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Jason Y

Climber

Jason Y: #8,404 of 98,846 More Information

2 Reviews:

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1 Questions:

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Five Ten Dragon Lace-up Climbing Shoe

May 2, 2009

I am a solid 8.5US (41.5 Euro) in both the 5.10 Mocs and La Sportiva Solutions. And I wear a 9.0 US (42.0 Euro) in the 5.10 Galileo. I was wondering if I should get a 9.0 US or a 9.5 in these shoes?

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La Sportiva Solution Climbing Shoe

March 28, 2009

I have both the Mocs and the Solutions and I am a solid 8.5US (EURO 41.5) in both. La Sportiva, just from trying on different styles run big.

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Five Ten Galileo Climbing Shoe

March 20, 2009

I wear a 9.0-9.5 street shoe and I got a 9.0 in the Galileos.

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After a year of use...

Five Ten Galileo Climbing Shoe

Five Ten Galileo Climbing Shoe

Rating for this product: 5 March 20, 2009

I have been climbing in these shoes for a little over a year. The reason it took me so long to write a review is that I think it is fair for potential consumers to read reviews after a year's use rather than 1 month of use. Honestly, any one of the shoes on this site would get five stars after a month of use; it is how the shoes perform after an extended period of time that I consider when paying an arm and a leg for them.

I would describe myself as an avid climber who understands the importance of a quality shoe. I purchased these shoes about a year ago and they still are treating me well. The rubber is still sticky, the shoe itself is held up through countless sessions in the gym (bouldering and lead). There are some marks near the big toe. But that is mainly from me being a beginning climber and having bad footwork rather than the rubber breaking down. The sizing and the overall "grab" of the shoe has retained its shape. (I wear a street size 9, 9.5, or 10.0 depending on the shoe, am a solid 9.0 in these shoes). It is no "looser" than it was the day I bought them. Pretty remarkable considering I washed them twice and the amount of usable I put into them.

I also purchased the La Sportiva Solutions and 5.10 Mocs within the same year. The Solutions are fabulous but like some of the reviews I have read, the rubber is very thin at the top of shoe and tends to have the track marks; which will affect your performance. I actually had to return a pair to La Sportiva because a hole developed in the right foot; after one month of use!!!! While the return was being processed, I put the Galileos back on and still use them today. I occasionally use the Solutions but I came to realize the obsession over 5.10's rubber. I will definately purchase another pair of Galileo's in the future and possibly try a pair of Dragons. Seems like that is the elite shoe nowadays.

The only complaint I have, and this is me nit-picking, is that there is some "dead space" in the heel. The heel of the shoe grabs my heel well enough to trust it on a bad heel hook but I can see the dead space. I guess these shoes are meant for people with wider feet. I have about an average width foot.

Helpful Votes: 2 Yes | 0 No

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Right now, not for me...

La Sportiva Solution Climbing Shoe

La Sportiva Solution Climbing Shoe

Rating for this product: 3 March 20, 2009

First, these shoes are great. Very sticky, awesome heel, and very aggressive. These shoes would get 5 out of 5 if I was writing from someone who has climbed for years on end.

But I am writing this review as someone who has been climbing for a little over a year. Usually that means your footwork will not be as precise and hence you will rock on jibs more than you should. After a month of use, a hole developed on the right shoe right below my big toe. I had to return them to La Sportiva to get a new pair. Very good customer service BTW. I can already hear everyone saying "well, if you were a better climber it wouldn't have happened." I agree, but we all don't start out like Chris Sharma. If you are a beginner/intermediate climber I would not recommend these shoes. The rubber is very thin due to the downturn and like another reviewer pointed out, if the strap goes, the shoe is pretty much pointless. It is something I actually predict will happen in the near future.

And the price is another factor you have to consider. Sure, if you are Daniel Woods and get these shoes for free whenever you need them, you're not going to consider the price. But as an average Joe, spending 150 bucs for a pair of shoes that I feel will not last a year is not worth it. I don't mind spending a few bucks for something that will last. But right now, at the level I am at, it is not worth it. Maybe, after 5-10 years of climbing, I'll reconsider.

Once again, a great shoe for someone who feels confident about their footwork but for someone who is still a little sloppy and overly aggressive on jibs on bad holds, it is not worth it.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes | 2 No

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