Love these shoes, on my third pair.

They are a great all around shoe, they edge, smear and toe really well. The rubber is just right, a good balance of smear-ability, sticky-ability and edge-ability. I don't care what other companies say, the stickest rubber doesn't win, sticky stuff is generally too soft and doesn't edge well.

The extra rubber on the toe, for me, puts more power down to the big toe, doesn't really add much for toe hooking.

Heel could be a little tighter, but nice and high performs well enough. I feel some space, but like I said it has never failed me.

Takes about 3-4 session to settle and get more sensitive, but after then it doesn't stretch at all. I wouldn't it stretches in the first 3-4 sessions...more a setting to your foot size.

Mine feet sweat like crazy in them...then the stink comes. I wash in sink with warm water and detergent every month, works fine.

It really suck when a company changes a shoe that really fit well.

The "new mugen" had junky rubber, so I was excited when they came out with the updated mugen tech. I loved everything about the "new", but the "tech" is so different.

Seems the Jester is the closest to my beloved mugen, but they added a stretch synthetic material. Come on, why would you do that.

So, back to the tech. They are mostly lined leather, expect on the toe where there is a rubber cap. The rubber cap doesn't stretch, and has made the toe box much tighter on the little piggies side. Toe is correct, they edge pretty well, but are not comfortable at all for me, going up a size and the toe was too loose.

Prefer evolv pontas for harder route climbing...more versatile with flat bottom and much more sensitive.

If Madrock could take the old "New Mugen" upper, and put their newest rubber, with a flat 4.5mm sole that could smear, they would have a winner.

OK ONE LAST NOTE, I CALL SHANAGANS ON 90% OF THE REVIEWS BELOW. I DON"T BELIEVE FOR 1 SECOND THEY ARE LEGITIMATE REVIEWS.

It doesn't look in the picuture, but they are a powerful down turned shoe. There is a lot of concave in the toe area similar to how sportiva solutions are.

Most of the shoe is leather, but don't be fooled, they are not going to stretch much, there fore foot is all rubber and the toe area is fully lined. They will stretch some side to side, but with 3 straps that shouldn't be in issue.

I don't like the heel as much as other mad rocks, it doesn't seem to be very deep, the back of the heel doesn't come very high up, which makes for a shallow pocket.

Now, they edge, toe like a freaking mad man. The rubber is pretty sticky too.

I wouldn't expect a downturn show to smear well, these are no exception, especially with the dual thickness bottom.

I have liked the fit of other mad rocks in the past, but the more rubber on the toe of their shoes have made the little toes mighty cramped. Which is a weird feeling, plenty of room for big toe, not for the other piggies. Would like to have sized down one, but just couldn't, traded comfort for a more powerful big toe.

Using mainly for playing around bouldering at gym.

Prefer evolv pontas for harder route climbing...more versatile with flat bottom and much more sensitive.

If Madrock could take the old "New Mugen" upper, and put their newest rubber, with a flat 4.5mm sole that could smear, they would have a winner.

Sizing from Camp-USA Site:

Sizes
XS: Waist - 58-68 cm, 23-27 in | Leg - 48-58 cm, 19-23 in
S: Waist - 65-75 cm, 25.5-29.5 in | Leg - 52-62 cm, 20.5-24.5 in
M: Waist - 72-82 cm, 28.5-32 in | Leg - 56-66 cm, 22-26 in
L: Waist - 79-89 cm, 31-35 in | Leg - 60-70 cm, 23.5-27.5 in
XL: Waist - 89-96 cm, 35-38 in | Leg - 64-74 cm, 25-29 in

I have a 30in waist, with the M (28.5-32) I have it cranked all the way down to the point the right gear loop and belay loop are awkwardly next to each other.

I got this because the ArcTyex s240 had really tight leg loops for me, so I needed adjustable leg loops. This harness other then the sizing is going to fit the bill just fine. Probably better then the s240. This has 4 gear loops and a tab for the chalk bag. S240 is bare, bare, bare. Doesn't pack as small as the S240, but the Air CR is still gets pretty small and is almost the same weight.