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Fool4Gear

Climber // Whitewater Kayaker // Mountain Biker

Fool4Gear: #2,532 of 91,775 More Information

6 Reviews:

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  • Stomping Grounds:

    Pacific Northwest

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Black Diamond ATC Guide

June 8, 2009

The short answer is "Yes", this device is more versatile- you can use this as a standard belay device, with or without the braking grooves (depending on how you feed the rope), you can use it with two ropes at once (vital if you're rapping off the anchors) and you can use it (as with the GriGri) as an autoblocking haul/belay device. It is more tolerant of rope diameter variation than the GriGri.

That said, the GriGri does a couple things better: 1) it passively protects a climber in cases where an ATC won't (tho as noted elsewhere, you should always treat any belay device as though it required you to pay attention) and 2) it's simpler to configure and operate, since it's sorta automatic and has only one configuration.

If you can only have one belay device, let this be it- get a GriGri later for the added convenience a GriGri gets you.

Helpful Votes: 1 Yes | 0 No

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Beefy, and large.

DMM Boa Carabiner

DMM Boa Carabiner

Rating for this product: 5 June 8, 2009

This is a confidence-inspiring locker- perfect to match with an ATC, as a master-point on a crowded anchor, or to run your top-rope through after you've created an anchor you'd hang your car on.
The thing the description and picture don't adequately convey is that this carabiner is *stout*- so stout, in fact, that it will not fit in the eye of a Gri-gri, and some chains/hangars you'll find up on the wall will not be large enough to accommodate it- or if they are, sometimes they won't accommodate anything else. This is the piece you reserve for times where overkill is exactly what you want.

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Petzl Grigri Belay Device

June 6, 2009

I don't think the soundness of the device should be your concern here- if you're taking big falls, the GriGri is unlikely to be the point of failure in your system. I'd be more concerned about your top point of protection (which will get 1.6x the force you experience in a fall), your belayer (who should be anchored if you've got a significant weight disparity- she'l get .6x your falling force minimum), or any number of points in your system that are weaker than the grigri.

I strongly suspect that if you load your system to the point that the grigri fails, you have other, more serious problems- like, your spine (or that of your belayer, or some other part of your system) will have disintegrated under the load already.
Be careful. If you're a lot bigger than your belay partner (I've got 80lbs on my wife, so I'm hip) you've got more to do to protect them- this is easy to learn, and I highly recommend it.

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Stealth pack/organizational system

Mountain Hardwear Splitter Backpack - 2150-2350cu in

Mountain Hardwear Splitter Backpack - 2150-2350cu in

Rating for this product: 5 June 6, 2009

This isn't just a bag, it's an organizer, with compartments and pockets for everything. Comes with a tarp, and has a clip point inside for it. The gear loops have plenty of racking space for a stout sport rack (it gets crowded if you've got a lot of gear), and the internal compression panel allows you to put the heavy stuff against your back, instead of in the bottom of the pack.

As a pack, the harness is comfy and adjustable, no surprises await you here.

Once you're at the crag, it opens all the way up, making everything easy to see and sort- a definite luxury that my buddies comment on. If you're an organization fetishist with firm opinions about everything having its place, this pack has a spot for pretty much everything. The material is plain burly, perhaps over-engineered, but waterproof and confidence-inspiring.

I find that if I put my rack + shoes + harness + a full water bag that getting a rope in there is an iffy thing- even though this is big for a 'day pack', it's not quite big enough for everything- I keep my rope in a separate bag- but it's waay convenient to just grab this and a rope on the way out of the garage!

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What a delight for edging, hooking, and back-hung climbing

Mad Rock Con-flict Strap Climbing Shoe

Mad Rock Con-flict Strap Climbing Shoe

Rating for this product: 4 June 5, 2009

When I got these shoes, problems I'd been working on for weeks because I couldn't hold an edge or keep a toe on all went, one by one- and problems I'd been too intimidated to start became my new problems. If I could have just one pair of gym/sport/comp shoes, these might be the pair- they simply stick on the little edges with power to spare and the heel cup is bomber.

The concave toe (with a thin sole between the raised rubber bits) does stretch a bit and make this shoe smear tolerably, but I found that those inner edges would sometimes catch, or (while foot-jamming in cracks) roll that edge inside out and deform the thin sole between the built-up edges- leading to the early demise of an otherwise outstanding shoe.

If you're looking for a comp/gym/bouldering shoe, these perform amazingly well (especially for their price).
I found them a bit uncomfortable for multi-pitch climbing, and entirely too fragile for jamming. Stay on those edges.

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Mad Rock Con-flict Strap Climbing Shoe

June 5, 2009

About the same. I had them both in the same size, and wouldn't recommend any up-or-down sizing.
Expect the conflict to be a little less comfortable at first, as it is more built-up around the toebox and will break in a bit more slowly.

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Sweet.

Simond Goliath BLC Locking Carabiner

Simond Goliath BLC Locking Carabiner

Rating for this product: 5 June 5, 2009

This is a superior belay carabiner, in that it keeps your belay loop locked in one end even when you get slack in your system, pretty much guaranteeing that when it loads up, it does so on its major axis every time. It does require that you actually put your belay loop inside the internal gate, of course- I haven't seen what would happen if I didn't, but I expect that the worst-case scenario would be that the internal gate would bend or break. The internal gate does make this a fairly specialized piece of gear (perhaps not ideal as, say, a master-point with multiple cordolette strands to stuff inside the minor gate) but for belaying or your personal anchor, it's a superior piece of gear.

It's my locker of choice to mate up with my gri-gri for this reason: it stays put, while similar lockers (ones without a retention gate) rotate a bit as you give and take slack- occasionally resulting in gate-loading the belay locker with your buddy (or in my case, my wife) on the other end of that rope.

The locking gate has a 3-way release- you slide the collar down, then rotate the collar, then open the gate- this sounds cumbersome, but it becomes a quick one-handed motion very easily.

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Very predictable, smooth and sweet

Wild Country Helium Clean Wire Quickdraw

Wild Country Helium Clean Wire Quickdraw

Rating for this product: 5 May 19, 2009

I am a fan of these draws, but must say that I started with them and did not experience any of the frustration others report- I just learned with them and find them very usable- clipping is always smooth and precise, and they are a pleasure to rack up with- the hooded latch does not hook on gear or hangars, you can fit 10+ on a gear loop, the gates do not chatter, and they're plain burly in spite of being so light- if you look at the specs, these carabiners are rated stronger than many lockers.

Another thing that sets these draws apart is the ropeside end of the dogbone- it's got a little elastomer thingy that secures the anodized carabiner in the draw such that it loads on the long axis of the rope-side 'biner every time.

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Sweet, but I wish they'd do more than just 2 inseam options

prAna Stretch Zion Pant - Men's

prAna Stretch Zion Pant - Men's

Rating for this product: 4 May 15, 2009

These pants are super-comfy, flexible, and have become my favorite pants for climbing- they stretch, breathe, keep you cool, protect your skin, and seem (so far) to shed dirt and wear nicely. For climbing, I can't figure out a single fault.

I wish they came, like most all other pants, in specific inseam lengths- they seem to say 'take it or leave it', and the sizing chart doesn't say just how long they are- basically, you get them how you get them. Since my inseam is shorter than the 36" or so that come in a large, I'm gonna have to hem them if I don't want to wear them rolled-up all the time. That is really my only complaint about these pants. In all other respects, they're sweet enough that I now own 3 pair.

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