes at the Madness Cave in the Red River Gorge. The rubber is sticky, they give a SOLID edging platform, they fit very comfortably, and the rubber on the sides gives good protection in cracks. They are not as sensitive as their velcro counterpart, nor do they perform as well on overhanging terrain. I have made this shoe my first choice for techy trad and cracks.

For a shoe of this type (specialized for steep hard climbing) it is exceptionally comfortable and versatile. I often see beginner-intermediate climbers using this shoe and having fun -- which says a lot! Try another company's "secret weapon" model on anything but the gnar-gnar and you will feel like your big toe is about to break. The key to this comfort is a less asymetric last while creating an aggressive downturned shape that stays through the life of the shoe. This model also features a deep high volume heel cup which fits and performs very well for me. The Optimus Primes have helped me step it up on gently overhanging to severely overhanging terrain. They fit tight! I wear a 9 pontas, but a 9.5 Optimus Prime

If I had to only climb in one shoe, this would be it. Great on technical face or slab, yet the pointy somewhat stiff big toe digs into pockets and little foot chips on overhanging terrain. These shoes are a great value, very durable, and super comfy - an all around performer suited for the intermediate or expert alike.