These gloves have maximum dexterity for the warmth. I've found them to have a much more form fitting cut than gloves by other manufacturers. If you don't have super meaty paws, they will probably do the same for you.

This boot has been very good to me. I also had a problem with them squeaking, but used a silicone spray lube to fix that. My only issue is that I am now getting interested in more difficult descents and would like a stiffer, four-buckle boot.

I wanted to try out leashless climbing with a tool that I could still plunge and add a leash to for more alpine conditions. This tool is great for this purpose. However, I was amazed at how easy leashless climbing is with these tools. The trigger and pinky pommel make holding on to the tool a piece of cake. The only drawback is that different thicknesses of glove require you to move the finger trigger. Also, the pinky pommel won't easily accommodate a super-thick glove. This isn't a problem for me since I like to climb in the thinnest glove I can and then switch to a mitten for belaying.

I've been wearing light colored long sleeve underwear tops for a couple of years during much of my summer climbing, especially at higher altitudes. I've found that they are no warmer than wearing a short sleeve since they block the sun. They also protect the arms from abrasion.

The silk weight crew is tops for this purpose. Plus the pattern makes it look more like an outerwear shirt.

I didn't like how these fit. They do not fit like the excellent lightweight boxer brief. Instead these have far too much rise built into them. It seemed to me that the waist band wanted to be above my belly, which will likely feel weird to most men.

Although I will admit that they may not work well with twin tip skis (I don't know), they work very well with traditional tails. I think that the negative responses here are due to user error.

Adjust the skin so that the cam buckle puts tension on the skin and stays in place. There is a trick to putting them on that is very important. First, put the tip loop of the skin over the tip of the ski. Without allowing the glue on the skin to contact the ski base, straighten the skin and, while applying tension to the skin to keep the glue away from the base, attach the tail clip. Finally, run your hand over the length of the skin to ensure that the glue engages the bottom of the ski. This is very quick and is actually easier than applying a traditional skin.

If you apply the skin to the ski starting at the tip before you attach the cam buckle, you'll end up with a lot of tension on the last 3 inches of the skin instead of the whole skin. Don't do that!

This is a fairly wide ski, but is fairly light and still nimble enough for tight terrain. I've been skiing this as an AT ski with Frischi Freerides. I found that it carves up the piste very well and holds an edge quite well on hardpack.

You have to remember, though, this ski is not intended to carve turns on the groomers all day. It shines in variable conditions and floats in the powder. It is also fairly stable at higher speeds with a nice, damp ride.

The factory tune is a little overly grippy, though, so remember to detune a little after you buy.

These bindings are excellent. They actually have four touring positions. One flat and three riser positions. You have to lift your heel and push the post back down to get to the first riser position.

They are definitely heavier than a pair of dynafit bindings (which are also great for their intended purpose) but will accommodate a downhill boot. They are just a little heavier than the explore/express, but come with brakes so if you want brakes, get these since it'll cost less, give you a more durable binding and only weigh 3 oz more.

This boot is a good all-around backcountry boot. It has enough support to easily power fairly large skis, but retains enough flexibility to tour and walk comfortably. I've even snowboarded with them in plate bindings and they felt fine. It isn't the burliest boot or the lightest, but if you can only have one boot and you tour for your turns at least some of the time, it is a good choice. As always, though, fit is king with boots so make sure they fit as well or better than the competition.

This harness works for everything. Rock, Ice or glacier, this harness will have you covered. The adjustable leg loops are nice and the extra length in the waist webbing is gives it a large fit range.

The only problem with it is that the hole in the leg loops and waist belt through which the belay loop passes is a little small, making it difficult to tie into the rope especially if you are using double ropes and have a chicken sling girth hitched to it.

Dyneema is a different name brand for Spectra -- same stuff. The key to these slings' narrow dimension is in the way they are sewn together. They are great for most applications except where you might be worried about excessive wear.

These crampons are awesome. They are lighter than the bionics and have longer secondary points.

The mono is the way to go if you like steep ice or mixed. With the mono, these crampons fit boots with some rocker built into the sole the best. My Trango Extremes have a flat sole and the front point really pushes into the front of the sole for a less than perfect fit. Most boots have more rocker than Trangos.

I'm not sure why anyone thinks 2-3 screws is the limit.

I normally rack 5 BD turbo express screws on each clipper. You have to put each screw into the clipper facing the same way and they stack fairly close together. Other screws may not stack as well, but then that might be a good reason to use the BDs.

The only downside with these is that getting to a screw which is not on top is not easy. It is much easier to put your short screws on a third clipper.

This is far superior to using a standard biner on a gear loop since it makes one handed racking and unracking very easy.