I tried 2 types of Scarpa (charmoz and summits), 2 types Asolos (expert gv and makalu), 3 types sportivas (trangos, glaciers and nepal evo) and a pair of Kaylands (can't recall which). While both Scarpa's and the expert gv's and the Nepal Evos fit GREAT! The minute I put these on... it was love. Thick or thinner sock, stock insole or the green ones. AWESOME! I usually suffer in the toe box and across the width. Not here! great rocker for approaches, a little more flex than other stiffer boots makes for easier approaching. Haven't had any issues since purchase with my feet. I am a tough customer with shoes/boots. Feet must be comfy or they detract totally from any climb. After too long in crappy fitting boots-these have been bomber. Did I mention they are lighter than the summits and Nepal Evos too! At least they feel that way becasue they fit so well.
Here's how it breaks down: I fit a med.-higher volume, slightly wider 11.5US size (45-45.5 eu size) boot/shoe.
Scarpa:
Summits-had front to back sliding issues. Otherwise loved them in a 45.5, 45's fit until I did a toe tick-then pain resulting from toes jammin into the stiff toe box. Thicker sock recommended as well as green insoles to help with the sliding. Also had a bit of trouble sinching them up since they were quite stiff leather. great boot. Almost bought these.
charmoz's I had concerns with durability, but were great at 45.5 size too, 45 was narrow. Good flex for quick assaults, likely not too warm for cold weather hauls.
Sportivas (trangos and glaciers)-toe box TOO SMALL! and pinched in the width. didn't even have to lace them to know they didn't fit. Kaylands fit like these on my feet. too narrow.
Sportiva Nepal evos--rocked! Just too much boot for what I will be doing most of the time in the WA Cascades, and a bit more than my pocket could swallow. Were also a bit stiff considering long approaches and may be warm in moderate weather = clammy feet...would love these for more technical stuff, possibly even use on some major domestic and international routes. Would be more than bomber on any Washington state mountain and likely so for Mt Hood and so on.
Asolo's-
The experts were great with a medium weight hiking sock, threw in the green insoles still ok, add a thicker sock = width problems, but toe box was still good. didn't matter which boot. They aren't insulated so expect colder feet on cooler climbs.
Makalu's just didn't feel right after the Lowa's.
Lowas- bought size 11.5. Angels sung when they hit my feet. Hasn't mattered since. Put some miles on them and plan to use them on many more. Ice, glaciers, trails. They just work for my feet.
Trangos + Charmoz + Lowa Mt Experts all have the same sole. While I haven't had major sole wear yet, I hear they wear faster than other sole types. But, they can be re-soled. I doubt the boot will wear out before the sole. Good construction. Have a buddy with the Trangos-his are busting up before the treads have...
These fit both my G-12's (strap style) and my BD Mako's (step ins) and perform well in both. But, for vert I think something with a bit more heft and stiffness would be better, but still good performers. A bit flexy for toe holding w/o crampons on rock but not bad.
I found them to have a bit more flex for the approaches than the Nepal evos, asolos, and Summits (right out of the box). I would put them a might stiffer flex than the trangos or charmoz, but more flexy than the summits and evos . The summits and Evos would likely break in, but see above for reasons for why I didn't keep them.
Take home message: Fit was everything for my purposes.
