April 11, 2012
Another video of deep deep pow at Valhalla Mountain Touring in British Columbia, full conditions in the Axiom coat!
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April 14, 2011
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April 14, 2011
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April 14, 2011
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April 14, 2011
Holding tough on the rough sandstone adventure climbing. The Silverback, 5.12+
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April 14, 2011
Forever Young Couloir at Roger's Pass, BC
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January 28, 2009
User error lead to blowing this cam out of the crux of moonlight buttress. Make sure you see your placements and don't stuff them in blind and pumped!!!!!
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January 28, 2009
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January 28, 2009
Keeping my hands warm in the deep pow
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January 27, 2009
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January 27, 2009
Pitch 12 of 20 on a first free ascent in the adamant mountains of British Columbia
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January 27, 2009
Showing the good dexterity of the gravitator gloves.
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January 26, 2009
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January 26, 2009
Lined up for 2000' of powder bliss with my new Karhu Storms
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January 26, 2009
Me trying my hardest to plug some cams in on Slice and Dice (12c) in Indian Creek
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May 25, 2011
I have loads of friends who use this harness multipitch climbing/trad climbing and it works just fine for them. In the long run you are carrying less weight and bulk up long routes, so you should be better off right? Alpinists like it because you are carrying less weight and bulk, and you don't often hang in it much alpine climbing.
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April 27, 2011
You are a big skier for a lightweight manaslu, I would not ski a 178 for sure, and they do not have much rocker at all. Early rise tip. I think the waybacks have a touch more rocker, and they are also a touch burlier ski. I would go with the added length of the 181 wayback and slightly stronger construction.
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September 23, 2010
Wow, these things will slay the crud at the resort...with metal and rocker they are crud busters. Plenty sturdy enough.
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March 2, 2010
I have found the power cams to be way more reliable and durable than the master cams after a few months of use. However, if you are looking to supplement your rack in the small sizes, I really, really like the C3s by BD, durable and fit in some funky spots.
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March 2, 2010
I find the BD ones to be a bit burlier as they have a some more nylon in the mix. Try those out.
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March 2, 2010
They are too skinny and they only cover the area under your foot, hence the name 'kicker' skin. A fat ski is kind of the wrong application for this type of skin.
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March 2, 2010
125mm nylon skin with the STS tail kit will be durable and wide enough for your needs.
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March 2, 2010
I think the Nepal Evos are a bit warmer, but not too much
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February 11, 2010
Get the 120, they will go down to that width pretty quickly.
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February 3, 2010
It is a back pack, so of course it has shoulder straps. It has a chest strap to hold the shoulder straps on as well as a waist belt. It is designed to fit tight and close so you barely notice it when 'going fast or hucking clifs'
Helpful Votes: 1 Yes
February 3, 2010
The beauty of this ski is to pair it with light bindings like a dynafit and go far and fast, not with a free ride. Don't be fooled, 125mm at the tip gives you a bit of float in all but the deepest days. Bigger under the waist means more weight to carry. Don't get me wrong, I have skis that are 108, 96 and 88 underfoot...its all about the quiver!
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February 3, 2010
I mounted mine on the boot center and have found they ski great both on groomers and in the backcountry. The tail looks short because you are not used to seeing flat tails anymore! K2's dedication to making a great touring ski with a flat notched tail looks different than the current raised tails. Plus, with a bit of tip rocker, the boot center line might be just a tad bit back on the ski.
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January 14, 2010
yup, I think so, as the pair runs at least 9-10lbs, and that looks right.
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January 13, 2010
No, you need AT or alpine boots. The flex/bellow and the bill will not allow them to fit and work correctly in an alpine style binding.
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January 13, 2010
yes, but commonly people tie off supertape or similar small flat webbing in a way that helps pull the hook down and into the rock.
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January 13, 2010
You can go into ski mode with out taking the bindings off, but to go into touring mode most people must remove the ski.
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January 12, 2010
Master cams, sort of, but for your money, way better spent on BD camalots, way more durable for sure.
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January 12, 2010
Get the 125mm x 192cm length. That way they are definitely long and wide enough. You will be trimming them to custom fit anyway, and the price is the same as the 125 x 186cm.
Helpful Votes: 1 Yes
January 12, 2010
I would say get the 110s, but I might also recommend NOT going with a pure mohair if you are just going straight up and down, get a nylon mix or pure nylon.
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January 8, 2010
I would go with the 125 for sure. The price difference is minimal and the more coverage the better.
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January 8, 2010
Personally, I always custom trim my skins for maximum coverage. If you got 110mm skins, that would leave approx 2cm of base showing near your tips and .5cm near your tails. If you have minimal base showing you will slip on the skin track less. I think the cost savings for 125 vs. 110 is non existent so I say get 125mm and have the wall to wall carpet.
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January 8, 2010
The warmest is by far the altitude mitt...they are burly, and don't forget that OR has a lifetime guarantee on their products!
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January 8, 2010
Tough one...do you know anyone with a down coat? Try it out and see, but I know lots of people who use synthetic fill blankets/sleeping bags for this reason. The OR primaloft/synthetic coats are warm and toasty as well!
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January 7, 2010
Well it is just a smaller blade, so when you need to move snow, like in an avalanche accident, you are going to move less snow with each shovel stroke...you decide if the weight and size of the 7 is worth it! I think so!
Helpful Votes: 2 Yes
January 7, 2010
I am not sure, but you can get the same blade with a t-grip instead of a d-grip and it fits alot better in many packs!
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January 7, 2010
No, I do not think so. A beefy aluminum shovel is always better for digging in avalanche debris. Lexan shovels deflect and have a difficult time punching through hard debris.
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January 7, 2010
You would have to treat them, they are a bit sponge like. If the sole is new, it has a little bit of traction, but worn out it is only good on rock. You can send shoes like this to some where like rock and resole out of Boulder, CO, and it would be probably be in the neighborhood of 50 bucks for a resole.
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January 7, 2010
Well, the K2 launcher would ski a bit softer than these metal bad boys...I am going with the 181s and am 6'2" and 180lbs,and everyone at K2 said I should go with the 181s, that 188s are a LOT of ski. But, I do ski a lot of deep powder in tight trees, and tour 99.9% of the time so I don't mind a bit shorter and lighter!
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December 10, 2009
hmmm, you could bend them out, but not that recommended. It will work but, you will have less contact with the snow surface...but 3mm ain't much at all. They come with them, so you can try, and if it doesn't work, get the wider brakes!
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December 3, 2009
Thats per ski for sure, around 8lbs per pair.
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December 3, 2009
The more the better, you can see where it has been applied to the skin as you rub it on. Preventative maintenance is key, i.e. put it on BEFORE your skins get wet not after. And press hard. Going against the plush doesn't work super well, but desperate times call for desperate measures...
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December 3, 2009
Yes, the clip attachment will go over the twin tip. You should get your skins to about 5mm with in the width of the widest part of the ski and then trim them to size.
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November 23, 2009
Get skins that are 5mm narrower than the tip width on your skis and trim them to size. The Black Diamond skins are great.
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November 23, 2009
Definitely not, just a huge heavy ski...consider the coombacks for a little bit lighter backcountry set up.
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November 23, 2009
I was extremely unimpressed when i skied these bindings last winter. Blowouts on hard turns, way to sloppy on the downhill, and I even broke the binding off of the mounting plate. Overall, way too complex of a binding, hard to compete with dynafit-dynafit has been making their bindings for almost 20 years, and I think G3 needs a few more before they come close. My advice is to stick with the tried and true on this one, and save weight for touring!
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November 23, 2009
You should upload a photo here, and then we can see them and suggest something for you!
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November 23, 2009
Nepal's will climb rock WAY better than Nuptses.
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November 23, 2009
This boot is not warm enough for over 8000m peaks, I would recommend something burlier and warmer...your feet are important!
Helpful Votes: 2 Yes
November 23, 2009
The team fiveten is a thinner sole shoe, so it won't last a super long time either. I have some optimus primes and they have lasted me as long as I could have hoped for. The evolv rubber is sticky, but soft, so that is why they wear out fast.
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November 13, 2009
You might want to go to the bdel.com website for any technical specs like that. It is the same size roughly as most of the pear biners on the market.
Helpful Votes: 1 Yes
November 13, 2009
You only put these on when you need to use them for hard snow and ice, otherwise you store them in your pack.
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November 12, 2009
I am pretty sure that every piece of gear that comes out of Europe is UIAA/CE approved.
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November 12, 2009
I would probably go with a Petzl OK locking biner. The classic oval shape helps everything sit right when weighting and unweighting.
Helpful Votes: 1 Yes
November 6, 2009
My wife has this coat and she is about 5'7" and 135lbs. She wears the small. it is not a long coat, but normal length cut. She loves it, SUPER warm, and it has a drawstring on the waist, so snow would not go up it.
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November 6, 2009
I wear a large in almost everything and I think this jacket runs true to size. I have a large and it fits perfect. I am 6'2" and 180lbs, athletic build. Hope that helps
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November 5, 2009
Yup, you can just crank em nice and tight with the laces for a more precision fit right down to the toe.
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November 5, 2009
Are you using these for just getting around town? Any boot with a stiff lugged sole like this will do OK, but you really want traction spikes or something similar you can just throw over the top of your shoes/boots. No boot sole does well on black ice!
Helpful Votes: 1 Yes
October 14, 2009
you have to own the carbon fiber ski poles and then get the whippet adapter piece. a nice light set up, you can't go wrong. You can order a lower shaft from BD directly I am sure. I know the retail store in SLC sells replacement lower shafts individually, so that could be your answer.
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October 10, 2009
Apples and oranges in my mind...this binding is great for 'side' country pursuits, or mostly downhill ski touring. It is very heavy and not field repairable. The dynafit is light, simple and bomber. If you are going to be doing mostly ski touring do NOT hesitate at getting the dynafit!
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October 1, 2009
The waist is the most important part, so if the legs are a little loose no big deal. I find that alot with harnesses, the waist fits well but legs don't or vice versa...I assume you adjusted the leg loops fully?
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October 1, 2009
I am a large 13 or 13.5 and I find the 47.5s fit me perfect. If you find a US 13 fits you well (they are almost always too tight for me) than a 47 sportiva should fit great. You can always send em back to backcountry no problem.
Helpful Votes: 2 Yes
September 28, 2009
the patterns are pre drilled for dynafits and do NOT fit other bindings. Besides, why would you want to use any other binding?
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September 28, 2009
From the petzl.com site:
Fits boots sizes 35 to 45 with M linking bar (included)
Optional L linking bar fits boots sizes 40 to 50 (T20850)
So not quite the 13's unless you get the linking bar. I didn't look for it but now you know what to search.
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September 27, 2009
It is easy to change where it will work and not, but I am pretty sure that it works world wide, just the wireless frequency to change features works on different frequencies. In terms of the signal it transmits and receives, that is no doubt, 100% the same across the globe.
Helpful Votes: 3 Yes
September 27, 2009
No shoe does really well on ice. I thick and beefy vibram sole boot will do okay, but otherwise get some spikes that go on over any shoe to run around on the ice! Sticky rubber isn't sticky on ice!
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September 26, 2009
I think a kilowatt will be better in the bumps due to its less girth. The Verdict will feel huge in the bumps!
Helpful Votes: 1 Yes
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September 26, 2009
It is water resistant not waterproof. Think schoeller/soft shell gaiter. Great for keeping out mud and snow, but full on rain I would go with a goretex gaiter.
Helpful Votes: 1 Yes
September 24, 2009
Definitely more appropriate for moguls as they are a skinnier ski-fat skis are tough in the bumps, think softer and skinnier for quicker transitions from turn to turn. It is less ski then the verdict but not too sure on the stiffness, sorry!
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September 24, 2009
Definitely, you can swap out the AT sole blocks for the alpine ones and then they will perform even better.
Helpful Votes: 1 Yes
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September 21, 2009
The entire K2 mountain/telemark line is revamped, renamed and redone and the 'old' models now are slightly redone and renamed, so there should be an equivalent out there in the new stock. I really like the Karhu Storm BC for their width and light weight and durability. Try them in a 177cm at your weight.
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September 21, 2009
With those 2 boots I wouldn't worry..I had to change a shell size going from a spirit 4 to a F3 but those are very different boots.
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September 21, 2009
No, NOT possible. It is an 8.2mm rope NOT rated to take individual falls, only rated to hold falls in conjunction with another rope.
Helpful Votes: 4 Yes
September 21, 2009
Yes, they will work with these...I do not know the difference between the two, sorry!
Helpful Votes: 2 Yes
September 17, 2009
It is a totally different fitting type of shoe and company, so sizes don't usually cross the brands very well. For example I wear a 12.5 US in five ten and a 46 in Sportiva. But the solutions are a very aggressie downturned shoe.
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
September 14, 2009
You can see them sticking out in in between the two sets of gear loops. I have one (its a prototype so I don't know if its different) and there are two more behind the second set of gear loops.
Helpful Votes: 1 Yes
September 14, 2009
I think these things are more than adequate for what you are looking for...in fact I know folks who run around on glaciers to get to rock climbs with them, so perfect for you to throw in the pack for emergencies. They are aluminum, so if you run around on too much rock, then they will wear down pretty quickly.
Helpful Votes: 2 Yes
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September 13, 2009
Well, I have had an Arc Teryx one for a bit now, got it in March, and it is ready for the trash...granted I have worn it about 100 days since March, as I am a full time climber and guide, but I loved it. So comfy and packs smaller than the BD's...BUT I think the BD's are a bit more durable as my wife has had one the same amount of time and it is still good to go.
Helpful Votes: 2 Yes
September 13, 2009
You hit the nail on the head...no hooded gate! I personally can't stand non-hooded biners, yes they do open on the rock, like at anchor, etc...I run mostly Oz, and some Xenons. I really like them both. I think I got xenon's because Oz were out of stock once.
Helpful Votes: 1 Yes
September 12, 2009
http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/shop/mountain/pac
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
September 12, 2009
The bars go really short, so I believe they should fit...you can always check out BD's website direct for the answer or call them. \
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
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September 10, 2009
I always say to go with a width that it is just about 5 to 10 mm less than your tip width, so 120 to 130 mm is what I recommend, as you want maximum coverage of your bases to prevent back sliding. i don't know if the length will work, but easy to tell right as soon as you get them and send em back to bc.com if they don't work!
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September 9, 2009
There are a few select climbs that stoppers will work in the desert, so not entirely useless out there, hexes will work, ala the old guard, but cams are your best bet!
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
September 2, 2009
Its a warm coat (I have the men's version) but it is not as insulating as the Refuge, which has a bit more loft being a down coat and not a synthetic.
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July 3, 2009
This binding system would work really well for any type of boot out there. Otherwise you would have to go with a 'newmatic' style binding, which is a front strap-on style and a heel lever.
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
July 3, 2009
This binding system would work really well for any type of boot out there. Otherwise you would have to go with a 'newmatic' style binding, which is a front strap-on style and a heel lever.
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
July 3, 2009
When you are climbing are you just top roping or leading too? If you are just top roping then go for a static rope, but then you can not EVER lead on it! Otherwise get a dynamic rope, just remember that canyoneering is REALLY hard on ropes!
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
July 3, 2009
Well, you have to fit them tight for performance, and then I would only use them on steep, really steep routes because of the down turned toe. Lots of people suck up the tight shoe feelings for performance on the steep hard projects...
Helpful Votes: 2 Yes
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July 3, 2009
This is a great device for a beginner, easy to use and grips skinny ropes well.
Helpful Votes: 2 Yes
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June 25, 2009
I was just guiding Rainier and a fellow guide was using this boot. For earlier, snowier and wetter season, it is a great boot. In later season with drier and warmer conditions, it might be too much. But if you have cold feet than go for.
Helpful Votes: 2 Yes
June 19, 2009
DMM bought the molds for these nuts from HB a few years back...sizes 1 - 6 were the brass offsets, and I don't see them any where on line on bc.com. You could supplement these nuts with the peenuts, sizes 1-5, and you would be well set up for any flaring crack or pin scar.
Helpful Votes: 1 Yes
June 16, 2009
You can also get the plain old Storm's and they have a bit more beef to them if you are worried. The BC's have such a great even flex with their wood core, that they would be an easy ski to shred on at your stage. But at your size, you might find them too soft, especially for resort pounding. Go with the storms!
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
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June 2, 2009
I found that I wore a 13 in evolvs and a 12.5 in galileos...but that was 2 years ago when i last got some galileos so I don't know if the sizes have changed!
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June 1, 2009
Maybe go a half a size smaller for the 5.10s. They will stretch a little bit more than the Evolvs
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
May 27, 2009
This tent is not going to keep you dry in a rainstorm. Cold and snowy, yup, light drizzle, sure, down pour, no way. You need a bibler for a single wall or go with an ultralight double wall, then they ventilate better, keeping you and your down dry from the rain or condensation.
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
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May 27, 2009
This tent is not going to keep you dry in a rainstorm. Cold and snowy, yup, light drizzle, sure, down pour, no way. You need a bibler for a single wall or go with an ultralight double wall, then they ventilate better, keeping you and your down dry from the rain or condensation.
Helpful Votes: 1 Yes
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May 19, 2009
I agree, I use the velcros as a higher end trad and sport shoe, but I fit them a bit to tight for an all day shoe. They get pretty soft after break in, so they can be quite sensitive, and thus you can smear pretty well with them.
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
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May 16, 2009
If you are planning on doing alot of walking, I would look at a lighter boot for sure! These will ski great, but you will pay the price with an extra pound per foot! The liner is thermo-moldable.
Helpful Votes: 1 Yes
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May 16, 2009
No removable sole, they will fit the Duke!
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
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May 16, 2009
Size and weight of the Arc'teryx are UNBEATABLE. Especially if you are doing a trekking peak, you won't be hanging in it much, so who cares about durability! The petzl will last longer, and is totally fine. The Arc'Teryx is super comfy though too so don't worry!
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
April 28, 2009
They will work with those boots, BUT those boots will not serve you well for extended time on snow and ice. No stiff shank and insulation will equal cold and tired feet.
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
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April 27, 2009
Step in crampons will work, but front pointing on firm neve/ice will be tiring with the boot flex. I have not cramponed in mine, but boot packing and scrambling was fine, just expect a little flex, just like tele boots.
Helpful Votes: 1 Yes
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April 27, 2009
You should get skins to just about 0-10mm NARROWER than the tip width of your ski. THat way when you trim them they are edge to edge fit providing the best performance. Length can be done to fit easily as well.
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
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April 27, 2009
Call up your local cobbler. I think they might be able to help you out if it is just a little more room you need. I have done this before, and it works like magic.
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
April 27, 2009
For ski mountaineering and ski touring I almost ALWAYS prefer a shorter axe. The times you are using it are less frequent and it is almost always when you are on steep terrain, so the need for a longer axe is reduced. Go with a 50-55cm axe. I am 6'2" and I would use a 50, just because then it is lighter and stores in less space when you are travelling.
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
April 27, 2009
Its goretex, so you can machine wash just like any other gore tex fabric (look at your coat labels!)
Helpful Votes: 1 Yes
April 27, 2009
Hmmmm, I dunno. I think the spikes at the bottom of the tools might be slightly different. Try emailing Black Diamond directly they would know!
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
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April 21, 2009
You won't be in cold places so this boot would be adequate and it is lighter and easier to walk in than the evo. Great all around boot for this stuff, BUT extended time on the snow and ice will be a little cold. For example I guided Rainier in them once, and it was just a little too cold of a boot for being on the ice all day, even in summer.
Helpful Votes: 1 Yes
April 20, 2009
It will work no problem.
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
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April 20, 2009
I have a pair of these and absolutely love them. Fat and damp for the powder and crud, but they carve amazingly well. Even when my friend, a sales rep for BD skied them, he was blown away!
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April 20, 2009
Nothing wrong with removing it, but then you might as well by the Alpine Bod!
Helpful Votes: 1 Yes
April 20, 2009
They are built on the same last and leather, so I assume almost identical.
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April 19, 2009
It is 29.0 and 29.5 that are the exact same shell size. The liner is different sizes, but once you thermo form it doesn't matter much. Scarpa is the half size adn the full size UP.
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April 19, 2009
I have found my scarpa boots to be close to true to size from model to model. You can always blow out the toe plastic a bit if they are a touch small, but you can never make them shorter if they are too long! Backcountry.com's return policy is great so just go for it, try em on at home and exchange for another size if it doesn't work.
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
April 19, 2009
You can do it, google it, there is some good beta on line...but be careful, it is easy to cook them too long and ruin them. Plus, if you spend the 40 bucks at a boot fitter they might really trick it out to fit just right.
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April 17, 2009
I have found sportivas to run big for their size. i.e. I wear a 13.5 street shoe US and have worn a 46 katana.
I also don't think this is a great indoor bouldering shoe! Get an aggressive slipper...
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April 16, 2009
You can go light with aluminum neve crampons from BD, but they won't last for too much rock walking and will not stick well in hard ice. Great for corn/neve/frozen snow though. Otherwise the BD contacts are a great crampon for all around use.
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April 16, 2009
Well, you have a few different climates going on in your list there. Shasta and Whitney are much warmer places than Rainier and Aconcaqua. I would recommend a lighter weight boot for the first two and a heavier, warmer boot for the other two. A la sportiva trango s would see you through the first two, but then go for a warmer climbing boot, not this one!
Helpful Votes: 1 Yes
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April 16, 2009
I think they are only making them in the terra color now.
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April 16, 2009
Buy 4 bent and 4 straight. The bent are easier to clip the rope to, and the straight go on the bolt.
Helpful Votes: 1 Yes
April 15, 2009
You can bend and deform these from regular big wall use. Hammering them in and taking them out will definitely put some wear and tear on them, but they will stand up to alot.
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
April 15, 2009
It is actually just a back up so you don't drop it while trying to put it on the rope. The Ti-bloc by petzl has the same thing, but you have to tie your own cord into it.
Helpful Votes: 1 Yes
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April 10, 2009
If you are just walking up snowfields with it, then the raven is more than enough axe. You would want to use this one for slightly more technical adventures, and having it a little bit shorter would be more beneficial. You already have a 65, so get yourself a quiver going and go with the 57.
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
April 10, 2009
I would wear the same size vmile as galileo, and the vmiles were way comfier. Don't forget that the galileo is synthetic, so it doesn't stretch like the vmile does, which is a TON.
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April 8, 2009
If you mount them full tight to the front of the 25, you might be able to squeak in the 27 shells when you fully open up the heel piece all the way back. you can get about 2-3 sizes on a comfort binding.
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April 8, 2009
I am almost 200lbs and ski dynafits in the backcountry tons. The whole point is that you want these to release-either you are in a fall and going to get hurt or triggering an avalanche. Putting your DIN on the max is never a good idea, just tightens the spring too much and they never work 100% correctly at that full cranking. Back em off to 8, and see how that goes, but stay off the full cranking!
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April 1, 2009
I have the T6 shovel with the T handle not the D handle and it fits into my covert just fine.
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April 1, 2009
They have been out for a year or two. I have the model before it and they are still kicking it. Sportiva makes a good durable boot. I wouldn't wear these down to really cold temps as they are not the warmest boot in the world but good for moderate ice climbing temps. Below about 10-15 F I think they might get a little cold. Flexibility should not be a problem at any temp.
Helpful Votes: 2 Yes
March 31, 2009
No inserts, and not rockered.
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
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March 27, 2009
This will hold any normal person that can get themselves up a cliff. I am around 190lbs and have used it no problem. Width, I dunno, but wide enough for a big guy like me. It is not designed to be the luxurious hang out, just ease the pain of hanging belays!
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
March 27, 2009
No!!!!! Angus is wrong on this one. Get at least 110mm width skins and trim them to fit. Alway get wall to wall skins, it makes so so so much difference when skinning on new or old tracks.
Helpful Votes: 1 Yes
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March 27, 2009
The sound is just the valve fluttering, very common
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
March 27, 2009
I believe you need to pull off the heel post in order to slide them on. It is not that complicated and a shop could probably do it in 10 minutes if you don't feel comfortable doing it.
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March 27, 2009
if you like shorter quick turns go with the 180s, otherwise your size would warrant the 190, but that is alot of ski.
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March 24, 2009
Havoc skis a bit stiff, not as soft and even flexing in the pow for sure.
The mt bakers will ski the pow better for someone your size. I wold also recommend the Karhu Storm BCs...
Helpful Votes: 2 Yes
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March 24, 2009
The joule is the woman's version of the kilowatt, therefore it is constructed with a softer flex for smaller/ligher weight people. The tail is just a wee bit softer on the joule than the kilowatt.
Go for the joule for a backcountry/pure powder ski, kilowatt for mixed front/back. Remember though, your friends will make fun of you for having a women's ski ;)
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March 24, 2009
This won't happen every time...you just have to remember that the signals getting transmitted are going in 2 directions, 180 degrees opposite (remember flux lines?) So if you followed the signal going away eventually it would start to go down and bring you back in to the beacon the long way. Just look at your numbers, and if they are going up, turn around! Make them go down! keep practicing!
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
March 24, 2009
Ummm...I don't know what that last answer was about, but, most of the ski packs use the ice axe loop to put the tails through and than the top part clips in to the straps on the upper part of the pack. It definitely does the diagonal ski carry.
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
March 24, 2009
Careful there...Angus is steering you a little wrong. I guide ski touring about 80 days a season, and consistently one of the biggest problems people have is NOT having skins trimmed to fit their skis. You will suffer. If you are the 3rd person through on a skin track or greater you WILL slip. Get the 110s or 120s and trim them to fit with just one extra edge width of base exposed. You don't need more than that.
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March 24, 2009
Sabertooth for sure. Cyborgs style of front points will suffer dramatically on Elbrus and Rainier.
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March 24, 2009
Definitely not the cyborg. Vertical front points vs. horizontal front points will not serve you well on neve and other firm snow conditions. You want these things to get purchase in the softer mediums. For the harder mediums of ice, and the steep and technical the sabretooths actually climb really, really well. Its only on chandeliered ice and mixed climbing that you will notice a big difference of performance. Don't let Angus steer you wrong here!
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March 23, 2009
Hey skinny guy, this might be a bit too much of a stick for you at that length. Plus, for adirondack tree bashing, I would go short and fat...
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March 23, 2009
Rent AT gear, especially if you have been skiing for years. Much easier learning curve.
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March 23, 2009
These are big, warm boots! Your feet will be hot, heavy and tired in summer with these. Go lighter like the Trango or Trango S...
Helpful Votes: 2 Yes
March 23, 2009
Perfect for that...I like using strap on crampons for the general mountaineering stuff.
Helpful Votes: 2 Yes
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March 20, 2009
It is a good beacon, bombproof and long range, BUT it is not the easiest to use on the market, and requires more training and practice than some others.
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March 20, 2009
I think it is more comfortable than your momentum, but you can always get a super small belay/butt seat from yates and then hang in luxury at belays.
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
March 20, 2009
It would work no problem on all of those objectives. You can even get the slimmed down one, that has no plastic on the second set of gear loops so you can wear a big pack more comfortably.
Helpful Votes: 1 Yes
March 20, 2009
meh-toll-e-us
Helpful Votes: 1 Yes
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March 18, 2009
Verdicts are a way better ski than the kilowatts, I know quite a few women that ride them. I don't know why this Michael guys is so into the kilowatts, everyone I know on them is not overly impressed by them. But tons of folks love verdicts.
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March 18, 2009
Karhu Storms rock, way more even skiing then stiff tail Kilowatts
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March 18, 2009
fully street wearable. i dunno what you mean by flat. There is a tread pattern on the bottom, they are not smooth like climbing shoes. I find I can wear a 13 in evolv's, when I wear a 13.5 in most other shoes. You can always send em back to backcountry!
Helpful Votes: 1 Yes
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March 14, 2009
I think the rapid transits are a weird ski, being asymetric and all...the havocs are an all time classic, love those boards.
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March 14, 2009
La Sportiva trango boots are awesome, check those out
Helpful Votes: 1 Yes
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March 14, 2009
Should work no problem, but you can get a full front bail crampon to work on those boots as well.
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March 14, 2009
Guru is way to skinny and small. You will probably have more fun on a stigma, wider tip will keep you turning in the snot!
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March 14, 2009
If you are touring all the time, the dynafit is the ULTIMATE backcountry binding. They work ok for the ski hill, but for backcountry, nothing is superior. They have a 1 day learning curve, then you are all set.
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March 2, 2009
Its a warm boot, but lots of folks go with double plastics on Denali, its a cold place, and nice to be able to keep your boot liners in your sleeping bag at night!
Helpful Votes: 2 Yes
March 2, 2009
I am pretty sure they do...every shoe I have owned from scarpa has removable insoles
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March 2, 2009
I have used these as a high end sport/trad shoe. Depending on how you size them will ultimately determine if they will be able to work all day. Ideally you want a shoe that will not be a cramped or aggressive style of fit, i.e. downturned toes, so that way you can wear them all day. All day comfort means in the end that you will be sacrificing performance no matter what.
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March 2, 2009
Looks like they thread through the head and tie around the shaft, so I think they fit any tool.
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March 2, 2009
Definitely 185s, but you are going to find these skis soft onthe groomers at top speed.
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March 1, 2009
Yes, alpine boots should work just fine. But you will suffer in them on the way up, as they are heavier and have no walk mode.
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February 28, 2009
The contact strap crampons would work fine on almost all 3/4 to full shank boots. I regularly use strap on crampons for general mountaineering routes like the one you mentioned.
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February 28, 2009
The atomics are good skis, this one has a twin tip, which is a bit annoying for backcountry skiing (ski anchors, skins staying on, etc...). If you want an Atomic, try the Kailas, or I really LOVE my Karhu's, like the Storm or the Storm BC. The karhus have wood core's versus atomics foam cores, a bit more durable and dependable.
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February 28, 2009
It will be close, but I have definitely just pulled out the brakes a bit so that they don't hit the ski, you can just bend them out with little consequence.
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February 27, 2009
I have found that all of my evolv shoes run pretty close to size with each other
Helpful Votes: 1 Yes
February 27, 2009
Not that silly, but a 3 lb binding is going to add a ton of weight to this light ski...
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February 27, 2009
It doesn't look like they have any left in your size range...but you can just get the sts skins in a 120mm and cut them to size, and sew the tip loop on. Then they are practically the same things.
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February 26, 2009
I know there used to be, but I can't remember seeing one recently...
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February 26, 2009
177 is 1710g/ski. So I think its 7.5lbs for a 177 for the pair.
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February 25, 2009
They should work fine as long as your boot sole length isn't too long for the crampons...I have a huge boot (30.5 mondo) and it still fit in the last notch of most crampons.
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
February 25, 2009
I would say that they are just at home on steep sport and bouldering...kinda similar in my mind. They are just a bit more aggressive, i.e. downturned then the Vipers were.
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February 25, 2009
They definitely don't sell them individually!
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February 25, 2009
It's fairly effective, but the Outlaw might work a little better.
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February 25, 2009
Any bailed/step in cramon will be great with this boot, such as the black diamond contact. Just don't get ones with vertical aggressive front points.
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February 25, 2009
I would probably go more with the evos...
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February 25, 2009
Check the toe height on the binding...if the toe of the binding is coming down on the boot too much, then your rubber sole will definitely NOT be able to release because of too much friction
Helpful Votes: 1 Yes
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February 23, 2009
Good choice then, because it is synthetic so it doesn't stretch much at all. I like this shoe for all around use...I size it a bit bigger for trad/crack climbing.
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
February 13, 2009
You trim them to fit, so i think that would cover almost any length out there except for old school DH boards.
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February 13, 2009
I have found sportiva's to run pretty close to size from model to model. I use the same size in every sportiva shoe I have...you could try a 46.5 as well.
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February 13, 2009
I can't find those crampons on the site but...If they have a front bail (the wire that goes over the toe) they will NOT work. If they have a plastic toe piece then they WILL work.
Helpful Votes: 1 Yes
February 12, 2009
110mm wide 161-170 length would be my advice
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February 11, 2009
The Mammut Infinity is way more rope than you need as a beginning top-roper. You can get a decent rope for that purpose (10.2mm-11mm, doesn't have to be dry-treated) for <$130. For the occasional ice climb, the same rope with dry-treatment (add~$20) will work for both. But, the right rope for a beginning top-roper isn't the best rope to drag up an alpine route. If I were in your shoes, I would probably buy a new dry rope for top-roping/occasional ice climb, but hold on to the Mammut Infinity just in case you find your climbing interests change.To add to that, I personally don't see the point in getting a rope bigger than 10.5mm these days, just too much rope to drag around for anything! Most 10-10.5mm ropes are way burly enough. Dry treatment not only makes it better for alpine climbing, but it actually adds to durability of rope as well.
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February 11, 2009
I bet the strike could be retroed onto any tool really, it attaches via a hose clamp type device. What I used to do to add a bump onto an old tool was take a BD ice clipper (the plastic carabiner) and cut it up to the proper shape and use athletic tape to attach it. I have had a pair of tools with that on it for years now.
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February 11, 2009
Mountaineering boots are usually a bit stiffer having a 3/4 or full length shank, and are also crampon compatabile in some way. Generally speaking mountaineering boots are a wee bit burlier than hiking boots, and hence a little bit heavier. A good compromise would be a La Sportiva Trango S.
Helpful Votes: 2 Yes
February 11, 2009
No, they would not be just as waterproof and warm. They will be really waterproof and warm, but nothing matches plastic boots for that!
Helpful Votes: 3 Yes
February 10, 2009
The strength ratings are on this page...24kn major axis, 9 minor axis, 10 open gate.1 kn is roughly 220lbs of force, so I don't think you will ever break this or any full strength carabiner sold on this website if used properly.
Helpful Votes: 2 Yes
February 10, 2009
You mean like up a trail or scrambling with out your skis? They will work, but at over 8.5 lbs and tall and stiff, you will pay the price. If you want a boot to ski and hike in, look at something a wee bit lighter, or just get a pair of hiking boots!
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February 10, 2009
You could also check out the Karhu Spire or storm BC, or the dynafit Manaslu for other lighterweight powder skis.
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February 10, 2009
Probably go with the 173-180s in 120mm width. But you could also get a normal pair of sts glidelites and not bee worried about length as you can cut them to size.
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February 10, 2009
I would probably go with the fist choice of 173-180.
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February 10, 2009
This skin will work fine. I would say get a 120mm, then you have less to trim on the tip, but it is more important for you to be wall to wall with skins in the middle of the ski. The black diamond STS glidelites are also a great skin that would work well with a twin tip.
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February 5, 2009
Whoa, now that is a big question to answer. First off, I would check out beaconreviews.com for huge indepth reviews on beacons and comparisons.Personally I use a pulse. It just has a great set of options that I like. Easily programmable and updateable, good range, fast and easy multiple searches, and when all else fails I can revert to analog mode. I only used a prototype S1, but in theory it seemed really slick, but wasn't working 100% effectively for me in the field, but that was a prototype. Check out beaconreviews.com!
Helpful Votes: 1 Yes
February 5, 2009
I know I can cut wood with my bone saw, which is a really nice thing to have in the backcountry - emergencies like splints or starting fires, etc...I am not sure if this saw cuts wood.I can also attach my bone saw to a pole for cutting deeper in the snow pack. It doesn't work that well for this, but it is better than the BCA one which doesn't have an option for this.
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
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February 5, 2009
With the original f1's when you turned on the beacon it gave a series of fast green light blinks to show battery life. When that was done it went to its normal blinking light pulse rate. Around 30 blinks was a full battery, 15 blinks was when I would replace the batteries.
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February 2, 2009
They are predrilled for the dynafits, and if I can remember from my shop/mounting days, I believe the fritschi has a different mounting pattern. You could probably do it if the holes were at least a half centimeter off, but why would you want to put fritschi's on those skis anyway? The beauty of them is that they are so light, and you need to keep that alive with dynafit bindings!
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January 31, 2009
Well, if you are having trouble finding differences that is because there aren't many! Mostly marketing, they 'beefed' these up a bit with some more plastic and a longer throw on the toe piece lever, which makes life a little easier. But overall, it is essentially the same binding as the comfort, so you might as well go with the comfort!
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January 31, 2009
If you are that much resort/backcountry than you should stick with the fritschi. It is the best compromise for the two. The naxo is another option and so is the marker duke, but both are heavier, and thus would not be as enjoyable to take into the backcountry.
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January 31, 2009
the adrenalines are definitely one of the beefiest 'touring' oriented boots. At almost 8.5lbs per pair, they will be one of the heavier boots you will want to take into the backcountry for that long of a trip. After two weeks you will really start to feel the weight. Otherwise, they will be comfortable, as they have a walk mode and you can keep the buckles pretty loose for the way up.
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January 31, 2009
My two cents would be go with the shorter ones...they will be easier to ski and give you a bit more of a learning curve. By the time you have skied these into the ground you will probably be a better more aggressive skies and you can then size em up!
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January 31, 2009
Either a 110mm or 120mm. The 120 will obviously require more trimming, but will give a true edge to edge wall of skin on your skis. I usually size my skins for the widest part of my ski. The tip and tail kit should work fin with your twin tips. I use this same skin on a Karhu Team 100 twin tip.
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January 31, 2009
Some stoppers, hexes, tri-cams, and a lot of slings and biners.I would say start with the basics: NUTS they are cheap and light weight. You can never have too many. Also taking a class from a local climbing club its a good way to practice with trad gear and figure out what kind of rack works for you. Cams are great but loosing a $50 cam instead of a $10 nut sucks.Spend money wisely now, and you won't need to re-buy things later! Friends are good (its the page this question is on!) but I prefer camalots. Get a set. 1 set of nuts, like the BD stoppers. Tri-cams and hexes- don't bother, you will stop using them down the road, and although they are great pieces of gear, they never come out with me. I would add to your draws with 6 shoulder length slings (skinny ones) and at least one biner for each, same with your cams, at least one biner with each. And lastly, take a learn to climb trad course from a respectable guide service. Clubs can go either way, depending on the member teaching, but I would say hiring a certified guide (AMGA in the US and ACMG in canada) will steer you down the right path!
Helpful Votes: 3 Yes
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January 27, 2009
I have been skiing dynafits for years, and I find the release dependable on the ski hill. You either need brakes or a leash so that your skis don't take off with out you! They have a DIN setting that goes to 10, so they are tested and dependable. There is no toe DIN release but it has been dependable for me as well. Compressions and bumps are the two shortfalls to this binding on the ski hill, so be wary!
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January 26, 2009
with out a doubt i would go with the 184s these skis are surprisingly quick (think BD kilowatt) you will be happy with this choice.I fully agree, the 184s are pretty quick to snap around. I am 6'2 and about 180, and I find them plenty agile in the trees.
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January 26, 2009
5.10 men's shoes are always in US mens sizes
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January 25, 2009
They are not sold seperately but BD's warranty program is quite good, so I wouldn't worry to much, and so is backcountry.com's!!!!!
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January 25, 2009
If you are going to use a leash, these are the ones. Easy on and off, comfy, and with the non-bd tool attachement they still work okay, just tape or hose clamp them on even more so that they are still easy to get on and off.
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January 25, 2009
Yes they will, it is the neumatic attachment, a great crampon for that boot, but be weary of trying to climb harder ice in those boots, as the 3/4 shank will flex alot!
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January 25, 2009
Any top-flight ski shop in your area should have a boot guru to help dial in the fit of these. Call around, or better yet, ask the local shreds where their boots got worked on so that you can get them handled by the best guy/gal in your neighborhood. Don't forget to tip!Don't try it yourself, you would be surprised how many people try it in their toaster ovens and the burst into flames!It will be done best by a pro, but you can do it yourself, google lou dawson and boot fitting and he has a good article with some DIY guidelines.
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December 16, 2008
Get a 100mm wide skin and trim it to size, directions or some online guide might be found on wildsnow.at
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December 16, 2008
Personally, I don't like the alias. It is too tall and narrow, and just doesn't ride well. The covert (which I use) and the outlaw (which my wife uses) both pack well, and compress well, and ride in a more saggy, tear drop fashion, so the load is lower on your back and it doesn't get in the way of your head/noggin.
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December 12, 2008
You can slide the pick out of the grip, and the strap comes out as well. You are left with the rubber grip and it works fine.
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December 4, 2008
If you got em on backcountry.com then just call them up and send them back! 100% guarantee when you buy here!
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December 4, 2008
I have heard from folks that the transit might be a better all arounder, with enough shovel to plow through the crud and powder. It definitely turns better than the reverend on the hard pack.
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December 3, 2008
If you are just starting out I would get a simple and cheap shoe. Usually beginners foot work is not so great and you really tend to beat shoes up and wear them out fast. Start simple, you won't really notice really techno shoes at first! You can always get some more later...
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December 2, 2008
it should work but it may be a little loose and make for some faster lowerings... the Trango Cinch goes down to 9.4. It works great on my 9.8mm rope. Unfortunately Backcountry.com does not sell it.Remember this device is technically rated for ropes betwee 10mm and 13mm! That being said most people use them for skinnier ropes, and they work ok to about 9.5mm but use at your own risk!
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December 2, 2008
That depends on how cold the water is... lol. Little joke. I couldn't resist.They shrink a bit after the first wash, and every wash, but they always stretch right back out.
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December 1, 2008
Depending on usage, the Trango is more of a GTX mountaineering/climbing boot designed for moving fast over technical terrain. The Glacier is suitable for mountaineering, difficult hiking on rugged terrain, snowfields and glacier travel. It also uses a "Dri-Lex" lining as compared to GTX. To add to that, they are quite different boots, I have owned both. The trango is way lighter and more nimble, it also climbs technical rock way better. The glacier is more of an easy mountaineering/heavy backpacking boot. It is heavier and way less nimble.
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December 1, 2008
It has a very similar fit to the elios, but has an insert that goes in above your head which can take up space and add some suspension, but you can just pull it out and give the helmet more depth. It has very similar protection to the elios. I would say it is overall just a little bit nicer and more hi tech.
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December 1, 2008
These bindings have lasted me about 5 or 6 seasons of HEAVY use. You may need to replace a spring or bushing after a few years to have reliable DIN releases.
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December 1, 2008
I prefer a diagonal set-up with every pack I've ever used. That being said, the A-frame style will be a little more stable once you have some gear crammed in you pack. This pack is so easy to carry skis diagonally...slide them into one of the big loops at the base of the front of the pack and clip them in diagonally across the back. Voila, so fast, don't hit you in the head on steep uphills, and won't catch the back of your knees or tag the ground on the way up.
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November 30, 2008
Using this rope with a gri-gri would be a gamble. The gri gri is rated for ropes that are 10-11 mm in diameter. This being 9.8 is close but...The mechanism in the gri-gri depends on the diameter of the rope being at least 10 mm for an effective stop..This rope is sweet and I would highly recommend it...I also have a gri gri and after using it a few times went right back to a normal ATC....Having a gri gri is nice when you are climbing with someone who isn't an experienced belay (or a friend you know doesn't like to pay attention) because it has the auto lock feature but atc's are way more versatile and my climbing life has become way less complicated since I switched back.True the technical tested rope diameters for a gri gri are a minimum of 10mm, but this is a fat 9.8mm and works fine in my gri gri...always be safe and keep your breakhand on the rope though!
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November 30, 2008
Buckner: "Considering that the DIN only goes to 10, I'd be skeptical. That said, I've never used them."Well, I've used them extensively, and can give you a real answer. I'm not sure why you'd ever want to do a 12-foot drop onto packed powder with an AT binding (or any binding for that matter), since the purpose of alpine touring is to find untracked powder, but if you have to, these bindings would hold up the same as any other binding would at a given DIN rating. If an alpine binding set at 10 DIN will keep your skis attached while performing such "tricks," then these will too. That's what the DIN standard means. Still, Dynafit's objective is to make the lightest touring bindings in the world, and they require a certain amount of operator care and precision. If you're really interested in abusing your equipment, you're better off with an alpine binding.Buckner: Apologies that I can't provide a "real answer," but as you mentioned, DIN is a standard. Hence consistent amongst all good quality bindings. Since DIN is correlated with force, the force of a 12 foot drop could potentially kick off a binding unnecessarily that's set on 10. Ie the guy could have skied out of the landing despite a force that was strong enough to cause a binding release on a DIN of 10, whereas this release would not have occurred on a DIN of 12. Thus proper DIN needs are dependent on the forces a skier generates, thus his strength, height, weight and ability. I'm 170lbs and ski on a DIN of 12 on a salomon binding. It has always released when I needed it to, and never has released prematurely (knock on wood). If you're hitting 12 foot drops and weigh 160-170lbs or more, you're a good skier that could use a binding with a DIN of 12. Not 10. Just my $0.02. Plus, maxing out a spring likely reduces the longevity of the binding. In other words, it makes sense to ski at DIN 10 on a binding that goes to 12 versus skiing a binding set on DIN 10 that only goes to 10.For a simple answer, I have been skiing a pair for 5 years, in bounds, mostly out of bounds touring, but drops, pillows, hard skiing,the works, and they are bomber!
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November 30, 2008
These bindings do release but not as well as a Diamir. To add to that, the heels are DIN releasable, but the toe pieces are not, so they will release a bit differently then a standard Diamir.
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November 30, 2008
When you pull the latch all the way up, the binding REALLY locks onto your toes...i mean takes A LOT to get them to come off, almost dangerously so. 1 or 2 clicks means they can still release but stay on your toes for touring up, but come off if you need them to like in an avalanche. Be careful, if you lock these on for the way down, they will stay on, a nice bonus for skiing in NO fall and don't want to lose a ski terrain!
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November 28, 2008
The Line prophet 100 and the Karhu team 100 are the exact same ski, different top sheets. The Karhus come with telemark and alpine mounting points. The obsethed is a rockered ski. That makes it more powder specific than the others. The fujas is a really soft flexing ski that doesn't perform as well as the others as an all mountain ski. The Line 100/Karhu 100 are the most versatile out of the skis you listed. I just bought the Karhu 100 because they can be found for a lot cheaper ($400 new if you search the internet) than the line 100. And I liked the topsheets better. The green is actually a lime green, very bright.You can ski these no problem with a normal DIN alpine binding. And the graphics kick ass.
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November 28, 2008
I see from the specs that a crampon patch is mentioned. In enlarged pics of the pack, it appears that it might be possible to hang/strap one's crampons onto the pack on the back between one's ice tools. Is this the intended spot? Thnx.The four black metal loops on the front take the BD crampon straps that come with most packs, making a really nice and convenient crampon carrying system.
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November 28, 2008
You could use it for those things but it is not certifed for those activities. I think the BD helmets were designed by someone from the bike helmet world, but they do have different protection intentions than biking or skating. In short, yes it would work, but the company hasn't paid to have it tested to other industry standards.
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November 28, 2008
I have climbed up to 5.10 in them, they would be awesome for alpine rock, just a little big to carry around in the pack, but super comfy for all day climbing
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