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Climber // Whitewater Kayaker // Mountain Biker
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Black Diamond ATC Guide
June 8, 2009
The short answer is "Yes", this device is more versatile- you can use this as a standard belay device, with or without the braking grooves (depending on how you feed the rope), you can use it with two ropes at once (vital if you're rapping off the anchors) and you can use it (as with the GriGri) as an autoblocking haul/belay device. It is more tolerant of rope diameter variation than the GriGri.
That said, the GriGri does a couple things better: 1) it passively protects a climber in cases where an ATC won't (tho as noted elsewhere, you should always treat any belay device as though it required you to pay attention) and 2) it's simpler to configure and operate, since it's sorta automatic and has only one configuration.
If you can only have one belay device, let this be it- get a GriGri later for the added convenience a GriGri gets you.
Helpful Votes: 1 Yes | 0 No
Petzl Grigri Belay Device
June 6, 2009
I don't think the soundness of the device should be your concern here- if you're taking big falls, the GriGri is unlikely to be the point of failure in your system. I'd be more concerned about your top point of protection (which will get 1.6x the force you experience in a fall), your belayer (who should be anchored if you've got a significant weight disparity- she'l get .6x your falling force minimum), or any number of points in your system that are weaker than the grigri.
I strongly suspect that if you load your system to the point that the grigri fails, you have other, more serious problems- like, your spine (or that of your belayer, or some other part of your system) will have disintegrated under the load already.
Be careful. If you're a lot bigger than your belay partner (I've got 80lbs on my wife, so I'm hip) you've got more to do to protect them- this is easy to learn, and I highly recommend it.
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes | 0 No
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Mad Rock Con-flict Strap Climbing Shoe
June 5, 2009
About the same. I had them both in the same size, and wouldn't recommend any up-or-down sizing.
Expect the conflict to be a little less comfortable at first, as it is more built-up around the toebox and will break in a bit more slowly.
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes | 0 No
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