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Mark McDonald

Mark McDonald: #10,793 of 174,454 More Information

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  • Stomping Grounds:

    NE PA

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Five Ten Jet 7 Climbing Shoe

March 20, 2010

hi, andrew.
I just recently picked up the jet 7's and have been using the anasazi vcs for a little while now. I really like the anasazi's a ton. they're great shoes and imo will climb most of the stuff the jet 7's will. the jet 7's on the other hand will really do much better on overhung stuff (cave stuff). I'd really try and gauge what you want your shoes to do for you and where you need them.
both are great at what they do, but from a shoe standpoint they're entirely different. jet 7's have the turned down toe, incredibly aggressive fit (much tighter in the toe box), while the anasazi's are flat (awesome for edging, especially bicycling/etc) and incredibly versatile.

some people complain about baggy heels in the ansazi's, if you try them on, I'd advise sizing them to fit your heel properly and understand that even with lined shoes the toe box gives and comforms quite a bit.

both are great shoes again, at the end of the day. determine what you want them for and understand what each shoe offers.

Helpful Votes: 1 Yes

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simply awesome!

Arc'teryx C80 Chalk Bag

Arc'teryx C80 Chalk Bag

Rating for this product: 5 February 18, 2010

I had another bag that I didn't really think much about, it wound up being too narrow. I couldn't get my hands in it even without it belted. The c80's awesome, it's not that long (it does look sort of long in the pictures) but it's very wide-mouthed and between that and the stiff brim, it's awesome. The pocket's great and doesn't bleed chalk or anything through to your cell-phone or wallet (yet it'll fit a wallet) the angled brim makes dipping incredibly easy and the one I got in black looks amazing.

It may be a few bucks more than other chalk bags, but compared to fussing trying to get your hands in one in the middle of a circuit at the gym or where-ever else, you're better off spending the extra 6-$10 and getting the bag you'll be happy with.

Helpful Votes: 1 Yes

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Tips/ tricks

Black Diamond Forearm Trainer

Black Diamond Forearm Trainer

Rating for this product: 5 January 31, 2010

I picked one of these up a few weeks ago and since getting it, I haven't really put it down.
I use it every other day (to allow time for my forearms to rest) and just go light during off days.

I've found some neat tricks to use this, as I initially was pretty disappointed with it.

1) Do max reps on each hand before swapping hands (I personally do 80 on each hand, then break for 2-5 minutes and go again)
2) If you don't feel you're getting enough resistance, you can slide it up in your palm further and it'll make it a lot more difficult to fully close.
3) Make sure you're closing it with the tips of your fingers, not between your joints.
4) If you want to make the whole process a lot more difficult, don't fully release it after each squeeze, keep constant tension on your hand.

Overall, after toying with it I'm pretty impressed with how good of a forearm workout it gives, and I can do it while at work.
I will mention, it does make your hands smell like rubber, but who cares?

Helpful Votes: 2 Yes

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Anasazi VCS

Five Ten Anasazi VCS V2 Climbing Shoe - Men's

Five Ten Anasazi VCS V2 Climbing Shoe - Men's

Rating for this product: 5 January 31, 2010

I got these a few months ago from another vendor who had a huge sale (sorry, BC), but sized them down 1 full size from my street shoe (12 street shoes, 11 anasazi) and they were very tight in the toe box when I got them.
After about a month, they've broken in quite a bit and I don't notice any real discomfort while climbing in them, the heel feels very good and tight, quite comfy for heel hooking.

I've read reviews of people saying they have baggy heels in the anasazi's, and I honestly think it's due to improper sizing. These are in fact synthetic shoes, which won't hugely stretch... but you should expect them to change, not stay the same.

I went with a fit that the heels felt perfect in. When I put the shoes on, my heel "pops" in and doesn't budge. After some additional toying with the straps, over the first week I've found that with a tight upper strap and a somewhat relaxed lower, I get the best fit for comfort.

In terms of smearing performance, I've had no issues with smearing on some tight cave problems at the gym and the edging is great.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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