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Jesse

Climber

Jesse: #16,689 of 93,957 More Information

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if you climb higher than 10a look else where

Evolv Elektra Climbing Shoe - Women's

Evolv Elektra Climbing Shoe - Women's

Rating for this product: 2 September 30, 2009

I bought these shoes after a long break from climbing, hoping to ease my feet back in to shape slowly. After about a month I was fed up.

Pros:
-cheap
-velcro
-narrow heel

cons:
-rubber, having climbing almost exclusively in Five Ten's before, I was really frustrated with the ability to stay on small chips and smears, I was always feeling like I was about to slip and smash my face in to the wall
-stretch, I bought these true to my street size, thinking that I wanted comfort and being synthetic I wouldn't have to worry about stretch. After a month I felt as though my feet were drowning in these shoes, not daring to even attempt heel hooks.

That's my 2 cents.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes | 0 No

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Awesome...but...

Five Ten Siren Lace-up Climbing Shoe - Women's

Five Ten Siren Lace-up Climbing Shoe - Women's

Rating for this product: 4 September 30, 2009

I've been out of climbing for a while. Back in the day I used to climb in Five Ten Dragons and Boreal Matrix's, both shoe sized aggressively tight. It was surreal to me to have a shoe that I could pull hard on 10d/11a in the gym and not have to slip them off as soon as I hit the ground. The upper is super soft and stretches nicely. The rubber grips, well like stealth rubber always does, solidly. I tried to go cheap at first and bough a pair of Evolv's before this but the rubber just wasn't up to what I have grown used to with Five Ten and I quickly snatched these up.

Now the bad:
-stink, these shoes do not breath at all, and your feet will SWEAT!! I use cedar blocks in them to help afterwards, but they are still not allowed inside my climbing bag (I use the water bottle pocket on the outside for them)
-although exceedingly comfortable, I wish I had sized just a hlaf size down, after 2 months of 3-4 day a week gym climbing the rubber around the crease between my tows and top of my foot is starting to pull away, I think due to the ammount of pressure put on the spot when i climb
-the laces are WAY to long, both the regular and elastic are SUPER long. I got around this by cutting the elastics and burning the ends together about 2 inches above where the are tight on my foot, this way i can get in and out easily, but am not worried about stepping on my laces.

Overall, I love these shoes, they have there foibles for sure, but the comfort combined with the sweet rubber really make them my fave all around shoe.

Helpful Votes: 1 Yes | 0 No

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