Or alternatively, you could get a skin that is 100mm, and not have to trim anything. Preference of the user. Make sure it is long enough too.

The thing about Full Tilts is that you pretty much buy the colour scheme you want, and they a tongue that has the flex that suits you. So if they fit your foot, and you like 'em, go grab the Hot Doggers, and if they feel too soft, go buy an 8 flex tongue (this comes with a 6).

It would depend on what you ski I would say.
I'm 90kg and 6' and I ski the 185 in steep trees and bowls. You could go for the 175, since you are a lighter guy, and that would be all you needed, but you could also get away with the 185. As for bindings, the Marker Royal Family bindings are really good, if not overpriced, Look/Rossi/Dynastar all preform very well, and Salomon bindings are good. Basically, any clamp that has the DIN you want, and is in your price range, I say go for it.

Yeah the Griffon is a good binding for the A'Bangs. Get the 177 for sure, the length adds stability in the park, and on landings.

Yeah they will fit. Pick the brake size you need for the waist of your ski, which is 85. So the 90mm brake.

Not while you are skiing. They have a strap that wraps the chin strap, and then snaps that hold it in place. Never have I lost my ear flaps.

Pair.

Negatory.

They will *fit*, but not like most bindings. They will rub the sides of the ski, but really, won't cause any problems. Plus a shop can pull them out if it bothers you.

I find that the Intuition liners take longer to pack out than say a Salomon boot, being a high quality foam. Don't remember exactly how many days it took, but somewhere around 1 to 2 months of straight skiing. Compared to older pairs of boots that took just a couple weeks. Also, they can be reheated to puff them back out.

Any boot that fits and has a flex that helps you ski? Hard to just say check out this boot to someone online. Head into a shop and start trying things on. Dalbello makes good boots for people that have a narrow heel and a slightly wider foot box, with customizable flexes. Full Tilt makes custom flexing boots, and fit medium throughout. Salomon makes good price point boots for a wider foot, but the flex isn't customizable. Thats about as much help as I can be without specific information and you actually trying boots on.

Yeah it will fit one.

Weight wise these are comparable to the Smartwool in my experience, and same with warmth. The Capilene 1 is lighter all around, so the trade off for less weight is less warmth.

That would be a negative.

It would hold a longboard, but it would be between your back and the pack itself sitting on either the bottom of the shoulder straps or the hipbelt. Look for a pack that has a skateboard/snowboard carry system, or if you like this pack, you will have to make due.

Yeah buddy.

Dalbello boots are narrower than Salomon's. Like a 98mm last compared to a 102mm. They will feel (in my experience) close to the same in the calf, but the ankle to ball will be tighter. The toe box is comfortably sized for most feet. Size wise, do your Ghosts fit a little loose or sloppy? If so, drop accordingly, Dalbello is slightly smaller but all liners pack out.

The IL Moro is noticeably softer in the flex than the Pro, since it is meant for park. I prefer the medium flex tongue on the Pro over the IL Moro for an all mountain set up, but if you live in the park than you can't beat the IL.

That's a negative chief.

Yeah, it will work just fine. 22L fits quite a bit.

I find that the JJs odd elf shoe thing with the tip and tail help reduce the drag through chop and glide you nicer. That said, the new 'Bents are 132 underfoot compared to 115 on the JJ. So, float wise, with the soft tip, crazy rocker, and massive underfoot, the Bent's and gonna float better. JJ's will be more versatile.

Worried about overcast or changing light? My advice is spring for the polarized. It is definitely worth it. That said, I prefer grey as they are for medium to bright light, where the black iridium is for very bright conditions and reducing glare.

That would be for the minimum bud. You're all good.

Not really, I mean it says that it is mold resistant but so does a Nalgene. I would check out the Kleen Kanteen if I was you, since they are unlined food grade stainless steel.

I would got for the 26. Liners are foam, and foam packs out, so your boots will end up becoming at times a size larger. So get the smaller size you feel like you can get away with.

Well what do you normally set your bindings to? Something around a 9 or 10? Get the Baron. If you like to set your DIN higher, to something 12 or over? Grab the Duke. Either will hold you in for what you do, it comes down to what you set your DIN. Personally, I would say the Baron, since it is lighter, and you really don't need a DIN set over 10. Remember, you should never max out the DIN on your bindings, it is bad for the spring.

Compression straps to keep your load tight, because tight is right.

In my opinion, you need to ride it to know how long you want it. That said, the 178 will probably be enough for you. The only time you will wish you had more would be if they started becoming unstable at speeds. The 188 would work just fine for you, but 8 or 9 times out of 10 you will probably just think that these boats are keeping you down in the bumps and trees.

Bindings are not measured in your shoe size, they are not connected in the middle. The toe and heel are free to go however far apart necessary to fit your feet. So buy what ever size brake width that fits your ski.

The brake width of 90 means it will accommodate anything up to that, so 85 works well with no extra, and no rubbing when the brakes come up.

Depends on the buck you want to spend, and the DIN you are looking for. If you are a big dude, or ski really aggressive or fast, and set yours up higher than 11 or 12, get something in the 14 (Look PX 14 is a nice one) or or 16 (this) range. If you ride at an 8 set, are on a budget or dont fit the fast/large/aggressive category, get something that has a smaller set, like the Look Px 12 or even the Salomon.

Yeah it would work just fine. The Trace is suited for goggles nicely, and the I/O fits a large portion of helmets on the market today.

All I know that is different is the waterproof camera pocket on the DLX. They are very similar in person, and for a school pack, I would say just get the cheaper Heli Pro.

The pocket on the back panel will be for your bladder, it keeps that weight and constantly shifting load right against your back in the most stable position. The other will be for an organizer. It says that there are 2 shoulder strap water bottle holders, so those are probably what you are talking about.

Those are 2 pretty different bindings you have picked out. The Mojo (this model) is an 18 DIN, and the PX 12 is obviously a 12 DIN. You only need a (shop recommended) 7 or possibly 8 setting on your DIN, and you should never be at either extreme of the binding, and the lower of these is 8. I recommend the PX12, not only because of the DIN set, but simply it is a much nicer binding with a great heel.

For stability alone I always recommend the longer length you can get away with. So the 177 seems like it will fit you better. You ski fast, which on a shorter ski means you get squirrelly, so the length adds weight to your rig that keeps it smooth. Your weight is a factor, but as an advanced skier, you should be able to figure out how to stay aggressive on top of something that length and keep it under your control. The Bridge is a good ski for an all mountain twin.

The Disorderly is a good ski, but personally I wouldn't really use it outside of the park. It has a center only mounting position, with the same dimensions for tip and tail, making it great for park, but sloppy else where. The Dumont on the other hand is better for an all mountain approach to park ski, it has normal characteristics of skis, but still is great in the park. Get him like the 171 length, of in my recommendation the Dumont. The K2 Extreme or whatever they named it for this coming season is also great, and very similar to the Dumont, so that is another option.

You would not have to change the brake, the 110mm is almost ideal for that, as there is no rub like with a 100mm brake.

Sounds like a rumor to me. I have seen some really huge switch hits on these and nothing bad has happened. I know a guy that had these on S7's and he hit big park and bc jumps all the time, still rocking that set up. And I have dropped some big cliffs to switch with no problems.

I have seen it done, but it was one of the most miserable looking guys on the skin up. He blasted the down, but the rocker gives you so little to use for skin grip, yo are working way harder than anyone else. So to answer your questions, it is mildly crazy, and totally possible. Just not pleasant.

Not really, they skis are pretty mellow usually. Stay aggressive on them, make sure to be the driver, but other than that, you will be fine.

You ski aggressive and are looking for a 50/50 ski for pow. That spells Zealot in my books. The 110 mm width will be sweet for the BC and pow days, and isn't really, considering skis these days, that wide to make it unwieldily on a groomer. Stay on top of the ski, and make sure it isn't driving you, and this baby will be all you need.

The 177 will be good for now, size wise and for starting in the park. The shorter length makes it better for swing on spins. Once you progress, the 185 will be better since it will be able to take you all over the mountain. If it is a one ski quiver deal, go 185 and just get used to the length.

For sure dude. These have a 100mm brake, so since the waist of the ski is smaller than that, you are golden with these.

Katanas are pretty sweet, so be sure to not forget about them, but the Zealots are a really good touring ski. That is where they win over the Katanas. I would say that the 192 Zealot will feel good for you, it has a core that isn't boring, but can handle drops, cliffs, whatever. I don't think that you need anything over the 192, it won't help you out any, that is what the waist width is for, and will weigh more, making it less ideal for longer tours. Your height makes you feel like you need a longer ski, but your weight means that anything from 185 and up will be a great fit.

The Knowledge OTG in the Turbo Fan series is ideal for wearing over the glasses. Still has the fan, large volume interior for your specs, and standard Smith awesomeness.

They work with the G10s. The MX means less (marginally) air gets sucked in while hiking, but that clears up fine on the downhill. The gap between the fan and the brim is actually quite large. The regular G10, well, that fits with these as good as any other helmet really.

Well if by Variant Peak you mean Variant Brim, then yeah it works pretty well. Sucks the air right from the gap between brim and goggles and provides enough fresh air that it keeps the fog down.

The RC36 is a legit lens for all conditions, cuts glare, and increases depth of field. The Ignitor Mirror is very similar, and I find better. Your mileage may vary, but in BC with the flat light and constant clouds, the Sensor Mirror is ideal, making it my favourite and most used. The Platinum Mirror is good for slight overcast to full bluebird, and is my second lens. Depending on your hills/areas normal conditions, check the Smith website for the lens tech they have listed, it shows what each is designed for.

For the Turbo Fan series, the Phenom Turbo Fan is for smaller faces, and has less internal volume. It should work for your wife, and I know many a female ripper that rocks them.

Cheers.

It is designed pretty much for your needs. Personally I feel that it limits your options overall (read: lack of storage for a shell), but does cut back on weight and drops the hassle of a pack moving around on your back.

Well 8L isn't really that big. A Gore PacLite shell usually comes to about 2-2.5L, so it's not very big at all. I would get this over a vest, as you can stash some extra bars/Gu, a shell, etc. Or weights for extra training.

Yeah dude for sure. A 60m rope, small tent, and sleeping bag probably will eat most of you internal room in this, the rest going to food and clothing. The brain of the pack should hold the rest of your essentials. Then that bigger front pocket should swallow shoes, chalk, trad rack. The smallest size is 82L, and since a general daypack is about 35L, and holds all your climbing gear, imagine the extra room. Try this, throw all the non-climbing gear in your standard daypack, if it all fits, then take that size of pack and double it, and you got what size you need for what you described.

Deuter says the pack is designed for a 17-21 inch back length. It should be good for you, but measure your back first. As for the small shoulders and chest, the sternum strap pulls down good on all Deuters, and will keep the straps centered over your shoulders.

Pretty much they are designed for body weight only placements. Made mostly for aid climbing. I would never trust it to hold a lead fall, nor would I trust it for a belay. In the belay, if your leader falls, it will pull you up, meaning a much higher force than just sitting on it.

It depends on what kind of a student you are. If you carry around several large, hardcover textbooks everyday, then this is not really ideal. With a laptop, and at most 2 texts with a notebook, it will be fine for school. But if you don't bring those textbooks, or have a place to swap books between classes, then the 24 is sweet. The 26 does not give you any more room in the main compartment, as the extra 2 litres comes from the top pocket of the pack, which can hold your powercord, pens, etc. which is nice to free up a bit of room.

You are more searching for a pack designed for light overnighters or weekend trips when you are in SAR. This small of a pack will hold probably about half what you need really, even with the rope secured to the outside of the pack. It is meant more for light dayhikes, and when you end up on a call that means you are staying out in the bush, you need something that carries all your gear. Check out the Osprey Talon 33 or 44. The 44 has a ton of room, and cinches down to a small size when not full, and the 33 is a great bag for light overnighters, and is what I use for SAR callouts.

By trying one in a shop, I can tell you that it goes up to probably a 38 waist, as it fit my 34 waist with enough room for all the layers I would need. As for if you are really small, the straps had a lot of room to play in that direction for me, but I don't think it went down quite that much... Hopefully that is enough info for you.

I doubt that the hydration sleeve can handle a 15" MacBook, but the main compartment will for sure. The waist belt is padded, and nice and wide, which beats the heck out of simple straps.

Good catch. They run a big site though, a few typos are acceptable in my books.

I definitely agree that if you are a beginner belayer, stick with something you *have* to pay attention to. After that look into a GriGri. They are better in my mind for sport if you have proper technique, especially if you have people follow up in top-rope, or have a hangdog climber in your group. And boinking is so much easier, even though it is not used that often. Feeding takes practice, but becomes smooth and second nature after a short time.
Just my opinion mostly, I like the GriGri. Decide what suits your needs.

You don't NEED them per se, but buying new skins means A. you don't need to replace any glue any time soon, B. you get a custom fit skin for your new skis with full(er) coverage that makes it easier for steeper ascents.
If you want to just use them, you will be fine, and they will let you glide more on the flats.

That really depends. If you ski big lines or like to go fast, something longer, like the 178cm. If you like turning agility and don't ski too fast, the 170cm. If you weigh a lot (no offense meant), ski fast and hard, then maybe even the 186cm. See, lots of variability. Hit us up with more info about your skiing, and someone can get more accurate for you. Cheers.

Yeah I agree with Phunk, maxing your DIN is scary business, but maxing a 12 when you weigh that little... I seriously doubt you need to run that high at all, but if you do, look at a binding that has a higher DIN so you don't top out the spring, so at least a 14, if not a 16.

At her size, you won't need a DIN range up to 12, so probably look at something around a 10. It will be cheaper, lighter, and keep her in the middle of the range, instead of too close to the bottom.

Yeah they will get the job done. Unless you charge lines in the backcountry or like to hit very large jumps, chances are a shop will click you at about a 7 DIN, so 12 is plenty. If you specify what you ski, I might be able to help out more.

I shove the whole thing on the top of my head. It's about all I figure to do. I have Smith goggles with the quick release to take them off too though.

I shove the whole thing on the top of my head. It's about all I figure to do. I have Smith goggles with the quick release to take them off too though.

You could throw on something along the lines of the Look/Rossi bindings, maybe the Rossi 140 or the Look PX 15. Both of these are really good bindings, and cheaper than something like the Jester. That said, the Jester would probably be my first choice, since they truly are in my opinion one of the best bindings you can buy. Salomon would be my last choice, but the STH 16 might be alright if you like something like that.

It depends on how much switch riding you do. If you spend a lot of time in the park and riding backwards, sure, mount them center. If switch isn't a major part of your time, mount then at +5. Or, if you don't ride switch at all, mount them somewhere even further from center, at say +2.

I would say the 181 for sure. Means more float, more stability, and an all around better ride for your size.

For me, out of those I say the Ignitor. It makes features pop out in the flat light conditions, protects well in the brights, and works a bit better at night. But if you want only one lens and it involves night riding, grab the Sensor Mirror. It works beautifully from the very bottom to the medium bright days.

Yeah different tints make it easier to see in different conditions. If you check out the Electric site, it will tell you all the ones they produce, and what they are good for.

You can grab these in a 140 if you want full coverage. Trim down so the edges are all that is showing on your bases, and install the tip piece. BD has instructions that come with. These are good everything skins in my opinion, since they have the tail attachment for secure fit, and good glue for all conditions.

I have some pictures thrown up of skis on this pack (not good and not on the back, but they get the job done) posted up on the standard Outlaw page. Check them out!

Alright guys, if I'm wrong I am wrong, thanks for correcting me. I don't want anyone to buy the wrong gear. I just remember our tech telling me that last years S3 had Rossi's Rocking Chair Effect, which basically is early rise tip and tail rocker if I am not mistaken. They still have that, still have the traditional camber, have larger dimensions and a different graphic. That is all I was saying.

Not too sure K2 actually reads this, and I think that they might have gotten complaints in the opposite direction last year, about it being to graphic. You can always send them an email, they like getting feedback as far as I can tell.

http://k2skis.com/support/contact

Definitely would suggest going up instead of down, since it is always nice to have to float and stability from the length. As for the Coomback or Wayback, it depends on what you want. If you ski a ton of powder, go Coomback. Anything else, Wayback might be better for the up.

The 159 should be alright for her. It will feel the same as the skis she is used to, and make a really good all-mountain rig for her.

These ones will work, for sure. Nothing wrong with G3 skins. That said, I seem to like Black Diamond gear better, especially the tailclip-less Standard skin from them. Works nice for twintips.

These ones will work, for sure. Nothing wrong with G3 skins. That said, I seem to like Black Diamond gear better, especially the tailclip-less Standard skin from them. Works nice for twintips.

I do it in my ObSETheds from K2 all the time, not really a big deal. I don't feel like the tail rocker makes my traction area shorter at all, since the waist will still sink in the skin-track a bit, and that means the tail is touching snow.

Pull the top of the goggle up while holding the bottom steady. The lens should separate from the body. This is the hardest part, so if straight pulling doesn't work for you, try hooking your nails under the front side of the top of the goggle, and pry. Then remove from the bottom. It is held in by some hooks, feels like it won't come out sometimes, but it will. Putting in, just snap into the bottom, and pull the top over the lens and push down.

It looks pretty red on their website. Not the reddest red, but more red than orange, at least to my eyes.

There really is no way to cut out the glare of sunny days while still transmitting enough light for night skiing. Polarized is an option though, since it does help with glare. The HI Yellow is by far my favourite Oakley lens, since it is awesome for everything up to medium bright days. After that it starts getting hard on the eyes. You just have to think, what is more important to you, that you do more, night or sun?

You can get it here as well, to be safe. Here is the link:

http://www.backcountry.com/outdoorgear/Smith-Universal-Helmet-Helper/SMI0138M.html

It fits, but barely on my large Bad Lieutenant. You can get a goggle extension for it as well, which makes it a lot easier. And if you were wondering, they fit go against the helmet as well, no gaps.

They won't match up. Take them to a shop that can fill the old holes and has a jog to mount the Griffons.

No way, chicks can for sure rock this helmet. Just measure your head and pick one from the sizing chart that matches up.

I would say +5 from the trad mount. That gives you more in the tip to stop tip dip, and still will be switch rideable in pow and on the groomed.

As far as I can tell this is the only Oakley OTG. Smith makes some OTG frames as well, and I find that they look a bit better than these.

Check out the Look PX 15. Great hold, and only a fraction of the price of the Jester with 15 DIN instead of 16.

The closest fit to the Mace is probably the O-Frame actually. Closest to that is the A-Frame. Personally, if you are willing to pay for it, the Crowbar is a way better goggle, for optics, peripherals, helmet-compatibility, and fit.

That is the brake size, so if you have a ski that is less than 90mm at the waist, get the 90mm. If it is bigger than 90mm, get the 110mm.

Pretty sure BD discontinued this glove.

For full coverage take the widest measurement of you ski, usually the tip, and buy the closest to that that you can. Then trim.

The 177 would not be a huge difference, and you will probably progress to a longer length fairly soon, if you are moving to Colorado. For now, this will get you through quite well as a quiver of one rig, but next season or maybe the season after you will be looking at longer planks, almost guaranteed.

It compresses quite a bit with the straps. Also, the pack really isn't huge or anything, it's only 30L, and it comes a lot from the length, not the height off your back.

Sensor Mirror is what I would tell you to get. It is versatile enough to use at night, in flat light, whiteout, overcast, and still won't hurt your eyes during the brighter days.

Yes, as far as I know, and from what I can tell, the Crowbar frame has not changed sizes for the lenses.

Go 179 dude, you can handle it.

Yes, they will. The outriggers on the sides make them fit evenly with any helmet, including the snow x ones.

No, it does not.

I am pretty sure last season's waist was only at a 90mm, and this season is up to the 98mm. Other than that width increase and the graphic change, they are about the same.

You are at the point were you could go these or up. If you went up you would have to look at most likely wider dimensions and such, more of a big-mountain pow rig. These are going to be alright for you for almost anything, since you are not that heavy of a guy. Plus they will be nice and manageable for all-mountain duty.

You are correct, since the teeth help in skinning and the like. I think Backcountry was just trying to get a picture more to show what it is than to show the proper orientation of the baskets.

Plutonite is what Oakley calls the material that they make the lenses out of. Not the colour. For a low light lens, I recommend the HI Yellow, it works good from overcast to whiteout to flat light to night riding.

Pretty wide. I would say wider than the A-Frame and even the Crowbars, but definitely not the widest on the market.

The glue will be all you need. They are designed more around twin tips, since attachments tend to slide off on them. Plus they are easier to get on and off, since you only stick on, no tail clips.

It depends what this setups use is for. If you Fritschi set is a more long distance, multi-day tour set up than I would say Dukes. That gives you a heavier setup that you can mount on bigger planks, so that you have more of a sidecountry, day-tour setup for charging hard and the likes.

The Baron's add quite a bit of weight if you are only using them for only 3 times a year. If you want the function these are probably the best since they are most designed towards resort with the touring still waiting for whenever you want. If you can't justify it you should go for the Griffons, which are the same bindings without the touring capability, and weighs less.

The blue on the frame? It's a fairly bright, light blue, like a cyan.

I find that it mostly dials down to personal preference, since it almost always doesn't matter. I prefer a-frame carry usually, since it puts the tails on either side of my legs and is a bit more balanced on the pack.

It's just a ski, so the stomping part is up to you. But that said, the stiffer flex makes it easier to stay up on them if you land a bit backseat, so perfect landings are not a requirement.

You should always mount a symmetrical ski at core center. They will feel really awkward if elsewhere, and way harder to ski, even in the pow.

That is a bit of a tough call between the Dukes and the Fritschi. The Freerides are better for actually AT, mostly since they weigh less than the Duke. They are less good for slackcountry/lazy touring, since you most likely (for me anyway) are charging harder in those situations, so you want a more confidence inspiring bindings on the down, which is were the Dukes excel. Personally I would put the Dukes on these, since it is mainly a slackcountry deal from what I gather. But since your question is if the Freerides will drive these, the answer is yes, they will. Just keep on top of them.

This model doesn't have headphones built in, but this model of the same helmet does:

http://www.backcountry.com/outdoorgear/SMI0494/Smith-Holt-Skullcandy-Audio-Helmet.html

Pretty much. It is designed to snap into a Bern to stay put. No other helmet will work for that.

Nope, solid strap.

You can find the polarized version here:

http://www.backcountry.com/outdoorgear/Oakley-Splice-Goggle-Polarized/OAK2363M.html

And yes, you are correct, they come in the VR28 and H.I. Amber.

You basically have 2 options that I know of. You can pull your goggles down to your chin/neck area and keep your helmet on normally. I find this the worst of the 2, since heat is funneled up your jacket right to this location. The second option is to undo your chin strap, and slide your goggles and helmet up your head so that it is barely on, and your goggles are on your forehead. If you have a sweaty forehead, this is a bad option, but for me it's the best way.

Yeah it is cheaper to buy them separately. Don't know how bc.com got the total of these 2 as $440.. cause it adds up to like $280 when they aren't on sale, and both are on sale making it $230. I would buy separate dude.

It should fit your 15 inch Macbook Pro.

The 100oz. will fit. Personally with a already fairly small pack, I would get the 70oz. so that you have more room in it, and it weighs less. If neither concerns you, go for the 100oz., because it's always nice to be the only one left with water.

Ignitor is more of a medium to high light day lens, and Sensor is a low, flat to medium lens. I would rather have a lens that is good for the bad days, and not as good on the good days instead of something that is useless on the bad days, so I would recommend the Sensor.

I think it might just be the lighting that was used in the picture. As far as I have seen elsewhere, it is a darker shade of brown than this shown. Check evogear, they usually have really good photos of colour and the like.

It all depends on how far away the person is and the lighting conditions/angle. They don't look like they totally block out from the other side, but in the right light conditions they be close enough to not make out where you are looking.

Most goggles should stay put, especially the ones with the rubber strip in the strap. But I think that POC designed these more for the newschool crowd, that likes the goggle strap under the helmet.

If he loves powder, then these are great. They will probably not be what he is used to in the bumps, but they will manage alright. Powder, whether in trees or bowls, is gonna be where these are best suited for, so if that's his deal, they will be awesome.

Personally, I ski bare legged under my Helly insulated pants, and that is all the way down to where the lifts don't roll, and only a lightweight base in the backcountry. So if you like being really warm, or ski in super cold, like -40C or below, then these will be fine. If not, I would drop that mid-layer. That is my preference though, others may be different.

I would get the non-custom Nylon STS so that you can make them your own length, and not have to worry about what size you should get. And the 125 should probably give you enough coverage all over.

You can look around at the different cheaper goggles, and just kind of look at them. They need a fairly flat top to the frame to fit with the contour of the helmet, but that's about the most major thing that you can look for. Best way is to test. That said, a good budget goggle that fits the Omen is the Oakley O-Frame.

If you rip hard, you should probably go for the Jester. If you run your bindings at the 10-12 range, then you should for sure get the Jester, since you don't want to keep them that close to the top.

You can't put your goggles up, unless you have a super stretchy or long goggle strap. The brim is too big to allow that. One way around that is to unhook your chin strap and push your goggles onto your forehead, which is what I do. Another route to go is bring your goggles down around your chin area, but I find this harder to pull off and get back on. The Mace does fit in this, with minimal-no gap at all.

Go 170 if you want more of an everything ski. If you ski aggressively and want something pretty much pow only, you might be able to grab the 178.

Yeah man for sure. There is quite a big lip from the lens to the front edge of the goggle, but I'll post another more side-view pic for you.

It is hard to say, since Dalbello doesn't actually post a rating with their boots, but they come with a medium and a stiff tongue. Swap them around for park or all-mountain riding. The stiff is probably around a 120-130 area, maybe more, and the medium is at the 100-110 range.

The Crowbars from Oakley are super sick with these, and basically any Smith will work, best probably being the I/O.

Dude they fit so nice. The tops of the I/O are nice and flat to fit perfect with it. You probably will need to extend the strap out most of the way, but it fits. Worst part is the clip at the back of the goggles, which interferes with the goggle attachment a bit on the G10.

Dude they fit so nice. The tops of the I/O are nice and flat to fit perfect with it. You probably will need to extend the strap out most of the way, but it fits. Worst part is the clip at the back of the goggles, which interferes with the goggle attachment a bit on the G10.

It isn't going to be as extreme as football pads, but you will most likely not forget you are wearing it. They did a pretty good job on this one, according to some friends, and it isn't super obtrusive, but yeah, you will realize you have it on.

Check out what I told you for the Konflicts. It can apply to these as well if you like this boot better, since all Full Tilts are fully customizable.

I would say that since more time is out of the park, get the Konflict. If it was inverse, as in 75% park/25% all-mountain, then the Hot Dogger. Also, I would recommend getting a softer tongue for park, and possibly a shock absorbing footboard. That way you can have them with your pack in the chalet, and slay all over the hill in the morning, then switch out the tongue, which is super easy, and go throw down in the park. Or find a tongue that is a happy medium so you can do both if you want.

For slash turns, I like to have a little less in front of my boot, so that there is less out there to catch in the snow. I almost always mount an all-mountain/big-mountain ski at +2, because they still charge hard, are not too far off trad, and don't catch at the tip when sideways as much. You are more centered on the ski also, so ripping pow and pillows in a good body position is easier.

The early rise makes it ski a bit shorter, but not really that much. The radius is bigger on these than the Chiefs, so you lose some "turny-ness" from that and the added 10mm in the waist. Either length will give you more float too. You can stick with the 174 if you want, but I think that for bigger lines and to progress, the 181 will be a better length for you. The Fritshi bindings are alright, and will work probably better than the Dukes at everything but the down, but since you aren't worrying about jumps/drops, then I would tell you that they will be fine for you, since more blowouts you hear on them are from drops. Lastly, I can't comment on the K2 skins, because I always use BD ones, and yes, they work on the new K2 stuff.

It has a 98mm last, but if you feel like squishing in go for it. The liner will pack out or heat mold to your foot eventually.

Amazon has the shipping weight posted at 11.2 ounces, so somewhere around 10+ ounces after the packaging.

I would say that the persimmon lens is probably your best bet, for an all-purpose lens. It has a high contrast for low or flat light, and still blocks enough for medium bright days. The Blue Spectra does cut glare, but if the sun is bright enough to glare bad enough for that to be necessary in a low light level lens, just switch out to the dark one you already have.

No, it shouldn't harm the bottle, since it is just a steel one. Make sure you don't fill it all the way, since it will expand, and that could possible damage, a.k.a. push out the shape the bottle.

In all the time I have been glued to this site, it has never had a compare feature. I feel that it would be super helpful though, so if they did have it, they should bring it back.

You are probably a 169cm ski person. That length will have decent enough float for you, and still be a manageable all-mountain deal. If you want the full powder ski, and want to be aggressive on your skis, you probably could get away with the 179 even, but the 169 really should be good enough. They are slightly longer than posted. As for Rossi vs. ObSETHed, I pick ObSETHed, since it rips hard in the big stuff, and is still easy enough to take anywhere. The S7 kills deeps, but lacks some all-mountain performance comparatively.

Just shy of 5 pounds per boot. Might be off a couple of grams, I weighed the 27.5, which is my foot size.

Just the Electric EG2

I would say that these would be better than a softer boot, although I like soft if I ever get caught in bumps. The stiffer boot will help you out driving the skis in the glades, bowls and groomers though, and basically are a step towards improvement. Might feel some punishment in them bumps though.

They do ship internationally, but some companies do not. Add to your cart, and it will tell you if it ships to your country or not.

You can add this to your cart, and when you go to the cart, it will have a option to get a shipping estimate for you. Just type in your postal/ZIP, and it will give you an idea of what it will cost. It will also let you know if it can ship to you or not.

It isn't super soft, and actually they are stiffer than comparative skis in this genre, like the Hellbents or the EP Pros.

I got to test these out last year for a week of the season, and I totally dug it for an everything ski, as long as you stay out of the park. The waist makes super, super quick edge transitions not as quick, but still snappy enough. The float in the pow, gorgeous, just gorgeous. Personally I don't ski bumps at all, so I can't tell you how they hold up in there, but probably they manage. But if all you ski is pow, or groomers, this ski will keep you going if the industry turned to dust.

It is a tad darker than this picture, but not super deep gold. If you want something that isn't black though, that blue helmet is pretty sweet looking.

+3 is a really decent mounting point, but personally, I love +2, which gives me lots of tip float, and just feels right for me. I have tried both, ski these super aggressive, and my vote is +2. If you have skied a +3 before and are used to that feeling, try it first.

My girlfriend uses one for that, she keeps a bunch of her gear in there. Definitely will work for flight travel. Personally I just strap my boots together and do it that way as a carry on.

They only have what you see in the drop down menu. So no Moonscape, but you can contact them and see if they are getting in new stock of this. The live chat or the phone number will get you in contact fastest.

Depending on how he skis, this is a really good choice for all-mountain stuff, but like the description says, pretty much expert all-mountain. Another ski, that I find way more versatile personally, is the K2 Kung Fujas, which is about the same waist dimensions, and has the ability to kill park, pow, groomers, and glades. If he is aggressive/expert skier, then for sure the Mantra would work out for him.

Yeah dude for sure. Black Diamond designed their winter packs to fit the bigger brother of this, the Transfer 7.

Totally. I can actually fit a Macbook 13" in one of these, with a 3 subject notebook and a bit of extra space.

It depends on the weight of primaloft that Armada used. And they didn't pack it in to make a super cold weather glove. I'm sure that if you are a warmer person, they would be enough for most of what you ski, but probably -20C is what I would rate them for. Any colder and I go for something with at least a liner glove added to it.

Last years Morgan had the pompom and brim, this years is as the picture shows. You can double check if you want on the Dakine website, here:

http://www.dakine.com/snowboard/beanies/girls-beanies/morgan/

The instructions on the website seem fairly straight forward, just grab the lens near the hinge, push towards the nose, and then pull outward away from where you face normally is. To put in, push into the nose, and then towards where the face normally is.

Based on his girth, I would say the Medium, since it goes up to 36 inches. That is more than enough for you dog, even if it gets really shaggy.

The Jade Green/Gray is the right colour, which is the only main picture.

Yeah, it is compatible with the Variant Brim. So if you want to spend more on them separate, this is what you need.

Nope, but you can pick up an extra pair here on bc.com.

No, probably not since you are planning on going for more than one season and are growing. You might have to get used to the length, but after a day or so you will be rocking them.

The following is taken off the K2 site, I take no real credit for it other than finding it for you.

MOD MONIC
The Monic is a solid zinc mass embedded in the secondary core so it works in conjunction with the MOD structure to focus mass dampening at a targeted location. Independent studies at Boeing Test Laboratories helped pinpoint a precise location where “focused” mass dampening would reduce harmonic vibration to further dampen and quiet the ski. The MOD Monic dampens at a precise location where the overall MOD structure dampens the entire length of the ski. The addition of MOD Monic enables the overall MOD structure to be lightened, reducing the weight while still optimizing the dampening characteristics of the ski. The men's Apache and women's T:Nine series feature two different MOD monic varations. The women's MOD monic and men's MOD monic consistently target mass dampening, but slightly differently. The Apache specific and women's specific tech sections provide further details.

You can bend out the brakes to fit your skis, or you can look into the Marker Duke/Baron. The Duke has touring capabilities, and nothing is lost from normal downhill performance. Cliffs,turns, whatever you want. Heavier though, but you can get a brake up to 130.

I wouldn't mount core center, but I think K2 recommends +3 from trad. That is a pretty solid all-mountain mount. Same with +2, if you are a little less concerned with switch, but still want to be more forward on the ski.

It depends on the fleece. There are some fleece out there that are warmer than this, but in general this is warmer than a standard fleece. It cuts the wind more, so it will keep you warmer from that.

Well as a powder ski I would say the bigger you can go the better it will be. If you think you can handle the 183, which you most likely could, then grab those. If you want maximum maneuverability and less float, get the 173. Personally I think you need the 183.

When you apply pressure to the value, like squeezing or biting, it should open up. If not, send it back to backcountry.com if you got it here, for a replacement, or call up CamelBak and see what the deal is. Alternatively you could make your own slit, but I would not recommend that option.

Just to add to Lukas, the Crowbars have a really nice outrigger for the strap, which makes it fit great on any helmet. The A-Frames work with most helmets, and are a more traditional strap. The Wisdoms are the worst goggles for helmets, because of the strange outrigger on them. They just don't work for the vast majority of lids. The Wisdoms have a bit more internal space, but not much more vision than the Crowbars, with the A-Frames being the smallest.

Not really at all. If you are going to try to use them for cold, or deep conditions, I hope you have warm hands. My hands are fairly warm, and I still don't like these for those kind of conditions. I would look at something with insulation or for everyday/colder use.

I'm sure that you can wear these to 20 degrees, since there is a light insulation, and I have worn them, but it depends on how warm of a person you are. I ski with very little insulation down to sometime -40, so cold doesn't bother me. If your hands get cold often, then I would say keep these in the like 25 and up category at the lowest. If not, sure they will work for 20 degrees.

I would say keep to what you are comfortable with, since if you get the longer option, you will most likely drop it down to what you are used to, and that extra will be wasted. If you feel like you need something a bit longer, than go for it, since packed down size is way less important that hike up comfort.

They would, but basically they are a smaller cousin of the Crowbar designed for small-medium faces. So larger faces would benefit from the larger frame of the Crowbar.

I am fairly sure the Stabilyx has the most support.

Yes it is. It keeps your rope from getting dirty from the ground.

Well I would say you could screw them on anywhere, but here is some advice. If you don't want them to rip right out, find a stud for them to screw to, because sheetrock is not going to handle the stress of your weight. Best idea is to get a piece of plywood, screw these to that, and bolt that to some studs on your wall.

I would say test them out maybe if you can, because I don't find Mantra's to be too stiff, but I like a fairly stiff ski. If you ski aggressively, maybe a stiffer ski would be a good choice, because the performance you can get out of something less forgiving really can help you progress. The Shogun might be a better fit as in you would be more used to them out of the box, but Volkl makes a decent product, and I think you would get used to them quickly and dig it.

This really isn't ideal for you if all you really ski is groomers and park, since the rocker chatters on the hardpack and it reduces effective edge for biting on the super hard days. And they weight quite a bit, which makes park a bit of a chore on them. If I were you I would look at something narrower and with either less rocker, or none at all. Maybe a K2 Kung Fujas or something like that.

As far as rockers go this is good for all conditions if you want. Holds the edge on groomers, and has minimal chatter, but there still is, like on all rockers. The effective carve edge is shorter, by a bit, which kind of changes the bite just a bit, but nothing super noticeable. The stability is really good, and the turnability is the same as any ski this size.

It comes with the audio kit, yes.

I am pretty sure you could get away with either, since there is some overlapping in sizes. The small Maze goes down to 51cm though, so that will fit him for sure.

They are more stable than many rockered skis on the hardpack, and able to tear it up if you want them to. As for bumps, I would say that it is possibly, if you wanted to try, but I wouldn't. Too much ski for bumps, plus I don't like bumps anyway.

The 179's would be a great all around ski option, for crushin' anything. But if you want pow, and can keep on top of the ski, as in aggressively, then boost up to the 189. Hope you get these though, because they are sick.

The weight is listed in the tech specs, at 430g. Not sure what size it is for though, but the medium will be that weight or close to it.

You can make any type of turn on it you want, as long as you are aggressive enough, and you ride the ski instead of the other way around. Personally, unless you ski a ton of snow on a daily basis, I would look elsewhere for a quiver of one ski. Maybe the JJ from Armada, since it has the same design philosophy, in a smaller more everyday package.

It's a pair.

That would be a question to hit up the live chat about, since those guys know about the stocking issues, or can find out. It's a great ski though man, hope you get it.

Well you would do it in the drop down menu right beside the picture, above the add to cart button, but currently they seem to be out of stock.

No they are supposed to lock tight and not move on you. See if you can tighten it yourself, or contact Black Diamond.

It's definitely a bigger fitted beanie, meant to be baggy. That said, I know some people with small heads that seem to dig this one. Kind of more a style choice than anything.

Both kits work for skis or snowboards, since they use the same wax and such. If you are wanting to start up a home shop type deal where you can do all your own maintenance, I recommend the Super Tune, because waxing irons work way better than normal irons.

Well the S6 is more suited for groomers size wise, but the S7 can really tear them up. I would say if you ski tons of pow, and then some groomed, go S7. If its more all-mountain fun and versatility you are looking for, the S6 might be better suited for you.

Yeah for sure you can mount some alpine bindings on these.

Yeah of course, that's what it is designed for.

This shovel moves so much snow, it's kind of ridiculous. We have built quite a few kickers with just a couple of them, and they are great for it. Plus, they can dig out your friend in a hurry, or dig out your snow pit to make sure that that kind of thing won't happen.

The Pandora is a lot of ski, but I think that you can handle that 172. It will feel different for sure in the tighter trees, but fall line and deep snow you will appreciate the stability that you can get from them. You will probably have to adjust a bit of your style, and ski more aggressively, but I think that these really are the next step for female skiers, who really want to progress. And that size will step up your game for sure.

They aren't the best for deep snow like that, since no, they aren't very tight around the cuff. Having snow pants with snow gaiters that can cover the boot will make that problem disappear though. Or look for a boot that has a cuff with adjustable fit.

There is a sizing chart right below the drop down menu, which tells you the lengths of Mountain Hardwear clothing. You will probably need a Long pant, but bc.com is apparently out of stock at the moment.

I think that it is something like 1 lb 5 oz/ 595 g. Might be off on that though.

Personally I find them very similar, in weight, warmth and wicking. The fit on the BC.com Tee is a bit better, at least for me. If you love the Ibex, then I say stick with the Ibex, but this is about the same type of deal.

For sure the R3 is lighter than the R4. The R3 is not quite as warm, but probably a bit more breathable, which is hard to compare since they are both breathable. Personally I feel that if you are debating between the 2, the R3 is about all you will ever need for a midlayer, and fall/casual outerlayer.

There is a sizing chart located right below the drop down menu. If that doesn't help much, check the Armada website.

About a size 7. Remember the liners do pack out a bit, but not enough for the 25.5. Maybe a 26.5 or 27 would work best. I have this boot, and love it, in the 27.5, with a size 8.5 foot.

You might actually want a ski that has a narrower waist dimensions. Something like the Armada JJ would be awesome, because it has similar characteristics to the Bent Chetlers, but is narrower. They handle great in the deeper snow, rip groomers, will be more manageable in bumps, and tighter terrain. For sure check out the Volkl's but the JJ would probably be better.

It doesn't actually block the air flow too bad for most helmets, but there are some that don't work. Most of the Smith line works great though.

It kind of depends on your glasses. I have Oakley frames, and they are a wide square frame, which only fits under goggles after some modification to the foam. It isn't hard, just a couple slits and it'll work. If your glasses are fairly small framed, then these should work. If not, try and find a designated OTG goggle.

That is about the same ball-park. The 10 is the stiffest that Full Tilt makes, so can be compared to downhill racers or big mountain boots.

It appears to be a black zipper for it, but best bet is to go on live chat and talk with an actual bc.com rep, who can potentially check their stock.

About the same as a lightweight Smartwool I would say.

I have tried the Methods, but liked the Supers better for my face. If you felt that the Super was too big, then for sure the Methods will work better. You also might be a border line face, where neither is good, but we can only hope that it works out for you.

Maybe cross-country gear. But if you look at the dimensions, the bag is only an 8 inch diameter. So if you have 2 skis that would fit in an 8 inch diameter then sure, 2 skis. If you want powder boards and a groomer ski, not going to work, since the pow planks are probably about a 150mm shovel which is 3/4 of your space already.

The closer to the core you get, the easier it is to turn them, so I would bet that you should handle them close to the core. That said, mounting at something like +6 would be about all this ski would ever need, and mean that the Schizo's wouldn't really be necessary. If you have the money and want them, then go for it, but otherwise, you will probably only ride them in one mounting position anyway.

They do ski short, but the 188 should be a good length for you.

That's a good deal man. Interested to see more about these.

Thailand.

At the very least get him the 148cm length of this ski. I would almost say look for an adult ski that comes in something like a 156, since it would give him the float he wants, stability for powder, speed, and landings, and he could do some growing before you would have to replace his skis again. You can easily find an adult park ski, which are about the same waist dimensions as these, for him.

I would say that you could easily get away with getting him the 177cm ski. That size would be stable enough, unless he is a heavier guy. But in general you only really need long skis on groomers for stability, so if he loves the high speeds, I would look into something maybe a bit longer.

I think you will feel a lot more float and control in the deep stuff than the JJ's, which are nice in it, but sometimes feel a little lacking. The 'Bents will have a hard time feeling lacking in the deep. The 189's should work for you if you kill it on the 185 JJ. Remember they are actually longer than 189, about 193-194, since K2 posts effective edge, and the rocker makes it shorter.

They are for small to medium sized faces, so it might not work out. It is always hard to know for sure without testing them. Try a smaller full sized adult goggle on him, and if that is too big, then try a larder youth model.

A number 8 flex could probably be compared to something quite a bit stiffer than the Nordica 100 flex. 100 is about a 5-6 in the Full Tilt scale.

It has 2 front pockets like the 85 does, but which one are you thinking of? There is the bottom sleeping bag zippered pocket, and the pocket that lets you access the interior of the pack.

The 176 is actually 110 underfoot, so not the same size as the S7. If I am not mistaken Rossi made it for women, and didn't just shrink it and pink it.

If you consider yourself a good skier, and can ski fairly powerfully, then for sure as a powder ski I would say the 176. Longer is always nice for deeper snow. If you aren't an aggressive skier, than the 166 might feel more comfortable to you.

Measure your head around, as in the circumference. If it is 23.5 inches, which is what a 7.5 sized hat actually is, then you will be able to get the Large sized helmet. If it is bigger, then you will have to keep looking around for an XL.

Depends on personal preference. I wouldn't want something this big on my back if I'm just inbounds all day, mostly since I could never justify a pack this big for using inbounds. I like smaller (BD Bandit) size packs. If you are planning on lapping sidecountry and using the groomers to get back to the lifts, then sure, it should be fine. You will most likely have to remove it from your back though, since most places won't allow a pack this size.

Well I would say grab the 178cm. The float and stability will definitely be a plus, and you should still be able to drive them around. The AT will still be good for you on the 178 too. The little extra weight shouldn't change the touring capabilities too much either.

Not on the back of a motorcycle, but a friend of mine has one, and he brought it with us on a trip to Jasper a little while back. It was in the box of the truck, pouring rain going about 110 km/h and was completely dry to the touch on the outside as soon as we were out of the storm, and was bone dry inside when we arrived.

If it is a down bag or a pretty light weight synthetic I would say the 15L, or if it is a heavier synthetic they recommend the 25L.

They recommend the 15L for a down bag.

The H.I. Yellow is an awesome lens from Oakley, probably one of may favourite. It definitely sucks for super bright conditions, but it works for everything from medium, to flat, to overcast, to night skiing, and it does all that really well. The H.I. Persimmon is also pretty good, but a little worse for overcast and night.

I have the Talon 33, not the 44, but it is great for a day of cragging, holds rack and other gear super well, one of the more comfortable packs for sure for climbing. I haven't tried a load on the 44, since I don't have it, and I haven't used it multipitch since I don't have access to much where I am but if you need it for a day at the rock, then its definitely comfortable.

They are pretty good skis as I am hearing from some friends that got some early snow. They love them in the deep. If I was you I would check out the 160cm or the 167cm. If you ski aggressive and go for it, then you shouldn't have problems with the longer ski.

They aren't too wide, should be fine with them. They won't drag while up I'm pretty sure, so, yeah, fine.

No, just a holder for one if you have your own.

That does sound a bit crazy, but to each his own. SInce I don't know what the middle piece diameter is for the Expeditions, you will have to do your own measurements for it, but the top portion of the Whippet is 16mm, or 0.63 inches. The lower is 14mm/0.55inches, so that's what the Expedition would have to be for it to work. Hope that helped you man.

I find that they hold up to abuse super well, except the topsheet, which chips like all sandwich construction skis do. They pound through some pretty gnarly conditions, and I use them as my all-mountain/big mountain do almost everything ski. The Shogun is good for powder mostly, and I don't personally like the feel of them when I push them too hard. That might just be me, but I would say that in every category, the ObSETHed wins, with exception to the weight, cause they are a bit on the heavy side.

I know people that have done this with Duke bindings, which seems to work pretty good for them for short sidecountry trips. You don't need custom skins per se, just the biggest ones you can get, and that still isn't wall to wall, which isn't always 100% necessary. The shovel does pose a bit of a problem for the skins, but it might work, and if not, you can pretty easily rig something for that. The reverse camber can make touring difficult, but not un-doable. You would need the 130mm brakes for the brakes to be functional, but most people on 'Toons I know don't have functional brakes.

Grey is actually a fairly neutral (aka. useless in many conditions) lens, basically just to cut glare. The VR28 has a 28% light transmittance, and is for flat to medium light. YOu can go to the Oakley site, and click on the Splice, there should be a tab right below it that says lens tints, and you can select the tint you want to see how it looks looking through it.

The recommended point is 2cm forward of the traditional mounting point, or about 4.5cm back from the core center. They run pretty solid at this point, which is my favourite mount for almost any ski except full park. And they do run a little bit longer, not quite 4-5cm, but 2-3 for sure. This is from the slight early rise, but the effective edge and therefore the way they ski handles is as stated. At 181, if you want something a little longer (185 like you said), I would recommend going up to the 188 not down. You won't regret this ski.

The 167 should be alright for you, and even the 174 if you are really pushing hard. I always like a longer ski, just for the stability, and the extra float. But for sure the 167 is manageable for you.

Depending on what lenses you plan on taking with you, I would say that you for sure could use this pack. The tripod should fit fine on the outside, and body, first aid, couple snacks and couple lenses should fit. I haven't tried a big load out of camera gear in this particular pack, but it does hold quite a bit of gear. A more all-seasons orientated pack might work out better for you though, for some more external storage to keep the body and lenses in the main pouch and water bottle or snack on the outside, easily accessible.

I wouldn't trust it for too much, but if your boots are relatively light or you aren't going too far, it should be alright. If you plan on throwing the bag around with the boots hanging from it, it might not hold.

It sometimes gets a little floppy, but nothing super bad. You might want to size down to something else though if that's all it will ever hold.

Rubber can still be rigid.

Not 100% sure, they seem to be about the same to my hands though. Check the sizing chart for these, and that should give you a good idea.

Best way to tell you is to show you, so here is the Dakine site. Click the pictures until you see the one with the shovel.

http://www.dakine.com/snowboard/packs/snow/pro-ii/

The very top (ridgeline) which is the longest point is 10'.

It states in the spec list that it is 44 square feet. I have a similar one, and I think it should work for your sail, depending on your sail dimensions. Does make a great shelter though.

You can wear it just like in Doug picture below. I would highly, HIGHLY suggest never wearing it inside your clothes, as common sense would tell you that the CO2 which you are trying to get away from your face, would become trapped in your jacket, which in most cases vents upwards due to the neck being one of the only exit points, especially with a powder skirt done up. So the best idea is outside your jacket, where it can disperse away from you into the snow.

Basically, almost any goggle will work with this helmet, including the Wisdoms. That said, they are definitely one of the worst option, for any helmet. The hooks on the sides of the goggles make fitting very difficult. Some other goggles I would suggest are the Smith I/O (personal favourite), Phenom, or Prodigy, Oakley Crowbar or A-Frame (if you want to keep it Oakley), or any Electric, Von Zipper, Dragon. These are just a few, but all have a design that will work for this helmet.

Basically, almost any goggle will work with this helmet, including the Wisdoms. That said, they are definitely one of the worst option, for any helmet. The hooks on the sides of the goggles make fitting very difficult. Some other goggles I would suggest are the Smith I/O (personal favourite), Phenom, or Prodigy, Oakley Crowbar or A-Frame (if you want to keep it Oakley), or any Electric, Von Zipper, Dragon. These are just a few, but all have a design that will work for this helmet.

I am pretty sure that the only colour they are selling is the orange one, right now at least.

Best bet is a lighter. Hold it over the lighter for just a short amount of time, and then roll the fibers with your fingers. The cord is nylon, so it will melt, so be careful of how long you heat it, and how soon you touch it.

I think it would be removable, but only permanently. There is only one, on the one side though, why not mount on the other side of the goggles, just as a suggestion. Removing the emblem might start a fray in the strap, which might blow the whole thing eventually.

They won't fit perfectly, out of the box, but if you take them to a shop, they can bend them out slightly for you, so that they will fit, and still work. I have the ObSethed (105 waist) and I had the PX 15 with the 100mm brakes mounted up, very close to stock.

The 169 probably, you aren't exactly tall enough for the 179, nor weight enough to drive it, in my opinion. The K2 rockered skis run longer than posted, since they post the effective edge, which is shortened with the rocker, so the 169 will actually be around a 172-174, which is a good length for someone your size.

The 179 should be good for you if you aren't a hard charger. It's at the length that it has the right float, but still looks long enough for your height.

Of course. The brakes should not flop around too much, at least not enough to cause a problem.

Depends on your style man. I would get the Pollard, cause I like the colouring on it, and I wear all black.

Definitely works for round and most factory bars. Totally understandable that you want to check first. Enjoy.

They handle pretty well for park and all mountain riding, but if you are throwing hard, or you are a bigger build, you might want to look for something a little higher up in the DIN range. Otherwise, definitely agree with Alex.

You could try, but I'm gonna say since I am pretty sure it is designed for only 2, and all I can fit is 2, that you probably won't fit 3 in there.

Very minimal in the padding department. Personally I would wrap my jacket and pants around the bindings, or a blanket.

I love these skis for an all-mountain rig, they seem fine for me in the tighter trees, and rip groomers still. Deep snow and side country is awesome, but I can't comment on the chutes, not a bunch around where I live.

They carry it, just are currently out of stock. You can get on the live chat to check up on restocking.

I think it will be alright for someone your size. You are tall, so they won't look quite long enough, but since you are pretty skinny, they are about the right size for you.

No, since the pack is designed for A-Frame ski carry, it doesn't have side bottle pockets.

Not suicide, but if you aren't gonna drive that length, that length will drive you around. It could get messy. For all mountain/park, the 178 would be a safe bet. But if you want that length, and think you can drive it, then go for it. Won't kill ya.

The El Rey is pretty good for the all mountain, and would be a good choice for you for sure. Other options could be the K2 Extreme, Armada AR6, Line Chronic, etc, etc. There are tons of good skis out there for this category, and many people will give you many different "best ski" options. Mine personally is the Extreme, but that's just me. For the price point, the El Rey is a great option too.

It doesn't really seem to cause me any discomfort yet, but I have not had one for long. I have pretty think hair, which might effect this, and usually I wear a hat anyway.

These fit some people with small faces, but are meant for medium to large faces. I would say try them, cause they do fit a lot of shapes, and return them if they don't work. Best bet is to go to a shop if you can and try on as many pairs as you can.

It depends on how hard it is raining, and how long. If you plan on doing a trip, and expect a lot of precipitation, then grab a rain cover. Other than the bad rain, it is pretty water resistant.

The biggest difference is the styling. The outer fabric is the same, and the Troll seems to be rated at Guaranteed waterproof/breathable vs the 20K/25K of the Torre. The Troll has more pocket options, which is nice. This is sized for a fleece to be under it, so basically I would pick the Troll over the Torre for snowboarding. But the Torre isn't really far behind, so if you want to save the $25, have at it.

Pretty solid in the wind resistance department. Not quite up to a dedicated wind shell, but I would trust it up to the more serious storms.

Pretty solid in the wind resistance department. Not quite up to a dedicated wind shell, but I would trust it up to the more serious storms.

It is better than some, but not 100% wind proof. I would say that in a storm, get a wind shell over top, but short of that you should be fine.

I find it pretty comfortable when I am on a bike. It is designed for adventure racing and stuff, so it moves with you quite well. Another good pack that stays with your body is the Osprey Talon 33, if you are interested.

Personally I think that the HI Yellow is the best for low light, and night skiing. I used it for the better part of last year, and it holds up on a lot of conditions.

They are mirrored, but only a bit. Not like the crazy metallic ones you see where you can't see someone's eyes. And it only comes with the lens you order, no extras.

The 171 might feel a bit long at first, but you should be able to rock them if you ski hard. They do float decent, but definitely not as good as some, seeing as it is only an 85mm waist. The longer length of the 171 will help.

They are currently out of stock on any other colours it seems, so the best bet is to wait, or to send them an email/jump on live chat and ask how the restock is.

The bag can fit a wide range in the M/L, just measure your back length, since some people have longer torsos than others or vice versa.

It will be alright for either. The waist leaves little for float, but since most people on these are light and/or kids, that doesn't really make a difference. For ice though, the waist is almost to the stage were super quick edge transfers are gone, making ice more of a challenge.

Yeah, they would be fine for them. In the 158cm might be good, since they will still grow.

I got the 179s, which works well as an all-mountain ski, but if I could do it again, I would get the same ski in the 189s. They are actually longer than the size, but ski the length posted, so yeah, its a no brainer.

Instead of laces, with which you would tighten and tie, which sometimes hurts your fingers after old water days, there is a cable system running through where the laces should be. The knob on the top of the shoe is twisted until your feet are secured, and it don't have to pull them tight.

I am going to say probably not. You could use it for that, but it isn't designed for it. There is no board or ski carry, no waist belt to keep the pack from moving, and the fabric isn't really the best at water resistance.

I am going to say probably not. You could use it for that, but it isn't designed for it. There is no board or ski carry, no waist belt to keep the pack from moving, and the fabric isn't really the best at water resistance.

Gonna say they are unisex.

You are going to need at least the 177cm ski, if not the 185cm. For hardpack, you want as much edge as you can, and you can have a longer ski at your size. For crud, you will need the stability to smash through and not get bucked, and for powder, you will really appreciate the float of the longer ski so you don't get tired out earlier in the day.

Medium adjusts up to 5'11", so that should have you covered.

If you never set your DIN over 12, then they are some of the best out there. IF you run at about 12, it is recommended that you go for the Jesters, since you shouldn't have your DIN set at the full extent of the binding.

Definitely the 167. You should be able to drive them hard all over the mountain.

The I/O, while I find it is cooler, seems about the same fit for me as the Crowbar, not the biggest goggle out there. But the EG2 is HUGE. And has some of the best peripherals around.

Mine came with 2. The Sensor Mirror, and the Ignitor Mirror. Near perfect combo for any conditions you should run into.

Basically any bladder can work, so throw your favourite system on.

There is snowboard carry, with the 2 horizontal straps for vertical carry. With these, I see no reason why you can't throw snowshoes on.

Mine says BPA Free under the recycle 7 symbol on the bottom of the bottle.

If you have been using the 170, don't downsize, it could mess with your stability, and how you ski even.

Depends on how you like that pack to sit on you. I prefer a lower sitting pack, so I would get the large, but if you like the traditional higher up fit, you could definitely get the medium.

Go up to the 30 maybe, but not a full size. They should fit kinda snug, since the liner will pack out. All the sole lengths are posted below too, so that might help you out.

Almost 100% sure they are the same lens.

I always like the longest length I can manage, but I am also bigger then you. The ski rides a little short due to the twin tips, but the big question is what you are used to. If you ski a 179 already, and are really confident but overpower them sometimes, go up. If not, the 179 will definitely be alright for you.

Way, way too big. This jacket runs large, for being able to throw in layers, so all you need is a large man.

I would say the regular black. Gloss is a little flashy for some people, and that probably includes traditionalists.

I don't think you would need something quite like this, since you are out of the wind and are off the ground, but you will be hard pressed to find a bag suited for colder conditions. A -30F bag is about as warm as they come. You might want to consider a down bag, since they are warmer, and take up less space, which might be a plus on a longer trip. You won't be getting it too wet in the car, so down seems like a better option.