The freeride is a BC mainstay for good reason. I spent many seasons on them before switching to dynafit last year. I LOVE touring on dynafits and have skied them a few days at the resorts, but there are a few advantages to the freeride. The comparison between Fritschi and Dynafit has been covered exhaustively on places like wildsnow.com and the tetongravity forums, but I'll try to sum it up. Fritschies are pure "step-in" bindings, whereas there is a bit of fiddle factor with dynafits. Fritschis have a bit more of an aggressive climbing post set-up (higher top post), and put you a bit higher off the ski than dynafits. Dynafits, in spite of their seeming lack of beef, have a much stiffer connection to the ski than freerides and have a much better touring pivot position, though I hear the new eagles aren't too far off from dynafits now. If you are going for patrol and also are new to the backcountry, I would probably go with the Fritschi set-up. You will be able to pop into and out of your skis quickly, and won't have as steep a learning curve with your gear in the BC. If you end up doing lots of BC, you will likely end up with dynafit some in the future, but freerides have and continue to work for people in exactly the capacity you describe just fine. Either binding will be durable enough to handle whatever you want to throw at them, as long as you mount and adjust them properly.

You should be able to. If anything, you might have to move the binding forward or back on the ski to miss the inserts. Take your skis and boots to a shop that has these bindings and check it out, but the holes for the toe-piece of a fritschi are pretty far forward and should miss the inserts. The rears shouldn't be a problem.

ICELantic Nomads, Seth Vicious, and the Coomback all come to mind. Something right around 100mm under foot seems to the be the sweetspot for a BC/resort pow set-up. I would go with a 170-175 unless you rip pretty good. You're heavy enough for a 180, but could be a bit long for 5'6", esp for the boat's tight trees.

Be a slow-shoer no more! BD Ascension or Glidelites are the standard to which all other skins are measured. I'm on my 4th season on the same glidelites, so nuff said. Make sure you get a skin with the tail attachment, no matter what. I would go with either all nylon or the mohair mix. As a rule, nylon is more durable, has better bite on steeper tracks, and will repel water/ice a bit better than mohair. Mohairs glide better, are lighter and pack smaller, and have been relegated to the domain of randonnnee racing as such. They will weigh a bit more than pure mohairs, but WAY less than snowshoes, either way. G3 skins are good, too, but some don't like the tip connection. Hope that helps.

Also, rule of thumb on skin sizing for everyone out there:
Take a ruler and measure the fattest part of the tail of your skis that will actually touch the snow. Buy the closest size that will cover this measurement. You can always go with the listed tail dimension, but they are less accurate than you would think. Your shovel never comes into play while skinning, and it's usually the widest part of the ski. There's no need to buy a super wide skin and then trim 30mm off of the whole thing unless you like wasting money.

MadDOGGG, 130mm skins on Volkl Kuros are going to perform like boat anchors, basically because it's about the heaviest touring set-up I can imagine, especially if you have some Dukes on there. If you seriously want to tour on these, I would think about even going to a 140mm skin, if such a thing exists. That way you can trim them wall to wall. Even with 130mm skins, you would probably be leaving enough open base to have you falling on your face on steeper tracks. I would find the cheapest skin in that size, and then spend what you saved on a gym membership or a gazelle (see pic) to develop massive hip flexors so they don't explode on your first tour.